Latching the saddlebags? Issue?

[SVonhof]

Yesterday I went to put the saddlebags on (I installed them only once before since I had the bike). The left one, when in place, the latch didn't line up at all with the hook. I figured when I had the bike tip over on the driveway (rolled forward because of the angle of the driveway), since I didn't have the bags on, it hit the bracket that the passenger peg and the saddlebag "knob" is on and may have bent it. I pulled the bracket off and it looks fine, but the metal tab that is welded to the subframe looks like it might have bent.
I then left the bracket off and tried to put the saddlebag on and with just the hooks on the saddlebag attached, it still wasn't aligning right, but I was able to get it to latch. I then put the bracket back on and spaced it out partway with a washer to try to take some of the strain off the plastic tabs and such. Is this normal? It also didn't look like the saddlebag where it catches on the "knob" is as engaged as the other side.
Here are some pics.
Without forcing it to line up, this is what it looks like:


This is as far as the tabs engage with the knob:

Showing how close the bag is to the fairing (it doesn't touch, but is close):

Here is where the tab is welded to the subframe and it looks like the paint cracked as the weld started to bend:


This is with the spacer behind the bracket, it's as good as I could get it engaged:


Does that look right? I literally had only installed the bags one other time since I got the bike and that was before the drop and I don't remember that latch being that hard to engage.

[jonathan]

No that doesn't look right at all. The top latch is obviously not engaging properly and if you look at the pictures in this other thread you will see that the bottom mount is also not correct. Something is badly bent or misaligned.

http://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1152.0

[SVonhof]

Crap.


As I figured.

I need to take some more time and see if I can figure out if the bracket or the tab is truly bent or if something else is going on.  The welded on tab does seem to be bent (has a slight curve to it), but the only way to fix it would be to attempt to bend it back (yeah, right) or have it cut off and re-welded. Or replace the rear sub-frame....

Crap.

[Shoe]

It looks like you have an aftermarket shock air canister mounted in a space that may be interferring with proper mounting of the bags.

[JetJock]

The little white lines around the weld on the brackets, unless it's just something the digital camera is adding, seem to indicate that the brackets welds have been partially broken.

[SVonhof]

JetJock, I don't know that the welds are partially broken, but I can't be sure. I would think they are bent as if the weld is done right, the weld will be stronger than the original material.

Shoe, I assumed that is a stock air canister for the shock, I don't believe the guy I bought it from did anything to the rear shock. That air canister doesn't cause any problems with the bag mounting either. Doesn't touch a thing.

[JetJock]

JetJock, I don't know that the welds are partially broken, but I can't be sure. I would think they are bent as if the weld is done right, the weld will be stronger than the original material.

The white lines might indicate that the weld has cracked. When you see lines like this where the paint has what appear to be fracture lines, well that's what they probably are. As for the weld being stronger than the original material, even if it has been bent, well that's an original theory. I'd consider that part being much closer to failure, especially if it gets stressed again.

[SVonhof]

The white lines might indicate that the weld has cracked. When you see lines like this where the paint has what appear to be fracture lines, well that's what they probably are. As for the weld being stronger than the original material, even if it has been bent, well that's an original theory. I'd consider that part being much closer to failure, especially if it gets stressed again.

No doubt.

[Rawman]

This is exactly what mine looked like after a 15-20 mph laydown on the left side.  They had to replace the whole bracket.  I am not sure if they re-welded the tab, but my bag is rock solid again.

[SVonhof]

O.K., so, next question. Would you guys feel safe riding with it that way, if you were able to get the latch to catch, but basically had to force it to be able to catch?

Rawman, can you see if you can find out what the repair entailed? Dealer job I assume?

[stevewfl]

JetJock, I don't know that the welds are partially broken, but I can't be sure. I would think they are bent as if the weld is done right, the weld will be stronger than the original material.

Shoe, I assumed that is a stock air canister for the shock, I don't believe the guy I bought it from did anything to the rear shock. That air canister doesn't cause any problems with the bag mounting either. Doesn't touch a thing.

You sure trust Kawi!

[SVonhof]

O.K., I think I have a temporary solution that will get me through this weekend's ride with my wife. Smaller screws (8mm), some washers and nuts. I can shim the bracket to get it in the right position, I think. Off to Orchard Supply Hardware, since they have the best selection of screws and bolts and such in the area.

I will report back.

[C1xRider]

Those paint cracks at the top of the weld are a very good indicator that the bracket was stressed pretty severely.

Given how loose my bags are, and that I've already seen how the rear frame on my bike is slightly twisted (poor manufacturing tolerances), I wonder if the tolerance of positioning that bracket when they manufactured the bike explains why several folks have looser bag mounts than others.

LT1 had his bag(s) come off from a good jolt while riding onto a bridge, and there was a YouTube video of a guy jerking his off of his bike while parked.

If you are brave, you could try tapping the back side of that bracket with a plastic hammer (a dead blow would be better).  If the bracket moves easily, that should tell you how uncomfortable to be with leaving the bags on until it's fixed.  If it takes a lot to move it just enough to tighten up the latch, you may be OK.  Either way, it's your bike, and your responsibility.

[Rawman]

Rawman, can you see if you can find out what the repair entailed? Dealer job I assume?

Yes, it was an insurance claim for the dealer repair.  I just know that the Repair Manager at the dealer did not really want to take the whole rear apart after I noticed the bag did not fit right.  I got the feeling this was NOT an easy fix.

[SVonhof]

Interesting comments guys.  I did try to "beat" the bracket back into shape, but that didn't happen. I even got brave and got my pry-bar out and put it between the tubing and the tab and bend the tab back that way and it wouldn't budge, so it's pretty secure. I will get this fixed correctly, but for the quick fix for the weekend (worst thing that would happen is I loose the left bag during the ride and I have to claim the whole thing on insurance anyway I guess) I was able to get 8mm x 45 socket head cap screws, 8mm washers and a 10mm washer under the head into the front part of the bracket. On the back side of the bracket, I placed a washer between that and the welded tab and also shoved a thinner washer in the front and a thicker washer in the rear location, just on the bottom part of the bracket (hopefully the pictures will explain better) with lock washers and nuts on the back of the tab.




Not ideal, but it stopped the bracket from twisting to follow the shape of the tab since it "curled" when the drop happened. This took almost all the pressure off the latch on the saddle bag.

[C1xRider]

Should work great for your trip, and now you can relax and enjoy the ride without staring at the bag in the mirror all the way.

Enjoy the ride!

[rcannon409]

Thank you for posting this info. I think you guys saved my left bag.  The right fits tight, but the left, not so much.  I ordered some clips and may go with pins as well.

[SVonhof]

Well, rode about 200 miles yesterday with my wife on the back and we didn't loose anything, so the temporary fix worked.  I will be going to the local dealer on Tuesday to get their opinion on how long it would take to replace the sub-frame and get a price on them to do the work and see if it's something I want to tackle.

[C1xRider]

Just out of curiosity, I looked up the price for the rear section of the frame, and WOW, it's not cheap!  Didn't really have an expectation of cost, but still experienced some sticker shock - $586.20 for the tail section (http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/469807) from one of the lowest priced sites on the web.  I also noticed the 2010 is a different part number.

It would probably be several hours of labor to swap it out.  There's nothing major involved like pulling the motor or rear swing arm or suspension parts, just plastic, wiring, electrical components, etc.

I looked at this job on mine awhile back because it is tweaked / twisted from the factory.  One side is higher than the other by a noticeable amount.  When I installed Phil's Rack, I had to shim it with washers to get it to work.  Without them, the rack was warping so badly, my case would not mount properly.

It would be interesting to hear what the dealer quotes you to do this job.  For the cost, it may be less to have yours reworked by a competent welder.

Keep us posted.

[SVonhof]

Will do C1xRider.