Kawasaki Concours Forum
Mish mash => Open Forum => Topic started by: jamiemac on July 30, 2015, 10:32:22 PM
-
Thought some folks on here might find my little project kinda interesting.
I turned 50 this year, & with the numbers creepin up on me, I wanted to do something I've done for other folks, but never for yours truly. Build a custom vehicle for myself. A little background, I worked as a mechanic for about 20 years after high school, except for a 3 year stint as an MP at Ft Bragg, NC. My health took a huge crap in 2001, & now I'm pretty much a dude that tries to keep busy, but I'm pretty slow compared to my younger days.
I became a Jeep enthusiast, because it gets me in the Utah back country, where I'm no longer able to hike. As a way to keep life interesting, a good bud and myself, head out there twice a year, and escape.
My first Jeep purchase was an 01 Cherokee, and I did pretty good on that deal. They were, and still are cheap. The Cherokee weighs 3000 pounds. Very lightweight compared to many more modern SUVs. I've had quite a few Jeeps since, and fixed up a few to resell, & have become kind of the local expert on XJ and ZJ Jeeps. I still have the 01, because it's a very nice looking, and clean example, and I do some pretty hairy stuff in it, with the intentions of getting someplace interesting. I don't really wheel for the sake of wheeling, although I know it's a lot of fun. Just trying to preserve the vehicle. Some folks actually go wheeling & intentionally try to break their rig. That's not me at all. LOL
Well, My Cherokee XJ started to lose power, & I have the suspicion the previous owner kept it clean, but was a slacker on oil changes. A compression test revealed all the cylinders had even compression, but much lower than factory specs. A few squirts of oil in each cylinder brought the readings way up. I was also pretty sure a cracked head would make an appearance upon disassembly, so I pulled the engine and listed it on craigslist for parts. Got 300 out of it within 24 hours.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20140307_140341_020_zpsec61ff3e.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20140307_140341_020_zpsec61ff3e.jpg.html)
Between the compression test, and pulling the stock 4.0, I found & purchased a low mileage Corvette LS1 aluminum block, fuel injected V8, and a 4L60e automatic transmission.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20140201_150315_zps0f016099.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20140201_150315_zps0f016099.jpg.html)
The Jeep journey begins.
-
It was march 2014. I was ready to get started on a huge project, & even though I'm old & slow, I can work for a few hours a day, with a crapload of breaks & sitting on a trusty milk crate. Drinking lots of water is a big help. I work outside under a big ol carport that's built kinda like a picnic shelter at a state park.
First step was ordering some parts. Now, I'm not wealthy, and I sold a lot of stuff, & even borrowed a little money to make this happen, but I had to be pretty conservative when shopping for parts. Some conversion stuff is just flat out expensive, but I can weld, and fabricate. Don't be fooled though. Wrenching is definitely a perishable skill. I was constantly amazed at the screw ups I would perpetrate that wouldn't have happened when I was doing this crap for money.
Advance Adapters, and Novak Jeep Adapters was a huge time saver, because they make many XJ/LS1 specific adaters, and parts. Very good quality, too.
I had to rebuild the 4L60E tranny with a shortened output shaft from Advance Adapters, who also made the adapter for the NV231J transfer case to bolt it on the back of the GM transmission. While I had the tranny apart, I rebuilt it with all new clutches, and threw in an RV shift kit.
-
After rebuilding the tranny & attaching the transfer case, I set that mess aside, and started on the fun stuff. Wiring. Yeah. Now some folks despise wiring, but I actually enjoy mentally intensive labor like that, because I'm..well, an idiot.
The GM PCM was sent to be reflashed for a 91 octane timing advance, and to switch off unnecessary bullsh... like down stream O2 sensors, and alarm systems & whatnot. Wiring up the GM PCM required taking the ChryCorp PCM, carefully removing it, and setting it on fire...not really. got $60 bucks outta that thing on fleabay. The Jeep PCM controlled the gauge cluster, so that was going to be an issue. The Corvette PCM, really only needed to run the engine, so I had to build relay banks for A/C request, and to turn on the gauge cluster with the ignition. this took forever. It was now about July 2014.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20140411_162058_916_zps3ba563da.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20140411_162058_916_zps3ba563da.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20140322_183646_zps7d56b5b4.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20140322_183646_zps7d56b5b4.jpg.html)
My wiring underwent numerous changes after these pics, because I was less than happy with the results. I'd still classify the almost finished job as adequate, but not pretty. My excuse is, I'm old, blind, my butt hurts, I want my mommy, and it's a Jeep, not a show car.
-
It was about July of 2014, I'd gone as far as possible on the wiring, without having the engine in place, so I bolted the tranny to it, installed the Novak engine mounts, and installed, pulled, installed, pulled, & installed the assembly in the Cherokee. Progress. There was a lot of trial fitting, header welding, thinking, header welding, redesigning of the headers, wiring, cussing, and buying headers. Man, those freakin headers were a pain. I've made plenty of headers in the past, but I think I've lost my header fabbing mojo with this project.
-
After finally getting the wiring most of the way finished, buying some aftermarket headers, it was time to get the cooling system ironed out. The LS1 5.7 liter V8 is a much more modern engine than the Jeep 4.0 I 6. It's much more efficient in the area of cooling, but still needs a serious radiator. The all aluminum unit I got for it is huge, It would cool the space shuttle. Finding some radiator hoses was a huge pain,. I went to parts stores, and searched thru the inventory for days, but finally got the Radiator installed, and buttoned up, with all new hose, and fans. Had to use a Ford Taurus 2 speed fan, and modified the shroud to fit. Pop rivets, and aluminum sheet filled the bill for that.
-
It was about this point I had some health issues, and knocked off for a while, but got back on it about October of last year or so.
My cooling system was installed, engine and tranny in, and I needed to work on the gauge cluster, which had to be fabricated, The Jeep cluster was run by the Jeep PCM, and wasn't compatible with any aftermarket senders, or the GM PCM. I ordered all new Autometer performance gauges, stripped the Jeep cluster from the dash, & cut a piece1/16 inch aluminum sheet metal to fit where the OE cluster was. I then had a local machinist cut the holes for My new gauges, & I wired them up. It wasn't quite that simple, but not reall difficult. Just time consuming. Couple of weeks spent on that.
-
Fun to watch. Fun to read. I've always liked Cherokees. Can't wait for first loud pedal report. :finger_fing11:
-
Fun to watch. Fun to read. I've always liked Cherokees. Can't wait for first loud pedal report. :finger_fing11:
Doing a little work on it today, & a customer coming to the house for A/C work, but I'll post more tonight.
-
:thumbs: :popcorn:
-
I'm interested in the outcome, this is good stuff jamiemac. :thumbs:
-
After working on the gauge cluster, and various odds and ends, I saw winter approaching, and I battened down the hatches, and put away the welders, & tools till spring. I got started again in early march. I'm at the mercy of the weather, but it gave me all winter to research, plan, and make drawings....haha! I didn't do any of that crap! I'm disorganized as a crazy person. I tend to keep plans, and wiring diagrams in my head. My tools are flung everywhere. My shop looks like an apocalyptic nightmare of epic proportions.
I did get started in March though. It was time to build the exhaust system. I did have a plan for the exhaust. I wanted an X-pipe about where the transmission crossmember was at. I wanted 2 1/2 inch mandrel bent tubing. I have some exhaust expertise. I did exhaust fabrication for quite a few years. The mantra at that time was, "get it done, and get it out." I don't think exhaust systems are pretty. I don't like big chrome pipes sticking out the back end, like some version of redneck heaven. I would just as soon not know the exhaust system is even there.
I found the largest stainless muffler I could fit under the Jeep. It's made by Magnaflow. They have quality welded seam muffles. This particular muffler is their X series, dual in, dual out, and an X inside the chamber. About 24 inches long, and it must weigh 30 pounds. I still have the black pinky nail to prove it. I also got one of Magnaflow's very nice, stamped, and welded, stainless X-Pipes. Very compact piece, with 2 1/2 ID inlets and outlets. There's also a plan for stainless flex joints as far forward as will fit in the system, to allow for engine movement.
I used band style clamps at many of the joints, to allow for easy takedown of the exhaust, because I anticipate having to make some drivetrain changes, I. E. grenading the CryCorp differential at some point.
The front pipes were an interesting mix of stainless, and mild steel, because I couldn't find good quality header flanges in the proper shape, made from stainless. I needed at least 3/8 of and inch, because 1/4 inch flanges tend to bend under stress.
Here are some pics of the exhaust during fabrication, and after completion.
I welded an O2 sensor bung to each front pipe. I used mandrel bent tubing from various manufacturers. Aluminized tubing in 16 gauge is pretty good quality form all of the well known speed shops.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150616_171759_zpsyekj8fli.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150616_171759_zpsyekj8fli.jpg.html)
A little anti seize on the O2 threads.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150616_140735_zps8b2w6meq.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150616_140735_zps8b2w6meq.jpg.html)
The stainless flex joint added to the frt pipes. If You have headers, these things will keep them from cracking after they get some age on them.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150616_190436_zpsuqn4efco.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150616_190436_zpsuqn4efco.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150614_154129_zpsndljs3yf.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150614_154129_zpsndljs3yf.jpg.html)
The exhaust back to the muffler. Excuse the terrible pics. I was usually pretty tired by the time I took pics at the end of each day.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150621_175508_zps7gto93zi.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150621_175508_zps7gto93zi.jpg.html)
-
A shot of the front left, crossover pipe. Not much room under a Cherokee. Both exhaust pipes have to run down the passenger side. That's why I'm using a dual in, dual out muffler.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0104_zpsxc1ax6rz.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0104_zpsxc1ax6rz.jpg.html)
Flange at the left front header.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150610_191925_zpsbmond8gb.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150610_191925_zpsbmond8gb.jpg.html)
I've been welding about 30 years, but I taught myself to TIG for the project. My eyesight is resulting in adequate welds, but I prefer to MIG, because I can weld by sound with the MIG.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150614_153821_zpsae4whrce.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150614_153821_zpsae4whrce.jpg.html)
The tailpipes are tucked up where they can't be seen, and won't get torn off on the trails in the backcountry.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0112_zpspinthldn.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0112_zpspinthldn.jpg.html)
The X-Pipe undergoing fabrication.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150620_184306_zpsh9dzk4qn.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150620_184306_zpsh9dzk4qn.jpg.html)
A hunk of wood is a nice spacer, to locate everything till weld time.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0106_zpsov2jwcuu.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0106_zpsov2jwcuu.jpg.html)
-
By around my 50th, in April, by which I was hoping to be finished (happy birthday to me) LOL, I started getting a little more excited about the first fire-up of the LS1 engine. These engines are rated at 355 HP stock, although a lot of the Corvettes they dynoed are pulling about 320 HP at the wheels, which leads me to believe they have considerably more than 355 HP. My PCM is custom tuned for a 8* timing advance at 2000 RPM, and a tad richer fuel curve. My homemade intake system is pretty efficient, with no restrictions under 3 1/2 inches. The exhaust system is fairly well designed, and as close to equal length as can be in a Cherokee. The Sanderson headers have much better flow characteristics than the stock Corvette manifolds. I'm hopeful for over 400 HP, being as most there is a consensus this engine is about 380 stock.
I wrapped up the final wiring. Ran the starter wires, fuel pump wires, and went to the Shell station to get some gas. I had a new Aeromotive 340LPH fuel pump, and didn't want to accidentally energize it dry, so I left it unplugged until I had fuel in the tank. The fuel system I built for this thing is epic. I spent a lot of time making it robust, and reliable. I'll go into the build of that a little later.
The first fire up of a project like this is always great. The sound of this video is distorted I think because my fancy waterproof phone has a crappy microphone. This engine sounds sweet.
https://youtu.be/RiIfG2Cvym4 (http://youtu.be/RiIfG2Cvym4)
-
:banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana
-
Backing up a little bit, and laying out the fuel system I built for the Cherokee, AKA Jeepzilla. I knew I needed a robust fuel system, although the stock MOPAR fuel pump has enough output to run an LS1. I wanted something that would be able to deal with any upgrades I might do the the engine in the future. I disassembled the Jeep's fuel pump module and used a fuel pressure regulator eliminator, machined out of aluminum by Novak. This does away with the in tank regulator, so You can run a GM style return line back from the FPR. I then used a stock Corvette fuel filter, which has the regulator built in. They are cheap, and they work. The return line goes from the filter, back to the tank, then the feed line goes the rest of the way up to the fuel rail. Had to use AN fittings by Russell, and Earls, to adapt to the springlock style GM fittings. It worked great. These Russell fitting are the shiznit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644123 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644123)
I used Earls super stock hose, which is a push lock style hose, and doesn't require any clamps. It's compatible with today's crappy gas, unlike traditional braided steel hose, which seeps fumes, and will make Your garage stink. The AN-6 hose ends feed plenty of fuel to the injectors, and can carry enough for any mods made in the future.
Here's some pix.
First thing I did was drop the fuel tank. You can see there was still plenty of Utah crud on the fuel module. Had to clean that off, take out the assembly, and wash the tank inside and out with Dawn dishwashing liquid. I got that thing super clean.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150315_163053_zpsdl7wz9f8.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150315_163053_zpsdl7wz9f8.jpg.html)
You can see here. the Jeep's OE fuel pressure regulator. They are factory set at 49 pounds, which would run the LS1, but they are designed to run about 60 pounds of pressure. The regulator dumps the excess fuel right back into the module.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150317_141633_zpsd66xpu1u.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150317_141633_zpsd66xpu1u.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150315_163053_zpsdl7wz9f8.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150317_164615_zpsfx5kiwa5.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150317_164615_zpsfx5kiwa5.jpg.html)
Here's what the module looks like without that regulator in place. You can see, there needs to be something there, to bridge the gap in the system, so to speak.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150325_134052_zpsknff0nty.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150325_134052_zpsknff0nty.jpg.html)
This is after the aluminum FPR eliminator was installed, along with a return line, back to the module.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150325_141052_zpsazato644.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150325_141052_zpsazato644.jpg.html)
-
Plumbing the fuel system took a little research. I wanted to run the stock, nylon style fuel line, seen on GM and ChryCorp cars, but it turns out a kit to assemble that stuff costs more than buying braded AN hose. I didn't want to run braided hose either, because it's notoriously leaky, and tends to produce fumes. Earls has this new stuff called Superstock hose, which is a synthetic rubber hose, with a very tough nylon liner, and it just pushes together for a tight seal. It's pressure rated to 250lbs, so it can handle most fuel system duties, and is great for tranny coolers too. Also, it's important to note, when eliminating the charcoal canister from a fuel system, You have to cap off the vent hose at the fuel tank, and get a vented fuel cap, or Your rig just won't run.
I started with the Corvette filter/regulator, and a separate filter to catch the small stuff.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150329_172922_zpsrnf1kraq.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150329_172922_zpsrnf1kraq.jpg.html)
Then I ran the Superstock hose, up to the fuel rail. It's a simple layout. I did cover the hose in the engine bay with some heat reflective insulation, to prevent fuel heat soak, which is common to Cherokee's because of the tight engine quarters.
[(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150320_155619_zpsl7trwzrk.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150320_155619_zpsl7trwzrk.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150325_164213_zpsbp19gux9.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150325_164213_zpsbp19gux9.jpg.html)
-
At this point, My old keister has been working on the Jeep since march of last year. I'm tired, but that's normal. It's looking like what I envisioned now. She runs & drives. there were a few hiccups to iron out. The lighter aluminum engine over the frt axle changed the suspension height dramatically. Death wobble ensued. I had to run down all the worn parts. 150K miles on the chassis. Lots of frt end parts have been replaced, but I couldn't remember what. I found one bad tie rod end. The steering on this thing was transplanted from a V8 ZJ (Grand Cherokee), because they have solid tie rods, instead of tubular. Very stout stuff, & good for up to 35 inch tires.
Replaced the 2 lower control arms with Rubicon Express super flex units. They are tubular, and have the added benefit of curing the rub You get with larger tires. The old control arms are free to a good home. LOL Some new shocks up front, & an adjustable track bar to get the axle centered again. That cured the death wobble, and also cured having extra money in My wallet. Can't complain though. I knew what I was getting into.
Anyways, under the hood, things are shaping up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150701_184625_zpsrukob7q0.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150701_184625_zpsrukob7q0.jpg.html)
She parks nice.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150701_184603_zpszodgo1mq.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150701_184603_zpszodgo1mq.jpg.html)
I added some special emblems to the frt fenders to mess with several of My buds that have Corvettes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0115_zpsntvj6hb9.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0115_zpsntvj6hb9.jpg.html)
-
Things left to do. Get the A/C going. It's requiring some fabrication. I'm fairly A/C literate, so it's something I'm ironing out at this time.
Once the A/C is plumbed, & then wired in, and wired to the dual speed fan, then tested & proven reliable, I'll tidy up the underhood wiring.
Once I get the backup lights wired into the shifter, I'll start getting My interior reassembled. Right now, I've just got the 2 frt seats in for testing and break in.
My transmission build is proving to be very robust, and she always slightly barks the inside tire in a turn during the 1-2 shift because of the auto locker in the rear diff.
I had to pull the tranny last week, to replace my rear main seal, because of my bad judgement. I've done this crap before, and always replace the rear main on a used engine. Well, I screwed up, and stupid oughta hurt.
I'll post some updates when I get her back in order, and I've also been invited to a local car & aviation show in September, and I'll post peoples thoughts from that event.
Jeepzilla lives.
Later.
Jamie
-
:hail: :hail: :goodpost: :chugbeer:
-
:hail: :hail: :goodpost: :chugbeer:
Thanks Brudda! :)
-
Awesome project!
-
just wow! ;D
-
:hail: :hail: :goodpost: :chugbeer:
When I hit the lotto, Will ya build me one? :chugbeer: :thumbs:
-
Cool! What and epic build! Thanks for sharing with us!
-
When I hit the lotto, Will ya build me one? :chugbeer: :thumbs:
Sure! I figure I have about 2.5 million in labor in this thing! Ugh! Man, my old keister is tahrd!
-
I'm driving an old 200 dollar Grand Cherokee until Jeepzilla is determined to be reliable, and most of all, I get the A/C fabbed up. The old Grand Cherokee has cold air, but, man it's a rustbucket.
I'm currently building a hybrid Chrysler, GM, and aftermarket A/C system, using original Jeep parts, Vintage Air bendable lines, a Jeep condenser, and a Sanden 508 series compressor. It's going to be ugly. Trying to make it pretty would mean having a custom made condenser and lines fabricated by someone other than Me. I want it to be stout, and reliable, and put out cold air. I think I can get it done.
The high side discharge hose, with a service port & high pressure switch. The service port is located in a compression fitting, made for A/C lines. Pretty cool little item.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0162_zpsqmj6ns57.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0162_zpsqmj6ns57.jpg.html)
A mockup of the layout of the original Jeep A/C lines, before adapting them to the new compressor.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150722_185929_zps6m9ngy1g.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150722_185929_zps6m9ngy1g.jpg.html)
I fabricated a condenser mount bracket from 1/16th aluminum. Pop rivets make short work of non structural pieces like this. They are a lifesaver.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0164_zpsyozdeiko.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0164_zpsyozdeiko.jpg.html)
Laying out some 90* fittings, as a work around to pass the lines under the huge radiator, that now covers the A/C access hole in the core support.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0165_zpszjed8i6n.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0165_zpszjed8i6n.jpg.html)
-
Even though the LS series of GM engines are very efficient when it comes to the cooling system, I decided to put some vents on My hood, and also...it looks pretty cool. Cherokee's have a very tight underhood area, and one of the problems, is air passing through the radiator has no place to escape. I solved this by using a couple of hotrod style oil cooler scoops, turning the backwards on the hood, and punched a couple of big ol holes in the hood. The low pressure area in front of the windshield, hopefully will help extract some of that hot air, and & low speeds, that Taurus fan should be able to push it out.
Laying out some tape on the hood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150730_135436_zpsis0sjxjy.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150730_135436_zpsis0sjxjy.jpg.html)
Used a plain ol jigsaw with a fine metal cutting blade to cut some holes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150730_145210_zps7wm9hgvi.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150730_145210_zps7wm9hgvi.jpg.html)
Hood scoops/vents, with a little body panel adhesive, and some stainless screws from home depot.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0161_zpsmrrok59k.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0161_zpsmrrok59k.jpg.html)
-
The jungle like climate the past few days has me hustling to get My A/C in working order.
I finally got the condenser lines fabricated, and run through the core support.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG01941_zpsencq976y.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG01941_zpsencq976y.jpg.html)
I've also got the lines to the compressor almost finished. Waiting on one part tp arrive. Hope it gets here soon.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG01901_zpseaewc0xv.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG01901_zpseaewc0xv.jpg.html)
-
Got the A/C plumbed, and the wiring cleaned up a bit. Also added some original Corvette fuel rail covers, to mess with my Corvette enthusiast friends a little. Poke poke. LOL
It's nice to have some cold air conditioning. Freakin Southern Indiana along the Ohio river is like a central American jungle when it comes to humidity.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150814_174731sm_zpstkruv20o.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150814_174731sm_zpstkruv20o.jpg.html)
-
I LOVE THIS THING! I'm assuming the rest of the drivetrain is up to the task. Please post a short video with excessive application of loud pedal. Please?
Oh, by the way, I'm up in the chilly end of IN. riding the twin of your bike, '08, AreaP, even a silver helmet hangin' on it. And believe it or not, I once had a fantasy of saving my big block and 3/4 ton drivetrain out of my old Suburban and stuffing it under an old Wagoneer. But I knew it was just a dream. :-\$$$ :-\
-
Even though the LS series of GM engines are very efficient when it comes to the cooling system, I decided to put some vents on My hood, and also...it looks pretty cool. >>>SNIP<<<
Hood scoops/vents, with a little body panel adhesive, and some stainless screws from home depot.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0161_zpsmrrok59k.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0161_zpsmrrok59k.jpg.html)
Nice project! Wish I had the motovation(along w/ the space & $$$) to tackle a project like that, but just to carry the 'vette theme further... would an L88 style hood scoop have done the job as efficiently along w/ a little better aesthetics?
-
Nice project! Wish I had the motovation(along w/ the space & $$$) to tackle a project like that, but just to carry the 'vette theme further... would an L88 style hood scoop have done the job as efficiently along w/ a little better aesthetics?
Yes, it would, and they are expensive! I had to cut corners with a few things, to get it done. These oil cooler scoops were el cheapos from a speed shop.
-
I LOVE THIS THING! I'm assuming the rest of the drivetrain is up to the task. Please post a short video with excessive application of loud pedal. Please?
Oh, by the way, I'm up in the chilly end of IN. riding the twin of your bike, '08, AreaP, even a silver helmet hangin' on it. And believe it or not, I once had a fantasy of saving my big block and 3/4 ton drivetrain out of my old Suburban and stuffing it under an old Wagoneer. But I knew it was just a dream. :-\$$$ :-\
Yeah, the ChryCorp 8 1/4 diff is pretty stout. 29 spline axles. The front diff is a Dana 30, and they need to be babied, so we'll see about it. The NV231J is a seriously stout transfer case. Mine has been modified somewhat with a 32 spline HD output shaft, so I doubt I'll have any trouble with it. I tend to not use 4WD off road, unless it's pretty slick. Most of the time, Utah slickrock has such high traction, You don't really need to use 4WD.
Once I get all the testing, and changes done as a result of the testing, I'll make a few runs at the local dragstrip just for fun. It's an expedition vehicle though, so I'm not going to thrash it looking for low ETs. I'm looking forward to driving it, sure enough.
Nice bike, by the way. :-)
-
After about 450 testing, and drivability miles, I've decided my cooling fan shroud blocks too much airflow at high speeds. The temp stays well below 190, sometimes dipping to 165 when the fan comes on with the A/C. However, as the Jeep gains speed, I see a temp increase to about 218 degrees on the highway. I'm thinking My aluminum fan shroud allows the fan to pull plenty of air thru the radiator, but blocks too much airflow at speed.
My thoughts are to install flaps on the shroud, that will close when the cooling fan comes on under suction, but as pressure increases with speed, they will open to allow air to flow thru the shroud, and escape at my hood vents, and under the Jeep. I figure some high temp silicone sheet, as used in aircraft cowling can be used for this. Something similar to the pic posted here, but I'll use more surface area.
Any thoughts from fellow hot rodders is welcome, and appreciated.
-
It looks like you have your reversed hood scoops mounted on your hood far enough forward, but the base of the windshield is a high-pressure area. That is why the intake for your heater/vents are located there.
The windshield of your Cherokee has a steep enough windshield that the high-pressure area may reach far enough forward of the windshield base that your vents have actually turned into intakes, so the air from under the hood really has nowhere to go!
Your symptom of the temp going up at highway speeds indicates that this may be the case. Can you block the scoops, and see if the symptoms change? It should be easy enough to try.
I used to race with some guys that tried the same thing as you, and they ended up removing the exhaust "vents", due to the vents actually pressurizing the engine compartment. Once the vents were gone, the high speed temps dropped.
-
Nice work, Dude. 8)
-
It looks like you have your reversed hood scoops mounted on your hood far enough forward, but the base of the windshield is a high-pressure area. That is why the intake for your heater/vents are located there.
The windshield of your Cherokee has a steep enough windshield that the high-pressure area may reach far enough forward of the windshield base that your vents have actually turned into intakes, so the air from under the hood really has nowhere to go!
Your symptom of the temp going up at highway speeds indicates that this may be the case. Can you block the scoops, and see if the symptoms change? It should be easy enough to try.
I used to race with some guys that tried the same thing as you, and they ended up removing the exhaust "vents", due to the vents actually pressurizing the engine compartment. Once the vents were gone, the high speed temps dropped.
That's some great advice! Thanks, I'm going to try blocking the vents, and driving, although, the high speed temp issue existed before the vents were installed. Still, I want to make sure they work, so maybe I'll tape streamers in them, and see which way they blow. Thanks, Man.
I'll post up the results of the streamer, and blockage test.
-
Nice work, Dude. 8)
Thanks JM.
-
Put some streamers in and around the hood vents today, & Racer Boy's advice is good stuff. Turns out my vents are flowing in the wrong direction. Hit the local Pull-A-Part and got another hood. I'll shoot some paint on it, and place the vents on the leading edge of the hood, instead of the rear. Then give it another test.
-
Let us know how it goes!
-
Well, a couple of incarnations of the hood later, I've found a combination of vents, and flappers that does the job of allowing the airflow to vent, and not flow back into the engine bay.
First, I got another hood at the local Pull-A-Part, cut 2 vent holes, and shot some Hot Rod satin black on it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0231sm_zpslgavxbkp.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0231sm_zpslgavxbkp.jpg.html)
Then I painted the vents and installed them. Don't much care for the carbon fiber look.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0233sm_zpslghyrbtl.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0233sm_zpslghyrbtl.jpg.html)
I still thought it could do a better job, so I fabbed up some one way flaps. They only allow air out. They close up tight, if airflow goes the wrong way.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0236sm_zpsidwho01v.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0236sm_zpsidwho01v.jpg.html)
The result is a steady 200 degree temp at 70 MPH on the highway, with a few high speed runs showing no significant increase. I still plan on putting vent flaps in the radiator shroud, but it's not a critical mod at this time. I'm happy with the results. The looks...meh
-
I bet you can surprise some people.
The 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 limited had a cool looking vent on the hood. Not sure if it was functional or not.
Great work.
https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+Jeep+grand+Cherokee+5.9&espv=2&biw=1089&bih=508&tbm=isch&imgil=n3Rx4_4maGl52M%253A%253BAc1E1VTGzKncdM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.cherrylola.com%25252Fpicgisi%25252F1998-jeep-grand-cherokee-5.9-reviews&source=iu&pf=m&fir=n3Rx4_4maGl52M%253A%252CAc1E1VTGzKncdM%252C_&usg=__PUgnFW-9TgkuEmbMO68-7mq-FaY%3D&ved=0CC4QyjdqFQoTCP_i7vbdxMcCFYeQDQodBm0GiA&ei=haLcVb-MB4ehNobamcAI#imgrc=QgMKAC8DsqnUqM%3A&usg=__PUgnFW-9TgkuEmbMO68-7mq-FaY%3D (https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+Jeep+grand+Cherokee+5.9&espv=2&biw=1089&bih=508&tbm=isch&imgil=n3Rx4_4maGl52M%253A%253BAc1E1VTGzKncdM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.cherrylola.com%25252Fpicgisi%25252F1998-jeep-grand-cherokee-5.9-reviews&source=iu&pf=m&fir=n3Rx4_4maGl52M%253A%252CAc1E1VTGzKncdM%252C_&usg=__PUgnFW-9TgkuEmbMO68-7mq-FaY%3D&ved=0CC4QyjdqFQoTCP_i7vbdxMcCFYeQDQodBm0GiA&ei=haLcVb-MB4ehNobamcAI#imgrc=QgMKAC8DsqnUqM%3A&usg=__PUgnFW-9TgkuEmbMO68-7mq-FaY%3D)
-
Well, a couple of incarnations of the hood later, I've found a combination of vents, and flappers that does the job of allowing the airflow to vent, and not flow back into the engine bay.
The result is a steady 200 degree temp at 70 MPH on the highway, with a few high speed runs showing no significant increase. I still plan on putting vent flaps in the radiator shroud, but it's not a critical mod at this time. I'm happy with the results. The looks...meh
Great news!
-
I bet you can surprise some people.
The 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 limited had a cool looking vent on the hood. Not sure if it was functional or not.
Great work.
https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+Jeep+grand+Cherokee+5.9&espv=2&biw=1089&bih=508&tbm=isch&imgil=n3Rx4_4maGl52M%253A%253BAc1E1VTGzKncdM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.cherrylola.com%25252Fpicgisi%25252F1998-jeep-grand-cherokee-5.9-reviews&source=iu&pf=m&fir=n3Rx4_4maGl52M%253A%252CAc1E1VTGzKncdM%252C_&usg=__PUgnFW-9TgkuEmbMO68-7mq-FaY%3D&ved=0CC4QyjdqFQoTCP_i7vbdxMcCFYeQDQodBm0GiA&ei=haLcVb-MB4ehNobamcAI#imgrc=QgMKAC8DsqnUqM%3A&usg=__PUgnFW-9TgkuEmbMO68-7mq-FaY%3D (https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+Jeep+grand+Cherokee+5.9&espv=2&biw=1089&bih=508&tbm=isch&imgil=n3Rx4_4maGl52M%253A%253BAc1E1VTGzKncdM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.cherrylola.com%25252Fpicgisi%25252F1998-jeep-grand-cherokee-5.9-reviews&source=iu&pf=m&fir=n3Rx4_4maGl52M%253A%252CAc1E1VTGzKncdM%252C_&usg=__PUgnFW-9TgkuEmbMO68-7mq-FaY%3D&ved=0CC4QyjdqFQoTCP_i7vbdxMcCFYeQDQodBm0GiA&ei=haLcVb-MB4ehNobamcAI#imgrc=QgMKAC8DsqnUqM%3A&usg=__PUgnFW-9TgkuEmbMO68-7mq-FaY%3D)
Yes, they were functional, & those things were pretty fast for a 4200 pound vehicle. I checked on those vents, and the damn things are about 400 bucks new, and there's none in the salvage yard. :-(
My Cherokee, at a little over 3000 pounds, would definitely surprise some folks. The rear leaf springs are a little too flexy to get good traction off the line, and it's shaped like a cinder block, so all of the pleasing Jeep characteristics still remain. LOL Crappy handling on the road, Buffeting at high speed. ETC. I'd like to see a modified Camaro, or Corvette, race me up Poison Spider trail in Moab, Utah, though. Heheh.
-
The front winch bumper was looking pretty heinous.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0216sm_zpsoipk7ixt.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0216sm_zpsoipk7ixt.jpg.html)
So I took it off, used a flap disc on it, and shot some of the Hot Rod black on it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150825_161328smlvl_zpsaalpparz.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150825_161328smlvl_zpsaalpparz.jpg.html)
Got it remounted.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/KIMG0237smlvl_zpsji5osjvg.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/KIMG0237smlvl_zpsji5osjvg.jpg.html)
Then I put the winch back on. Jeeps just don't look right without a winch.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_20150825_190327smlvl_zpsjtdsychi.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_20150825_190327smlvl_zpsjtdsychi.jpg.html)
-
Now THAT'S a bumper/winch combo! It also balances out the look of the "snorting nostrils". IT'S A BAD BUGGY! :thumbs:
-
Now THAT'S a bumper/winch combo! It also balances out the look of the "snorting nostrils". IT'S A BAD BUGGY! :thumbs:
Yeah, I noticed the vents didn't seem to stand out as much! I'm pretty happy about that. Glad I'm not the only one that sees it. Thanks, Man!
-
Been off the forum for a while, but have been checking in on your build. Looks like it is coming along fine. About a month ago I picked up a '98 TJ with 4L, 4" RC lift, new 33" tires, SYE, Tom Woods drive shaft, adjustable track bars, new exhaust including cat, new top. It had Death Wobble bad which I corrected with right side ball joints, tie-rod end, and new stabilizer. It only has 3.07 gears on a D30/D35 combo, so yesterday I went to the junk yard and got a D30/D44 set with 4.11 gears. I'll put new ball joints in these with new seals at a minimum. I've never did a ring and pinion change/set-up so I didn't want to tackle it on this where it might see some abuse then fail. Besides, I wanted at least the D44 rear end. I'll clean these up then swap these in the next few weeks as my wife is going out of town for about 3 weeks so I have a second vehicle to use (besides the bikes). I had to replace the distributor because on one of the screws holding the cap on, they busted a screw in tried to drill it out and snapped the drill bit off (found this after I got it home). The jeep also had no rear bumper so I picked a used Rock Hard 4x4 bumper/tire carrier used locally. I stripped and sanded it then used Rustoleum's Bed Liner paint on it along with the front one. This stuff looks really nice - you may want to consider it on yours.
-
A little update on My Jeep Cherokee (Jeepzilla) Project. It's been a while. Several evolutions of certain systems, such as the cooling system, and hood louvers, but I've put about 12K miles on her since the buildup. Here's how it looks now.
I've also worked on My wiring harness in an attempt to make it more robust, and handle winch duty better if needed. A custom built 170 amp alternator, with 2 gauge wiring will fill the bill for that. I've driven it from Indiana to Utah, and put it through the paces in the back country in the Moab area. It's doing what I want it to do. Gets me to the spots I'm no longer able to hike. Utah pics inbound.
-
Here's a shot form the Moki Dugway, before I changed out the cobbled up hood vents to something a little less heinous. And some other Jeep themed pics.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_4503_zpsvt2wcksz.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_4503_zpsvt2wcksz.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_4498_zpsy7x8p3cw.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_4498_zpsy7x8p3cw.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_4511_zpslvoojkid.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_4511_zpslvoojkid.jpg.html)
Where we're going, You make Your own roads.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/mcthnif/IMG_4497_zpssbbjso5x.jpg~original) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mcthnif/media/IMG_4497_zpssbbjso5x.jpg.html)
-
Nice! Glad you got it "done" (haha). I wish I could get out west to go wheeling. Beautiful scenery! I'm on the east coast and try to stay in the rocks when possible. We're mostly dense wooded trails and of course the EVIL mud. In the GW National Forest (nearest legal place to me) any mud you find is mostly decayed oily shale that turns into a yellowish muck that stains everything. Super slippery too. I had to service my transfer case linkage yesterday as it would no longer get into 4-Lo. I need to get 4 new bumpers for the linkage where it bolts holder to the body. At least I'll be good for OBX this coming weekend. Here's some of mine recently...
-
Nice! Glad you got it "done" (haha). I wish I could get out west to go wheeling. Beautiful scenery! I'm on the east coast and try to stay in the rocks when possible. We're mostly dense wooded trails and of course the EVIL mud. In the GW National Forest (nearest legal place to me) any mud you find is mostly decayed oily shale that turns into a yellowish muck that stains everything. Super slippery too. I had to service my transfer case linkage yesterday as it would no longer get into 4-Lo. I need to get 4 new bumpers for the linkage where it bolts holder to the body. At least I'll be good for OBX this coming weekend. Here's some of mine recently...
I'm running a Novak "cable operated" transfer-case shifter adapter, and it eliminates all that linkage. Highly recommended. (Edit to add) The Jeep dealer parts dept usually has those linkage inserts in stock, and they're cheap, (I think $7 for a little bag of them) so if You want to fix it frugally, that's the way to go.
Love that TJ! Great Jeeps!
-
Just thought I'd post back. I got the OEM grommet kit, cleaned everything up (wire brush and straighten) and kept it stock. Works great again, nice and smooth. Took it out last weekend for a club ride and everything worked perfectly.
On a side note, I just picked up a polished Banks SS header to replace my cracked OEM cast exhaust manifold. Also, my Ford 8.8 4.56 rear axle is ready to go in, and I have all of the parts to swap the front gears out to 4.56. Now if I can just find the time.....
-
Just thought I'd post back. I got the OEM grommet kit, cleaned everything up (wire brush and straighten) and kept it stock. Works great again, nice and smooth. Took it out last weekend for a club ride and everything worked perfectly.
On a side note, I just picked up a polished Banks SS header to replace my cracked OEM cast exhaust manifold. Also, my Ford 8.8 4.56 rear axle is ready to go in, and I have all of the parts to swap the front gears out to 4.56. Now if I can just find the time.....
Good deal on the 8.8 axle. They are plenty stout. They do have some issues with the tubes twisting in the center section, and a lot of folks get them welded before installing them. I've never actually seen it happen. I'll probably get one for mine, if the CryCorp axle ever grenades. So far, it's not showing any signs of doing so, after 11K miles.
-
Mine is fully welded on each tube. Whoever did it (the entire axle) did some VERY nice welding. Nice fillets and very good penetration. I rebuilt the axle and put new bearings, seals, Pads, rotors, hoses and lines, and anything else that could be replaced then painted it gun metal metallic. Looks nice! I still need to get a "good" diff cover. Probably a Solid or Poison Spyder. My D35 and D30 are doing fine but the 3.07 ratio is driving me nuts.
-
Very nice! Post some shots after the install if You get a chance.
Several years ago, I installed 4.56 gears in the diffs on mine, and now that I'm running the V8, I kinda wish I'd gone with 4.11s. I need to go with 33 inch tires now, to get my highway RPMs down some. I kinda like 31s because of less weight, and better mileage. XJ's don't have a lot of tire clearance, so I'm gonna have to trim the fenders and put on some aftermarket flares to do 33 inchers.
-
31s? You definitely need 33s with 4.56 - I don't care what engine you're running. You might actually get better mileage. You could probably go 35s without any other modifications except wheel wells. They will also help to give a little smoother ride in the rough stuff and of course let you crawl over things easier. Do you use discos (anti-sway bar disconnects)? That will make it even better. I made my own from some 12mm bolts and lynch pins. I never get to use 5th gear in this area and 1st could be a little lower - I can't wait to dump these 3.07s.
I added one of those vent scoops on the cowl panel facing forward to "improve" air flow to the climate system. What I found was that it overpowered the blend door going down the road, let in too much hot air, and would burn our feet even when the system was off. I removed it and everything went back to normal. I also added a heater core shut off valve so there is no extra heat in the cab when wheeling. I used a $15 valve from AutoZone and a generic choke cable. I don't like the cable and will be switching it out for a black plastic sheathed one (Lowes maybe?). The push/pull knob is located on the fire wall just above the clutch pedal.
-
I went to the 4.56 gears originally to help the six banger in the mountains on I-70. Before the motor got tired, that worked OK. Pulling our little pop up camper over the Rockies wasn't too bad, and it didn't make a lot of difference in fuel mileage. With the V8, the fuel mileage is about 17 on the highway, but at 70 MPH, i'm turning 2500 rpm. 33 inchers will bring me down to about 1900 rpm. I don't really need any bigger, because the knuckles and hubs on a Dana 30 aren't really up to the task. Building a bigger frt axle would cost almost as much as the engine swap. LOL
No disconnects on the frt axle. I had some fancy ones years ago, and never disconnected them once. Got a locker in the rear axle, and I've pulled that pop up camper so far off road, it's wheels weren't touching the ground. haha
-
The latest mods to the Jeep project. Using HP Tuners software to adjust the timing and fuel curve on this rig. Trying to get the highway fuel economy ironed out, while still making good low RPM torque, and plenty of wide open throttle power.