Greetings all!

I have recently aquired a "project" Connie, a 1986 model. The bike had been sitting for a considerable period of time (3yrs according to the P.O., but I think it was much longer!) and I'm currently in the process of ressurecting it. I finally got it running, and initially, the engine didn't sound too horribly bad. There was a random "cracking" sound coming from what sounded like the top end when I first got it running. I pulled the valve cover, and checked the valvetrain, adjusted the valves, and looked at the cam chain slack. I didn't see any percieveable slack in the chain, and although the valves needed some attention, they weren't too far out of adjustment. Cams and rockers also looked good. I put everything back together, got it running and synced the carbs. The engine sounded MUCH better, but I couldn't ride it at this point as I was waiting on brake and fuel tank parts to arrive.

A week later, I fixed my brake issues, rebuilt the petcock, and installed the tank. Now, when I went to start the bike, it was very hard to start, the random "cracking" was back, and the bike generally didn't want to run very well. Initialy, it almost sounded like it was only running on 3 cylinders. After checking common items like loose wires, I feathered the throttle enough to get it moving. After a few rides up and down my street, the engine seemed to run better, but I couuld still hear an occasional "cracking" from what sounds like the top/front of the engine.

The bike has about 22,000mi on it currently. Repairs up to this point have been: Remove, clean and adjust carbs, replaced airbox to carb boots, replaced throttle cables, adjust valves, clean spark plugs, replace clutch master cylinder, rebuild clutch slave cylinder, change engine oil and filter, replace air filter, rebuild rear caliper, replace rear master cylinder, replace various missing body hardware. Pending work: Rebuild front brake master cylinder, rebuild front calipers. (waiting on parts)

Sorry for such a long post, but I wanted to convey as much info as possible. Are these noises/symptoms normal? This is by no means my first bike, but it's my first Connie.

Thanks in advance!
Mike

Not being able to hear it, I would look at the cam-chain tensioner.  Make sure it is working.  It's a fine line between loose and tight.  Loose gives a rattle, tight is silent.  It is located on the left side of the engine, near the petcock, behind the left lower black panel.  It has a two mounting bolts and a center cap bolt.  Remove the center bolt only, use a small screw driver, and unscrew it only a half turn and pull the screw driver out.  This will let it "snap" into position.  Do this a few times to make sure it is working.  If it isn't snapping back, this maybe the problem, although a failed one sounds like the engine is getting ready to disenagrate.  When they fail, the spring inside jumps out of the slot or breaks off and it unloads the pressure on the guide.  Some people (me) switch to a manual CCT when this happens.  As the engine warms up the chain gets tighter and the sound typically lessens.

Of course this may have nothing to do with you sound issue.

I was suspecting the tensioner as well, that's why i looked at the chain carefully. I had a 750 Vulcan that used a similar style tensioner, and had issues too. The noise from that was different than what I'm hearing. (I replaced that one with a manual tensioner)

 I didn't know about how to check using the center screw, I'll certainly check it out.

Is it possible the balance shaft could be making the noise?

I've never messed with my balancer.  There is a procedure for checking/adjusting it that sounds pretty simplistic.  I believe you just loosen the cinch bolt and turn it from side to side until you are in the middle of the quiet zone, then tighten back up.  Hot or cold, I don't know.  If memory is correct, it usually makes a squeal noise from the lower right front.  There are a few different schools of thought about the balancer, maybe someone with first-hand knowledge will chime in soon.

The alternator engagement piece (for lack of the right name) has also been known to work loose and make more of a clunking noise.  To check it, you pull the alt and tighten the one bolt that mounts it to the shaft.  If you go this far, I would put lock-tite on it too.

If you want to adjust your balancer shaft, it must be done starting with the engine cold. Start the engine, loosen the clamp bolt, while holding the balancer shaft in position with a screwdriver, turn the balancer shaft counter clockwise until you hear a chirping noise. Turn the shaft clockwise until the noise stops, tighten the clamp bolt and you are done.

The very early model Concours have a completely different cam chain tensioner than the later model bikes. It's been so long since I fooled with an early model tensioner, that CRS has set in on the proper way to trick it into working right. Perhaps Man Of Blues can chime in and offer his expert opinion on the best way to handle that.

If you want to adjust your balancer shaft, it must be done starting with the engine cold. Start the engine, loosen the clamp bolt, while holding the balancer shaft in position with a screwdriver, turn the balancer shaft counter clockwise until you hear a chirping noise. Turn the shaft clockwise until the noise stops, tighten the clamp bolt and you are done.

The very early model Concours have a completely different cam chain tensioner than the later model bikes. It's been so long since I fooled with an early model tensioner, that CRS has set in on the proper way to trick it into working right. Perhaps Man Of Blues can chime in and offer his expert opinion on the best way to handle that.

don't mess with the balancer adjustment, that is only there as a means to take a little slop out of the mechanism in the initial build, we all have found it does not enhance anything after the fact, therefor messin ain't gonna do a thing.

it as already mentioned, partially, how to "shock' the pre 94 cam chain adjuster, and that is to remove the "bolt" and using the screwdriver, turn it (iirc) counterclockwise? well, which ever way it moves, without forcing it...do not force it, one direction only and it will move, turn it that way till it stops, then pull the driver out. repeat this about 3 or for times. If you noted the clocking on the slot prior, you will see that it is now in a different position. you may repeat this multiple times. What you are doing is retracting the tensioner plunger, and letting it slam against the chain, incrementally taking out the slack. It will hurt nothing. When you are satisfied it is better, re-install the cover bolt.
Do not force the adjuster in the direction it does not want to turn in, doing so will cause a catastrophic malfunction/disassembly internally, and will require steps to repair it that are not fun. just understand it only will turn one direction.
I cannot say this has anything to do with the odd sound you are hearing, just telling you how that procedure works. without hearing first hand, that sound you note, there is little I can say about it specifically.

I just put mine back together and initially was getting not so much a crack but a sharp hiccup. Check that the forward and aft carb boots are seated and clamps and springs snug. Made all the difference for me. I had forgot to snug the clamps on front, but the rears you really have to carefully examine to see if they are really where they should be.

don't mess with the balancer adjustment, that is only there as a means to take a little slop out of the mechanism in the initial build, we all have found it does not enhance anything after the fact, therefor messin ain't gonna do a thing.

But what if a PO had attempted to adjust the balance shaft and F'ed it up. Wouldn't hurt to adjust it to be sure.

Since I've got an '86 with a kinda-noisy CCT, can it be swapped out for the newer style CCT?  Is it worth doing?

random "cracking" was back, and the bike generally didn't want to run very well. Initialy, it almost sounded like it was only running on 3 cylinders.

Sounds to me like its arcing out around or through one of the spark plug boots.

Since I've got an '86 with a kinda-noisy CCT, can it be swapped out for the newer style CCT?  Is it worth doing?

Yes and yes. I would replace the rear and upper chain guides and the chain also.

Most likely, an '86 (or any other year) with only 22k on it (as PO said) does not need the chain or guides replaced.  When my CCT finally gave up (spring broke too many times), I tried to use a late model on my '87 and had problems with it.  It was a used one and maybe had something wrong with it.  I purchased a manual CCT to solve that problem and quit playing with it.

Most likely, an '86 (or any other year) with only 22k on it (as PO said) does not need the chain or guides replaced.  When my CCT finally gave up (spring broke too many times), I tried to use a late model on my '87 and had problems with it.  It was a used one and maybe had something wrong with it.  I purchased a manual CCT to solve that problem and quit playing with it.

OK, I missed the mileage, so yeah, chain and upper guide are likely OK.
But the older CCT had a round tip, and it dug a hollow into the guide. When the CCT was revised, the tip was changed to a flat surface and the guide shape was changed also. If you change to the newer CCT, you should also change to the newer rear guide. The pics from zl-oa (thanks mark and jared) tell the story.

Sounds to me like its arcing out around or through one of the spark plug boots.

I know what that sounds like, my Yamaha did that when it had cracks in the coil housings. The noise is louder than that, more like a metal to metal clacking sound, but the randomness/going away after warm up is what has me stumped.

I still have to rebuild the front brakes, and then I'll be able to ride the bike and give it a good shake-down. I'll post back if anything happens.

Thanks for all the replies!
Mike

Thanks GeeBeav - I never realized they had two different chain guides.  I knew the tips were different, now it makes sense.  That would explain why it didn't work right.

Yes and yes. I would replace the rear and upper chain guides and the chain also.

geeeze Beave, thanks...hehehehe
in my opinion the answer is Yes...and No, and here's why.
the new style (post94) has issues that can be more complex, it seems the small spring that keeps tension on the ratchet pawl, gets diplaced, causing a malfunction in that unit also....
I prefer the pre 94 version because it is must sturdier, and offers the option of "shocking" the chain to remove slack, that is, it can be retracted, and allowed to "slam home" against the chain repeatedly, removing the interim slack, and restoring the bike to a quiet state, the correctly operating pre 94 tensioner is far superior to the post 94, I have done service on both, have held both, and compared them closely myself. thus my opinion. I also had an 86 with a new style tensioner, and an old style slider, and it functioned fine...go figure...(it was like that when I got it...) sold at 138k miles, and it was one of the quietest Connis I have seen...

Most likely, an '86 (or any other year) with only 22k on it (as PO said) does not need the chain or guides replaced.  When my CCT finally gave up (spring broke too many times), I tried to use a late model on my '87 and had problems with it.  It was a used one and maybe had something wrong with it.  I purchased a manual CCT to solve that problem and quit playing with it.

if the slider is in good shape (the pic beave showed evidently has been damaged...) I think it will work fine, i have installed old in new applications already, on low milage bikes, without problems....just relating personal experience again.

RFH, did the spring actually break, or become dislodged from the slot, and actually was in need of a re-wind, and re-install...?
it is tricky to explain, but I have torn down, cleaned and rebuilt them, and it takes a little knowhow on that part to get it right.... when you buy a new one, there is a "device-clip" that holds it together, and retracted during the install, and once removed, it slams home.... if you disassemble the adjuster completly it's easy to re-assemble it incorrectly, many I have seen are just that situation.

geeeze Beave, thanks...hehehehe
 
. . . the pre 94 version . . . can be retracted, and allowed to "slam home" against the chain repeatedly, removing the interim slack, and restoring the bike to a quiet state 

Thanks, MOB . . . hehehehe

The OP can certainly try that, doesn't cost a thing.

Still prefer the new style CCT.

At first it jumped out of the slot twice in week.  Then a few weeks later, the part of the spring that goes in the housing slot snapped off.  I bent a new one and it lasted about a month.  The thin wire I guess fractured.  I agree - the early model is best.

PS - I'm pretty good at these things too.

Is that clack you are hearing faulty ignition causing everything to slack and jump forward?  You said it was not running well, and seemed like it was missing.  I don't know ANYTHING about those bikes.  But that sounds to me like it is either sucking air, or not getting fire.  Maybe that is just causing enough issue to cause your probs. 

If I am way off SORRY!!  Just sounds familiar to me.

Turns out it was the cam chain tensioner. I took the cap off, "snapped" the screw, and now the chain noise is gone! Initially, there seemed to be some resistance with the screw "snapping" back, but after two or three tries, it moved more freely. The bike had been sitting for some time, so maybe it was just stuck. Engine runs better and is much quieter now!

Now I just have to find a way to adjust the mixture screws so it will run even better!

Thanks for all the help!