Very good writeup by the OP.
Has anyone tried this on a 2014-2015 yet ?
I have a set of cages on the way for my 2015 C14 and reading this makes me nervous as hell. Almost to the point of not even attempting it.
One question, what does this line mean:
Catching what ?
Welcome to the forum JTX! I had no problem on my 2010. I wouldn't think there is any difference between Gen-2 bikes 2010-2015. On mine the engine bolts had a lot of what looked like orange thread locker and they were very tight. After I got the bolts out, I carefully cleaned the threads and when I put them back in I used blue, non-permanent, Loc-Tite. Just make sure you don't cross thread them. I've had the cages off and back on several times since then and no problems.
Welcome to the forum JTX! I had no problem on my 2010. I wouldn't think there is any difference between Gen-2 bikes 2010-2015. On mine the engine bolts had a lot of what looked like orange thread locker and they were very tight. After I got the bolts out, I carefully cleaned the threads and when I put them back in I used blue, non-permanent, Loc-Tite. Just make sure you don't cross thread them. I've had the cages off and back on several times since then and no problems.
I had the same type of install on my 2013. The bolts had Orange thread locker on then. This color leads me to believe that it is Kawasaki's own brand of thread locker, and is different from the Permatex Red Loctite that many are referring to. When taking the engine mount bolt out, I used a quality hex, and a 3/8'' breaker bar. No problems what so ever. As mentioned above, I then cleaned the bolt threads, and in addition, I also re-tapped the engine to make sure there was nothing fouling the threads. Blue loctite was applied when reassembled.
+1 I used a Craftsman 3/8" drive hex socket, made sure it was fully seated and had no problem at all.
No heat ? I think the key is to not force it if it is real tight... apply more heat from what I am reading.
No I didn't apply any heat. I'm not sure how you would. These bolts are into the engine, I would be very reluctant to use a torch in there.
No I didn't apply any heat. I'm not sure how you would. These bolts are into the engine, I would be very reluctant to use a torch in there.Could you leave the socket on to contain and direct the heat from a pencil tip torch?
No heat ? I think the key is to not force it if it is real tight... apply more heat from what I am reading.
It never even occurred to me to use heat. I first did it with the MC bathroom bars. I had no idea there could potentially be a problem. I just used my Craftsman sockets (I know not a Snap-On but I've never broken one in several decades of use) and a cheater bar. Applied torque and they just came out. It wasn't until I had them out that I even knew Kawi used a locking compound. I'm guessing whatever compound they use it is designed to allow the bolt to be removed for servicing. Just a matter of torque. Have people been breaking off bolts?
On another forum, I'm seeing reports of broken bolts and rounded out/stripped hex heads, yes. So I found your guys forum, and the great writeup at the top of the thread, so I posed the question about heating.
I really really really really don't want a broken bolt in the engine mount.
Well, I have pretty good craftsman tools here, not junk anyway. I put a good hex socket on my 3 foot bar, and tried to break them loose with moderate force and they didn't budge.
These bolts are secured with a threadlock compound.
Damaging things is not worth the bars. So I might just skip it unless my local dealer will do it without charging me for 3 or 4 hours of labor at their 80$+ rate.
Kawasaki put WAY too much threadlock (or way too strong, or both) on the bolts. EVERYONE complains they are way too difficult to remove. All I can tell you is that the forum has had dozens and dozens and dozens of people install the fallover protection and I don't recall ever reading a single post about the bolts actually breaking.
It's why I'm going to try to heat it before I give up.
I might also go get a snapon hex bit, extension, and breaker bar. I bet it wont flex like my craftsman does =D