Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Brad Baerwald on July 23, 2015, 10:58:14 AM
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Hi Guys,
Yup, I'm one of those guy's that didn't know "Hydro-ing" was something that ever happened to a C10... mine happened 100 miles from home as it sat in a parkinglot overnight. I knew I had a stuck float but had to park it and get to work (new years at the church I work sound at... and yes it's that far away) went to start it in the rain for the long cold ride home and BANG! all over!
2 weeks later in a shed at the church I checked for a bent con rod... (using the Tech. one of your guys suggested on a post at this site) and sure enough!
Year and a half later I finally started putting it back together last couple of days and its together and running! It actually starts better than it EVER has (as I went thru the carbs carefully and made sure the choke valves / diaphams are working)
BUT very little power! it will free rev but you get the sense it's not happy... On the road it has very little torque and "Boggs" very hard if you open the throttle both too far and / or too fast. If I "milk it" I can get the rev's aound 7 or 8 K but even then if I slam the throttle full open...BOGG.and it's almost like I imagine a "Jake Brake" acts
HELP! I've had the bike appart so many times my hands are bleeding from every knuckle! Anybody know what my bike's issue is??
right now I'm waiting for the bike to cool so i can go see if I have the Cams swapped??!? but I don't even know if thats possible anyway? I've pulled the carbs twice checked my foalts, then the vacuum diaprhams (if they are properly seated)... but nothing seems to fix the problem
brad b Studio51
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have you done a compression check. I think that might tell you your cam timing is off one tooth.
That is my best guess
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I have to ask if you are trying to run it on the 7 month old fuel that was in the tank, especially if you shook the tank like when it was removed and reinstalled a couple times.... when you clean and repair carbs, always ditch all of the fuel, rinse the tank with fresh fuel from a new gascan, and start fresh.
methinks you will need to drain and reclean those carbs again now...
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Thanks Guys! for the responses!
I'm trying desperately not to fall into a deep state of depression... I went in and re-timed the cams to the crank, but it doesn't look like anything is different from before! I even went as far as trying everything one tooth each way to look if it could be "fudged" one way or the other but allas no... only one way works and I must have counted the cam chain pins to "35" about 40 times!
Is there a (bad) chance that there is more damage than the connecting rod and bearing that I replaced? when I put the cylinder block on I did a "good looking" at it (and the pistons) to see if there was any twisting but I didn't "mic' it out or nothing. Have you folks ever heard of a "hydro'd Conny that wasn't fixable??
Daytona Mike; I did a compression test (only on cylinder 1) and only got about 85PSI... the book says 128-180ish...WTH?? also I noticed that (when I crank the motor with the starter motor) I get a wierd preasure pulse from the vacume hose that feeds the Petcock... that seems wierd to me (like a cam timing issue!!?!) but Ive checked and re-checked! and then checked again. the pistons and rings all look great cause this is a pretty low milage bike (it just turn 37,000) and when I had her apart she looked amazing (my 93 ZX11D looked way worse and she goes like a bat outa hell (yeah she did the "3rd bearing spinned thing" so I had her all apart too)
I didn't think I was this bad of a mech. but I'm getting my ass kicked
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Compression test on the other three cylinders to compare. 85# wont do it.
Sparkplugs all out, throttle wide open, battery fully charged.
Given various inaccuracies in gauges, the amount of difference between cylinders is more important to me than the actual number, but that's not even a start there.
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a lot of things may have occurred during reassembly, like the ring gaps not being staggered, and the low compression may also just due to a dry cylinder.
I assume you checked and double checked the valve clearances during the assembly, you may be wanting to pour about a teaspoon of light weight oil in thru the the sparkplug holes and turn the engine over a bunch to wet the cylinders.
and do hold the throttle wide open when cranking it during the compression test, very important.
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Ignition timing?
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Bare in mind gentelmen, that even though it has very little power it's runnig very smoothly (like a sewing machine) when I get it back together again I will do a small video clip with sound. It doesn't sound any different than it ever has and it isn't backfiring. It now starts very easy and very evenly (it NEVER did that before it used to only start on 2 cylinders and was very sensitive to choke postion)
I had it out on the highway this morning doing 70 MPH... but it just doesn't have any get up and go. and will not rev but boggs and quickly slows down if I open the throttle wide open, pulling a tall gear
I agree that it seems like some kind of timing issue ... but I can't find anything with the cams and I wasn't aware you could do ANYTHING to the ignition timing...like I don't even uderstand how they accomplish timing advance on this bike?? maybe that isn't working?
but keep it coming guys cause I obviously can't find it!!
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I'm going to repeat, this is a fuel issue.
you did not respond to my comment, so I have to assume what I expect to be true.
dump that fuel, flush and dump again, and flush the carbs. I have been seeing this issue for over ten years here. and can say without a doubt if everything else was unchanged, you have a fuel issue, and stuff migrated back to the carbs again.
pour the gas into your lawnmower.
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well I agree there is nothing like experience (thats why I'm here) and that gas would have been more like 18-19 months old if I had used it LOL!
While I'll admit I wasn't super "thorough" about empting the tank ... the first thing I did was went and filled up with fresh gas. I also installed an "outboard motor fuel filter) to keep the super fine rust particals I found (when I did the first carb cleaning) from making it back into the carbs. BTW I used a filter that is quite large (barely fits under the tank) and is designed to work without a fuel pump. The filter seems to stay full so I can't imagine it's starving the carbs... but who knows
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Just a wild thought. could it be getting to much air when opening up the throttle, hence running to lean when opening up. I had similar symptoms when I left the air filter out of my GPZ750 by accident while test riding it when diagnosing another problem. It idled and started beautifully and only lacked power and bogged down when opening up the throttle fully.
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Bikenagain, Yeah man! and that's kinda the "other side' of Man Of Blues point right? too much air is like not enough gas... and I would agree with you (specially since the airbox is an ABSOLUTE pain in the *^$#%@)(*!!!! to deal with but... It's been fully installed all the time (but not the first time I took it out) and I (like you) figured that the air box needed to be on (with the filter) in order not to run too lean
... I'm going to go with Man Of Blues thing next, but this will be the 4th time those carbs have been pulled and opened up and I'm running out of skin on my hands that isn't bleeding... also the wife is hoping I will stop obsessing and find some time to do some work around here!
I REALLY want this bike back again. As it is the bike that makes me ride more "civilly" and now because it isn't running right (and is almost down right dangerous in traffic) its hard to "choose" to ride it when the ZX11 is looking at me and saying softly "let's go kick some ass"... The world doesn't need me out there (at my age) looking like another crazy crotch rocket guy... but DAMN its fun!
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After you are done with the fueling/carb issue(s), address the compression issue against the other three cylinders. I would be very interested to see what they all come in at in comparison to the "low" one.
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Remove the fuel filter. It's full because gas flows freely to the filter. That doesn't mean gas is getting through it.
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About the only fuel filter that works remotely right is the FRAM 3006. It is 5/16" inlet and outlet with a 90d bend - most people incorrectly select a filter with 1/4" because they are easy to find. The majority of riders later decide not to use it because it can restrict fuel flow at higher rpm (like it sounds like you are getting) and even just idling. Remove it temporarily at least for the testing until the bike runs right.
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OK, so I KNEW everyone was going to give me **** about the filter so I removed it before anyone said anything.
In a word I would say "better" and it's basically ride-able.. BUT it's still VERY wrong! It's so wierd, it purrs like a kitten, it starts way easier, it rev's nicely (no appearent miss firings) yet the bogging and the lack of pull (torque) are madding!
all the advice I believe has helped but there is still something fundementally wrong! I'm now certain that s(hort of something being bent)... the timing is perfect and I'm not opening it again! It has to be Carbs! but I can't get them any cleaner (that I know of)
If we ever get this right it will be one for the record books... even if it can't be fixed I need to know what is wrong (for my own sanity)
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Repeat. Compression on all four?
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Repeat. Compression on all four?
Yes... Until you confirm that you have solid 128 - 196 PSI per cylinder you are pissing up a rope.... I'd go with a cylinder leak-down test too.... Confirm that you have or have not an engine issue then move on to the carbs etc....
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1) a compression test with the throttle closed will yield results like this;
2) remove the crank bolt holding the timing plate on and make sure the locating pins isn't sheared. it's common to try to rotate the engine with the "big nut" and shear the pin. the plate then moves out of time, and then all the cam timing and ignition timing is off a few degrees. this will yield slow throttle response and low compression.
3) one last thought is if the intake cam is times with the wrong timing mark vs the location of the cam. in other words the cam is bolted into the square holes, but timed with the mark for the round holes. Steve
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Brad, obviously some knowledgeable folks have given you areas to address.
Here's an additional thought. In my limited experience, in the late 80's, my incredibly cool KZ1000 once acted this way. Weekend in the garage. Frustrated. My girlfriend / now wife came out with a beer for me, looked it over, and said, "what is this off of?' Fricken vacuum. Idled fine, crap at speed.
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I'm impressed! that you guys haven't given up on me! THANK YOU!! The ideas and the experience you have is re-energizing me to open her up again!
Steve in Sunny Fla, T Cro, and Jettawreck, You are correct I had never done a compression check before! (obviously ha ha) and I bought the tester years ago in one of the "priced to move bins" at an auto parts store... its been in my tool box in its orginal packaging up until I tested Cylinder#1 SO... yes I did not know to hold the throttle wide open AND I had a bad cell in the battery (inspite of the fact that I kept it on a trickle charger) AND I had only pulled the plug for Cylinder #1 I did everything wrong! I'm going to try and do it right this time. If you guys couldn't tell, I've been reluctant to do all the cyclinders for one main reason... I don't think I can get the tester in the holes because of the frame!! would you settle for #'s 1 and 4?? cause I don't know if I can get #'s 2 and 3? but I will try... promise!
Steve in Sunny Fla, I thought of your #2 point when I did the "epic" cam timing session last time. and I completely get you on the position of timing plate! because everything is based on that plate being in the "right place"!! and my way of checking was to insert a long thin allen tool into Cylinder #1's open sparkplug hole and rotate the crank shaft and see if TDC agrees with the marks... it did and it seemed dead on to me (because I would expect it would be fairly slight if it was off..) but do you think that isnt good enough? and what else would you use to turn the crank?? I always saw this as a fragile situation, so i've allways been very gentle when doing so. but without that big nut I don't know how else to rotate the crank? My question has always been; could the Hydrolock event itself some how moved that timing plate? (I don't see how but it a very violent occurence)
You have me really confused on point #3 and this concerns me greatly are you talking about the sprockets being moved? they have never been taken off of the cams.
angelo, Huh?... did you get the KZ1000 working? Your wife was not impressed? you lost me... my wife brings me beers, from time to time too!! Even after 30 plus years! (yes I am lucky) ;D
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actually physically remove the timing plate to determine if the roll pin is intact or not. When measuring TDC on a piston, it has to go through a swing of several degrees that would all appear to be TDC, but you need a timing wheel and a dial indicator to actually determine where TDC is. Just sticking a depth gage of some sort wouldn't catch it.
as far as the cams, if they haven't been off the sprockets that's good; as long as you're using the timing mark adjacent to the bolt you're fine.
angelo is suggesting a vacuum leak. that's not the case here, a vacuum leak will kill your idle.
if my points check out good then we go back with MOB's ideas, it's to lean of a fuel mix for whatever reason. HTH, Steve
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angelo, Huh?... did you get the KZ1000 working? Your wife was not impressed? you lost me... my wife brings me beers, from time to time too!! Even after 30 plus years! (yes I am lucky) ;D
Yessir. Wound up taking that thing to California a week or two later. She still gets impressed - but not often enough to let it get to my head. Good luck getting it running right.
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Ok Steve, I will pull that plate (reluctantly). but I'm going to try the compression tests first and if I get good numbers... would that indicate that I don't have a "timing plate / cam timing issue?
Steve, can't that pin be seen quite clearly while its together? (it sure looks like I can see it...)
I have another thought (rattling around in my head) what if one of the carb sliders wasn't moving (for what ever reason) it would still idle great but I would think that you'd sense that it was missing on a cylinder as the reves picked up. dragging a cylinder would rob a lot of power
Again, Thank you for the genuine concern and input!! Too bad everyone is spread all over the country! I brew my own beer and Mead... I got a batch of (real) dill pickles fermenting in the basement. I have a wood fire oven for pizzas and my wife makes amazing dough (I do the sauce) I'd have everyone over for "home made" everything Ha Ha
Not that anyone cares about what I'm about to say, but I'm going to make an effort to contribute back to this forum (no matter the end result with the Conny) My question concerning this idea is what does this forum see as "most valuable"?... or what can I do to be a valuable contributor? I run an Audio / Video recording studio and I was wondering if I should start videoing this epic "knock down drag out" I'm having with this bike? Or is that "way too much" for this forum?? My point is; I want to give back (If I Can) and audio and video is what I do (I obviously SUCK at writing ha ha ha) Sorry about all the mushy stuff but these days it seems RARE that anyone gives a crap about anybody but themselves! This is an impressive group... Just saying.
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"Steve in Sunny Fla, T Cro, and Jettawreck, You are correct I had never done a compression check before! (obviously ha ha) and I bought the tester years ago in one of the "priced to move bins" at an auto parts store... its been in my tool box in its orginal packaging up until I tested Cylinder#1 SO... yes I did not know to hold the throttle wide open AND I had a bad cell in the battery (inspite of the fact that I kept it on a trickle charger) AND I had only pulled the plug for Cylinder #1 I did everything wrong! I'm going to try and do it right this time. If you guys couldn't tell, I've been reluctant to do all the cyclinders for one main reason... I don't think I can get the tester in the holes because of the frame!! would you settle for #'s 1 and 4?? cause I don't know if I can get #'s 2 and 3? but I will try... promise!"
My compression tester is a cheap one too, so I don't pay a lot of attention to the actual numbers in comparison to what others may get, but uniformity is what is important to me. That's why you want to get all the cylinder's numbers. If it is the typical gauge unit with 6-8" of flex hose on it, it will get the center ones. I can't recall, but the coils may have to come off, which is easy enough. I do remember having to scrounge up the correct spark plug adapter for mine, as it had either gotten "misplaced" or wasn't part of the kit.
Work through it. SISF obviously knows his stuff and has pretty much "seen it all" with these engines. Put his and other's experience and suggestions into practice and the Connie will be back to full power soon.
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Brad, you could pack a frozen pizza or two in dry ice and get it us in pretty good condition.
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OK, DONE... hmmm center cylinders off 10 PSI off from the outer 2 with cylinder 4 having maybe a 5 psi edge on #1
All plugs pulled, Throttle wide open, (air tool oil in each cylinder) and a BRAND new battery:
#1 = 90 PSI #2 = 80 PSI #3 = 80 PSI #4 = 94 PSI
sounds like a TIMING ISSUE Hmmm? interesting the the center 2 are low (I think it was cylinder #2 that bent the rod)
I have to mow the lawn now but if I can get away with it (cause i have a business to run) I will pull the timing plate nut after that... I sure hope this is it... but what if it isn't?? (the Timing plate I'm talking about) and no disrespect to anyone but there is NO way (I) sheared that pin (by using that not to turn the crank... but again I sure hope this is it ?!?!
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Oh and BTW... that rod was bent so bad (see my 2nd post attachment) the engine could NOT turn over!! (because it was binding)
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All plugs pulled, Throttle wide open, (air tool oil in each cylinder) and a BRAND new battery:
#1 = 90 PSI #2 = 80 PSI #3 = 80 PSI #4 = 94 PSI
Wow something is way off should be 128 to 196 PSI
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OMG guys, i'm not prone to freaking out but... I'm freaking out!!! I really needed that pin to be "sheared" its NOT!!!
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here is the timing...it looks pretty spot on to me?! how bout you guys?? "Intake"
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exhust cam
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Timing plate
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OK, DONE... hmmm center cylinders off 10 PSI off from the outer 2 with cylinder 4 having maybe a 5 psi edge on #1
All plugs pulled, Throttle wide open, (air tool oil in each cylinder) and a BRAND new battery:
#1 = 90 PSI #2 = 80 PSI #3 = 80 PSI #4 = 94 PSI
sounds like a TIMING ISSUE Hmmm? interesting the the center 2 are low (I think it was cylinder #2 that bent the rod)
I have to mow the lawn now but if I can get away with it (cause i have a business to run) I will pull the timing plate nut after that... I sure hope this is it... but what if it isn't?? (the Timing plate I'm talking about) and no disrespect to anyone but there is NO way (I) sheared that pin (by using that not to turn the crank... but again I sure hope this is it ?!?!
good job, now we can take the fuel, and timing (for the moment) out of the main cause, and focus on this issue...
you should go back and recheck all your valve clearances, please.
we need to solve the compression issue.
did you use all new gaskets at assembly? did you insure they were sealing correctly, as no knicks or gouges on mating surfaces?
did you only replace one piston, or did you remove all 4?
if they were removed, did you replace rings? end gaps on rings correctly clocked? end gaps inspected to within spec?
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This is the compressor tester I used... doesn't (look like a bad one?)
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I did as little movement and screwing with this as I could. so yes only the piston in question was removed! (none others) I didn't touch or play with ring's (other than remove / install them from / to the cylinders) Now I know where you are going but PLEASE work with me here.. it was running fine just before it broke... I haven't messed with anything! I will check the valve clearences (again) but really?? how can they change AND that consitantly across all cylinders?? BUT I REALIZE I'm the guy at the loss here and you guys KNOW what your talking about... So I will look. I replaced the cylinder Base gasket but reconditioned the Head gasket (used a head Gasket copper spray) but not before I cleaned it COMPLETELY using a sovent (all mating surfaces, top of cylinder and bottom of head... and I mean COMPLETLY clean!!) BTW NO nicks anywhere... and of the 100 plus miles since it's reassembly.. no leakage (into the cooling system) or outside the head gasket gap that I have seen or heard. but admittedly that is "from inside to outside" and that does NOT mean the other way around... AGIAN I'm applealing to common sense... what's the possiblity of THAT level of consistancy if it was leaking?? they want over $100 a head gasket... again I'm appealing to common sense.
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This is the compressor tester I used... doesn't (look like a bad one?)
I've never tried that type on a Conni, and don't know if it works correctly for fit, most of us have the type with a hose, and threaded sealable end piece that screws into the sparkplug hole.... that type works for sure, and also allows you to see if it leaks down....might want to pick one up at a parts store, $20 or so...
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/compression-tester/actron-compression-tester/87580_0_0/ (http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/compression-tester/actron-compression-tester/87580_0_0/)
(http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/acm/CP7826/image/4/)
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I did as little movement and screwing with this as I could. so yes only the piston in question was removed! (none others) I didn't touch or play with ring's (other than remove / install them from / to the cylinders) Now I know where you are going but PLEASE work with me here.. it was running fine just before it broke... I haven't messed with anything! I will check the valve clearences (again) but really?? how can they change AND that consitantly across all cylinders?? BUT I REALIZE I'm the guy at the loss here and you guys KNOW what your talking about... So I will look. I replaced the cylinder Base gasket but reconditioned the Head gasket (used a head Gasket copper spray) but not before I cleaned it COMPLETELY using a sovent (all mating surfaces, top of cylinder and bottom of head... and I mean COMPLETLY clean!!) BTW NO nicks anywhere... and of the 100 plus miles since it's reassembly.. no leakage (into the cooling system) or outside the head gasket gap that I have seen or heard. but admittedly that is "from inside to outside" and that does NOT mean the other way around... AGIAN I'm applealing to common sense... what's the possiblity of THAT level of consistancy if it was leaking?? they want over $100 a head gasket... again I'm appealing to common sense.
ok, this is the issues we deal with trying to find a cure over the web....
you never said anything at the beginning, or during this, stating you put a hundred miles plus since the rebuild.... I was taking this as it was a problem right from the start, after the work was completed, and that it didn't run correctly right off...
now, was this running correctly during the first run, and then after a hundred miles began running poorly?
this makes a big difference.
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it's the intake cam, just as I previously described.
BTW you really need to clean up that rtv mess you've got going on there. Steve
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it's the intake cam, just as I previously described.
BTW you really need to clean up that rtv mess you've got going on there. Steve
I'm tending to agree with you Steve, its just logical, but he needs to answer all the questions...
also, do you think that manual compression tool he used fits down in the well, and seals off the plug hole? I don't, I know the one I have won't reach, and is too big in diameter... we really need reliable compression figures...
then id say if he actually does have good compression, and was riding the bike a hundred miles prior to failure... we go back to the old water in gas thing...
vicious circle bubba
just so you know Brad, you have the top 2 people I know of, regarding this bike, on the case right now.... we have done more impossible diagnostics than this a hundred times or more, over the web..... so stick with us, ok?
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Steve is right, you have used the wrong timing mark on your inlet cam. the one you want is just below the one you have used next to the bolt. You have timed the inlet on the square hole but the cog is bolted on the round holes. have a look at your exhaust cam picture and you will see the timing 2 timing marks opossite the exhaust mark. As the cogs are identical. you have timed the exhaust correctly.
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Steve is right, you have used the wrong timing mark on your inlet cam. the one you want is just below the one you have used next to the bolt. You have timed the inlet on the square hole but the cog is bolted on the round holes. have a look at your exhaust cam picture and you will see the timing 2 timing marks opossite the exhaust mark. As the cogs are identical. you have timed the exhaust correctly.
really? hmmmm, by the photo, and comparing to the book, it does look like 3 teeth shy...
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steve is right
Steve
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At the risk of sounding like I'm blowing smoke up peoples back sides... I AM SO grateful you have NO idea!!! and I keep worrying that you guys will give up on me!!! but I aslo want to be as trueful as possibble (even if it pisses people off) (rock and a hard place) Plus it makes you all's help less effective if I lie about stuff (right?)
sorry about the hundred mile thing but its true... first I put the bike together and it barely ran, but idled nicely ... so at that point (i had enough sense to join this forum) I then put the air box on (like I said) and rode it a bit...10 miles or so and it wasn't good at all but I did get 10 or so miles in. You guys started giving me info and I think you can read between the lines as to when each ride occurred (maybe 2 or 3 times) i took it out after tring the stuff you guys suggested. The last ride was to Annapolis MD to buy some Hard Drives for the video business. That ride, by it's self is an almost 40 mile ride. Like I said each time it's gotten better BUT there has always been a "this isn't going away " quality to the ride.
I'm not joking, I REALLY want this bike back (at least) to its old self (which would be WAY better than it is now) and I am so thankful for the heavy weights that are taking the time to help!!! besides I think if this could happen to me, It will probably happen to someone else at some point... I will endure this pain if later it helps someone else avoid the process! (at the risk of my pride) So trust me I'm in this thing till its fixed. I feel I owe all you guys at least that, The only question is will you guys give up on this painful long distance opperation LOL!!
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I don't undersatnd... are you guys saying the intake cam is timed wrong??
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YES!!! that's it... that HAS to be it!! there are 2 places on the intake cam (right next to each other) with the the word "IN"... GOOD GRIEF!!! I haven't fixed it yet (I will go into the garage and change it now!!) but this is certainly THE issue!! (does anyone have a "dumbass" sticker for me ??)
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!! this HAS to be it!!!
I will report back later!!
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After you get the intake cam timed right, throw that compression tester in the bottom of a drawer somewhere and get one like was pictured by MOB.
;)
I'm thinking your next post will be one of joy when you fire that engine up.
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Related question, sort of.
Are these interference type engines, as in valves and pistons can make contact if out of time and if so, how much "out" can it be before bad things start to happen in there.
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Jettawreck and Steve, (and everyone else)!... Yeah baby!!! pert-near ripped my arms out of my shoulders!!! OH and BTW... I did the compression check after it was timed right... You are going to claim I'm lying.... 210PSI each with #4 a little bit higher 215PSI!! so I don't care if that number is even close to right... but in perspective... that's a big "A" difference from the earlier readings! and assuming that this guage reads high... that means it's amazing it ran at ALL!! that's a real testiment to the toughness of this bike!!
Guys I think I'm gonna cry...
THANK YOU from the bottom of this dumb-asses heart!!!
brad b Studio51... Oh and I'm going to be the guy you wished you never helped HA HA HA...
NO i promise to behave myself!!
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Jettawreck, yeah The manual says that if it's timed wrong... it will hurt it's self (interference) I was off by what? 3 whole teeth on the intake! YIKES... who knows how close I was to distruction but I did always do a few "by hand" rotations to feel for binding before I "put the heat" to it!!
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to be honest, I glanced at your photo of the intake gear, and went on without looking a second time...
gotta hand it to Bubba Steve, he has better eyes, and saw it....damn, he scores another victory over this old man....hehehehhe
glad its sorted out now, see there, we really don't give up.....
good catch Bubba....
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Well I was going to ride "the" bike to my church job (190 miles round trip) (and yes the place that the hydro-lock happened at) However I just got a bad feeling... I might have not have torqued all the cam bolts properly (in my haste to see it run right last night) PLUS I might still have had a little too much margaritta in my system to boot. Caution hit me and I took the ZX11. So today, after both services, and when I get home, I'm going to go thru Conny one last time (and clean up all my horrible RTV... a byproduct of having opened and closed it over and over... hoping each time would be the last).
I'm really excited and the bike seems better than before! and that's because of you guys! again much thanks!
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Hopefully this isn't too late as it's already Monday. Glad you got it sorted out. You don't need any RTV on the valve cover gasket except for a small amount in the corner of each ear (two on each side). If your going gasketless on the timing cover, you may want to consider Yamabond or similar (Hondabond) as it usually doesn't leave little pieces that break off and potentially clog an oil passage like RTV can.
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Just, a "joy" report folks!
Fantastic, gee that bike is smooth! Seems perfect. If I was going to say anything it would be, that at idle (and grunting RPM's) it seems a bit "ticky-er" than I remember ... But I think I'm paranoid (after all this craziness). Once she's spinning anything past 2k it just sounds like a sewing machine!
Also the starting is now amazing... She was always really really finicky now I don't think I even need any choke when she's cold (but it hasn't been that cold yet lol!
Guys I don't know the "etiquette" for these forums... I have some questions about how to deal with fairing fixes I guess I should just start a new thread? Also I was checking out the C10 pics and saw someone (with the same color scheme as mine) and they were commenting on the "claimed" year V the paint scheme being a different year... But mine is supposed to be a "2003" (if I remember). And they were talking 10 years earlier!!!
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Here's a link to a list of the color schemes through the model years. Sometimes they were repeats.
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=38002.0 (http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=38002.0)
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Guys I don't know the "etiquette" for these forums... I have some questions about how to deal with fairing fixes I guess I should just start a new thread?
Yes start a new thread....