tips for front wheel bearing removal?

[JDM]

Go to your local Autozone and borrow a blind bearing puller. It's free and makes the job super easy.

This person thinks like me, thanks for the info.

[vannooch]

When it comes to removing wheel bearings there is absolutely no better tool than BRUTE FORCE and the heaviest punch that you can get yo grab the inner edge of the bearing; no namby pamby tapping will do here you've got to really hit the punch to get the job done.

Myself I use a heavy drift punch that I managed to bend ever so slightly to which this really helps it catch the inner bearing race.

+1

[Furbo]

I replace these babys every 25K....as I recall, one side comes out WAY easier than the other....I have to 'rediscover' which one it is every time.

[Daytona_Mike]

I replace these babys every 25K....as I recall, one side comes out WAY easier than the other....I have to 'rediscover' which one it is every time.

Why?  The stock bearings should be good for 75k if you do not grease them.A good pair of bearings for example Timkins will last even longer.
Grease them periodically and you  can get over 160k.

[datsaxman@hotmail.com]

My stock front bearings failed at 49,500 miles.  Regreased at 20,000 and again at 40,000.  Every time I had the wheel off, actually.  Exploded on a hot day. 

[Roadhound]

Why?  The stock bearings should be good for 75k if you do not grease them.A good pair of bearings for example Timkins will last even longer.
Grease them periodically and you  can get over 160k.

If you have been able to get that kind of mileage out of the Front Wheel bearings on a 2nd generation C-10, consider yourself very lucky. I could get 60,000 miles or better on my old 86, the 2000 and 2006 have always managed to start feeling a little rough at around 40,000 miles.
I check by closely at every tire change and change them out when I feel any irregularity. I've not heard of anyone getting the kind of mileage your speaking of on and 2nd gen C-10.

[enim57]

Regreasing bearings can cause more problems than it cures. Best to use the sealed for life bearings with rubber seals both sides and leave them alone.

Regards, Russell

[T Cro ®]

Regreasing bearings can cause more problems than it cures. Best to use the sealed for life bearings with rubber seals both sides and leave them alone.

Dat's my thoughts too... Buy quality name brand bearings that are not made in China...

[Dan in Grand Rapids]

I replace these babys every 25K.....

This is what I am going to do now. The front bearings died at 38,000 and now at 63,000 they are dead again. I replaced them with bearing from Murph, so I know they were quality replacements. I put new ones in the front (3rd pair for the bike) and new in the rear (2nd for the bike) this morning and it rides much better. More stable and smoother. I think I read somewhere that the 2nd generation concours had bearings that were too small for the weight of the bike on the front so they wear out quickly.

[enim57]

I think I read somewhere that the 2nd generation concours had bearings that were too small for the weight of the bike on the front so they wear out quickly.

That's correct the front bearings changed from '94 onwards.

Regards, Russell

[Furbo]

Why?  The stock bearings should be good for 75k if you do not grease them.A good pair of bearings for example Timkins will last even longer.
Grease them periodically and you  can get over 160k.

Well, others have clarified this - but I do alot of long pass baggin session in the mountains which is tough on a bearing, my 1st set failed at 26K, the bearings are so damned cheap from the local bearing house, and its 2 EZ a job - so I do it about every 25K. I get FAG bearings here usually.

[Boomer]

86-93 front wheel bearings are 6302/2RS
Inside Diameter:15mm
Outside Diameter:42mm
Width:13mm

94-06 front wheel bearings are 6203/2RS
Inside Diameter:17mm
Outside Diameter:40mm
Width:12mm

Do not get these confused. The 2RS bit means 2 rubber seals. The ZZ metal seal ones don't last as long.

The 94-06 bearings are a lot smaller and don't last anywhere near as long as the 86-93 ones.
Potentially you could get the 94-06 ones to last maybe 50k miles if ya never ride in the rain or in dusty areas.
Practically you will be replacing them after 25k miles.

The 86-93 bearings last a lot longer.
I have done over 80k miles on one set of SKF bearings and they were still in decent condition when I replaced them.
The OEMs last 50-60k miles.

[rcannon409]

Guys, on the "sealed" bearings, I have a question.  On the dirt bikes, I typically would get these new sealed bearings and open them up.  It was easy t do with an exacto knife.  Most often you woudl find almost no lube inside them.  I'd then wash them out and dry the bearing. Add in some decent waterproof grease, then snap the seal back.

The bearings lasted  a lot longer after doing this. I wonder if it woudl be a benefit to do with the streetbikes, too?

[datsaxman@hotmail.com]

Agreed.  I use a dental tool so I don't damage the seal.  Some folks think the dry ones work better, but I like to grease them every time they are apart. 

saxman

[enim57]

Guys, on the "sealed" bearings, I have a question.  On the dirt bikes, I typically would get these new sealed bearings and open them up.  It was easy t do with an exacto knife.  Most often you woudl find almost no lube inside them.  I'd then wash them out and dry the bearing. Add in some decent waterproof grease, then snap the seal back.

The bearings lasted  a lot longer after doing this. I wonder if it woudl be a benefit to do with the streetbikes, too?

Agreed.  I use a dental tool so I don't damage the seal.  Some folks think the dry ones work better, but I like to grease them every time they are apart. 

saxman

Regreasing bearings can cause more problems than it cures. Best to use the sealed for life bearings with rubber seals both sides and leave them alone.

Regards, Russell

Dat's my thoughts too... Buy quality name brand bearings that are not made in China...

[T Cro ®]

I will only use quality name brand rubber sealed bearings such as NTN, SKF and FAG in my wheels these are the very same bearing that I would install an an electric motor that once installed will perhaps run 24/7 service on board ship in any number of functions they will never be greased for the duration of their lifetime 5, 10, perhaps 15 or more years...

To each their own...

[kkja13]

I lucked into a method...
I was trying to hold a tapered punch in place against the bearing edge, with a large tapered cold chisel from the outer side. A couple of whacks later, of course it slipped off the bearing, wedging itself HARD against the cold chisel,  I smacked it again in anger,  AND STARTED THE BEARING OUT. Yippee! A few smacks later I was at the vise hammering the old bearing off the 2 wedged in tapered chisels. Worked well.

I then filed a rebate on the inside of the center spacer to allow room for a punch= easy removal next time. (I think credit  goes to man of blues for the rebate idea...)
Regards,
KenE

Replying to an old post, with good news.

After struggling with many tools attempting to drive the front bearing out, I was about to go to the parts store to borrow a tool to remove the bearing when I remembered this accidental method stumbled upon by KenE.

I wedged a chisel that was almost the same size as the hole and large screwdriver coming from the other direction.  With a few whacks on both ends they were locked together tightly.  Once they are wedged together it only took 4 or 5 good whacks on the screwdriver and the bearing was out!!!!  Thanks KenE!

Picture included of the wedged together tools.

[Furbo]

My original bearings were toast at 25K miles - now - at that time I was  living in Europe doing 100mph on the highway and alot of mountain riding. Checked them at 50K....yep, done. At 70K now and gonna replace next time I get tires. They're cheap (enough) at the bearing house and the cost of replacing one that's good if far less than the cost of dealing with a failure......so.