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How do you access the light bulbs to replace the burned out ones in the instrument cluster?
Does anyone have a PDF for the owner manual for a 1994 C10?
Or can you tell me of a legitimate website where I can buy an actual manual?
email: kcguitar@yahoo.com
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It's relatively easy, but takes a long time. In a nutshell, remove the cluster.
Remove windscreen.
Remove side fairings (the parts with the dash pockets). Three screws inside each locking cover, and two along each side.
Remove dash cover. One screw at the top (only accessible by removing the windscreen), and two electrical plugs/sockets for the clock. Remove IP cover.
Remove speedo cable at the instrument cluster (fairly easy to do now).
Disconnect two electrical plugs/sockets on the left side that feed the instrument cluster.
Remove two bolts (10mm hex) that hold the cluster to the sub frame, remove cluster to the bench.
The bulbs are held in rubber 'push in' thingies (tech term) on the back of the cluster. Turn signal, oil, neutral, and general lighting all look the same. And they all take the same bulb.
When re-installing the windscreen, take note the two top screws (each side) are shorter than the others.
Rick
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thank you, everyone!
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Just a suggestion, while you are in there, replace all of the bulbs.
Iff'n you wanna get fancy, change to LED. I like mine.
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That doesn't sound too bad for surgery.
If I remember, isn't it possible to buy different color bulbs to get the color you want?
Anyone know what color bulbs look/work best?
How about the clock (1987), I don't recall for sure but I think that bulb is replaceable too?
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Quote
If I remember, isn't it possible to buy different color bulbs to get the color you want?
Yup, I used blue LED for lighting. I used the singles as I commute in the dark in the a.m. I didn't want them too bright. The trip odometers are difficult to see, but every thing else works well. see pics in earlier post.QuoteAnyone know what color bulbs look/work best?
Whatever floats yer boat. Red is supposed to be better for night vision. I like my blue ones.QuoteHow about the clock (1987), I don't recall for sure but I think that bulb is replaceable too?
Yes.
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Here is a pictures of my panel lights after replacing all the bulbs with led's
I got all the bulbs from eBay
I got a set of blue lights for the main panel and 2 yellow lights for flashers, and red. Very cheap and easy to do.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220988440903?var=520076579221&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2862wt_1167
Got these for my clock. Looks great and in green there easy on the eyes
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330561805553?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_4981wt_1163
I did the install when I removed the front fairing. At first I thought it would be a difficult and time consuming process, but if you follow the manual it is easy.
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As far as finding an owners manual, the best deal is at the dealer. Where I saw them for about $35.00 on ebay the dealer got a new one for under $20.00. I got one for my 86 a couple years ago, so they should have your vintage available too.
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It's relatively easy, but takes a long time. In a nutshell, remove the cluster.
Remove windscreen.
Remove side fairings (the parts with the dash pockets). Three screws inside each locking cover, and two along each side.
Remove dash cover. One screw at the top (only accessible by removing the windscreen), and two electrical plugs/sockets for the clock. Remove IP cover.
Remove speedo cable at the instrument cluster (fairly easy to do now).
Disconnect two electrical plugs/sockets on the left side that feed the instrument cluster.
Remove two bolts (10mm hex) that hold the cluster to the sub frame, remove cluster to the bench.
The bulbs are held in rubber 'push in' thingies (tech term) on the back of the cluster. Turn signal, oil, neutral, and general lighting all look the same. And they all take the same bulb.
When re-installing the windscreen, take note the two top screws (each side) are shorter than the others.
Rick
I did not remove the speedometer cable at all. There was no need for that, not sure if it is different for my 95 bike but it did not get in the way at all for me.
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I did not remove the speedometer cable at all. There was no need for that, not sure if it is different for my 95 bike but it did not get in the way at all for me.
This was likely to make the task at hand kitchen table easy; or better yet sitting down in front of the TV with a gin & tonic easy!
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Just a suggestion, while you are in there, replace all of the bulbs.
Iff'n you wanna get fancy, change to LED. I like mine.
+1 on LEDs
Put blue ones on my C-10. Matches the bike but the glow at night is very easy on the eyes too.
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Hi Newbie here. It looks like all are 194, but Mikey, do you remember how many LED's are on your blue bulbs ?
thanks
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Here is what I posted in the past but couldn't find...
Be careful which LED bulb version you get. You need an LED that spreads the light out into the dash channel as it was designed for, meaning multiple LEDs on each bulb. If not the visible light will be lower making the gauges hard to see. You will need 5 of the WLED-GX (4 dash and neutral). "X" is whatever color you choose. You will then need one blue, two amber, and a white if you have an aux light device (early models). Check you own bulb count to make sure. Be sure to order this bulb style as it spreads the light out and doesn't just send out a beam. The clock bulb is 74-GHP (mini wedge base in green) if you want to change it (I did). Bergman was the original one to find and test these and then passed it to me when I upgraded my dash. I used the green version of the WLED-G5 (for the green lights, 5 of them to include nuetral) and it is nice and bright, but not annoying. I also ordered a red, blue, warm-white, and two ambers. I even replaced the clock bulb with a green 74-xHP wedge Base LED Bulb. Here are the links:
a. dash bulbs: http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-led-wide-angle-wedge-base/199/
b. clock bulb: http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/74-led-bulb-1-smd-led-wedge-base/227/
Back on the old forum, there were even discussions of bulb colors related to darkness and your eyes adjusting to it. Green is the best gauge color because it does not cause your pupil to close down as much so they can re-adjust to the road in front of you quicker. White is about the worst. Just food for thought.
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They have arrived and on today's To Do List....
From a posting elsewhere:
OK....... This information will probably age quickly, but here goes.... The 'Dash' lights, both White(for the indicators) and Green(for the gauges) were acquired on Ebay. Search for "T10 194 168 W5W Wedge 5050 5 SMD LED". A package of 10(each) out of China for $4.49 with free shipping - Total $8.98. Then I went to superbrightleds.com and ordered 2 '74-GHP' (G for Green) for the Clock - $7.97 shipped. 22 LEDS for $16.87 - 2 bikes worth at $8.44 for each bike so cozy up with a friend.
Stephen
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The finished product using Green for the Gauges / Clock, and White for the Indicators
Stephen
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Shouldn't you be using white LEDs behind the colored lenses of the neutral & turn signal indicator lights?
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Kwel, the Mobil horse is hanging onto my non avitar, what's up with that?
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Shouldn't you be using white LEDs behind the colored lenses of the neutral & turn signal indicator lights?
White is behind the indicators - Green behind the gauges and clock. (Modified my picture post)
Stephen
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Shouldn't you be using white LEDs behind the colored lenses of the neutral & turn signal indicator lights?
Ideally, you should use an LED that is the same color as the lens.