It's relatively easy, but takes a long time. In a nutshell, remove the cluster.
Remove windscreen.
Remove side fairings (the parts with the dash pockets). Three screws inside each locking cover, and two along each side.
Remove dash cover. One screw at the top (only accessible by removing the windscreen), and two electrical plugs/sockets for the clock. Remove IP cover.
Remove speedo cable at the instrument cluster (fairly easy to do now).
Disconnect two electrical plugs/sockets on the left side that feed the instrument cluster.
Remove two bolts (10mm hex) that hold the cluster to the sub frame, remove cluster to the bench.
The bulbs are held in rubber 'push in' thingies (tech term) on the back of the cluster. Turn signal, oil, neutral, and general lighting all look the same. And they all take the same bulb.
When re-installing the windscreen, take note the two top screws (each side) are shorter than the others.
Rick