Hey gang, it's super late, but want your input on a couple of issues. And have some comments.
1. When starting bike for the first time (60ºF), no fast-idle at all. Engine stalled the first time. It started the second, but barely held on at around 700 rpm. Once hot, idle was too high, so adjusted it at a restaurant nearby. When I got out, no fast-idle either (around 900 rpm). Now I removed the battery to install a battery charger pigtail, but does disconnecting the battery have anything to do with that? At what rpm do older C14s fast-idle at? By the way, throttle had waaay too much free play, so adjusted it properly. But doubt it has anything to do with fast-idle IMO.
2. I think now I know why 2015s weigh 2 more pounds. They all have a charcoal canister. Check out the pic of my tank, and please let me know if older bikes have those hoses. Also took pic of vacuum routing under the seat.
3. Where the heck do you guys put your owner's manual? Read that there was a lot of space under the seat, but there's NONE on my bike. I also have to say it's a PITA to install the seat. There're 2 'hooks' in the middle of the seat that are very hard to push under that stupid bar. And worst of all, that bar (with a harness inside) is not closed off where the hooks go, so they just grab in the middle, and the seat is bowed in the middle, and the rear is very hard to latch. Didn't figure it out until I flattened the rear plate, and couldn't install it. Had to bend it again, but it was bent too much before, so now it's perfect. But still a PITA, since you basically have to bend the seat in the middle to latch those middle bars, then insert the rear tab in its place. Maybe the seat wasn't installed properly when I rode the bike, since I couldn't reach the ground nearly as good as when I tried the black 2015 at the other dealer. We'll see tomorrow.
4. Want to order the CopperDawg sport screen right away, but there's no paint code anywhere on the bike. Pat guessed the color was 'Candy Lime Green' (used on 2012 ZX10, I think), and that's exactly what the Kawasaki site says. Is it safe to assume that's the right color? Don't want to order the screen and the wrong color shows up. Maybe some of you know where the paint code is (it's not on the VIN label).
5. Has anybody installed LED turn-signals on your Connie without having to pierce/splice the factory wiring for a load-resistor? I'd like to do at least the rear (LED tail/brake light already), but would like all 4 if possible.
That's it for now folks. I attached a few pics of my fully debadged/destickered/dereflectorized bike, for proof it's mine ;D.
I wonder if dealers these days are still installing the battery backwards? The positive terminal should be facing out. Not that this has anything to do with the OP issues, I was just wondering.
The battery was installed fine, but it's removed now due to installing a battery charger pigtail. Tech rounded one of the metal battery cover bolts, and all 3 grommets were all messed up. Cleaned all that up. Oh, and '-' cable was barely tight. And '+' just a hair more. After I'm done, it'll be the better test. I'll report results.
Hey, have some 'plugs' missing (pic attached). Do other bikes have them? Told dealer I want them ordered, along with the stripped bolt for the battery cover.
The C14 *hates* those connections not being tight. That probably explains your issue and I bet you have no more problem now.That was the case indeed. Reinstalled battery with all connections tight, fully charged it, set TPS with kill switch in both on and off positions, and it fired up instantly... and at high idle (1,300 rpm). AWESOME! Don't know what did the trick, but I'm a happy guy ;D. Also adjusted the headlights, which were dangerously low (could only see potholes in front of me yesterday). Forgot it had adjusters, but it's better to mess with them when not riding anyway (and that's what I just did now). Ordered CopperDawg screen, but he needs to send me a color sample first due to being the first green he'll make; oh well, will have to be patient with that one. Ordered Throttlemeisters and grip puppies. Will order the TBR black-series as soon as I get an invoice to include their quietest dB insert (P1X). Need to order the PAIR block-off plates too, but need to investigate what's the deal with the EVAP crap my bike now has (like only CA bikes did before), and make sure it's not going to interfere. Couldn't find anywhere how to get to the engine to remove all the PAIR crap. With the P1X insert, might not even need to block them off, and might leave it alone. What really want to find is just the frame for a radiator cover, to install fiberglass screening, rather than the metal crap most have. Don't want both since I suspect airflow issues. With just the screen, never had a single issue, and it gets hot here in TX. That's my update for today. Have a great evening folks.
That was the case indeed. Reinstalled battery with all connections tight, fully charged it, set TPS with kill switch in both on and off positions, and it fired up instantly... and at high idle (1,300 rpm). AWESOME! Don't know what did the trick, but I'm a happy guy ;D.
Also adjusted the headlights, which were dangerously low (could only see potholes in front of me yesterday).
Forgot it had adjusters, but it's better to mess with them when not riding anyway (and that's what I just did now).
but need to investigate what's the deal with the EVAP crap my bike now has (like only CA bikes did before), and make sure it's not going to interfere.
Couldn't find anywhere how to get to the engine to remove all the PAIR crap.
Set tire pressures at 40/42, and seems to be perfect.
Disabled the flashing 'alarm',
set the clock, set brake linking to 'solo', and it's ready to go anywhere. What a great machine. Glad I decided to get the Connie instead of the FJR or K1600GT.
Thank you for all the comment guys. First, bike is NOT a CA; was bought in NM from their allocation. Due to new emissions requirements, all 2015s apparently have that CA crap now (just like the cars). Oh well. And I said that separately. I know it has nothing to do with the fast-idle problem.
I want to hear more about the flashing alarm.
MY 2014 has a light that flashes continuously after I shut the bike down.
I thought I had done something wrong and went to Kawasaki (several shops) to ask about it.
NONE knew the answer, but eventually 1 guy said it was supposed to do that....
Had no reason why it was flashing....
Does anyone know "what" it is indicating?
Ride safe, Ted
"PAIR"?
Merely that there is power to the bike (the main battery). It will shut down automatically after 24 hours with the bike untouched. You can also set the bike to not display that light at all.
As someone already said, it is in your owner's manual.
I dislike the lack of a handle for the center stand. The passenger grab handle is just too far backward to help; at least in my case.
MY 2014 has a light that flashes continuously after I shut the bike down.Hey Ted, PM you on how to disable it if you want :). Also posted that on another thread (thought it was here, but not).
Hey Ted, PM you on how to disable it if you want :). Also posted that on another thread (thought it was here, but not).
FartyMarty, your method is exactly what I do. I'm 5'10", but only 155#. The problem is the C14 dooesn't have a proper 'grab handle', so Kawi designated the passenger grab bar. But it's too far rearward to help putting enough pressure on the centerstand (you have to be on top of it), and if I grab the pasenger handle I have to move to the right, and can't put enough foot pressure on the stand with my leg sideways. But as I said, it was just a comment. I can put it on the stand just fine, but have to grab under the passenger peg with the bags on. And now that it has no bags (the way I ride most of the time), the bag mount is the perfect handle, so perfect solution for 95%+ of the time. Somebody posted a handy grab handle accessory, but I don' t need it. Otherwise, I'd buy it. Another thing is this bike has to be raised quite a bit more than others. I can put both the GL1800 and BMW K1600GT on their centerstands without much effort at all, and are way heavier. This one requires more effort, but still can do it just fine. A good incentive to keep this 53-yr-old body in good shape ;D. Thank you for the tips.
just hit the up or down button when you shut it off.....it will then stay.That's great news; thanks. So just to be clear, turn ignition OFF, THEN immediately thereafter hit the switch either UP or DOWN, or simultaneously? That way we can work on the bike without having to have the ignition ON all the time, like the manual says to remove the front side fairing pieces, where a push-pin resides under the windscreen. Thanks again.
Two questions: Which indoor cover would you guys recommend that fit? Looked at the OEM and it's $160, and for outdoor use. Want something just for dust protection. Saw a ton on eBay, many for $17 shipped... which assume are crap. Want the cheapest possible, but NICE; that's why I'm looking for testimonials. And just a dust cover; not the bulky, heavy outdoor type. Thank you.
The '08 KLR is also candy lime green. So is the '04 meanstreak.For some reason, the one I saw looked very different. But knowing now it was an '08, probably lots of sun fade over the years. If it was 'Candy Lime Green', then it should be the exact identical color/process of my bike IMO. Unless Patrick (CopperDawg) was wrong that this color is a tri-coat, it's surprising Kawi used it on the affordable KLR. Maybe that's why it hasn't been used again. At any rate, I'm not happy about that fact, since most companies don't make touch-up paint for those colors. Need to find out if Kawi does, as I'm surely going to get rock chips over the years, especially here in the desert. Take care.
For a dust cover I use a good ol' twin sheet we haven't used in a looong time. Ain't she a byoot? The price is right (free).
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx321/mr_beeps/IMG_2222a_zpse920ea60.jpg)
(http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx321/mr_beeps/IMG_2217a_zpsa1fbae7e.jpg)
Kawasaki uses candy lime on many of it's bikes.Not disappointed of that at all buddy; not that kind of guy. I'm disappointed it's a TRI-COAT color, since it's very hard to match. And to obtain a ONE-STEP touch-up paint. Thank you for that link, but it's not what I'm looking for. Did you notice the 'requires base coat #1225' in bold, red letters? Useless for touch-ups.
Sorry to disappoint you, but Kawasaki used That color on many bikes.
Kawasaki uses candy lime on many of it's bikes.
For some reason, the one I saw looked very different. But knowing now it was an '08, probably lots of sun fade over the years. If it was 'Candy Lime Green', then it should be the exact identical color/process of my bike IMO.
Thank you for that link, but it's not what I'm looking for. Did you notice the 'requires base coat #1225' in bold, red letters? Useless for touch-ups.
Actually, that link IS what you're looking for if you want to buy touch-up paint for your bike.Yeah, I know. But it's absolutely useless for rock chips and such. I tried it before on a car, and looked awful. Better than white primer, but not even close. The 'base' coat alone would fill the chip. Then you need to apply the top coat. And then a tinted clear. Can't do that on a freaking chip. The only solution is to just apply the top coat, but it definitely wouldn't match the paint. But if I get a chip that bothers me, and this bike also has a white or black primer, will reluctantly buy it so it looks better than white or black. Thanks again for your help.
what color is the rear shock and spring on your '15?... black and silver respectively as in previous years or something different?Happy to help. The shock is dark gray, and the spring dark metallic (flaky) gray. That doesn't necessarily mean they're different. They could be the same, but the preload mechanism definitely changed. Remember the preload setting for 2014 is 13 out of 28 'clicks'. My 2015 is 10 out of 24 clicks. So it could be that the preload just ramps up quicker, since if you get both ratios, are almost the same. The only way to find out for sure would be knowing the spring ratio. Is there a way to know that? Since the preload changed, the p/n probably changed too, but that doesn't mean the shock and spring did. Hope this helps a little.
Hope this helps a little.
Another touch up option is using The Model company, Tamiya TS52 spray paint. Its very close. Spray some on a piece of paper, then find a small brush. Its way easier than the three bottle system everyone else has.Awesome find. I already ordered one. I always prefer spray paint, and do what you suggested for small chips. And if you want to paint a small part or a larger touch-up, you can do it. Many thanks.
Another touch up option is using The Model company, Tamiya ts52 spray paint. Its very close, fi nto identical. Spray some on a piece of paper, then find a small brush. Its way easier thna the three bottle system everyone else has.
Hey gang, few questions, if you can help:
1. Want to buy tank/fairing knee protectors, but prefer clear.
I have this tank protection on my C14 https://thetankslapper.biz/oc/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_69&product_id=154 I have not installed all of this on my bike yet. I am thinking of getting some pin stripping first.
Granted the headlight protection is somewhat difficult to install, but it is very nice once it is on. They also have a kit that has saddle bag protection.
After those 3 items, I'll be pretty much done with the bike
So you think :) For example- have seen no mention of removal/disable of secondary butterflies...
Or a seat, or exhaust, cruise control, GPS, tires.
After those 3 items, I'll be pretty much done with the bike,
YUP!....Cruise Control is a must have for me....if you do any traveling, it sure is nice.
Rem
I put the Tankslapper film kit on my tank and fairing back when I first bought my bike. It works ok but offers zero grip for your knees. I now have the Techspec kit on the tank with the Tankslapper film on the bags.I'm on the same boat. I don't really want just protection, but something that grips. May I ask which TechSpec kit you have? I'm more inclined to the thinner High-Fusion, but don't know how it grips compared to the SnakeSkin. Thx.
For a fender extender, I have the one from Murph. It is not a smooth one like your asking about, but it installs without drilling. You just need ABS cement and some clamps.May I ask you if you've seen the Pyramid FendaExtenda and MotorcycleLarry (blueone) extender? The Pyramid will look the best, but it's just too short, so it's out of consideration. But between the 2 remaining, which do you rank better overall? Hopefully you have seen the other one by now, and compare it to yours. And also thank you for the clear tank protection you linked, but wanted plain, not with all that crap in there ;D. Take care.
I'll probably go with Valvoline motorcycle-specific 10/40, since I've only seen Mobil1 in 20/50.There is Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W40 full synthetic specifically for motorcycle engines. Will not damage the wet clutch. Check autozone or cycle gear. That's what I use. For the final drive I use Mobil 1 75W90. Ride safe!
I'd basically render traction-control useless, since that's how the ECU reduces power the most.
would also think about removing the secondary butterflies, but hope not. I'd basically render traction-control useless, since that's how the ECU reduces power the most.
Twowhwwladict, I'm interested in a GPS mount. I saw one in a photo that holds the GPS low and in the center of the bars.\
What type do you have?
Ride safe, Ted
whoahhhhhhhhhhh i gotaa apppoligizes...
man, gooodfunkinfunk.... I AM funkenstiein, and follow the old Dr, Funkenestiein... wowwwwwwowwooo
nicce....
There is Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W40 full synthetic specifically for motorcycle engines. Will not damage the wet clutch. Check autozone or cycle gear. That's what I use. For the final drive I use Mobil 1 75W90. Ride safe!
A lot of us use this oil. Sometimes you can get a great price on it at Autozone and the like. Check Amazon too.
I would not go to the 75/140 gear lube.Thank you. Will put 75/90 then. It's a little frustrating the owner's manual doesn't have that info, but it sounds about right. That reminds me need to buy a service manual. Will buy it along with the 2014 windscreen parts I need for the CopperDawg screen, and a couple of oil filters. Enjoy the rest of your weekend everybody.
Hey, on an unrelated subject, my bike has a paltry 1 (index) finger clearance between the front wheel and the chin spoiler. Is that normal on older bikes? I ask because I don't think Motorcycle Larry's long fender extender is going to clear. Might end up with the Pyramid FendaExtenda. Or maybe ProjektD's slightly longer one. With that little gap, I think stones are mostly going to hit the chin bar, and not go above it. I might have to take the Big Bend trip without that and radiator grille, and when I'm back, I'd know for sure what needs protection ;D. Thx.
I found one that is as close as you could professionally mix up. Heres a link on Amazoon.com...http://www.amazon.com/Sinful-Colors-Professional-Polish-946/dp/B009ZNDK00 (http://www.amazon.com/Sinful-Colors-Professional-Polish-946/dp/B009ZNDK00) Its made by Sinful Colors and the name is "happy ending " number 946.Hey man, I already bought the spray can you suggested on post #49, but haven't tried it (maybe I need to, just to make sure it matches before I actually need it). That nail polish is pretty darn close indeed. Now we have 2 choices ;). Thank you for sharing that.
Hey man, I already bought the spray can you suggested on post #49, but haven't tried it (maybe I need to, just to make sure it matches before I actually need it). That nail polish is pretty darn close indeed. Now we have 2 choices ;). Thank you for sharing that.
Will have to wait weeks for my custom radiator grille frame (I'll install fiberglass screening, instead of the metal grille) and fender extender, and don't want to take the bike on a trip without those 2 things. Plus CopperDawg sport screen is also going to take weeks due to the new green color. So have nothing to report. Will probably put some more local miles to at least get to 300 (now 74). Enjoy the rest of your weekend folks.
How is the fiberglass screen gonna protect your radiator from taking a hit?Soft rocks?
Soft rocks?
How is the fiberglass screen gonna protect your radiator from taking a hit?It's pretty darn tough man. So far, in over 2 decades of protecting every car and bike, never a hole in it. Removing bug carcasses is a breeze with a tooth brush (and even easier with water, but I avoid spraying my bikes with water unless caught in rain and a mess). Besides, on the bike, you're very unlikely to get hit by a rock... although it's certainly possible. The main reason is to protect radiator from bugs (yes, those suckers definitely bend the fins), but also for the piece of mind of knowing with 99%+ probability I'm not going to get stranded by a pierced radiator. Keep in mind ANY radiator cover has bigger holes (and wider metal) than the small fiberglass screening, so chances of a small rock going cleanly thru them is larger than with my approach. But as long as you have something, it's better than nothing. And again, yet another case of to each his own ;D. Finally, with all the sports cars I've owned which gives you the precise coolant temperature (not buffered, like most cars and bikes), never ran any hotter, even in the intense TX summer heat. Attached are photos of what I had to do with my newest toy (now I have TWO 2015 GTRs 8)), since it's a royal PITA to remove the bumper to do it from behind the grille. I could remove the upper one, but not the lower one. Spent some time with the cutting, but ended up perfect. And nothing gets past the bumper. Just have to be careful with the safety wire on the lower one; that's why I like doing it from the inside, where running a toothbrush doesn't affect anything (I just have to do it carefully).
It's pretty darn tough man. So far, in over 2 decades of protecting every car and bike, never a hole in it. Removing bug carcasses is a breeze with a tooth brush (and even easier with water, but I avoid spraying my bikes with water unless caught in rain and a mess). Besides, on the bike, you're very unlikely to get hit by a rock... although it's certainly possible. The main reason is to protect radiator from bugs (yes, those suckers definitely bend the fins), but also for the piece of mind of knowing with 99%+ probability I'm not going to get stranded by a pierced radiator. Keep in mind ANY radiator cover has bigger holes (and wider metal) than the small fiberglass screening, so chances of a small rock going cleanly thru them is larger than with my approach. But as long as you have something, it's better than nothing. And again, yet another case of to each his own ;D. Finally, with all the sports cars I've owned which gives you the precise coolant temperature (not buffered, like most cars and bikes), never ran any hotter, even in the intense TX summer heat. Attached are photos of what I had to do with my newest toy (now I have TWO 2015 GTRs 8)), since it's a royal PITA to remove the bumper to do it from behind the grille. I could remove the upper one, but not the lower one. Spent some time with the cutting, but ended up perfect. And nothing gets past the bumper. Just have to be careful with the safety wire on the lower one; that's why I like doing it from the inside, where running a toothbrush doesn't affect anything (I just have to do it carefully).
It's pretty darn tough man. So far, in over 2 decades of protecting every car and bike, never a hole in it. Removing bug carcasses is a breeze with a tooth brush (and even easier with water, but I avoid spraying my bikes with water unless caught in rain and a mess). Besides, on the bike, you're very unlikely to get hit by a rock... although it's certainly possible. The main reason is to protect radiator from bugs (yes, those suckers definitely bend the fins), but also for the piece of mind of knowing with 99%+ probability I'm not going to get stranded by a pierced radiator. Keep in mind ANY radiator cover has bigger holes (and wider metal) than the small fiberglass screening, so chances of a small rock going cleanly thru them is larger than with my approach. But as long as you have something, it's better than nothing. And again, yet another case of to each his own ;D. Finally, with all the sports cars I've owned which gives you the precise coolant temperature (not buffered, like most cars and bikes), never ran any hotter, even in the intense TX summer heat. Attached are photos of what I had to do with my newest toy (now I have TWO 2015 GTRs 8)), since it's a royal PITA to remove the bumper to do it from behind the grille. I could remove the upper one, but not the lower one. Spent some time with the cutting, but ended up perfect. And nothing gets past the bumper. Just have to be careful with the safety wire on the lower one; that's why I like doing it from the inside, where running a toothbrush doesn't affect anything (I just have to do it carefully).
I heard what you said and understand the logic behind your thought process, however, wouldn't it be better to have BOTH the metal AND the fiberglass ? Just curious. ::)
>93,000 miles, many off them long LONG gravel roads at speed, and I've never bought any type of radiator protector products. No issues to report ;DThat's because you're always in the lead ;).
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/X%20country%20trippin/20110708-DSC_1451.jpg)
I hate to burst your bubble but I can say with 99%+ probability that if your radiator takes a hit from a rock that's large enough to cause a hole that your fiberglass screen isn't going to stop itAside from your sarcasm on your last statement, make it 100% in the one above. But that also goes for whatever grille you have. And if a rock is large enough, it'd wipe you and your bike out as well ;). We're talking REASONABLE protection. So far haven't had a problem in over 2 decades, but it can obviously happen. Having said the above, I also NEVER follow people too close, especially on gravelly roads; some common sense goes a long way to avoid such potential issues. You never know when an idiot wants to pass you on such roads, peltering your car/bike with stones; that's why I always prefer to ride all the way back. Oh, and you don't want a grille AND fiberglass screening; too much restriction. And yes, any aftermarket grille will be more flow-restricting than fiberglass screening. And it doesn't prevent bugs from going into your radiator... and you can't brush them off either. I like when bikes have large, plastic grilles, because I simply attach the screening to it. But the Kawi doesn't have any. So ordered a frame only (no logo, black powdercoated, no laser holes, no grille) from ProjektD, but will have to make in China until their next batch, arriving middle of March. I ordered their $10 fender extender, since it's smooth like the Pyramid FendaExtenda, but also smooth ABS. I didn't like the crinkly finish of the longer MotorcycleLarry.com one, so that's the best option. With the tire being so close to the chin spoiler, I don't think pebbles from the front tire would hit anywhere above the spoiler. On my 2015, the tire only clears the spoiler by an index finger. But it will surely help if I catch rain. However, I see myself having to 'plasti-dip' the painted area behind the front wheel eventually; no fender extender can save it from that. Have a good one folks.
....any specific numbers given for the new gear ratio for 1st ......?
Primary Reduction Ratio 1.556 (84/54)
Final Reduction Ratio 2.036 (14/22 × 32/10)
Overall Drive Ratio
3.402 (Top gear)
Gear Ratio:
1st 3.538 (46/13)
2nd 2.412 (41/17)
3rd 1.900 (38/20)
4th 1.545 (34/22)
5th 1.292 (31/24)
6th 1.074 (29/27)
Primary Reduction Ratio 1.556 (84/54)
Final Reduction Ratio 2.036 (14/22 × 32/10)
Overall Drive Ratio 3.402 @Top gear
Gear Ratio:
1st 3.333 (50/15)
2nd 2.412 (41/17)
3rd 1.900 (38/20)
4th 1.545 (34/22)
5th 1.292 (31/24)
6th 1.074 (29/27)
Do you recall if there was ever any specific numbers given for the new gear ratio for 1st in any of the literature you got with your new bike?Nothing Pilgrim, and I read the entire manual. And service manual is not out yet, as far as I know. Where did you get the info Fartymarty? I bet from the press introduction, right? The only thing I can tell you is the difference is minimal. Didn't feel any from a 2014 bike to mine. Remember reading it was done for fully-loaded bikes (2-up with luggage). I just got a 2015 because the 2 'new' 2014 bikes I attempted to buy supposedly from the crate, both had been serviced long ago, and had test-ride miles on them, along with scratches/scuffs everywhere. The changes were very few, and most can be upgraded easily. What makes the 2015 more attractive is its reduction in price, rather than a typical increase. The bad news is it's only available in black and green. Got the green to please the wife (anything but black... for my safety), but it sure as hell wasn't at the top of my list ;D.
:popcorn: Gotta love it when a thread goes south....:rotflmao:
Nothing Pilgrim, and I read the entire manual. Where did you get the info Fartymarty? I bet from the press introduction, right?'jc, reread manual, and/or notice what references I quoted in my previous post. ;D
Well, fighting for my life with an acute pneumonia and the rare hairy-cell leukemia diagnosis (cause unknown) after being healthy as a horse all of my 53 years. But can't wait to get out of the freaking hospital, get on with chemo, and ride again.
I thought you weren't posting, because you were on he road to Big Bend.Hey Ted, that was exactly the plan buddy. He he. But I'm glad this thing hit me a day before leaving. Acute anemia is getting out of the dangerous stage, and hoping a couple more days does the same for the interstatial pneumonia, so I can go home and start the new fight there. So yes, my Connie sits with 66 miles on the clock waiting to stretch its legs. Soon my brothers. Soon 8). Thank you for all the good wishes gang; I'll beat this thing for sure. And the odds are pretty good too.
Thanks buddy. You need both manuals to catch the difference ;). Well, fighting for my life with an acute pneumonia and the rare hairy-cell leukemia diagnosis (cause unknown) after being healthy as a horse all of my 53 years. But can't wait to get out of the freaking hospital, get on with chemo, and ride again. Hope ALL of you are having a better weekend than me. Ha ha. Have a good one.
If you want, I'll be happy to come up there and help out.Yeah, right! Ha ha. Getting chemo in a few moments, even with my weakened state, but time is of the essence. Hope to go home tomorrow. Chemo is cumulative, so I'll get worse as time passes, therefore, other than getting home tomorrow, riding my bike 10 miles, filling up the tank, and stabilizing the fuel, will have to put it away for at least 2 months. No sense risking a crash and bleeding to death with no platelets. Should be fully well by the national, so looking forward to meeting you folks. It's a 6-week treatment once a week for 2 hours (intravenously), then 4-1/2 months of rest, then another round of 6 and that's it. Wish me luck. I'll spend lots of time at home, especially as I get weaker, so will spend some time reading and posting. Will keep you posted. The good fortune is I work from home, and only 5 months of the year, and I'm basically done, so the next 7 are vacation, and will have lots of time to heal well. I'm a skinny guy, so hope I don't lose too much weight. This week in the ER put about 5 lb, so that was good. GET YOUR ANNUAL PHYSICALS, and any marginal results, dig deeper. Everybody missed my cancer, even as late as a week ago. No symptoms from the cancer at all. Only the second clinic found out after dealing with the pneumonia (which thought was a viral infection). Learn from my experience ;D.
buy a 'medic alert', or some crap like that. I remember seeing threads where to buy those things on BMW forums, but it's been a while. I think it's something you stick to the helmet, with a medical cross or something. I have a Shoei X-12 that also has red tabs to pull padding without having to remove helmet. Maybe next to those? Source where to buy and location where to stick it would be appreciated. Many thanks.
But searching finds some products similar to that concept: http://www.rescuefacts.com/ (http://www.rescuefacts.com/)That's EXACTLY what I was looking for; many thanks man. I'm not wearing a stinking bracelet or necklace; never had and never will (can't stand them). Ha ha. And I don't have a life-threatening condition requiring that IMO; it's only if I ever need a transfusion, blood needs to be irradiated. Will buy one of those things for each of my cars, and for the helmet. Problem solved. Thanks again for your great help.
it sounds like you are referring to these.Indeed, my friend. Didn't see your post. Those are stuck to the helmet, right? Aren't the ones posted by Maxtog look better? They seem to be attached by Velcro, therefore removable if you change helmets or something. And they also make them for the seatbelts on cars. The only thing I'm not sure is if they're going to bother me while wearing the helmet. If somebody has any experience with either one, please post. Those stick-ons might detach over time (and rain), I presume. Thank you all for your super help. Went to the doc today, and gave me encouraging news, making much better progress than expected, so am quite happy. Not nearly out of the woods of all the complications I have, but getting there. Once just the cancer, I'll beat the crap out of it. Ha ha.
Big favor. Hospital told me I could die of a blood transfusion if blood is not irradiated.
IMHO I might rethink the bracelet/necklace thing in case you are caught out in Bumdiddle, TN or somewhere where irradiated blood may not be readily available.
Irradiated blood reduces the chance of a transfusion reaction due to things like white blood cells from the donor. Pretty common practice with someone that has a compromised immune system.That's exactly what my wife read. I definitely have a compromised immune system now, but am not going anywhere until I get out of all the complications I have now. Haven't bought any of those tags because it's possible once healed, I don't need irradiated blood. Will ask the hematologist/oncologist on Monday, before my 2nd chemo treatment. Hope that's the case, so I'm back to being a normal person. Well, maybe I can't donate blood anymore since you never get in full remission with leukemia (for what I read). But will also ask the doc. Have so much crap and bills now that I'll get to that later; no rush ;). Not to mention our canceled trip to south america that will cost me thousands to cancel. Oh well. As long as I get my health back, I don't give a crap. Ha ha. Have a great weekend ahead gang.