Hello,

When I put the bike away earlier this year, I noticed that the left side rear light was not working. 

However, the brake light function works fine.  I had added the brake light interruptor in 2010 that has been working well.  Now that winter has set in, I am trying to work on repairs/updates while the weather has been so mild here in WI.

I have attached a few pictures of what I have to look at. 

I have taken the bulbs out and switched them back and forth.  The results are the same.

I would like to use LED bulbs instead but first I need to find/fix this issue with the left socket. Someone wrote that the interruptor won't work with LEDs. 

Any worthwhile help will get me to Arkansas for COG 2012 where I will compensate you appropriately. 

Starting look:

Wiring inside:

Flasher unit:

Wiring again:

Harness wires:

Video of operation:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pZ1JzZQ48SXozznr5r5Qgp4UFwuSecWVTI3rJXHGAYc?feat=directlink

Hello, Man;

Your video indicates that both brake and running lights are fine on the right side. I could not tell from the video if your license plate light is working but I will assume it is. You have brake lights on the left side but no running light. I'll take a guess the contact for the running lights in the left socket is corroded or otherwise damaged. Either that or you have a broken wire between that socket and the 3-wire plug (black, red, and black w/yellow). Start by inspecting the contacts. HTH.

Larry

Almost forgot. These are the LED brake lights I used http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=CAR&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2F115x-x3X1W.htm#photos. And yes, the Signal Dynamics website says that the standard BackOff module MAY not work with LED's.

I'll take a guess the contact for the running lights in the left socket is corroded or otherwise damaged. Either that or you have a broken wire between that socket and the 3-wire plug (black, red, and black w/yellow).

Yup, that is whats wrong. Brakes lights are fine. Your missing  12 volts to the driving light on the left. Get your meter out and find out why. Probably  corroded contact.

I tried the Back Off unit on my Connie about 5 years ago. It lasted about two months and quit working all together. At first I thought I had a wiring issue but when I took the Back Off unit off everything started working again. I threw mine away and got some Hyper Lights. They have worked perfect.

I tried the Back Off unit on my Connie about 5 years ago. It lasted about two months and quit working all together. At first I thought I had a wiring issue but when I took the Back Off unit off everything started working again.

My Back-Off has worked fine for several years.  Though it is wired to a set of LEDs, instead of the stock brake light.  (Which has been replaced with 1157 LED bulbs.)

I tried the Back Off unit on my Connie about 5 years ago. It lasted about two months and quit working all together. At first I thought I had a wiring issue but when I took the Back Off unit off everything started working again. I threw mine away and got some Hyper Lights. They have worked perfect.

I have had my BackOff XP for at least 4 years now and it is till going strong.

My Back-Off has worked fine for several years.  Though it is wired to a set of LEDs, instead of the stock brake light.  (Which has been replaced with 1157 LED bulbs.)

Thanks for the replies everyone.

D.M., do I understand you to say that the multimeter should read +12V across the connections in the socket?

O.J., where did you obtain your 1157's?  I'd like to try them out once I have this socket issue fixed.

Signed,
MNH

Man;
The socket is the ground. One contact is for the running lights and should have 12v between the socket and that pin when your running lights are on. The other contact is for the brake lights and should have 12v between the socket and that pin when the brakes are applied. HTH.

Larry

O.J., where did you obtain your 1157's?  I'd like to try them out once I have this socket issue fixed.

www.superbrightleds.com  I used the 115x-x24 bulbs on this page.  They have 18 bulbs pointed straight and 6 pointed out to fill the reflector in the brake light housing.  They ain't cheap at $7.49 each, but I've had them in there for 6 seasons with no problems.  Worth the extra $$ over buying cheap one.

They have some other awesome bulbs on that page, too.  You might want to browse a bit and try different ones than I did.  The tech has moved forward quite a bit in those last 6 years.  The ones I got are comparable brightness to stock bulbs, but there are plenty available now that are brighter.

If there is one thing I've learned about automotive lights over thirty years of farm equipment is CHECK THE GROUND.  99% of lighting problems are in the ground portion of the circuit.  If that socket is the ground it is probably where the socket grounds to the frame.

If there is one thing I've learned about automotive lights over thirty years of farm equipment is CHECK THE GROUND.  99% of lighting problems are in the ground portion of the circuit.  If that socket is the ground it is probably where the socket grounds to the frame.

I would agree except the brake light is working and it shares the same ground. I'll stick with my original diagnosis that the running light terminal is either damaged or corroded. If it is not then there is a broken wire between the terminal and the 3 wire plug.

:stupid: er, I mean  :iagree:

I offer myself up as per RangerJim's signoff: "No one is a TOTAL failure; they can always be used as a bad example."

Using two good replacement bulbs fixed my issue.  Not a socket issue at all because I used a bad bulb each time I checked sockets. The bad bulb worked on high but not low once compared with good bulbs.  Last night I went to AutoZone and bought 1157 bulbs for $5 and 1157R bulbs in red LED for $17.  What a difference using good bulbs makes! 

And I do have cell phone video that shows the LED lights blinking so I know that the BackOff device works with them too. 

I have taken the bulbs out and switched them back and forth.
 

Glad you got it sorted, Man.

Awhile back, I bought some LED bulbs, maybe 6 years ago, maybe the technology has changed since then but they were really DIM and you really could not see them unless you were DIRECTLY in back of the bike, I took them out and used the old fashoined bulbs since then. Not sure whats out there today.

I offer myself up as per RangerJim's signoff: "No one is a TOTAL failure; they can always be used as a bad example."

Using two good replacement bulbs fixed my issue.  Not a socket issue at all because I used a bad bulb each time I checked sockets. The bad bulb worked on high but not low once compared with good bulbs.  Last night I went to AutoZone and bought 1157 bulbs for $5 and 1157R bulbs in red LED for $17.  What a difference using good bulbs makes! 

And I do have cell phone video that shows the LED lights blinking so I know that the BackOff device works with them too. 

     My local auto store sells 1157 bulbs for $.83 each and Napa at $.99 each.  I almost choked when I saw 1157 bulbs at AutoZone for $2.50 each. You won't see me at AutoZone ever again !!

Awhile back, I bought some LED bulbs, maybe 6 years ago, maybe the technology has changed since then but they were really DIM

Yes, the technology has VASTLY improved in the last few years.  And it matters the type and quality of the LED you buy.  The taillights in my 06 are LEDs, purchased in 06, and they are exactly as bright as the standard bulbs they replaced.  And you can see them from an angle, too.  One of these days, I'll have a few extra bucks and I'll upgrade to a newer set of brighter LEDs, but since I have additional brake lights, it's not top of my list.

I have a good LED replacement bulb in my 3-D-cell Maglite.  It's brighter than the stock bulb, and projects just as well/far as stock.  And I can still focus the beam like the standard bulb.