Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => Accessories and Modifications - C10 => Topic started by: gtr1000 on June 14, 2011, 10:03:39 AM
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When it comes to bike electrics, I'm useless :-[
I've got my two new magnums (and relay) and want to wire them to the bike AND keep the two OEM horns, so four horns in total.
Can someone explain, in very simple terms, how I can achieve this - a diagram would also be nice.
If anyone has a few minutes to do a freehand sketch and access to a fax machine, please drop me a quick PM and I can let you have my fax #.
Many thanks
Paul OTP
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The horns on our bike are negative switched if i remember correctly.
If I was doing it I would take a hot (12+) from the bike and connect it to terminal 85, take a jumper from your negative on the OEM horn over to term 86. Now you need power for your aftermarkets. 12v+ from battery or aftermarket power rail. Connect it to term 30, the lead from term 87 will connect up to your new horns + side, ground the other.
I think, just thinking out loud
(http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/relayspst.jpg)
Edit: I forgot to mention to fuse the circuit accordingly
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Thanks for your input Chris. Reason for keeping the stock horns is to minimise taking the fairing apart - I really can't be arsed at the moment as all I want to do is ride.
If I can pick up the wires feeding the stock horns in the harness behind the headlamp, things might go a bit quicker.
Do you know off hand what color wires I'm looking for that feed the stock horns?
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I dont know the colors right off hand. I will be off in about an hour, I will check the manual if nobody beats me to it.
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Black with White stripe goes through the switch and is negative (-)
Brown with White stripe is the hot (+)
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Black with White stripe goes through the switch and is negative (-)
Brown with White stripe is the hot (+)
See, I was going to guess black w/yellow stripe. Thanks T...
So here is a recap: with this new found knowledge you should be able to run your blk w/wht wire to term 85, and the brn w/wht wire to term 86. This will provide power to the coil of your relay. The rest will remain the same.
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See, I was going to guess black w/yellow stripe. Thanks T...
Black with Yellow stripe is your negative (-) chassis/frame ground.
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Many, many thanks guys. Magnums here I come 8). Just got to try and find the wires behind the headlamp now.
Oh, I only bought em because they were on close out, $10 for the pair (new and original Stebel packaging) including relay and shipping :).
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Sorry guys, another question...............
The Stebel site says the TM80 Magnums draw 12 amps, so what size fuse should I use when connecting to terminal 30 (from the battery) on the relay?
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Sorry guys, another question...............
The Stebel site says the TM80 Magnums draw 12 amps, so what size fuse should I use when connecting to terminal 30 (from the battery) on the relay?
Is the 12 amps for one horn or for the both of them? I would fuse it with a 15 amp or 30 amp depending on your answer lol.
Good job on protecting the circuit before the relay. I have witnessed many people fuse after the relay. This is ok right up to the point that the contacts stick on the relay and your icecube melts down.
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12 amps for two horns Chris or 6 amps for one, taken from the Strebel catalogue http://www.stebel.it/public/stebel.pdf (http://www.stebel.it/public/stebel.pdf)
I'm gonna stick with a 15 amp fuse then :)
I've got everything apart - took instrument/gauge assembly off (after removing Rifle screen, disconnected speedo at wheel, two side storage covers), spliced into wires on stock left hand horn to give me the connections to 85 and 86 (plenty of space to work in with no instruments in place). Grounded the horns back to the -ve side of the battery and ran =ve from battery to #30 via fuse.
Wired everything up with Stebels on floor and pushed horn button ;D
Now have perforated ear drums :'( Wow, they're LOUD !!! Four is definately better than two ;)
Total time so far is 1/2 hour to get to stock horns and 1/2 hour to do wiring but still haven't figured out where to put the Magnums. Wiring will have to be tidied up, so I guess about 2.5 hours all in.
If anyone else is thinking of modding their horns and doesn't want to remove the fairing, this could be the way to go.
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Well, that was a nightmare...............
My guesstimate of 2.5 hours turned into more like 9 hours :-[.
Mounted horns inside fairing, then found I couldn't get the side storage panels back on. Then tried mounting inside fairing by the turn signals. Left side was fine, so bolted it in but I forgot that on the right side the clock encroaches into the spare space in the fairing.
Take 3 - made some small brackets and put the horns between the upper and lower triple trees between the forks. Success, got them mounted but then they caught the instrument housing on full lock. Moved them around a bit more and all was good until I relaised I couldn't get to the two spade connectors on each horn. :'(
More twisting of brackets and I got it right. Then put the instrument housing back on and found the clock wouldn't hold it's time. Checked all wires with meter and all Ok. Onto the forum and deduced the accessory fuse had blown - another wasted hour. :'( :'(
With the electrics out of the way and the horns working, time to put all the plastic back on. Now find that my Rifle base don't line up. Slacken off all bolts in plastic and try again. :'( :'( :'(
All's now back together. Would I do it again on another C-10? Yes, and in about half the time :-[
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Nice job, the easiest projects always take the longest