Danged petcock, hydrolock

[DaveO430]

Got the connie all together and was going to take it down to the station and fll it with gas and ride it to work tomorrow. Put the key in, turned it on and hit the button and no go. I knew immediately what was wrong so I pulled the plugs and cranked the gas out of the cylinders. Put the plugs back in and fired it up and then oil and gas mix came gushing out of the air box. Drained the oil, was a lot in there, at least a gallon of gas with the oil so it got a good flushing out. I checked the petcock and it didn't shut off at all. Took it apart and found corrosion on the seat so I cleaned it up and it seems to work but now I don't trust it.
What would you guys do? Is there a manual alternative?

[Badbogie]

There is a Bergman conversion to manual and also some aftermarket petcocks that will work.  Someone else will chime in, I'm sure.  I have an old Bergman I bought on Ebay that I never used and Murph's carries new  ones.  Really the float valves aren't working right and need to be fixed. Installing overflow tubes in your carb bowls will eliminate the hydrolock problem for good.  PM me if you want my old conversion with a used petcock for the price of postage.

[DaveO430]

Bergman, whodathunkit?  I am not pulling those %$#@*&^* carbs off this beast again The needle valves were sealing off fine
when I did have them off, probably a tiny particle of something got in one, actually it was #2.

[Centex]

I suspect that you already know all this stuff, but since you asked ...

I like my Pingel manual petcock but I also have SISF's overflow tubes as backup (yep, pull those danged carbs again for that one).

Pingel part numbers, maybe lost in the crash:

Fuel Valve 6211-CH
Adapter Plate A1702C (mates perfect to the Connie bolt holes and tank port - totally OEM appearing solution in chrome, includes all gaskets, bolts and sealer)

You must file the oval tank-port very slightly to clear the 3/8" diameter pick-up and screen.  I did this using out-strokes only and with my shop-vac blowing into the tank-fill to ensure no metal in the tank.  This will NOT prevent re-fitting the OEM vacuum petcock if you want.

[Mettler1]

  A manual petcock works great IF you REMEMBER to turn it off EVERY TIME!! If you forget even once you could be screwed again.  Overflow tubes are the safety net.

[DaveO430]

I remember to turn it off on my 82 goldwing, after I did a total rebuild of the carbs on it and still had it hydrolock once  so I think I could remember on this. I did get the petcock working on the connie to my satisffaction finally. The check valve in the vacuum side was not letting it close. Took a while to figure out what was going on.
Where do I find the particulars on the overflow tubes?

[Centex]

....Where do I find the particulars on the overflow tubes?

Click Here

[DaveO430]

Thank's , it's not something you do yourself then.

[medicevans]

Oh, I suppose if you had a drill press and a high quality bit you could, but seriously, just send them to Steve.  He uses a press fit and no epoxy or junk to break loose. They will come back to you done right the first time. Are you 100% certain you could get it exactly right?  Cause it has to be. Steve does A LOT of these. You won't be disappointed.

[jworth]

A lot of people have done it for themselves.   Depends on how handy you are. 

[DaveO430]

They just don't come any handier than me. About the only thing I'm dangerous around is paint.

[medicevans]

Haha.  Paint can always be fixed, it's just for pretty anyway. Lol  Go for it. Just go slow and you'll be fine.

[KenE]

I sourced the tube material, then sourced a drill bit  that allowed a press fit. Practiced in some alu scrap to get it right and tight. I had to get a wee bit smaller bit to allow for my crappy drill press... between lettered, fractional and metric bits a precise fit can be found.
HTH
KenE