Does the spring preload and rebound damping screws need to be in a certain position before the fork is taken apart?
Second glitch, stepped into the pan of used fork fluid and spilled it into the garage floor and my good jeans. My wife is going to kill me...
Third glitch, thankfully before I put it back on the bike I tried to adjust the rebound damping adjuster...can't turn it....oh well fun and games....just shoot me.
You're wondering about the position of the spring preload and damping adjusters before disassembly? You're just unscrewing the top cap to change fluid, right? You're not removing the cap from the fork cartridge completely? If you're just changing oil, no, you don't need to adjust anything.
What exactly are "good jeans"? I'm not sure I understand...lol. I just had this discussion yesterday with a friend (his wife was screechin' at him for getting his white t-shirt dirty in the garage). There are no dividers in my closet...lol. My good clothes and my garage clothes are one in the same thing...lol.
You can't turn the rebound adjuster? It must be seized in the fork cap?
If you're only changing oil and not disassembling the fork, you'll be fine. If you actually disassemble the fork, that's where your measurements and adjuster positions become important. I've done well over 20 sets of forks this season, and I see damaged internals fairly often....usually the rebound adjuster rods are bent, or the tips are damaged, or the adjuster is jammed in the fork cap.
Good luck. Looking forward to the play by play review.
Rem