Freddy,

Im not ruling anything out at this time.

Rodent damage is a possibility but I have found anything yet.

Forgive my ignorance on the nomanclature but this the first issue I have had with this bike and I bought it new.

What is KDS?

Thank You

Kawasaki Diagnostic System - version 3, which dealers are supposed to have and know how to use CORRECTLY - and a few owners have. 

One of the nomenclature issues is that Kawasaki has 3 or 4 names for the same item on our bikes, depending on whether you're reading the Owner's manual, service manual, KDS instruction manual or spare parts manual.

Freddy,

Is the KDS something that can be purchased somewhere?

It can occasionally be found here or on eBay. But it's expensive.

It's a dealer only kit but does come up on forums and ebay on rare occasions.  It's now been superseded by K-TISC for H2 bikes with the later version of KIPASS.

https://www.ktisc.eu/k-tisc/legal/terms?back=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ktisc.eu%2Fk-tisc%2Fuser%2FcreateForm%3FexistingUser%3Dfalse%26inviteToken%3D%26prefill%3D%26termsAccepted%3Dtrue

Well Saturday I have a friend that is a tech and pretty good with diagnosis so he is going to come over and help me see if we can figure out whats going on.

I will update once I figure out the fix.

Well Saturdays diagnosis session didnt turn up anything.

Can anyone tell me what the result would be if the Micro switch on the left side of the KiPass housing is broken of stuck in the closed position?

In addition if that switch is stuck would the Bryon BiPass take care of the issue?

Is there anyone in or around Alliance, Ohio that would have the KDS that would help me of at the very least rent it to me?

Thanks all in advance!

Brian's KIPASS Bypass removes the possibility of that switch being the cause of your issue.

Could still be rodent damage somewhere.

Connecting KDS to your bike will not necessarily show where the problem is.  You may need to replace the Fuel Injection ECU as outlined in reply 19 to see if that fixes it.

This perhaps - check that the part number is the same.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254525768678?hash=item3b42eb03e6:g:JaoAAOSw2j5eWUe0&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0DaVbR20ZX19HmW8H1Orkt%2BvZBq5VgswNClzUBRcG%2FbusCkmusb%2BHXihTATBy7gMmlx0rVKIOno3nwDXMP2tob3wjR9EYCkxqAqrjXRnlivEq6F%2FGtvGCSqA%2Bi4xA91H%2BFGT4CieBRRfOnH%2Fx8E7JptUUjAzanshrmzNmnAWlvIjeiwLzEFxggXYvttqmWKfMnk7Ps24bn7QbF%2F2pAcnilcgQuo%2BSTKjTdT2fo2eDpxwQ9Yp%2BvUUWs%2BZcCfnlUkc08KooYBrKeVidX0IvixIckY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9b8haKfYg

Freddy,

If I was to replace the FI ECU does it need to be reflashed to operate on my bike?

I dont particularly like just throwing parts at a problem when I dont know the culprit of the problem if ya know what I mean.

Im not objective to replacing it but I need to find a way to see if the FI ECU is indeed bad.

Thank you for the ideas!! Keep em coming.

If I was to replace the FI ECU does it need to be reflashed to operate on my bike?   No, it needs to be registered to KIPASS using KDS or the bike will not start - mimicking the problem you already have.

As you're not getting any fault codes when you seemed to get the ignition to turn on, I know of no other way of checking for a faulty FI ECU, short of sending it off to a specialist.

I don't like to throw money/parts at a problem but in this case I would make an exception (given that the ebay item above is less than $100) in the absence of rodent damage, which to my mind, is highly probable given what you discovered behind the battery.  I would remove the tank and some plastic to have a thorough look everywhere on the bike.

You are going to have to study the wiring diagram (starts on page 630 in the service manual) and start checking continuity between connectors. Purchase a probe kit so you can measure without damaging the connector pins.
The mice have probably found a favorite place to gnaw.




https://www.amazon.com/Goupchn-Multimeter-Replaceable-Alligator-Electrical/dp/B09ZTSYXM2/ref=d_m_crc_dp_lf_d_t1_sccl_3_2/135-9159914-3799445?pd_rd_w=ggGHD&content-id=amzn1.sym.5d471845-5073-424b-b27b-c0676f48a016&pf_rd_p=5d471845-5073-424b-b27b-c0676f48a016&pf_rd_r=YE42RQ6NK1842W40SN4R&pd_rd_wg=EvXKP&pd_rd_r=40bad480-8608-4292-8d98-376db88de56f&pd_rd_i=B09ZTSYXM2&psc=1

With the battery removed, pull the kipass bypass fuse, put your meter in continuity and place probes in the fuse holder, click the key down and hold it. Check reading. Release and check again. That should give you an indicator as to whether or not the microswitch is an issue at all and you can move on.

Have you tried using either fob in passive mode?

Big Red,

When you say passive mode you mean take the key out of the FOB and place it over the nub on the KiPass unit?

If so yes I have tried that with both fOBs.

Yeah, that's what I meant.

Since this is a recent thread on dead bikes...

I always have it on a tender. I went for a ride last Sunday morning for 2 hours with no issues. Today I needed to take the bike in for a yearly inspection and when I tried to start it, I pushed down, got the indicator on the dash to turn the knob, I did so and everything went blank and nothing does anything anymore.

I checked the battery in the fob and it seems to be very low so my wife will be buying a new battery today. I will also be removing and cleaning the different ground points and see if that fixes it.

This bike has been rock solid since I got it in 2010 so this was a shock to me this morning.

BTW, I did remove the key and hold it over the protrusion for a few seconds and tried it again and nothing. My wife didn't go out and get me a new battery but I don't think that's it.

I did remove the main battery and there was corrosion on the positive battery terminal, but it wasn't bad and the battery was showing 13.5v. I cleaned things up and re-connected and no go.

I am thinking this has to be the KiPass system. Tomorrow I will see if I can work on it and take the plastic off to get to the relays and such. I have the PDF of the service manual, so I am looking at that for locations of everything.

Bad or even questionable connections on this bike can do all sorts of wacky things. Also when you checked battery voltage was it under a load of some sort? Others on here can give you a better idea of what the range should be. Don’t be afraid to use the search function on here. I know it’s been discussed before. Good luck!

My voltage check was under zero load since I have zero response from the bike. But point taken. It could be the battery.

If you don't have a battery load tester, most garages will have one and will normally do a quick test for free if you ask nicely.
Failing that, you can test with a loose starter motor but you will get sparks when you complete the circuit and make 100% certain that the starter motor is bolted down as they kick like a mule.
I use car jump-leads and a C10 starter motor clamped in my bench vise.