Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: timsatx on April 13, 2015, 01:45:48 PM
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What do you guys do to get the rear tire high enough to remove it? I always find it a huge pain in the rear and I thought somebody might have a better mouse trap.
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Put the centerstand on a 2x4...
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After I pop out the axle, and get the rim off the hub, I remove the pumpkin (rear hub assembly) then kinda scoot the tire out sideways, because I have a hitch installed, that's pretty much the only way for me. Plus I like to inspect the hub, splines into the drive shaft, ect. anyways. Just be careful of the o-ring on the hub side splines that go into the drive-shaft.
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For me the biggest problem is actually getting it on the 2x4. The bike sits low enough that you have to work it a bit to get it onto the centerstand normally. Trying to get it on a 2x4 is the real trick.
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For me the biggest problem is actually getting it on the 2x4. The bike sits low enough that you have to work it a bit to get it onto the centerstand normally. Trying to get it on a 2x4 is the real trick.
I put a couple 2x6 pieces parallel to the bike in front of the rear and front tires, roll it up those and then get another one crosswise under it where the centerstand will sit. After its up on the centerstand, remove the pieces under the tires.
The '02 had the rear fender trimmed. The '05 does not. Yet...
Ordered a 777HD for it today.
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Put bike up on center stand as normal, rock to one side a toe a piece of 2 x 4 under one pad to which you then rock the bike the other way and toe another piece of 2 x 4 under the other pad.....
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I'm confused. I put on a new rear last week and just used the centerstand with no clearance problem.
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I pick the whole mutha up with my engine hoist. Can't fall over when it's hanging from chains.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69514.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69514.html)
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I'm with Vic. It's how I've done all my shaft drive bikes. You need to service the spline/coupler anyway, and ya gotta remove the R wheel to do it. So why not at every tire change?
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I'm confused. I put on a new rear last week and just used the centerstand with no clearance problem.
Do you have a rear fender? That is where the problem comes. It jams against that and you can't get it out.
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Put bike up on center stand as normal, rock to one side a toe a piece of 2 x 4 under one pad to which you then rock the bike the other way and toe another piece of 2 x 4 under the other pad.....
I do the same. Plus my rear fender has been bobbed.
Ride safe, Ted
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I do the same. Plus my rear fender has been bobbed.
Ride safe, Ted
I still prefer to remove the rear end on mine as my 170/60-17 tire is not coming out even with the bobbed rear fender....
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I do what Mr. T does.
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I pick the whole mutha up with my engine hoist. Can't fall over when it's hanging from chains.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69514.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69514.html)
I use a come-a-long hooked to the rafters of my garage
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;)
I use the 2X6's parallel to the bike and a 2X6 under the center stand. (An '86 with no other suspension accessories). I usually need help getting the bike up on the center stand, but that method has worked for me in the past (three or four rear tire changes; and yes I lube the rear splines at the same time).
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Are you able to get your tire out without removing anything other than the wheel?
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On my bike I cannot remove the wheel from the hub because of the mean streak rim no matter how high I hang the wheel in the air and/or remove the rear fender.
I do not remove the axle, I just pull it out part way and then the four bolts to the final drive.
The final drive and wheel simply rolls out as one unit. Much easier than wood under the stand. Much easier then trying to align the splines when installing the wheel on the bike. Put it together first and then just roll it up to the bike.
It is the easiest way to do it.
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If you are lubing the splines you don't need the 2 x 6s. The wheel cmes right out after removing the bevel unit.
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I'll have to give that a try.
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This.
http://will.mylanders.com/mc/concours/notes/read.pl?file=50 (http://will.mylanders.com/mc/concours/notes/read.pl?file=50)
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This.
http://will.mylanders.com/mc/concours/notes/read.pl?file=50 (http://will.mylanders.com/mc/concours/notes/read.pl?file=50)
And whatever you do don't follow step (4) as anyone who ever has knows that the chances of not ducking up your muffler bearings (packing) is slim to none.... You might get away with this working hours when the dealership is open but if you try this when they are closed the gremlins will shred your muffler bearing and you will then be forced to wait till Tuesday as the shop is closed on Monday to which at that time you will find out they have none in stock and it will take 2 weeks for them to come in.... Seriously!!!
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I have taken off my mufflers several times with no problems.
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I have taken off my mufflers several times with no problems.
Some folks have good luck with and some have no luck with; I fell in with the latter group... :o ??? ::)
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I have taken off my mufflers several times with no problems.
I take my mufflers off for every tire change. The mufflers are in the way of removing the axle, and also prevent the use of sockets. I also remove them to lube the rear linkage, but I try to do it while changing a tire anyway. After 100k miles, and many tires, I still haven't needed to replace the muffler bearings. I'm careful when putting the mufflers back on. Having said that, Murphy's law means they'll shed next time I pull the mufflers off.
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So when y'all remove the rear end, where do you disconnect it from? I have never done it so I would like to know.
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So when y'all remove the rear end, where do you disconnect it from? I have never done it so I would like to know.
All that is required is to remove the axle nut and slide the axle out or at least far enough to slip out of the brake stay bracket. The remove the 4 acorn nuts that hold the pumpkin to the swingarm on the left; you might want to support the tire/wheel while you do this. The roll the entire assy out/off the bike making sure to not let the pumpkin fall out of the wheel and land on the ground. There is nothing to fiddle/fart around with on the driveshaft to pumpkin as the is but a slip spline there.
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I just changed the tires on my 1400 last week. A few years ago I bought a lift table. Best tool I have ever bought. Have used it dozens of times. Makes life much easier.
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I did remove the final drive. It worked out pretty nice. I didn't have to lift the bike at all. Since I hadn't taken it out that way before I missed the bushing that goes in there so after I put it together I am asking myself 'self, where the hell did that go?' I finally figured it out after taking the final drive off again. I'll deal with the fluids later when I might actually get a chance to ride.
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yea, same here.. Rain, rain, rain..........
Ride safe, Ted
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I had to replace both the front & rear tires on my '86 when I first got it. I put it on the center stand, took the front off first and slowly lowered the forks onto pieces of scrap wood. Then the rear was high enough to slide from under the fender.
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Lowering the wheelless front forks one must be careful because the lower you go the easier it is for the centerstand to fold up.
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When I raise the bike on the center stand I use 2 pieces of 2x4 that have a taper cut on the wide flat side. That way I can rock the bike on the center stand and push the wedge in a bit, go to the other side and rock it the other way to push the other wedge in and work the bike up onto the top on the flats.
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Lowering the wheelless front forks one must be careful because the lower you go the easier it is for the centerstand to fold up.
Very good advice!! Had to borrow a hydraulic hoist to get my bike back up. Cost me a mirrow and and a crack repair by the left turn signal.