Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Uded2me on March 20, 2012, 02:59:57 PM
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What do you guys think?
Whatever Murph sells. (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_98&products_id=42) ;D
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I think Mr. Murphy carries NTN from Japan -- at least that's what I got. My experience says All Balls is All Chinese -- and I have yet to find a product from China that wasn't of second quality.
Not that I don't shop at Harbor Freight...
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Koyo bearings are good too, or at least they used to be. Haven't replaced a wheel bearing in years.
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SKF is another brand I've never had issues with, a local bearing house here in town carries them. The countries of manufacturing on my last couple sets bought were european.
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NTN, FAG, Fafnir, Timken, among others. Stick with U.S. or Japanese and youy'll likely be OK. +1 on the NTN's from Murph. Be sure they have SEALS.
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On my last rear tire change i bought SKF from a local bearing company and they seem to work fine with 9,000 miles on them so fare but i think im gonna go with NTN from murph next time.
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Those with German writing on the box...
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Nothing wrong with any of the more popular Japanese made bearings.
I wouldnt swap SKFs out for NTNs....same quality.
I have NTNs in my front wheel and Fafnirs in the rear.
If you REALLY want the best, go get some high quality super precision bearings...but hold on to your hat when you see what they cost!
NTN, SKF, FAG, Fafnir, JAF, are all very good bearings.
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Basically i just wanted to support Murph so he can continue to support the c-10, i didn't have time to wait for shipping last time so i'm just thinking ahead.
How long should the rear and front bearings last? i have 9,000 on the SKF rear but i don't think the front ones have ever been changed and the bike has almost 73,000, I'm dew for a new front tire in about 1-2k from now and i will be replacing the bearings.
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If you REALLY want the best, go get some high quality super precision bearings...but hold on to your hat when you see what they cost!
The K.I.S.S. pricipal works here best as in most instances....
The price of a bearing means nothing on it's "expected" life...and in this case, "ultra precision" class bearings will simply destroy themselves in no time. Tossing money out the door 2x for the effort.
The application we have here is designed for a bearing with a really low precision index, on purpose, and this in fact leads to long operating life.
You can get a p.o.s. bearing from any manufacturer also, so understand that any NEW bearing may not live as long as the one you just replaced.
As for the Chinese and all the other middle eastern manufactured products, they are all simply equal. I have had the best luck with NTN, FAG, SKF, but have had those very same high end parts fail also.....it's a coin toss. ;)
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Basically i just wanted to support Murph so he can continue to support the c-10, i didn't have time to wait for shipping last time so i'm just thinking ahead.
How long should the rear and front bearings last? i have 9,000 on the SKF rear but i don't think the front ones have ever been changed and the bike has almost 73,000, I'm dew for a new front tire in about 1-2k from now and i will be replacing the bearings.
wow - my fronts were toast at 25K miles. Plan on replacing them again at 50K during my winter service as they're not expensive.
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The fiche prescribed bearing is 601B6304UU - BEARING-BALL,#6304UUC3, where C3 stands for extra slop.
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The fiche prescribed bearing is 601B6304UU - BEARING-BALL,#6304UUC3, where C3 stands for extra slop.
I wouldn't go that far, but they are mid stream..... ;)
Bearings rated with the ABEC rating system typically have five ratings in the class scale that range from the widest tolerances to the tightest tolerances of the bearings with rating numbers of 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9. Each number corresponds to a degree of roundness in the outer and inner races of a bearing. The higher the rating number of bearings, the tighter the component parts for tolerance, meaning that a higher ABEC grade is assigned to a ball bearing manufactured against a higher standard of precision. For instance, a ball bearing rated at a grade of 9 provides the highest precision and efficiency.
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The C3 designation is not related to the ABEC precision ratings (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ABEC_scale (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ABEC_scale) ).
The C3 deals with clearance (see http://www.wib-bearings.com/en/tech/tech_06.htm (http://www.wib-bearings.com/en/tech/tech_06.htm) ).
So C3 means more than normal clearance (i.e. more slop), I believe to allow for compression when it's pushed into place with a bit of an interference fit.
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I used All Balls steering stem bearings on a dirt bike and I could tell they were very low quality. The bike was old and the bearings were cheap and served the purpose. However, I won't be using them on my Concours.
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I used All Balls steering stem bearings on a dirt bike and I could tell they were very low quality. The bike was old and the bearings were cheap and served the purpose. However, I won't be using them on my Concours.
Its all about the brand used. They could have been completely different than whats sold for the Connie.
They dont make the bearings, they just sell them....
Its also possible that you got a bad one. It happens. Not often, but it does happen.
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Two words for everyone buying bearings:
Motion Industries
You probably have one close. If you know the bearing number they can get it. You can also specify Japanese manufacture too.
They are cheaper than most of the "kits" you can buy, but you do have to know the bearing numbers or have the bearing with you when you go in.
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I think the difference may come to play when you consider whether the bearing company is ISO certified. I forget the ISO 9000 or 9001 excact number, but I believe it ensures that at least x% of items they produce must meet the stated specs, something like that.
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