Author Topic: I'm on the fence for an accessory block (Read 9625 times)

Tele130 · « **Reply #20 on:** January 24, 2012, 07:51:58 PM »

Ok guys. I need a lesson in electrical engineering. ;-). Ill do a search when I get home.

Centex · « **Reply #21 on:** January 25, 2012, 01:15:02 AM »

Well, here's another yahoo's approach ..... I have one non-relayed aux fuse block and one relayed FuzeBlock. Running a ZZR alternator and all wired to remove 90% of load from J-Box (J-Box relays only act as switching control for all except start & ignition circuits now, J-Box fuses are down-sized). Charging current from the alternator, headlights, horns and all aux loads by-pass the J-Box.

Schematic shows rewired alternator/charging, Murph dual headlights and non-relayed aux fuse block 1 in the lower left corner. Note this block incorporates the 10A fan fuse that was hooked on the top of the J-Box in the OEM configuration. Relayed aux fuse block 2 is not diagrammed but feed to it from block 1 is shown.

The left panel area. Battery box is shifted right to allow extra depth. Clear plexiglas plate is main electrical panel mount surface now. J-Box shifted down, mounted on foam shock-blocks. Non-relayed aux fuse block 1 with clear top is on the left, relayed aux fuse block 2 on the right. All labels are under clear protective tape laminate. Always-on SAE plug hanging to the left of block 1 is for my tire-pump. The stud with wires to the right of aux block 2 is a ground stud, wired with 6ga on the backside directly to the battery negative post. Visible behind the post is a tupperware box where my Slime (brand) tire-pump and tire-plugs/tools ride (pull-it out from the right side).

mlf73 · « **Reply #22 on:** January 25, 2012, 06:59:41 AM »

I got the fuse block, relay and ground lug strip to start working on my homemade accessory block yesterday only to realize finding a spot for it is going to be a pain. I've got my cruise control servo and vacuum canister under the right side cover so that option is out. I've got my coolant overflow located under the seat behind the battery box using an EX250 jug so not a lot of room there. I might try putting it behind the jug and attach to the inside of the rear fender. I'll take a look and see if there's any way to do as Alan did and lower the J-box a little and squeeze it in under the left cover. That would be my first preference at this point. He put the FZ1 under there though and it seems to be smaller and less cumbersome than what a homemade version is going to be. I thought this would be an easy project.....

bbroj · « **Reply #23 on:** January 25, 2012, 08:00:34 AM »

If you don't havt it permanantly removed or used for some other storage, the space under the tail cover where the "stock" rack is located has been used for fuse blocks and electrical components. It's a bit tough if you are using a top box or have the back rest/luggage rack bolt on option. I don't have cruise control so I'm unfamiliar with it, any chance of relocating the cruise somewhere inside the fairing?

Tele130 · « **Reply #24 on:** January 25, 2012, 08:08:11 AM »

Quote from: Centex on January 25, 2012, 01:15:02 AM

Well, here's another yahoo's approach ..... I have one non-relayed aux fuse block and one relayed FuzeBlock. Running a ZZR alternator and all wired to remove 90% of load from J-Box (J-Box relays only act as switching control for all except start & ignition circuits now, J-Box fuses are down-sized). Charging current from the alternator, headlights, horns and all aux loads by-pass the J-Box.

Schematic shows rewired alternator/charging, Murph dual headlights and non-relayed aux fuse block 1 in the lower left corner. Note this block incorporates the 10A fan fuse that was hooked on the top of the J-Box in the OEM configuration. Relayed aux fuse block 2 is not diagrammed but feed to it from block 1 is shown.

The left panel area. Battery box is shifted right to allow extra depth. Clear plexiglas plate is main electrical panel mount surface now. J-Box shifted down, mounted on foam shock-blocks. Non-relayed aux fuse block 1 with clear top is on the left, relayed aux fuse block 2 on the right. All labels are under clear protective tape laminate. Always-on SAE plug hanging to the left of block 1 is for my tire-pump. The stud with wires to the right of aux block 2 is a ground stud, wired with 6ga on the backside directly to the battery negative post. Visible behind the post is a tupperware box where my Slime (brand) tire-pump and tire-plugs/tools ride (pull-it out from the right side).

I like the idea about diverting (if that would be the proper term for the application) a majority of the power from the "J-Box" (seems to be the weak point in the Connie's electrical system?). There's only one problem....................................That's WAY OVER MY HEAD

. I've started researching Relays on the web for definitions/purpose, placement, types, etc. I have a very basic understanding of the electrical system and I can solder fairly well. But making a Power box? I get lost in the woods.

bbroj · « **Reply #25 on:** January 25, 2012, 08:19:43 AM »

Most of what Tele130 has there is the stock wiring diagram. What he has added is not too much more than what you are considering now. He has 2 fuse boxes for some stock equipment as well as some accessories, 1 hot and 1 switched. He powered things like headlights and horn from those fuse boxes to move the current away from the Jbox. The stock wiring for those devices now only provides trigger voltage/current for relays providing operating power from the aftermarket fuse boxes. It sounds complicated, but taken one piece at a time, the work involved is not beyond what you are considering now.
By the way, nice job, Tele.

Tele130 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 25, 2012, 08:36:07 AM »

Quote from: bbroj on January 25, 2012, 08:19:43 AM

Most of what Tele130 has there is the stock wiring diagram. What he has added is not too much more than what you are considering now. He has 2 fuse boxes for some stock equipment as well as some accessories, 1 hot and 1 switched. He powered things like headlights and horn from those fuse boxes to move the current away from the Jbox. The stock wiring for those devices now only provides trigger voltage/current for relays providing operating power from the aftermarket fuse boxes. It sounds complicated, but taken one piece at a time, the work involved is not beyond what you are considering now.
By the way, nice job, Tele.

That's not my set-up. That's "Centex" set-up. I'm the one that's lost

bbroj · « **Reply #27 on:** January 25, 2012, 09:02:40 AM »

Oops, got my posters crossed up! Sorry to Centex, redirect my compliments on the job to him! Again, the ideas he used are simple by nature, he just has a bunch of them on his bike (kinda like me). If you can grasp the idea of a relay, a small current causing a switch to activate to allow a larger current to flow, usually from another source, you can follow any of these mods if you take it one step, or circuit, at a time. Keep in mind, too, that many of these systems grew over time. They may not have started out as complex as they ended up. Many just started with an aux fuse block like you are considering and expanded from there.

Tele130 · « **Reply #28 on:** January 25, 2012, 10:06:27 AM »

Quote from: bbroj on January 25, 2012, 09:02:40 AM

Oops, got my posters crossed up! Sorry to Centex, redirect my compliments on the job to him! Again, the ideas he used are simple by nature, he just has a bunch of them on his bike (kinda like me). If you can grasp the idea of a relay, a small current causing a switch to activate to allow a larger current to flow, usually from another source, you can follow any of these mods if you take it one step, or circuit, at a time. Keep in mind, too, that many of these systems grew over time. They may not have started out as complex as they ended up. Many just started with an aux fuse block like you are considering and expanded from there.

OK, now a question. For someone like me (with a very, very little knowledge of electricity) would I be better off just getting the "Plug & Play" box from Murph's? Does that help relieve some of the duties that the "J" box is currently doing? (Opps, that's two questions).

The only accessory I'm currently running is a set of Hella driving lights. I do have a heated vest but can't find a controller for it so it just sits.....for now.

backoutonthehighway · « **Reply #29 on:** January 25, 2012, 10:17:21 AM »

Sounds like a pretty knowledgeable crew on this thread. Can anyone recommend a good resource/book on learning Motorcycle electronics? I've got a whole list of things I want to add to the bike (Modulator, Bag-Connection powered tank ring, GPS, Radar, Cruise, Heated Seat, dual heater controls and the list just goes on and on...) and I'd like to set it up with a solid foundation.

Centex · « **Reply #30 on:** January 25, 2012, 10:19:31 AM »

No, worries, bbroj, thanks for the complement.

You are absolutely correct that wiring aux fuse blocks is simple with just a litttle thought. Doing some internet searching for pages about automotive relays and 12 volt circuits/wiring should get a person up to a basic understanding of the concepts.

However (and an answer to Tele130's second question), one common mis-conception specific to the Connie C-10 is that by wiring an aux block or aux load directly to the battery, a user is not increasing the load on the J-Box. That is incorrect. ALL loads to charge the battery (or carry a battery-connected aux load such as lights and heated gear) are routed through the J-Box and the main fuse and relay in the J-Box, no matter how they are connected to the bike. Don't worry about it, folks have logged millions of miles on Connies with lots of aux loads. If you ever have a J-Box problem, you deal with that when it arises.

It is not possible to avoid that fact unless the alternator connections to the bike electrical system are substantially re-wired. I've never seen that done with a stock alternator - it is usually done in conjunction with the ZZR alternator upgrade. Credit where due: Slybones' web site has some of the best explanation on this topic. My alternator wiring is a variation of one of his schematics.

Tele130, to your first question .... IMHO the alleged "plug-and-play" aux fuse block solution is only simpler to the extent that the included instructions are thorough, explicit and specific to your machine's wiring. I've not seen Murph's kit so can't comment about it. The FuzeBlock brand instructions are good but are not specific to the Connie and require some basic grasp of 12 volt wiring concepts. The FuzeBlock is simple in that the relay is integrated and the unit gives a choice of switched or un-switched on any circuit without re-wiring. Some may (rightly) argue that the integrated relay does not lend to easy replacement if it fails.

As in most engineering, the is no absolute one-best-answer ... finding the best compromises for your case is the trick

Centex · « **Reply #31 on:** January 25, 2012, 10:28:29 AM »

Two last suggestions for anyone doing electrical work on a bike:

1. Disconnecting the NEGATIVE lead from your battery and taping it aside so it can't touch the battery should always be THE FIRST STEP of ANY wiring project.

2. Reconnecting the NEGATIVE lead to your battery after checking all your new and old wiring three times should always be THE LAST STEP of ANY wiring project.

This website has lots of pretty good info on general 12 volt automotive/motorcycle wiring and circuit concepts.

WARNING (backoutonthehighway has a C14 in his sig line)- all bets are off when talking a C-14 because it may use a computerized "CAN" type electircal system (Controller Area Network) like modern cars. I am posting in a C-10 section of this forum. You need to check with your C14 brothers about messing with that system.

backoutonthehighway · « **Reply #32 on:** January 25, 2012, 12:38:49 PM »

Quote from: Centex on January 25, 2012, 10:28:29 AM

Two last suggestions for anyone doing electrical work on a bike:

1. Disconnecting the NEGATIVE lead from your battery and taping it aside so it can't touch the battery should always be THE FIRST STEP of ANY wiring project.

2. Reconnecting the NEGATIVE lead to your battery after checking all your new and old wiring three times should always be THE LAST STEP of ANY wiring project.

This website has lots of pretty good info on general 12 volt automotive/motorcycle wiring and circuit concepts.

WARNING (backoutonthehighway has a C14 in his sig line)- all bets are off when talking a C-14 because it may use a computerized "CAN" type electircal system (Controller Area Network) like modern cars. I am posting in a C-10 section of this forum. You need to check with your C14 brothers about messing with that system.

Thanks for pointing that out Alan! That "show unread posts since your last visit" gets me sometimes.

Texanrider · « **Reply #33 on:** January 25, 2012, 07:13:52 PM »

WOW....awesome input on this thread...if only I could understand it! lol. It may as well be written in Chinese for me (no disrespect meant by this).

I think I may just have to call in a tech session someday soon and provide beverages (both kinds

)and BBQ to anyone willing to teach a newbie how to wire properly. I love wrenching and getting my hands dirty, but I realize my lack of knowledge in this department so I would need some guidance.

kzz1king · « **Reply #34 on:** January 26, 2012, 12:49:45 PM »

This project is easier than it sounds. Electrical troubleshooting is a pan for me though. Best thing about this is that it can be tested on the bench.

Rick Hall · « **Reply #35 on:** January 26, 2012, 01:18:39 PM »

Wellll...

I've had the Murphs block (first link, first post) since day one, probably one of the first he sold. Read: many years, many miles ago.

It is a bit pricy compared to what a person can assemble from parts house bits, but it fits the Connie to a tee, and has been flawless since day one. I run my grip heaters, feed for the radar detector, and the Hella Upgrade light off it.

Only thing that it may lack is an 'always on' circuit, but my Connie has two sets of those built in if I ever need one. Like adding a permanent Battery Tenda connection.

Murphs block is time tested and works out of the box. They are fairly easy to build though.

Rick

Uglydog56 · « **Reply #36 on:** January 27, 2012, 04:07:02 PM »

Quote from: kzz1king on January 24, 2012, 07:13:42 PM

After rereading I am thinking you have the block hot all the time via the large fuse and you relay components that come off it as needed?
Wayne

You are correct sir. I run my HID's, driving lights, fog lights, front cig lighter, rear cig lighters off box. Lights are all relayed off the headlight circuit so they don't turn on until the bike is running just like stock headlight. Lighter sockets are hot all the time.

mlf73 · « **Reply #37 on:** January 27, 2012, 08:27:13 PM »

Quote from: SteveJ. on January 23, 2012, 07:34:23 PM

Iff'n you're gonna put the real cruise control(Audiovox from Murphs") on the bike, find another spot for the board, I mounted mine to the fender behind the battery. Also, there is a wire coming out of the Jbox that goes live with the headlight, this way your board will not be powered until the bike is running, normally. It could also prevent low voltage issues while cranking that can burn relay contacts or cook electronics, maybe. Try to use a main relay larger than 30 amps, mine is rated at 40, got it at one of those sleazy auto parts stores.

Take your time, and ask questions and/or offer free beer and/or lunch for help. You just may find a taker. Or... host a tech session.

Can someone tell me what is the best place to trigger my relay for my home-made aux fuse block? SteveJ mentioned a wire coming directly from the Jbox.....can someone identify the wire by color? Someone else also mentioned one of the brake ckt wires. I guess the run will be about the same for either since I'm going to have to mount the unit to the rear fender behind the battery box due to having my cruise control stuff under the right cover and I'm not going to have enough room to put it under the left cover. Had I thought this through prior to spending money I probably would have went with Murphs unit since it's made to mount near the Jbox. I'm invested in the home-made unit now so no turning back! Thanks for any suggestions.

Marlan

kzz1king · « **Reply #38 on:** January 27, 2012, 09:19:03 PM »

I have used the wire that feeds the coils also. I am using the brake light one next time. Any wire that is hot when you turn the key on works.
Wayne

T Cro ® · « **Reply #39 on:** January 28, 2012, 04:47:29 AM »

Blue wire from the j-box goes hot after you hit the starter or with the key, I forget but either way fine to trigger the relay for this app.

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Author Topic: I'm on the fence for an accessory block (Read 9625 times)