Author Topic: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system. (Read 10477 times)

BS-in-KS · « **on:** September 01, 2011, 07:57:12 PM »

Currently installed is a Starcom1 advanced unit hardwired to my Zumo660 which is bluetooth linked to my phone. I have a modular flip face helmet with the boom mic and helmet speakers and plug for earphones installed in it. My problem is in trying to get the durned thing adjusted so people can understand me when I talk to them on the phone. The common consensus is that I sound muffled and usually can only barely be understood when I almost whisper and extremely enunciate my words. This is also best when the little mic hole on the boom mic is turned away from my mouth and the mic is pushed away from my lips and up to the chin bar and slightly below my lips. I've tested out the mic sensitivity adjustment while on the phone (and stopped) and it was said that the best sound was at about the 40% setting. VOX is turned off so it doesn't interfere with the phone conversation by cutting out and in. And yet the best I can seem to do is achieve muffled and garbled speech status.

Anybody have any ideas I can try? I don't spend a lot of time on the phone while riding but I do commute to work as often as I can on the bike and am also married with 2 kids so when the wife, kids or grandparents call, I like to answer and talk to them. And I just want it to work like I think it is supposed to.

Thanks for any help you all can provide!

Brent S.

Mad River Marc · « **Reply #1 on:** September 01, 2011, 08:04:03 PM »

Let me know if you get it working, I futzed with my Starcom for months before giving up on it... Now I just use an Amplirider that ties my GPS/Ipod/Radar together into a set of custom earbuds...

DonB · « **Reply #2 on:** September 01, 2011, 08:11:00 PM »

I had some problem with mine and am not sure if I really know what I am talking about or not. It did seem that the problem was with the Garmin. It just does not have enough audio. the other thing I found was that it would work better if I did not have the Garmin doing anything else. (using the processor) for anything
routes, music, xm,
I can not prove it but the phone audio was better if I was not using the processor for other things.
to me it was almost like the processor was not large enough to being other things while trying to use the Bluetooth

stewart · « **Reply #3 on:** September 01, 2011, 09:42:44 PM »

I have a Starcom1 Digital, hardwired to a Zumo 660. Basically everything works perfectly, rider to passenger, music, GPS, bike to car via CB...the only problem I've ever had is the phone. And becuase I use it rarely, I've never gotton to the bottom of it. Prior to the Zumo, I had the bluetooth dongle from Starcom and thought it was the issue. Now with the Garmin, I have the same problems. I know its not the garmin becuase I can make phone calls with it directly via bluetooth enabled phone.

I just put it down to too many moving parts, which shouldn't be the case. The only other test I could think of was removing bluetooth out of the equation, but I don't want to waste the money.

lt1 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 01, 2011, 10:13:49 PM »

My experience is similar, but distinct. I have a Zumo 550 and an Autocom. With my prior phones hardwired in, the phones worked perfectly. No one could tell that I was riding unless I informed them. However, I could not use the Zumo's phone book or dial out or even refuse to answer a call.

On my current phone, I can hook it up through BlueTooth, and have the opposite experience. All the Zumo features work, except nobody can hear/understand me. For the most part, I can hear them okay. The phone does work with the engine and bike stopped, however.

Don't know if any of that helps. I've sort of gotten to the point where it's nice not to make or get calls when riding. Sometimes, when traveling with a group, it would be nice to be able to coordinate better w/o stopping, but we manage.

BS-in-KS · « **Reply #5 on:** September 01, 2011, 10:35:19 PM »

I think I'm going to have to at least try to wire my phone directly into the starcom at least once and eliminate the Zumo from the equation just to see if it is the problem or not. I just really like having the phone functionality right there on the Zumo and I can leave my phone in it's holster instead of having to come up with a place to put it too. Maybe this weekend, while I'm fiddling and farkling on the bike, I'll try the direct approach and see how it does. Will let you know and if anyone else comes up with some eureka idea feel free to share.

gadallah · « **Reply #6 on:** September 01, 2011, 11:53:03 PM »

This is a well known problem with the Zumo 660 and 665. Your setup would work perfectly with he Zumo 550. I know this because I have the 550 and 665 and Starcom1 digital. One option you may want to consider is buying BT module for the Starcom. This will allow you to bypass the 660 but you won't have the convenience of the the Zumo/phone interface.

stewart · « **Reply #7 on:** September 02, 2011, 07:30:14 AM »

Quote from: gadallah on September 01, 2011, 11:53:03 PM

This is a well known problem with the Zumo 660 and 665. Your setup would work perfectly with he Zumo 550. I know this because I have the 550 and 665 and Starcom1 digital. One option you may want to consider is buying BT module for the Starcom. This will allow you to bypass the 660 but you won't have the convenience of the the Zumo/phone interface.

I'm not sure about that. When my phone is paired with the Zumo 660 off the bike, I can make hands free calls with the Zumo 660 perfectly fine. Admittedly I didn't have it navigating anywhere, but when testing on the bike where it fails to work well, I wasn't navigating anywhere as well.

I also have the Starcom Bluetooth dongle and that never work well either.

As much as I love the Starcom, this one area has been a pain.

Quote

I think I'm going to have to at least try to wire my phone directly into the starcom at least once and eliminate the Zumo from the equation just to see if it is the problem or not.

BS-in-KS, I'd be very interested to hear your feedback once you test it hardwired.

qyetman · « **Reply #8 on:** September 03, 2011, 09:12:53 PM »

slightly off topic BS.. but what CB and interface to the Starcom are you using? I contacted Starcom for an interface to my Cobra 75 but they don't have one BTW my starcom is the older model purchased in 2005.

stewart · « **Reply #9 on:** September 03, 2011, 09:27:37 PM »

I use a Midland FMRS (if I recall correctly) which we use for skiing and hiking. Its not a true 40 channel CB. Although I have considered getting a CB for when I ride with some gold wingers

BS-in-KS · « **Reply #10 on:** September 05, 2011, 03:47:21 PM »

Well, here's the scoop. I did a lot of tearing into the bike this weekend and got everything installed that I wanted so far. The pertinent part of that is the work I did to the electrical and the comm system. I haven't road tested any of it yet but did get a chance to test it in the shop once I started putting all the panels and such back on.

Up to this point I've been running the Starcom unit, bluetooth module (unplugged), and Zumo660 off the accessory leads hidden in that left boot in the front. As you can imagine there was quite a bit of alternator whine and engine noise present when I turned on the comm system. This weekend I finally got the main power line ran from the battery up to the front of the bike and got all the comm system on separate power which eliminated almost all the noise in the comm system.

Next I plugged my starcom bluetooth module in and "disconnected" the bluetooth connection between the zumo and my phone. I've been testing this by calling my brother since he also has a Starcom system and so that I have a good record of how each modification sounds when compared to the others. The Starcom bluetooth module seemed to him much clearer and I was able to actually talk normally instead of sounding like I was in slow motion when I over enunciated everything. The last test I did was to plug the phone straight into the Starcom brain which he said was worse than the bluetooth connection to the module.

I made all these tests with the bike running but now I need to get out and test it at speed to see if it's still better than the Zumo. (I imagine it will be but we'll see.) I'm pretty disappointed that the Zumo seems to be the problem with this since this means I'll have to work up a mount now for my phone also and can't use the Zumo's built in phone funtionality.

As to the radio or CB question, I will be using a Kenwood radio. No CB on mine so don't know what to tell you on connections for any of those.

Well, there you go for what it's worth.

Brent S.

Grant Borden · « **Reply #11 on:** September 05, 2011, 06:16:00 PM »

I had the same problem with theStarcom1 Advance hardwired to the Zumo 550, Zumo 550 Bluetoothed to the phone. All other functions operating properly. After trying two of my friends Zumo 550's and a different Starcom1 Advance without success one of my friends, who is a Telecommunications engineer, checked the output of both Starcoms and determined the Problem was the Starcom1 Advance output (volume level that can't be changed) is too high for the Zumo 550 causing audio distortion.

I have been able to improve the performance somewhat by using an audio PAD attenuating (lowering the output volume) the Starcom1 output. It will not operate as claimed by the manufacture.

B.D.F. · « **Reply #12 on:** September 05, 2011, 07:03:48 PM »

If this a commercial item or 'home made'? If commercial, can you point us in the general direction.... well, actually the exact direction with a link?

Brian

Quote from: Grant Borden on September 05, 2011, 06:16:00 PM

I had the same problem with theStarcom1 Advance hardwired to the Zumo 550, Zumo 550 Bluetoothed to the phone. All other functions operating properly. After trying two of my friends Zumo 550's and a different Starcom1 Advance without success one of my friends, who is a Telecommunications engineer, checked the output of both Starcoms and determined the Problem was the Starcom1 Advance output (volume level that can't be changed) is too high for the Zumo 550 causing audio distortion.

I have been able to improve the performance somewhat by using an audio PAD attenuating (lowering the output volume) the Starcom1 output. It will not operate as claimed by the manufacture.

BS-in-KS · « **Reply #13 on:** September 06, 2011, 12:36:36 PM »

So if I'm understanding you correctly, when I speak the mic pics it up, goes through the starcom brain and gets boosted to garbled levels, goes to the Zumo and then gets transmitted to the phone and on to the person on the other end?

Could one make some kind of rheostat volume control module to put inline on the starcom's output line? (Isn't that the 2.5mm plug on the zumo? That's the one I've got plugged into my phone jack on the Starcom and the 3.5mm plug from the zumo goes to the audio jack on the starcom.)

Brent S.

(OK, I think I just asked the same question as Brian but I'll just be ignorant and ask it anyway.)

Quote from: Grant Borden on September 05, 2011, 06:16:00 PM

the Problem was the Starcom1 Advance output (volume level that can't be changed) is too high for the Zumo 550 causing audio distortion.

I have been able to improve the performance somewhat by using an audio PAD attenuating (lowering the output volume) the Starcom1 output. It will not operate as claimed by the manufacture.

stewart · « **Reply #14 on:** September 06, 2011, 04:58:12 PM »

I might need to break out my Science Kit

http://www.blowsmeaway.com/faq.html

Grant Borden · « **Reply #15 on:** September 06, 2011, 07:13:10 PM »

If this a commercial item or 'home made'? If commercial, can you point us in the general direction.... well, actually the exact direction with a link?

Using a short wire with the correct size male connector on one end and female on the other end to insert between the Zomo and Starcom cut between connectors inserted an attenuation circuit as follows.

Using items from Radio Shack: A 5 Meg pot, a .001 capacitor (to aid in canceling background/wind noise) from one outside terminal to the center terminal (wiper) cut the center wire connected to each end of the capacitor and connected the remaining mic wire to the remaining pot terminal.

You also may want to Google "audio PAD" for additional links and information to build a resistor bridge.

My engineer friend said he would bring better test equipment for testing so he could determine the correct circuit and value of the components needed to build it correctly. Unfortunately he will be working out of the country for a couple of months.

BS-in-KS · « **Reply #16 on:** September 07, 2011, 10:01:58 PM »

Well, I'm going to have to wait for someone with more electronic smarts than me to decipher what Grant Borden just said. It sounds somewhat easy and yet like a different language all at the same time. I googled "audio PAD" like he suggested and did a little "light" reading and decided I'm going to have to go find me an electrical engineer to help me figure this out and see if it works for my problem too. (I tried the cheapo method of just getting an inline volume control and that of course didn't work.)

Maybe I'll fix this thing afterall. Maybe not. I just really want to wave my daughter's magic wand over it and make it work right!

Brent S.

stewart · « **Reply #17 on:** September 08, 2011, 07:20:35 AM »

I'm going to hit Radio Shack and wire this up to test...I'll report back.

BS-in-KS · « **Reply #18 on:** September 08, 2011, 10:27:34 AM »

Oooh, pictures would be nice too! I can follow the written directions of how to do it much better when there's a picture of the result with it.

Brent S.

stewart · « **Reply #19 on:** September 08, 2011, 10:36:54 AM »

I'll try, but I just want to mock it up first and confirm it helps. If it does, then I'll rethink the implementation and do it properly.

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Author Topic: ...and yet more help with my Starcom1 system. (Read 10477 times)