My bike is at 15K miles, and since I just bought a new K&N for it (see this thread http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2667.0)  I thought I would share what was involved for me to change the air filter on my 2010.  I'm sure the procedure is basically the same for other years.  It's certainly not as easy as an old car, but it's not a dealer only task either.

If you have small to normal sized hands (not bear paws or baseball mits), it makes the job a little easier, as you don't have to remove the upper fairing and windshield.

Tools needed were :
4mm Allen wrench,
5mm Allen wrench,
8mm 1/4" drive socket (5/16" 6 point will also work)
10mm 1/4" drive socket (19/32" 6 point will also work)
New air filter 


To start with, I parked the bike with the windshield all the way up (hold windshield control button while turning off the key switch), and the handlebars to the right lock.  A quick test if your hands are too big for my procedure will be if you can remove and re-install the plastic rivet at the top of the dash behind the windshield, without removing the windshield.

The filter is located on the left side of the frame, just below the storage compartment on the 2010.  I removed the relay cover between the gas cap and the handle bars (3 - 5MM Allen screws), and the storage compartment (3 - 4mm Allen screws, 1 - 5mm Allen screw, plastic rivet at top of dash, 3 wiring connectors).

Once the plastic is out of the way, there is a shiny cover bolted to the side of the frame, and the filter is behind it.  To get to it, requires moving more stuff out of the way.

There is a foam heat barrier directly in the way that is held in place by 2 10mm bolts (socket head cap screws).  One is threaded into the frame and is easily visible, while the other is hidden near the lower, back side of the panel.  This is where hand size comes into play.  Getting to these bolts was tight for me, but with larger hands, you would need to remove the side fairing.

After the heat panel was moved to the side, the relays above the tank and wiring also needed to be pulled loose from their mount tabs to get clear access to the filter cover.  The cover is held in place by 2 8mm bolts.  Once the bolts and cover are removed, the filter requires some work to get it out, as it's a tight fit.  There is a wedge with slots on the exposed side of the filter, that you can hook into for pulling the filter out.

Getting the filter to clear the side fairing was pretty easy, and just required rotating it down behind the fairing, then straight up and out.

Assembly was simply the reverse of dis-assembly, with no surprises.  The K&N fit even tighter than the stock one, and had me wondering if something was not lined up right at first.  It did eventually relent, and seated properly once all the way in.

Getting the lower bolt in the heat barrier was a bit tricky, but using a short extension with the socket allowed for something to hold onto while aligning and starting the bolt.  Also, make sure the rubber relay covers up top slip back over the mount tabs completely.

Also, be sure you do not drop anything behind the plastics, since it may prove very difficult finding where it went if it doesn't fall out the bottom.  I dropped the plastic rivet while installing it, and it fell into the slot where the windshield mount comes through the plastic.  It rattled it's way down into a spot near the bottom of the fairing, that had no way out.  When I finally found it, I also found another one there with it.  Not sure how it got there, since it wasn't one I lost, but it's probably been there awhile.  So, now I have a spare.   

As a bonus for installing the new filter, I noticed there is now a little less vibration at speed.  It was not drastic or dramatic, but definitely better.  Since the vibs from my bike have always been there since day one, I have to conclude its the K&N that helped it.

The picture below helps illustrate things a little...

awesome how-to for the nooBs.

On a side note, I change mine every 25,000 miles or so. Here's the condition of my filters at that mileage:

old


new

That looks like a LOT of work for the newbies. Is there a different procedure for us oldies that is any easier?   

Nice write up. The procedure is a little different on the earlier models because the relays were originally on the left hand side, just outside the filter's path when it is changed.

Brian

My bike is at 15K miles, and since I just bought a new K&N for it (see this thread http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2667.0)  I thought I would share what was involved for me to change the air filter on my 2010.  I'm sure the procedure is basically the same for other years.  It's certainly not as easy as an old car, but it's not a dealer only task either.

<snip>

That looks like a LOT of work for the newbies. Is there a different procedure for us oldies that is any easier?   

Nice write up. The procedure is a little different on the earlier models because the relays were originally on the left hand side, just outside the filter's path when it is changed.

Brian

Nope, my '08 was just as involved.  I changed mine at 15k - it wasn't as dirty as Steve's but cruddy nevertheless.  It's too bad that so much plastic has to be removed, but that is the "nature of the beast."  I chose to take care of other maintenance tasks at the same time (steering bearing lube, throttlebody sync, coolant change, etc.)

Thanks for the write up...I'll reference it when it's time, as I bought a K&N off Amazon on a nice sale.  But I think it's REALLY cool the trick about the windshield.  LOL  I had to run out to the garage to give it a try.  I'm annoyed with things going back to a default setting.  Now if only that trick worked to keep eco mode on.

The C-14 filter gets dirty faster than anything I've seen. For sure don't let go as far as Steve's.
I'm checking mine every 10,000 from now on. That ram air sucks in bugs, birds, small children, compact cars..........wel....bugs for sure.

I put the BMC air filter on mine, I just have to clean it every now and then...no replacement.

There is a foam heat barrier directly in the way that is held in place by 2 10mm bolts (socket head cap screws).  One is threaded into the frame and is easily visible, while the other is hidden near the lower, back side of the panel.  This is where hand size comes into play.  Getting to these bolts was tight for me, but with larger hands, you would need to remove the side fairing.

Just to add a little trick to C1X's post, I cut my heat shield bracket so that
all I have to do is loosen the two bolts, not remove them.  It makes filter check/changes much easier.  Here is a picture with one of the cuts circled in yellow:


Mick

heads up super value...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HiFlo-Air-Filter-HFA2916-23-2916-1011-2643-551-2916-314-A2916-982198-HFA2916-/261672796948

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HiFlo-Air-Filter-HFA2916/361492186571?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D34862%26meid%3D4b354ab1abc04fb4aa029955dd638617%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D261672796948

just sharing...

Decided to fit a Sprint air filter after much research.
http://sprintfilter.com.au/p08-replacement-air-filters/kawasaki/sprint-filter-p08-air-filter-for-kawasaki-ninja-zx-14-1400gtr.html

Decided to fit a Sprint air filter after much research.
http://sprintfilter.com.au/p08-replacement-air-filters/kawasaki/sprint-filter-p08-air-filter-for-kawasaki-ninja-zx-14-1400gtr.html

$148
seriously??

Does seem kinda pricey, doesn't it?

Not really, a genuine Kawasaki air filter for a GTR1400 is approximately  A$79.00,a K&N air filter is approximately A$129.00 here in Australia.
For interest sakes what is the cost of a new Kawasaki Concours C14 in the USA?
A new GTR 1400 Kawasaki is approx. A$25,000.00 plus on road costs in Australia a little cheaper if there is a promotion on. 98 octane fuel is around A$130.00 to a  A$149.00 per litre. 4.6ltrs = 1gallon approx.

Not really, a genuine Kawasaki air filter for a GTR1400 is approximately  A$79.00,a K&N air filter is approximately A$129.00 here in Australia.
For interest sakes what is the cost of a new Kawasaki Concours C14 in the USA?
A new GTR 1400 Kawasaki is approx. A$25,000.00 plus on road costs in Australia a little cheaper if there is a promotion on. 98 octane fuel is around A$130.00 to a  A$149.00 per litre. 4.6ltrs = 1gallon approx.

what the.....? come on, price per litre?

may take up walking soon eh?

USA price on oem air filters are quite cheap, might want to check, and I'll split the difference and send you one...

price here is $40-60 depending where purchased, I'll send ya one for $70 US.

complete bikes here run about $15,000 new....

and you don't need 98 octane fuel... 89 works fine.... we buy it here for about $2.30 a US gallon,  or approximatly $14.00 a fill up.

Australia is the land of "milk and honey", but it will cost you. Where as America is the land of opportunity because every thing is so "bloody cheap".

Australia is the land of "milk and honey", but it will cost you. Where as America is the land of opportunity because every thing is so "bloody cheap".

If something is sent to you via post marked " knick knacks" or " design prototype" is it heavily taxed on entry?  I've gotta think with the folks here in the US and the easy access to PayPal that your  yank brothers could do a Bruce a favor when you need parts.   

Depending on your distance to a US base there, a friend in the military can be golden as the post between the USA and military bases is quick and cheap,  I helped out more than one local friend when  stationed overseas with my " I ordered two of these, want one?" When it came to moto parts ( they also had the inside track and hooked me up on Gilera parts as well) .   Granted that was about 20 years ago, but uncle sugar changes slowly so I gotta figure it's still a viable option.

what the.....? come on, price per litre?

may take up walking soon eh?

USA price on oem air filters are quite cheap, might want to check, and I'll split the difference and send you one...

price here is $40-60 depending where purchased, I'll send ya one for $70 US.

complete bikes here run about $15,000 new....

and you don't need 98 octane fuel... 89 works fine.... we buy it here for about $2.30 a US gallon,  or approximatly $14.00 a fill up.

Octane is calculated differently outside of the US.

Octane is calculated differently outside of the US.

got it...

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating


dollars are different also
http://www.x-rates.com/calculator/?from=AUD&to=USD&amount=1


but I'm still not seeing the gas price thing....

methinks the decimal point needs to be moved left, 2 places.....

got it...

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating


dollars are different also
http://www.x-rates.com/calculator/?from=AUD&to=USD&amount=1


but I'm still not seeing the gas price thing....

methinks the decimal point needs to be moved left, 2 places.....

Check this out in relation to fuel cost in Brisbane Australia, where I live:
https://www.racq.com.au/cars-and-driving/driving/fair-fuel-prices?fragment=0&fuel-type=Premium Unleaded 98&location=4161&btnGo=Go

Use post code 4161 and select fuel type 98 octane. Price is per litre .