Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: MizzouMike on May 17, 2011, 08:06:51 PM
-
Normally I would do a search, but since we need to rebuild some content, I think I will start a new topic. I know that this had been discussed a few times before.
So I was taking off the plastic for the first time in about 14 months. I am finnally getting around to doing all of the work that I was planning on doing last winter. (Notice the lack of stick coils and block off plates that are still in box in the garage)
I noticed that it appears that I am missing a frame bolt? I am pretty sure it was there when I did the valves last, so I guess it just fell out??? Does anyone have the exact size, and would you reccommend replacing the other side at the same time?
(http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/37175/2628232890096516608S425x425Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2628232890096516608HBCKqm)
-
Right side: 10 mm with 1.5 Pitch x 72 mm long Socket Head Cap Screw Class 12.9 strength is stronger than stock. If found at local Ace or Fastenal you will need 75 mm long as they will not have odd 72 mm length.
Left side: Same bolt but 100 mm long.
-
Thanks Tony!
There is a Fastenal not too far from work (we even have an account). This looks like that animal.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=39647&ucst=t (http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=39647&ucst=t)
Does the extra 3mm make a difference? (is it too long?) I guess if I am upgrading the strenght of the bolt, I will replace both.
I noticed that these are a bit mor expensive on BikeBandit, but it was certainly easy to find it on their site...
-
You will also need a M10 x 1.5 nut, preferably class 8.8. The original was a flanged nut, which are also available at Fastenal in high strength. The extra 3 mm should not pose a problem, there is usually enough extra thread, but if there are not enough threads, you can add a washer under the nut.
HTH,
-
Just a note from experience. The engine is a stressed member of the frame, and the right and left bolts have a correct installation procedure. I broke a couple of the right side bolts before fixing it correctly. The problem is the spacers were missing from the left. And the fix, loosen/remove the left engine mount, tighten the right, and use spacers and re-tighten the left. I also noticed more steering wobble when the bolt was missing.
B
-
Just a note from experience. The engine is a stressed member of the frame, and the right and left bolts have a correct installation procedure. I broke a couple of the right side bolts before fixing it correctly. The problem is the spacers were missing from the left. And the fix, loosen/remove the left engine mount, tighten the right, and use spacers and re-tighten the left. I also noticed more steering wobble when the bolt was missing.
B
I had begun to notice some steering woble recently, I took both hands off the bars to adjust my gloves a week or so ago, and she really started to shimmy.
-
FWIW, a 75 mm bolt will be no problem at all. In fact, I have a 100 mm bolt in that side of my bike as that's what I had available.
-
I had begun to notice some steering woble recently,
There can be other reasons for this, but . . .
About 5 or 6 years ago my C10 started feeling really sloppy in the handling and steering inputs. Change wasn't gradual, just all at once.
Shortly after, I found the left top motor mount bolt was broken and hanging out. All was good again once it was replaced.
-
Just a note from experience. The engine is a stressed member of the frame, and the right and left bolts have a correct installation procedure. B
And that procedure would be? Finding nothing in my cymers manual and search is not helping either. Grrrlol
Second question is I've found a broken lower rear bolt have a replacement, But it's looking like it will hit the exhaust coming out. Surly those Dang engineers would give enough space to get it out with out dropping the exhaust? Ya right I hate Engineers, Grrrrrr
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2253823550104847134ELdhsJ (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2253823550104847134ELdhsJ)
Deferring to the collective here's how I would do it.
Place bike on center stand.
Use floor jack to take just a bit weight off motor.
Loosen, But not remove all bolts.
Remove clutch side upper bolt, clean and reinsert bolt. Torque all bolts on clutch side.
Remove throttle side upper bolt, clean, check for need of shim, reinsert bolt. Torque to spec.
With all bolts Torqued, remove jack and double check Torque on all bolts.
Thanks in Advance.
Tj
-
FWIW - the local Toyota or Honda etc car dealer may have a bolt or a nut too.
To remove the lower rear engine bolt I ground off the bolt flange on one side of the head. The new bolt didn't have a flange so I used a washer. All went together well and been that way a few years or more. Aftermarket bolt was used.
-
Correct proceedure?? what?? I just put the bolt in and torqued it down (gutten tight) didn't use the torque wrench..
I guess I should have looked in the book, but it seemed strait forward. Havn't rode yet, as I am still in the middle of installing aux lights. I keep riding the cruiser, so the project is taking longer that I had planned :)
-
(Quote T-Cro OLD POST)
===================
Yep missing right front motor mount bolt.... Very common.
92001-1889 SOCKET HEAD BOLT, 10 mm X 72 mm
410B1000 FLAT WASHER SMALL OD , 10MM
92210-1080 FLANGED LOCKNUT , 10MM
You might be able to get a suitable replacement from your local Hardware Store. I would like to find in grade 12.9 (equal to SAE grade Cool but will happily settle for grade 10.9 (equal to SAE grade 5) if that is all I could find locally. Bolt can be a little longer such as 75 mm or perhaps 80 mm.
10x70 from ACE hardware works also.
Plus A LOT cheaper!!!
-
Correct proceedure?? what?? I just put the bolt in and torqued it down (gutten tight) didn't use the torque wrench..
I guess I should have looked in the book, but it seemed strait forward. Havn't rode yet, as I am still in the middle of installing aux lights. I keep riding the cruiser, so the project is taking longer that I had planned :)
Page 4-16 has the shim procedure. There are 1.2mm and 2.0mm thick shims. Based on the description, some models needed shimming, others didn't. Mine (2003) did not have a shim on the upper left engine mount bolt.
Dan
-
Correct procedure: ;)
And the fix, loosen/remove the left engine mount, tighten the right, and use spacers and re-tighten the left.B
-
(http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/45137/2663372080053667879S600x600Q85.jpg)
Dan
-
Mine actually took a 3mm shim. Once I got everything to spec, I think it reduced the buzz a little.