Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Dan Forker on September 08, 2014, 12:40:09 PM
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I took the advice of another forum member and obtained LED bulbs for the front and back turn signals. Back bulbs were easy and these bulbs really light up the back. The front is another matter. How do you get access to the front bulbs to replace them? Surely, you don't have to remove the side fairings to change turn signal bulbs that that is the way it appears.
Fork
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Yeah, sorry to bear bad news but that is it Dan. You may be able to reach in far enough if you remove the mid- fairing but really, what would the point of that even be? You <might> be able to remove the inside fairing between the radiator and the front fairing proper (two screws) and reach back to where the side light is but I do not think so.
The fairings do go on and off pretty easily though.
Brian
I took the advice of another forum member and obtained LED bulbs for the front and back turn signals. Back bulbs were easy and these bulbs really light up the back. The front is another matter. How do you get access to the front bulbs to replace them? Surely, you don't have to remove the side fairings to change turn signal bulbs that that is the way it appears.
Fork
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What he said..
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As has been mentioned in other threads, some people (including myself) are extremely interested in replacement LED bulbs for the turn signals but have been very disappointed with the light output and/or direction/coverage of what has been on the market. If you believe you have something that is at least as bright and as good a coverage as stock, PLEASE share as much info on the Forum as you can....
Source
Model
Photos before after (although this doesn't show much)
Even better- photo of ONE SIDE with LED at the same time with ONE SIDE of incandescent (use hazard)
Thanks!
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Out of the Service manual:
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As has been mentioned in other threads, some people (including myself) are extremely interested in replacement LED bulbs for the turn signals but have been very disappointed with the light output and/or direction/coverage of what has been on the market. If you believe you have something that is at least as bright and as good a coverage as stock, PLEASE share as much info on the Forum as you can....
Source
Model
Photos before after (although this doesn't show much)
Even better- photo of ONE SIDE with LED at the same time with ONE SIDE of incandescent (use hazard)
Thanks!
+1
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The bulbs were located on ebay after much searching and the help of other posters here since the bulbs are not a plain 1156 bulb but have a 150 degree pin set rather than straight across pin set. The link is 2 X 7507 1156PY BAU15S Amber 50W Projection Front Turn Signal LED Light BMW Mini. They provide light that is noticeably brighter than stock but they do cause the quick blinking rather than normal blink sequence and I will need to replace the stock blinker module, just haven't decided yet that the higher rate blink isn't more noticable than standard. No pictures yet. I can't get a photo that really shows the difference but it is noticeable in real like.
With regard to the post by Rocknrod, what is the service manual referring to as the "middle fairing".
Fork
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Probably http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-7507-1156PY-BAU15S-Amber-50W-Projection-Front-Turn-Signal-LED-Light-BMW-Mini-/361001764187?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item540d61c55b&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-7507-1156PY-BAU15S-Amber-50W-Projection-Front-Turn-Signal-LED-Light-BMW-Mini-/361001764187?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item540d61c55b&vxp=mtr) based on your description.
Of course, it is impossible for it to be "50W". It is a lie, which is why I am so bothers by such listings. And in their video, they APPEAR to be less bright than incandescent. Do you really think they are brighter? One thing is for sure, they carefully list the strange pin offset.
I would really love to see a video clip of your bike showing both lights in hazard mode with LED installed on only one side.
To answer your question- the middle fairing is the one with the fins. The upper has the logo. The lower is the black matte.
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Yes, please share the video. I am interested in doing this as well.
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Obviously the reference to 50W is the merchants opinion of a subjective comparison to the standard bulb, but they are noticeably brighter to my eye. I'll see about a video but it will be a week or two before I can get back home to the bike. The problem with photographing the difference is that the real test(especially with LED's) is not brightness in the dark but in bright sunlight and that is really tough to show on a photograph. Typically LED's may appear dramatically brighter in the dark or with a dark background but when the sun is shining on the application they do not appear nearly as bright. I'll see what I can do.
Fork
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Obviously the reference to 50W is the merchants opinion of a subjective comparison to the standard bulb,
Exactly. But on many sites it is presented as fact. And on others they make up bogus lumen ratings. Even as a subjective comparison I have seen silly lighting claims and the observed the bulbs as being dimmer or barely even as bright as the incandescents they were meant to replace... so I am extremely skeptical about ALL such claims now.
but they are noticeably brighter to my eye. I'll see about a video but it will be a week or two before I can get back home to the bike. The problem with photographing the difference is that the real test(especially with LED's) is not brightness in the dark but in bright sunlight and that is really tough to show on a photograph. Typically LED's may appear dramatically brighter in the dark or with a dark background but when the sun is shining on the application they do not appear nearly as bright.
Right you are. It really is a difficult task. The first main problem is that it is imperative to see both bulbs (old/new) on at the same time and with similar front and back lighting. Doing it in the daytime is best. And video instead of photo is also best (getting a photo with both on, and at full brightness is a challenge when they are blinking!) And angle is important also with LED, since light distribution is often dismal.
I'll see what I can do.
Thanks, I am waiting with fingers crossed :)
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Exactly. But on many sites it is presented as fact. And on others they make up bogus lumen ratings. Even as a subjective comparison I have seen silly lighting claims and the observed the bulbs as being dimmer or barely even as bright as the incandescents they were meant to replace... so I am extremely skeptical about ALL such claims now.
Have you ever been to the flea market (old days) and seen the boom boxes that run of batteries but the stickers say 500 watts? Same idea. ::)
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Hopefully someone who "gets" this stuff better than I do can chime in....
Different websites I've seen selling these say that if the LED bulb is doing the 'fast-blinky' thing (hopefully not too technical a term...), it can be resolved by adding a "load resistor" to the circuit.
Is this is in series or parallel with the bulb...? (and for bonus points - Why?)
Jamie
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The turn signal unit or flasher is load dependent, it needs a certain amount of current to function. Many bikes are designed to flash at a faster rate if a bulb is burned out. Since LEDs draw much less current, your flasher unit may act as if a bulb is out and flash at the faster rate. If you replace either the front or the rear turn signals with LEDs, you will typically need to add a load equalizer. If you replace both front and rear with LEDS, you will typically need 2 load equalizers. Many bikes have a 2 or 3 wire flasher that can be replaced with our non-load dependent flashers, these flashers are not self canceling but replaces the need for a load equalizer.
From: http://www.customdynamics.com/led_motorcycle_lighting_faqs.htm (http://www.customdynamics.com/led_motorcycle_lighting_faqs.htm)
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Hopefully someone who "gets" this stuff better than I do can chime in....
Different websites I've seen selling these say that if the LED bulb is doing the 'fast-blinky' thing (hopefully not too technical a term...), it can be resolved by adding a "load resistor" to the circuit.
Is this is in series or parallel with the bulb...? (and for bonus points - Why?)
Jamie
Don't bother with the load resistors... they can heat up and are just a pain (you have to splice it into the wiring). I got a LED flasher relay at the local Cycle Gear and it worked like a charm... stock location under the seat. http://www.cyclegear.com/SPEEDMETAL-Flash-LED-Relay (http://www.cyclegear.com/SPEEDMETAL-Flash-LED-Relay)... I think it even said definitely says "Kawasaki" on the packaging side of the relay... and I'm sure there are other manufacturers and ways to get one. I just zip tied it to the frame where the stock one was.
Or this one from Motorcycle Superstore...http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/67453/i/dmp-led-flasher-relay?WT.ac=SLIsearch (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/67453/i/dmp-led-flasher-relay?WT.ac=SLIsearch)
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this one works ok too: http://www.customled.com/products/elfr-1-electronic-led-flasher-relay (http://www.customled.com/products/elfr-1-electronic-led-flasher-relay)
i've used it for many years on my previous bikes.
plug-and-play, just need to find somewhere to zip tie the relay to the frame. if one of the bulbs or led burns out, you won't get any warning though. it will still blink at the same rate.
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So, an interesting solution to the fast blink rate and lack of self cancelling signals. How many pins does the OEM signal relay contain? If it's a two pin relay then there is a LED turn signal relay that sounds off much like a reverse signal on some trucks. Makes so much noise that the reviews are talking about ways to silence it. That would work for me, maybe I would get conditioned to cancel the signals. But it is only available in a two pin configuration. I haven't pulled my relay yet, so can anyone tell me on a 2012 ABS C-14, what is the pin out for the relay?
Fork
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Don't bother with the load resistors... they can heat up and are just a pain (you have to splice it into the wiring). I got a LED flasher relay at the local Cycle Gear and it worked like a charm... stock location under the seat. http://www.cyclegear.com/SPEEDMETAL-Flash-LED-Relay (http://www.cyclegear.com/SPEEDMETAL-Flash-LED-Relay)... I think it even said definitely says "Kawasaki" on the packaging side of the relay... and I'm sure there are other manufacturers and ways to get one. I just zip tied it to the frame where the stock one was.
Or this one from Motorcycle Superstore...http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/67453/i/dmp-led-flasher-relay?WT.ac=SLIsearch (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/67453/i/dmp-led-flasher-relay?WT.ac=SLIsearch)
Unfortuantely, this thread went idle. I was hoping to see comparisons of some LED replacement bulbs....
Anyway, I am now interested in this flasher you posted/mentioned:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/67453/i/dmp-led-flasher-relay?WT.ac=SLIsearch (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/67453/i/dmp-led-flasher-relay?WT.ac=SLIsearch)
It is the cheapest by far, and from a site I already do business with. Are you saying I can replace a single relay with no splicing and bam- it controls all turn signals AND emergency flashers? (My load resistor failed and I am having some issues again and this might be the easiest solution).
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Unfortuantely, this thread went idle. I was hoping to see comparisons of some LED replacement bulbs....
Anyway, I am now interested in this flasher you posted/mentioned:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/67453/i/dmp-led-flasher-relay?WT.ac=SLIsearch (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/67453/i/dmp-led-flasher-relay?WT.ac=SLIsearch)
It is the cheapest by far, and from a site I already do business with. Are you saying I can replace a single relay with no splicing and bam- it controls all turn signals AND emergency flashers? (My load resistor failed and I am having some issues again and this might be the easiest solution).
I have a blank day tomorrow, so I'll pull the panel off my bike and get some images of the one I found, and see if I can find a model number or something... And the pin situation, as I recall the relay only uses 2 of the 3 factory wires (maybe that's why others have reported the loss of a burnt lamp indication, which shouldn't much matter with LED bulbs). But, I'm certain that I got it at Cycle Gear back in 2011, and it has a sticker on it that says Kawasaki.
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Here are pics of mine... Definitely the 2-wire piece. No other marking on the case of it, other than the big yellow sticker.
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn143/kiruvetat/Kawasaki/A5D7E450-A6EC-4F51-9892-ADB0B8B20AE9.jpg)
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn143/kiruvetat/Kawasaki/22A6E811-15B6-488F-A0D1-82FBC14EFF48.jpg)
Here's a link to it on the Cycle Gear site... http://www.cyclegear.com/SPEEDMETAL-LED-Signal-Relay (http://www.cyclegear.com/SPEEDMETAL-LED-Signal-Relay)
They show on option for Honda, Kawasaki and Yamaha.
Factory unit has 3 wires, but I've had this thing on my bike for 3 years without issue... and I do check occasionally to make sure all my lights work.
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Add an LED light bar to the back of the bike and you have LED blinkers/running/stop lights. Makes you much more visible from behind too! I add 2 light bars to my bike...both flash 3 times when I apply the brakes before going solid.
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Add an LED light bar to the back of the bike and you have LED blinkers/running/stop lights. Makes you much more visible from behind too! I add 2 light bars to my bike...both flash 3 times when I apply the brakes before going solid.
Yep, I have a blinking admore bar on the plate just like that (I think you followed my posting about it and copied?) and use the reflective squares on the back of the panniers. But my need is to perfect FRONT visibility, which is why I turned my turn signals in to full-time running lights which blink OFF for turning instead of blinking on. Works great, except that they are freaking hot (which is why I want LED, but nobody makes a replacement bulb that is as good as incandescent) and I have to use load resistors to make the blinker work (and one is not working). So the concept of a replacement blinker relay that doesn't use wattage to make it blink is still very attractive.
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Add an LED light bar to the back of the bike and you have LED blinkers/running/stop lights. Makes you much more visible from behind too! I add 2 light bars to my bike...both flash 3 times when I apply the brakes before going solid.
Which one is the top one? That's long and slim and looks cool.
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Which one is the top one? That's long and slim and looks cool.
Although it does look cool, my recommendation would be that the much lower plate one is far better, because it is much further away from the stock light.... Just sayin' :)
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I have a Vololight frame around the license plate already, so adding that around the plate would be too much.
I could not remember the name "Vololight" so when I was going through my posts to figure that out, I saw I made this post which I think answers my own question about the long and slim LED's:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=16644.msg204399#msg204399 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=16644.msg204399#msg204399)
(AST C14 LED taillight and blinkers)
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Which one is the top one? That's long and slim and looks cool.
The top one is from AST...his "LED Bar Version 2". It was one of the orders I was able to get from him. I'm trying to buy the 2" pullback risers but can't get ahold of him right now. Too nervous to buy from AST without contact first!
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The top one is from AST...his "LED Bar Version 2". It was one of the orders I was able to get from him. I'm trying to buy the 2" pullback risers but can't get ahold of him right now. Too nervous to buy from AST without contact first!
Agreed. I have heard too many stories on here.
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Interesting article... http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/bmw-led-load-resistor/ (http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/bmw-led-load-resistor/)
Couple things to note in the article:
1. Clean option for standard load resistors. Much better than the bare ceramic ones, but not as convenient as the relay.
2. Some side-by-side photos of a couple different designs of LED tower lamps, compared to incandescent.
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Do we have Can Bus or Non Can Bus Led bulbs?
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Non- CAN bus. They are just plain old 1156- type incandescent lamps, nothing fancy. Check that part number first though as I am not 100% sure it is an 1156 (that is the right base but the actual lamp number may be different, different wattage, etc.).
By the way, the originals are not LED but incandescent. Stock, only the taillight and the instrument lights are LED on a C-14.
Brian
Do we have Can Bus or Non Can Bus Led bulbs?
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Brian,
You are an asset to this forum
Thank you
Joe
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Thanks for the kind words but.... Joe? Aren't you Alex? I am confused.... do we have two people using the forum with the handle Gigantor? Are you both truly Gigantic (Alex absolutely IS gigantic)?
Brian
Brian,
You are an asset to this forum
Thank you
Joe
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Non- CAN bus. They are just plain old 1156- type incandescent lamps, nothing fancy. Check that part number first though as I am not 100% sure it is an 1156 (that is the right base but the actual lamp number may be different, different wattage, etc.).
By the way, the originals are not LED but incandescent. Stock, only the taillight and the instrument lights are LED on a C-14.
Brian
What he said...
So, the benefit to our bikes would simply be to control the fast blink rates with aftermarket LED signal bulbs... nothing with the rest of the electronics, yes? In reading that particular product, it seems they HAVE to use them with the BMW's CAN-BUS system because of the lower resistance of the LEDs... creates other electronic "fun" without them.
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Thanks for the kind words but.... Joe? Aren't you Alex? I am confused.... do we have two people using the forum with the handle Gigantor? Are you both truly Gigantic (Alex absolutely IS gigantic)?
Brian
My name is Joe and there is only one Gigantor on this forum.
Peace
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Interesting coincidence- I know a Gigantor from another forum and just assumed that you were him.... Now that there are two of you around we should race you guys (what is the first thing you do when you find a second turtle.... Race Them!).
I will assume that you really are gigantic. 'Other Gigantor' certainly is- he must be 6'5" or 6'6", and he is very tall as well. :rotflmao:
Brian
My name is Joe and there is only one Gigantor on this forum.
Peace
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I cannot speak about any product but I can say that while C-14's do indeed have CAN bus, it is not used in any system that the owner would or could tinker with or alter by mistake. In other words, there are external systems on the C-14 that are operated by CAN bus, such as lighting systems, dimmer systems, etc. CAN bus on a C-14 is used only between sealed electronic systems to transfer data and none of those systems are available nor should they be interfered with after manufacture.
All the lighting systems on a C-14 are simple, 'old school' systems that can be tinkered with with no chance of having any effect on any of the bike's internal (Easy Boys!) electronics.
Brian
What he said...
So, the benefit to our bikes would simply be to control the fast blink rates with aftermarket LED signal bulbs... nothing with the rest of the electronics, yes? In reading that particular product, it seems they HAVE to use them with the BMW's CAN-BUS system because of the lower resistance of the LEDs... creates other electronic "fun" without them.
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They are just plain old 1156- type incandescent lamps
Indeed. But since the bulbs are amber, remember they have the pins offset, so you need a special European-style bulb to fit properly. Clear 1156 bulbs have the pins at 180ยบ. Those offset bulbs are hard to get, but you can definitely find LED ones that fit properly.
I'd NEVER mess with the wiring on any vehicle, and that's the reason I have left alone the turn-signals. But I'd LOVE to replace them with LED bulbs (properly functioning, not hyperflashing), but that'd mean a special relay. Is there such a thing for the C14 that somebody has PERSONAL EXPERIENCE with? If yes, please post details of which relay solved your hyperflashing LED turn-signal problem. Many thanks.
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... Is there such a thing for the C14 that somebody has PERSONAL EXPERIENCE with? If yes, please post details of which relay solved your hyperflashing LED turn-signal problem. Many thanks.
Re-read my post on page 2, I gave links and pictures.
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Re-read my post on page 2, I gave links and pictures.
Missed it man; thanks a milliion. But have a few more questions; hope you don't mind ;D:
1. Which LED bulbs did you install? A link would help. I usually use superbrightleds.com. Problem with amber LEDs is they're dim compared to white. But I don't like the 'coated' ones sold by VLEDS and others. I'd only install true amber LEDs, that have comparable intensity to the 1156 incandescent bulbs front and side.
2. Which plastic panels did you need to remove to install the relay? And did you figure out what the 3rd wire was for? It's definitely not for a burned-out dash warning for the turn-signals you mentioned, since the warning for those is the hyperflashing itself. I'll try to figure it out when I get it, since I should have the service manual by then. But glad to hear it doesn't seem to have any effect on anything important. Which color is the unused wire, by the way? Thx.
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Which LED bulbs did you install? A link would help. I usually use superbrightleds.com. Problem with amber LEDs is they're dim compared to white.
That is exactly the problem, and why I am still waiting to find something at LEAST as bright as incandescent before making the jump. The two different ones I purchased and returned in the past were too dim (despite all the "ultra" and "super" and "mega" claims next to the word "bright").
The moment someone can identify such a bulb (one that is as bright or brighter), fits, and has a reasonable light throw in all needed directions, I will buy... my wallet is open and waiting.
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I have some land in the Dismal Swamp...
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Has anyone considered installing an 1157 receptical and bulb in the t/s housing? Or a 3157 or whatever. ..
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The moment someone can identify such a bulb (one that is as bright or brighter), fits, and has a reasonable light throw in all needed directions, I will buy... my wallet is open and waiting.
That makes the 2 of us ;). Not going to spend $100 (with the special blinker) to be less safe ;D. Unfortunately, RBX didn't feel like helping, and never took a 10-sec video with LED and incandescent side to side (takes a minute to replace a rear bulb). Oh well. I think he used the eBay ones ($30/pair). The only other bulbs are the 18T mentioned by webbikeworld (superbrightleds, $39/pair), but didn't do it side by side, and recording in a half-circle, to see how well they illuminate from the sides. Let's keep waiting brother.
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That makes the 2 of us ;). Not going to spend $100 (with the special blinker) to be less safe ;D. Unfortunately, RBX didn't feel like helping, and never took a 10-sec video with LED and incandescent side to side (takes a minute to replace a rear bulb). Oh well. I think he used the eBay ones ($30/pair). The only other bulbs are the 18T mentioned by webbikeworld (superbrightleds, $39/pair), but didn't do it side by side, and recording in a half-circle, to see how well they illuminate from the sides. Let's keep waiting brother.
Lot of interesting statements in there... I'm not on here EVERY day (just MOST of them).
The relay is under the long panel on the right side of the seat, so you remove the seat, small panel under the grab bars and rear tray, then the long panel. All in all, pretty easy to get to.
Not sure which bulbs I have (it was 4 years ago), but I don't buy anything on eBay. They may be the Superbrights mentioned, but I just don't recall. I know they're the taller tower-style bulb, not coated, and they're not as bright as the incandescent were. I'm still waiting for a good side by side comparison like the rest of you. I also have the smoked lenses on all 4 corners, which doesn't help the brightness issues.
No idea about the 3rd wire... Everything still works, so I haven't given it a second thought.
I'd take a video, but without an incandescent in one of the lamps, it won't properly represent the difference... And I'm not going to disassemble the back of my bike to do it. And I don't think I have any incandescent bulbs laying around.
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I'd take a video, but without an incandescent in one of the lamps, it won't properly represent the difference... And I'm not going to disassemble the back of my bike to do it.
You didn't keep the incandescent bulbs? And 'disassemble'? Puleeze ;D. It's just one philips screw and the rear housing is out. You could swap bulbs in less than a minute. I'd paypal you what a new bulb costs (plus your gas), but have the feeling the bulb is not the problem ;D. But hey, we understand. If you could at least take a picture of the bulb to know which one it is, it'd be greatly appreciated, since many of us don't want a dimmer bulb just for the sake of having LEDs. Thanks man.
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You didn't keep the incandescent bulbs? And 'disassemble'? Puleeze ;D. It's just one philips screw and the rear housing is out. You could swap bulbs in less than a minute. I'd paypal you what a new bulb costs (plus your gas), but have the feeling the bulb is not the problem ;D. But hey, we understand. If you could at least take a picture of the bulb to know which one it is, it'd be greatly appreciated, since many of us don't want a dimmer bulb just for the sake of having LEDs. Thanks man.
You're pushing all my buttons, aren't ya? I'm supposed to be asleep right now.
I have to admit, I've had this bike for 4 years and never realized that 1 screw was all that was needed for the rear lenses... Last time I worked on those I had the whole thing apart to install the Hypers, so that was the process I had in my head. Everything apart for the paint job, but I never noticed that one... dammit.
So, to satisfy you... And try to save face:
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn143/kiruvetat/Kawasaki/BD48ADA3-DCF8-4D8B-B2AC-4E00ECF20441.jpg)
Couldn't find a brand printed on it.
I took one pic of them blinking, you can kinda compare them to the brake (just the running light)...
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn143/kiruvetat/Kawasaki/09D41105-6803-4A64-85B8-D3C0CCF8698F.jpg)
Next time I have the bike out (in the daylight) I'll take a video to show them in sunlight, to help gauge the visibility. But like I said before, I have smoked lenses, so take these with a grain of salt.
And no, I don't have the bulbs since I moved in the iast year... I purged some of the stuff I didn't need anymore, but I'll gladly accept your money, now that I realize it's just a single screw in the way... and post a comparison.
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Thanks man; appreciate the help. Unfortunately, can't find that bulb anywhere, so it makes little sense to compare it to an incandescent. Was hoping it was the one from superbrightleds.com, which is the one below (the only one available with a european base):
https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/tail-brake-turn/filter/Cross_Reference_Number,BAU15S,21,196:?view=standard (https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/tail-brake-turn/filter/Cross_Reference_Number,BAU15S,21,196:?view=standard)
Yours is too long, and doesn't have the newer high-powered LEDs. VLEDS doesn't list a similar one, but last time I bought a pair of 'hi-vis' for the city lights, they had coated white LEDs, and looked like crap. Just washed-out white with an ugly orangy tint. You need amber LEDs, but light output will always be less. Those above might be equivalent to the 21W incandescent, but we'll never know until somebody tries them ;D.
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... Yours is too long, and doesn't have the newer high-powered LEDs. ...
Yeah, I remember that I was worried they weren't going to fit, especially in the front (the smoked fronts don't have as much room as the stock clear ones). I looked at the Superbright site and had the same conclusion that these weren't there.
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I know the rear blinkers 1156 have the BAU15S base. Does the 1157 fronts have
the same 150deg base or does it have the regular 180deg base.
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I know the rear blinkers 1156 have the BAU15S base. Does the 1157 fronts have
the same 150deg base or does it have the regular 180deg base.
I can't answer definitively, but I think it would be beyond crazy if they were not the same.
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I believe they are both the same and 180 degrees apart on the retaining pins. The difference is that an 1157 is a dual filament bulb and has dual contacts on the bottom while an 1156 is a single filament and only has a single contact on the bottom.
Brian
I know the rear blinkers 1156 have the BAU15S base. Does the 1157 fronts have
the same 150deg base or does it have the regular 180deg base.
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The rear blinkers have a BAU15S 150deg base on the 2014 C14. I just want to know if the front blinkers are also BAU15S 150deg
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Gigantor - yes, the front and rear bulbs are the same.
Fork
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The rear blinkers have a BAU15S 150deg base on the 2014 C14. I just want to know if the front blinkers are also BAU15S 150deg
By DOT rules, an amber 1156 bulb needs to have a BAU15S base, to prevent accidentally installing a clear bulb with a clear lens (illegal). You can find tons of LED amber lights with the regular 1156 base (for those changing from amber to clear lenses). But unfortunately, BAU15S amber LED bulbs are very hard to find; just a few choices.
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Anyway, I am now interested in this flasher you posted/mentioned:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/67453/i/dmp-led-flasher-relay?WT.ac=SLIsearch (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/67453/i/dmp-led-flasher-relay?WT.ac=SLIsearch)
It is the cheapest by far, and from a site I already do business with. Are you saying I can replace a single relay with no splicing and bam- it controls all turn signals AND emergency flashers? (My load resistor failed and I am having some issues again and this might be the easiest solution).
It took a while before I was ready to buy, since I wanted free shipping (but had to buy some shields and things too). Well, I got in the above part and installed it and it is GREAT! Turn signals work and the emergency flashers work just like they should! No diode needed (at least not in my setup). It is strange that the OEM flasher is three conductor but the solid state replacement one is only two conductor (on two wires in the three conductor plug).
I am posting photos of the procedure below. Note there is a hidden screw that has to be removed after "remove2.jpg" which is under that cover, but not shown. Note that there is nothing to hold the new flasher inside the rubber mount, so I just drilled a hole right through the assembly and put in a screw.
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rest of the pics
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It is strange that the OEM flasher is three conductor but the solid state replacement one is only two conductor (on two wires in the three conductor plug).
Finally got my hands on a wire diagram. That 3rd wire is responsible for triggering the hyperflashing when one of the bulbs burns out, so it's not needed. But if one of your new turn-signal bulbs crap out with that aftermarket relay, you wouldn't know, and could be dangerous. Therefore, check them regularly for your own safety.
Hey Maxtog, I'd be embarrassed to show those HUGE chicken strips on the above photos man. Ha ha. Just giving you a hard time. Probably just new tires, no? If I wasn't leaning this beast to the peg feelers, I'd just ride a touring bike; much more comfortable ;). Anyway, with those tires, you can lean the bike all the way to their edges with full confidence. Just took my bike on its first trip, and based on so many negative testimonials of the stock tires, I started leaning it cautiously. But quickly progressed to the edge of the tires, almost scraping, and not a single hiccup. So will finish them off before switching to the awesome PRs like yours. I can only imagine how much better it will feel. Never been a fan of crapstones, but these are the best OEM such tires I've had on a bike, so pleasantly surprised I could enjoy my new bike the way I want with those tires. I'm still on break-in, so didn't put much torque on them on corner exits. I'm sure I'll find them lacking there, so will be careful. Take care.
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Hey Maxtog, I'd be embarrassed to show those HUGE chicken strips on the above photos man. Ha ha. Just giving you a hard time. Probably just new tires, no? If I wasn't leaning this beast to the peg feelers, I'd just ride a touring bike;
The tires are pretty new, but most of my riding is done following a friend, who rides pretty slowly. But even alone, I don't push cornering near what the bike is capable of.
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It took a while before I was ready to buy, since I wanted free shipping (but had to buy some shields and things too). Well, I got in the above part and installed it and it is GREAT! Turn signals work and the emergency flashers work just like they should! No diode needed (at least not in my setup). It is strange that the OEM flasher is three conductor but the solid state replacement one is only two conductor (on two wires in the three conductor plug)
The link on the above threads is no longer valid. So for those still trying to find it, the part is:
Dynamic Moto Power 579009 and/or 900-5515 It is almost plug and play (do need to mount it).
I did find it here: https://www.dreyermotorsports.com/dynamic-moto-power-led-flasher-relay-detail.htm?productId=20795076 (https://www.dreyermotorsports.com/dynamic-moto-power-led-flasher-relay-detail.htm?productId=20795076) and on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/DMP-Motorcycle-Flasher-Yamaha-Kawasaki/dp/B00M9NGTCO (https://www.amazon.com/DMP-Motorcycle-Flasher-Yamaha-Kawasaki/dp/B00M9NGTCO)
Have been using it now for over 3 years.