Latching the saddlebags? Issue?

[stevewfl]

I'm starting to better understand the flying bag syndrome after reading this thread.

33,000 miles and mine are still hanging on and I've done nothing to protect them except ask the wimenz to be careful and not kick 'em while getting on and off the big behemoth bike

[jonathan]

It looks like you have an aftermarket shock air canister mounted in a space that may be interferring with proper mounting of the bags.

I'm pretty sure that's the stock rear preload adjuster.

[SVonhof]

Stopped by the dealer today and they quoted $250 for labor and $720 for a new subframe.

$250 is less than I figured it would be, but the $720 for the subframe is really ridiculous.

They did recommend calling the "frame man" in Sacramento. He specializes in straightening motorcycle frames. Either that or using my insurance for what it is meant for.

[tbanzer]

If it was mine I would use an adjustable wrench and bend it back in place. Brush a little paint on it and keep an eye on it. Probably out last the bike as long as its not dropped again. Find a good weld shop and have them disconnect the battery and lay a couple of passes on it with a MIG welder if it moves again.

[SVonhof]

I am going to see what I can do to bend it back and see how that goes. That will help me decide if I need to do anything else with it. I might get to that tomorrow or Sunday, we shall see.
I will report back.

[C1xRider]

Stopped by the dealer today and they quoted $250 for labor and $720 for a new subframe.

$250 is less than I figured it would be, but the $720 for the subframe is really ridiculous.

They did recommend calling the "frame man" in Sacramento. He specializes in straightening motorcycle frames. Either that or using my insurance for what it is meant for.

$250 is less than I expected too, although it shouldn't be more than 2 or 3 hours of work, so given typical shop rates, that's probably a good price.

I suppose you could always ask them about you buying it somewhere else, and letting them install it.

Personally though, I would go for the idea tbanzer proposed.  If you could not move it with a small hammer, then it should be solid enough to put a big crescent / adjustable wrench on it and bend it back out.  You might even need a piece of pipe on the end of the wrench, to provide more leverage.  If it breaks, then either get it welded or you are back where you were earlier, having it replaced.

[Conrad]

snip.....

I looked at this job on mine awhile back because it is tweaked / twisted from the factory.  One side is higher than the other by a noticeable amount.  When I installed Phil's Rack, I had to shim it with washers to get it to work.  Without them, the rack was warping so badly, my case would not mount properly.

Wait a minute. The frame on your 2010 came from the factory twisted? What did your dealer have to say about this?

[C1xRider]

Wait a minute. The frame on your 2010 came from the factory twisted? What did your dealer have to say about this?

 

That's a good one Conrad!  I really had a good laugh from reading it.

Seriously, the dealers look at the bike and say "What problem?".  They can barely be convinced to address blatant, obvious problems like warped brake rotors.

Yes, the rear section of the frame (small diameter, welded tubing) is twisted.  It causes the rack to bend severely when bolted down.  I had to add shim washers to use Phil's rack, as it warped it so badly (and my top case mount), that my top case would not even mount to the mounting plate.  If I stand behind the bike, I can tell one saddle bag sits higher than the other.  To most, it probably appears to be an optical illusion, but I have measured it to be certain.

I suppose if I could find a spec for frame dimensions with the max limits allowed by the factory, like they provide for automobiles, and prove to a dealer it was out of spec, then I could get them to fix it.  I've never seen anything like this for motorcycles, and the 2010 FSM has nothing like that in it (that I have found).

[Conrad]

That's a good one Conrad!  I really had a good laugh from reading it.

Seriously, the dealers look at the bike and say "What problem?".  They can barely be convinced to address blatant, obvious problems like warped brake rotors.

Yes, the rear section of the frame (small diameter, welded tubing) is twisted.  It causes the rack to bend severely when bolted down.  I had to add shim washers to use Phil's rack, as it warped it so badly (and my top case mount), that my top case would not even mount to the mounting plate.  If I stand behind the bike, I can tell one saddle bag sits higher than the other.  To most, it probably appears to be an optical illusion, but I have measured it to be certain.

I suppose if I could find a spec for frame dimensions with the max limits allowed by the factory, like they provide for automobiles, and prove to a dealer it was out of spec, then I could get them to fix it.  I've never seen anything like this for motorcycles, and the 2010 FSM has nothing like that in it (that I have found).

That's crazy!

[koval68]

I am going to see what I can do to bend it back and see how that goes. That will help me decide if I need to do anything else with it. I might get to that tomorrow or Sunday, we shall see.
I will report back.

Before you do that,PM Haroldo, he'll be more than happy to be of assistance......

[SVonhof]

Before you do that,PM Haroldo, he'll be more than happy to be of assistance......

Is he good at bending things?  What am I missing?

[Conrad]

Is he good at bending things?  What am I missing?

Oh yeah, he's good at bending things! Usually not on purpose though.

[SVonhof]

I removed the extra washers, nuts and screws and put the stock ones back on and also moved the reservoir for the rear suspension and tried bending the tab this evening. I couldn't do it by hand with the stock bracket but I did pull off a pipe that is used for my floor jack. I was able to place the narrow end inside the hollow section of the bracket and bend it back slowly. I did break part of the aluminum off the cast passenger footpeg bracket, but it won't affect the structural element of the bracket in my mind. To make sure I didn't break it completely, I did get some wood and put it between the bracket and the pipe to insulate the bracket some and that helped get me more leverage.
I held onto the bike and had the pipe in the bend where my pelvis is and pulled my body toward the bike and also pushed with my right foot. I probably bent it 10 different times to get it back to it's normal position, which is way better than doing it all at once. Now, when I try to latch the saddlebag, it takes just slight pressure with the handle (on the saddlebag) to get it to latch.

I think I am good to go for now.  I will end up replacing the stock passenger pegs with probably some Vario pegs (see link: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1944.0) so we will see how the whole thing holds up when my wife gets on the bike with those as that will apply a little more pressure to the welded tab.

[SVonhof]

Here is what the bracket looks like now with the two dinged up sections from my bending exercise:

[C1xRider]

For the top part, if anyone asks, just call it a 'mouse bite'.  Should not affect anything structurally, it's just cosmetic.  I'll bet with some JB Weld (and the missing piece), and some black coloring, no one would notice.

For the lower marks, a little precision filing of the burrs and some black coloring, should make it invisible in all but direct sunlight.

Or, you could just surf eBay, where you might find a replacement one cheap.

[SVonhof]

Or, you could just surf eBay, where you might find a replacement one cheap.

If anything, that is the route I will take.