Ran into a problem installing the front Canyon Cage's

[TallyRex]

We used an allen socket head with a breaker bar and broke the first one but had a spare.  Then we ground off all the red locktite on the original bolt and put it back in and took if out again and then cleaned off more locktite.  It's important to get all of the old locktite out of there so you don't strip the thread.

Before you take a torch to it, try a hair dryer.

We used blue locktite on the new bolts (the CCs will have to be removed for valve adjusts, etc)

[CrashGordon]

I'm using an allen socket with a breaker bar--or I was untill I ruined two of them.

Is a hair dryer going to get hotter than the engine does? I would think you'd need more heat.

[RyanMCEnterprises]

I'm using an allen socket with a breaker bar--or I was untill I ruined two of them.

Is a hair dryer going to get hotter than the engine does? I would think you'd need more heat.

I'd personally be careful using heat, especially because the Loctite is pretty deep in there and it's tough stuff. Your best bet, as previously mentioned, would be to purchase a tap and just clean it that way if you really want to be thorough. Also, when you remove the original bolt, a good idea is to clean it then reenter it and take it back out again. That will help clean some of the residual Loctite but it won't take care of it completely. Your best bet is definitely going to be using a tap. It's a good idea to get as much of that original Loctite out of there because the hardware we supply is such high grade that it can strip those aluminum engine points if you're not careful, as some people have learned the hard way. Don't forget, you can always call us directly and speak to myself or the Tech if you have any questions.

[CrashGordon]

I'm not talking about getting the Locktite out, I'm talking about getting the original engine mount bolt out. It won't budge. Right side came out with effort and I was easily able to clean out the residual thread lock. Left side is frozen solid in place. Will heating the engine mount bolt do anything to free it up?

[VirginiaJim]

I don't think it would hurt it unless you melted it.

[RyanMCEnterprises]

I'm not talking about getting the Locktite out, I'm talking about getting the original engine mount bolt out. It won't budge. Right side came out with effort and I was easily able to clean out the residual thread lock. Left side is frozen solid in place. Will heating the engine mount bolt do anything to free it up?

Ohhh, I'm sorry. I misunderstood you and got your question mixed up with someone else that was asking about removing the residual Loctite once you actually get the bolts out. As VirginiaJim said, I don't think heating the bolt itself would hurt (as long as you don't completely roast the thing) but I also don't think it would help all that much. I suppose it's worth a shot, though. I'll call my contact at Kawasaki Corporate and see if he has any tips to loosening that hardware. Once I have a chance to talk to him I'll be sure to share my findings.

This is slightly off-topic but I think the reason some people are having trouble with this and others aren't is due to the actual amount of Loctite used on your individual bike. I'm assuming the Loctite on their bolts is added by hand which means there's going to be varying amounts on every individual bike. Some will have more, some will have less. I think this has a direct correlation with how tough that hardware is to remove. Not like this helps anyone, though. It's just an interesting theory.

[Conrad]

In reading this thread it seems that the 2nd gen bikes are having more of an issue with this than the 1st gens.

 

[CrashGordon]

Don't know if that's true, Conrad, but mine's a 2009 model. When I took the right side bolt out, the entire thread surface was covered in red Locktite. And there was so much residual gunk in the engine mounting hole, I couldn't see all the way through it.

[maxtog]

I just don't understand why Kawasaki thought so much locktite was necessary.  Really- is there any risk of the bolts coming loose without tons of thread lock?  How about without any??

[Madcow]

Instead of heating the bolt maybe if you start the bike & run it until the fan comes on then try to loosen the bolts.

[VirginiaJim]

But there wouldn't be any flames that way..

[julianm]

I wasn't sure if heat would help but I can put some heat on it if it will. The right side gave with a lot of muscle and there was resistance over the entire thread until the bolt was out. Thread lock covered THE ENTIRE THREAD SURFACE! Left side will not budge and now my allen driver won't engage the hex head enough to turn it before slipping. I'm using a breaker bar that will give me enough torque to turn the bolt, I just can't engage the bolt now.

Had a similar problem on my 2010 RHS. My allen socket with a breaker bar started to round out the inside of the hex head and the bolt was not turning.
I then used an impact driver with the allen socket and that moved it after a couple of good wacks.

[CrashGordon]

Success. But it didn't come easy (or cheap). Finally got the left side engine mount bolt out using an impact wrench and a set of bolt removers from Sears called Grip Tite drivers. Didn't use any flame--sorry, Jim. On the plus side, I know have a set of Grip Tite drivers and an impact wrench!

I would warn anyone attempting this install that you will be way ahead of the game if you have an impact wrench. If you're just using a breaker bar, be sure you have a good lock between your allen driver and the bolt. Mine slipped the first time I tried to turn it and all of my woes (and tool purchases) that followed were a result of that. The impact wrench really turns this into a fairly quick job.

[RIP50AK]

I would warn anyone attempting this install that you will be way ahead of the game if you have an impact wrench.

I'm getting ready to do this finally. What is the ft lbs rating of the impact wrech you used?

[Conrad]

I would warn anyone attempting this install that you will be way ahead of the game if you have an impact wrench.

I'm getting ready to do this finally. What is the ft lbs rating of the impact wrech you used?

I don't have an impact wrench nor was one needed when I installed my Canyon Cages. I was ready for the bolts to be hard to get out but in my case they were not.

[Rhino]

I don't have an impact wrench nor was one needed when I installed my Canyon Cages. I was ready for the bolts to be hard to get out but in my case they were not.

Me neither. I've put mine on and off several times and never had a problem.

[CrashGordon]

I have an electric impact wrench with a rating of 350 ft. lbs. of torque. It took a full one second on the trigger before the bolt spun out. Believe me when I say the left side was TIGHT!

After the initial bolt removal, all is good. I can remove and reinstall with no problems, though both sides had significant thread lock residue in them at first.

Having done it once, I have no doubt I could do it again in minutes. The most time consuming part now is removing the plastic. I did the "plastic surgery" that allows me to take the plastic off without removing the bars.

[pistole]

- imho , normally , would hesitate to use an impact wrench on engine mounting bolts which thread into the aluminium parts of the engine.

- but it seems that the threadlock used was excessive on some bikes ... ouch.

.

[Rhino]

Maybe it would be a good idea to use some sort of lubricant or anti-seize compound the first time. Put the bolts in-out a few times then clean the threads before torqueing. Maybe Ryan at MCE could add it as a cautionary note to the instructions.

[connie1]

I was just reading through the previous posts.  Short of buying an impact  maybe try an allen socket in a breaker bar, put enough torque on it till it's just short of breaking the bolt or socket then rap fimly with a hammer about 2 inches up the breaker bar.  It acts like an impact wrench, sometimes it works, but not definitely, especially with the gratuitous use of red locktite.

We used to have to remove a pulley from older model combines that were red locktited on.  Had to heat the whole 25 pound pulley glowing red and then use a massive puller just to get it to budge...I have hated red locktite ever since.

Good luck gentlemen.