Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: ssbraun on June 10, 2013, 02:23:43 PM
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Hi everyone,
I'm looking to purchase the 1400-410 / 1400-310 front and rear guards for my 2012. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find any! I've searched Ebay, Amazon, Google, and the only suppliers I've found are out of stock..I leave on a trip July 2, and really wanted to get these installed by then. Does anyone have any leads?! Time is short, so I know I've got to act quickly...
Thanks in advance....
Cheers!
Steve
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Have you tried MC Enterprises, directly?
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Have you tried MC Enterprises, directly?
+1 That's where we got ours on the last group buy.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8605.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8605.0)
Give Ryan a call and he'll hook you up. 866.886.2368
http://www.mcenterprisesusa.com/products/search/dsp_searchForm.cfm (http://www.mcenterprisesusa.com/products/search/dsp_searchForm.cfm)
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Have you tried MC Enterprises, directly?
Yes I have; I spoke to Ryan this afternoon....He's out of stock as well :(
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He's out of stock as well :(
??? That bites
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Yea, unfortunately the Canyon Cages are out of stock until 8/1. They've been selling like hot cakes so we've had a hell of a time keeping them on the shelf. We're working on another batch right now but they won't be finished in time for the OPs ride. :-[
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To the OP, don't fall down.
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Damn, now you did it.
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Yea, unfortunately the Canyon Cages are out of stock until 8/1. They've been selling like hot cakes so we've had a hell of a time keeping them on the shelf. We're working on another batch right now but they won't be finished in time for the OPs ride. :-[
Congrats- certainly was worth the time creating them!
I suggest the OP be very careful until he gets those things :)
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I got damn lucky. Purchased mine direct from MCE eight days ago and Teri said only had couple sets left.
Well designed and manufactured. Installed mine with fairings off; was pretty straight forward. Made the cuts on the top vent and went back on relatively easy; at least from what thought would be.
Definitely takes some stress off me having them on now.
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I did manage to find the front guards at a Canadian dealer and ordered them. The only rears he had were for the 08/09 models, and I'm guessing that the change from 7/8" to 1" was to improve the product, so I think my search will have to continue!
Thank you to those who offered suggestions!! ;D
Cheers!
Steve
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I got damn lucky. Purchased mine direct from MCE eight days ago and Teri said only had couple sets left.
Well designed and manufactured. Installed mine with fairings off; was pretty straight forward. Made the cuts on the top vent and went back on relatively easy; at least from what thought would be.
Definitely takes some stress off me having them on now.
You purchased guards for a 2008-2009 Connie though, correct? I just want to make sure we're comparing apples to apples here because the OP is looking for the 2010-2013 guards which is a completely different application. To my knowledge, we've been out of stock on the 2010-2013 Canyon Cages for nearly two weeks now but had some of the 2008-2009 Canyon Cages on the shelf.
I did manage to find the front guards at a Canadian dealer and ordered them. The only rears he had were for the 08/09 models, and I'm guessing that the change from 7/8" to 1" was to improve the product, so I think my search will have to continue!
Thank you to those who offered suggestions!! ;D
Cheers!
Steve
Nice! I hope you enjoy the guards! Actually, the only reason we changed the Canyon Cages from 7/8" to 1" was to make it easier for people to find suitable clamps to mount pegs. Since we changed the front, we had to change the rears to match. It had nothing to do with the structural capability of the bars, both sets are very capable of protecting the bike. I just don't want people thinking they have an inferior set if they have a 2008-2009 because that's definitely not the case.
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I just don't want people thinking they have an inferior set if they have a 2008-2009 because that's definitely not the case.
That is good to know Ryan! I will probably still hold out for the newer ones so they do match...
BTW two thumbs up to you for the outstanding communication!! :thumbs:
Cheers!
Steve
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That is good to know Ryan! I will probably still hold out for the newer ones so they do match...
BTW two thumbs up to you for the outstanding communication!! :thumbs:
Cheers!
Steve
Thank you, sir! I hope you enjoy the guards and hopefully you can find a set of matching rears sometime soon!
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Ryan,
I made sure I got the ones for a 2012 (410 and 310), confirmed the part numbers with Teri and shipped same day. Fit perfectly for my 2012. When spoke to her on the phone on June 3rd, said only had a couple left so I ordered them pronto! Invoice # 1306009 if want to confirm. Thx.
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Ryan, is it possible to reserve a set in this next batch that is being produced ??
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Ryan, is it possible to reserve a set in this next batch that is being produced ??
Money talks....
I bet if you pay for them, they could be yours!
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Ryan,
I made sure I got the ones for a 2012 (410 and 310), confirmed the part numbers with Teri and shipped same day. Fit perfectly for my 2012. When spoke to her on the phone on June 3rd, said only had a couple left so I ordered them pronto! Invoice # 1306009 if want to confirm. Thx.
Hmmm, that's interesting. You must have gotten extremely lucky. I'm guessing you probably snagged one of the only sets we had on the shelf. I hope you enjoy the guards, though!
Ryan, is it possible to reserve a set in this next batch that is being produced ??
Indeed it is! All you have to do is PM me, email me, or call us directly at the office and place your order. We'd need your full name, shipping address with zip/postal code, phone number, and payment information (we accept Visa, Mastercard, and Discover). Keep in mind, though, we do not charge you until the product is ready to be shipped out. That's really the best way to ensure you'll get a set from the next batch.
Money talks....
I bet if you pay for them, they could be yours!
Hahahaha! Money always talks! Although, we don't actually charge them until the product is ready to ship out. We just take a CC number during the order so we have it all ready to go when the accessories are in stock.
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ok thanks !!
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Ryan,
Forgive me if this has already been answered, but how much are you charging for the Canyon Cages and the rear bag guards? I'm interested in a full set for my 2013 Connie.
I checked your website, but I couldn't find any prices there. I'd like to know cost with shipping to 96789.
Like stated earlier, if I want to reserve a set, all I have to do is get in touch with you? Is August still the tentative release date? I don't mind waiting for a quality product. Thanks!
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Ryan,
Forgive me if this has already been answered, but how much are you charging for the Canyon Cages and the rear bag guards? I'm interested in a full set for my 2013 Connie.
I checked your website, but I couldn't find any prices there. I'd like to know cost with shipping to 96789.
Like stated earlier, if I want to reserve a set, all I have to do is get in touch with you? Is August still the tentative release date? I don't mind waiting for a quality product. Thanks!
For the 2013 Concours, the Canyon Cage is $300 and the Saddle Bag Guards are $175. Since you're a member of the forum, domestic shipping is on us! Unfortunately, there is a bit of a wait though. The next batch with guards that are still unsold will be completed on August 1st. If you'd like to order, you can do so via forum PM, email, or you can always call us direct at the office. Thanks for your interest in our guards!
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Ryan, I hope you got a raise over this Concours Canyon Cage thing. ;)
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Ryan, I hope you got a raise over this Concours Canyon Cage thing. ;)
Why thank you, I'll take that as a compliment! Nawww, I didn't, though. Although, I did get bragging rights! Building parts people will like is part of my job description. 8)
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+1 Ryan.
Your support on the forums has gained quite a few sales I believe. (I know that it's what got mine!)
For those waiting for them, it's well worth the wait. MCE is very upfront about things, and didn't charge my card until they were shipped.
Jeff
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+1 Ryan.
Your support on the forums has gained quite a few sales I believe. (I know that it's what got mine!)
For those waiting for them, it's well worth the wait. MCE is very upfront about things, and didn't charge my card until they were shipped.
Jeff
Thanks, Jeff! I appreciate the kind words and support we've received from all of you guys! ;D
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For the 2013 Concours, the Canyon Cage is $300 and the Saddle Bag Guards are $175. Since you're a member of the forum, domestic shipping is on us! Unfortunately, there is a bit of a wait though. The next batch with guards that are still unsold will be completed on August 1st. If you'd like to order, you can do so via forum PM, email, or you can always call us direct at the office. Thanks for your interest in our guards!
I got the Idea to buy these from this Forum, which I am newbie.
When I went to your website it provides a link for purchasing from a dealers, not direct sales.....
So,
I usually use Motorcycle Superstore for my online purchases. I wanted to use them for the "Rider Points" I had accumulated.
"We don't carry those" was the response I got. :(
I then Google'd it, and it came up with Dennis Kirk for a dealer. When I contacted them they had the cages but not the bars for the bags and that they also would not order them for me. ::)
I had spoke to Teri at your place about this. She just told me to order direct from you, which I'm planning to call in on Monday, since I have gotten no help at all from "Dealers".......
Pretty frustrating for what seems to be a really nice product.............
-Mark- 8)
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Wasn't frustrating for us. In fact it worked very well ordering from Ryan directly.
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In fact it worked very well ordering from Ryan directly.
Ryan rocks (even though he didn't show up at our National ;) )
He'll hook ya up.
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Wasn't frustrating for us. In fact it worked very well ordering from Ryan directly.
That's just it. MC Enterprises website does not provide for ordering direct.
I didn't know you needed the "Cone of Silence" from this forum to gain access to the products ;D
-Mark- 8)
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We worked with Ryan directly....through pm or email or telephone from what I recall. What is this website you speak of?
At any rate, all the details here as part of two group buys. One for the gen1 and one for the gen2 bikes.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=9386.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=9386.0)
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8605.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8605.0)
Not sure I understand the cone of silence reference but it is Saturday night and I'm so easily called away.
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I didn't know you needed the "Cone of Silence" from this forum to gain access to the products ;D
-Mark- 8)
Now you do Mark. :) :chugbeer:
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We worked with Ryan directly....through pm or email or telephone from what I recall. What is this website you speak of?
Not sure I understand the cone of silence reference but it is Saturday night and I'm so easily called away.
This website................ http://www.mcenterprisesusa.com/ (http://www.mcenterprisesusa.com/)
And perhaps you're not old enough >
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CC8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FCone_of_Silence&ei=XLZQUpzBKOqcigLMpICwBw&usg=AFQjCNFZMeMzg39HuHV6IB6ufcq2aSZRsQ&sig2=EZEyxPrxg6G2gusygmQrrw&bvm=bv.53537100,d.cGE (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CC8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FCone_of_Silence&ei=XLZQUpzBKOqcigLMpICwBw&usg=AFQjCNFZMeMzg39HuHV6IB6ufcq2aSZRsQ&sig2=EZEyxPrxg6G2gusygmQrrw&bvm=bv.53537100,d.cGE)
-Mark-
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Wow, thanks for the compliment! :finger_fing11:
Beneath my ruff and gnarled exterior is.......you guessed it.....a ruff and gnarled interior!
All kidding aside, the group buys did not go through the website. This was a one off (or actually two if you can't both generations) deal for us to get the bars made. Your best bet is to go through Ryan, but in order to get the same pricing you would need to generate some number of orders to get similar pricing. I don't think they have these just hanging on a rack.
Get Smart ran from 65-70. So I would have been 9-14 years of age and while I know what a cone of silence is, I still don't understand your reference of it and how it concerns this board.
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....but the secret handshake is another matter.
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I wasn't informed of that. I must have missed the memo. :doh:
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Wow, thanks for the compliment! :finger_fing11:
Beneath my ruff and gnarled exterior is.......you guessed it.....a ruff and gnarled interior!
All kidding aside, the group buys did not go through the website. This was a one off (or actually two if you can't both generations) deal for us to get the bars made. Your best bet is to go through Ryan, but in order to get the same pricing you would need to generate some number of orders to get similar pricing. I don't think they have these just hanging on a rack.
Get Smart ran from 65-70. So I would have been 9-14 years of age and while I know what a cone of silence is, I still don't understand your reference of it and how it concerns this board.
I was not looking for special treatment or deal. I just wanted to purchase them!
His "Dealers" are not that accommodating...... :(
And you're over-thinking that last part. I was "joking" ;D
ZG seemed to "get it"................
-Mark-
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Jay is special. However, he changes his colors like a chameleon.
There aren't any secrets here that I'm aware of. You just need to look and read the forum posts and if it's something in recent memory then someone will usually chime in. You're best bet to get one of these is through the for sale section or talking to Ryan directly. :)
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Jay is special. However, he changes his colors like a chameleon.
;D :chugbeer:
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That's just it. MC Enterprises website does not provide for ordering direct.
I didn't know you needed the "Cone of Silence" from this forum to gain access to the products ;D
Yea, our website can be a tad confusing at times, I'll give you that. However, we don't like to advertise direct sales on our website because we'd rather not step on the toes of our dealers and distributors. The entire point of having distributors is to let them handle the direct sales. However, most of our distributors have been really slow to get on the Canyon Cage movement (which I don't understand at all because these things have been an incredibly hot seller for us) so that's why we've been selling most of the Canyon Cage accessories directly. So, your best bet for these is to simply PM me, email me, or call me directly at the office during business hours and I'll get you hooked up.
I was not looking for special treatment or deal. I just wanted to purchase them!
His "Dealers" are not that accommodating...... :(
I sincerely apologize on behalf of my dealers that you spoke with. Unfortunately I have no control over how they personally treat "their" customers but I'd be more than happy to answer any questions you have and take your order for these products if you're still interested. I'm not quite sure what bike you have but the guards for the 2008-2009 are in stock and we'll have more for the 2010-2013 in about 2 weeks.
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Got them yesterday and installed them today during the 1st engine oil and gear drive oil service.
Other than a small blemish in the powder coat on the right side cage, I am quite happy with them.
Installation was simple, and took me about an hour for the front and rear cages (for the bags)
Only nit pick I have, and it's just ME (cuz I'm anal like that) that the rear upper motor mount bar could be of better quality. Similar to
the factory one the was removed. Also the way the bar and welded bolt capture inside the right side cage could have a slightly better
design.....
But hey, do not flame me!!! :o
I still love them and the "nit picks" would not have kept me from purchasing them..............
Nice product.
Cheers,
-Mark- 8)
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Only nit pick I have, and it's just ME (cuz I'm anal like that) that the rear upper motor mount bar could be of better quality. Similar to
the factory one the was removed. Also the way the bar and welded bolt capture inside the right side cage could have a slightly better
design.....
I still love them and the "nit picks" would not have kept me from purchasing them..............
Excellent points.
Ryan, GEN 2Cages. ;D
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Excellent points.
Ryan, GEN 2Cages. ;D
Would that be gen2 gen2? ???
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Got them yesterday and installed them today during the 1st engine oil and gear drive oil service. Other than a small blemish in the powder coat on the right side cage, I am quite happy with them. Installation was simple, and took me about an hour for the front and rear cages (for the bags).
Only nit pick I have, and it's just ME (cuz I'm anal like that) that the rear upper motor mount bar could be of better quality. Similar to the factory one the was removed. Also the way the bar and welded bolt capture inside the right side cage could have a slightly better design.....
But hey, do not flame me!!! :o
I still love them and the "nit picks" would not have kept me from purchasing them..............
Nice product.
Cheers,
-Mark- 8)
Thanks, Mark! I'm glad to hear you like them!
Excellent points.
Ryan, GEN 2Cages. ;D
Gen 2 Cages? As in the 2008-2009 C14? We have those...
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I probably should of said Version 2.
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I probably should of said Version 2.
Ohhh you mean a second version of that same guard. Now I get it! At first I thought you were suggesting that we should make a Canyon Cage for a new bike. D'oh!
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Ya, a new version with the upgrades that RcrBoy suggests. I bet it would just drive the cost up on the cages though.
I will repeat what RcrBoy said, "I still love them and the "nit picks" would not have kept me from purchasing them.............."
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Ya, a new version with the upgrades that RcrBoy suggests. I bet it would just drive the cost up on the cages though.
I will repeat what RcrBoy said, "I still love them and the "nit picks" would not have kept me from purchasing them.............."
^ that.
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Ya, a new version with the upgrades that RcrBoy suggests. I bet it would just drive the cost up on the cages though.
Should you ever decide to have a machinist make a better bolt for that rear upper mount I will buy one.....
-Mark-
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Should you ever decide to have a machinist make a better bolt for that rear upper mount I will buy one.....
-Mark-
Forgive me but I'm still a tad confused on which part you're talking about. Are you talking about the long bolt that goes through the entire bike at the rear mount? I guess it was just the "upper" part that threw me off as there is only one rear mount so I wasn't sure if you meant the upper front mount or just the rear mount itself. Unless I'm thinking of the wrong guard altogether. You're talking about the Canyon Cage for the 2010-2014 Concours, correct?
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Should you ever decide to have a machinist make a better bolt for that rear upper mount I will buy one.....
I just want some nice plug for the "hole" in the right tube that go through the bike (front set). They should include some type of cap or plug!! I am showing rust in that hole now (pic is before the rust)
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I just want some nice plug for the "hole" in the right tube that go through the bike (front set). They should include some type of cap or plug!! I am showing rust in that hole now (pic is before the rust)
Mine came with a plug.
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..................... the long bolt that goes through the entire bike at the rear mount?
Yes.
It's three pieces of $#*/ welded together............
I know it's inside and you can't see it.
But.
It bugs me......................
:o
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Mine came with a plug.
My memory is weak. Either mine did not come with a plug or it came with one that would not fit...
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My memory is weak. Either mine did not come with a plug or it came with one that would not fit...
I've never tried installing mine... I recall others stating that it was a (retracted colorful expletive) bear to fit.
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Line the plug up. Carefully smack it with a hard plastic hammer. Goes right in.
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Mine came with a plug.
+1 for the right side. The left side on the Gen 1 bikes that needs a plug too.
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I just want some nice plug for the "hole" in the right tube that go through the bike (front set). They should include some type of cap or plug!! I am showing rust in that hole now (pic is before the rust)
I can't remember for sure but I believe there was a reason we couldn't plug that spot. I'll be sure to look into this today. If it can be plugged, I'll PM you for your address and get one sent out to you.
Yes.
It's three pieces of $#*/ welded together............
I know it's inside and you can't see it.
But.
It bugs me......................
:o
It's actually 3 pieces welded together that NEED to be welded together. I know it's not that pretty but it is inside of the bike and it has to have that hex section welded to it so it'll sink into the saddle and stay stationary. I suppose we could get it powder coated though to make it look a little better. If anyone has an idea as to how to improve that piece of hardware, I'd be more than happy to hear them out.
Line the plug up. Carefully smack it with a hard plastic hammer. Goes right in.
This is how most people tend to install that plug and it seems to work fine. I don't understand why a few people were having such trouble with it unless our supplier accidentally sent us a few different sized plugs mixed in with our order in which case it would make perfect sense. We're always willing to replace pieces at no cost that don't work for people though. All they have to do is ask!
+1 for the right side. The left side on the Gen 1 bikes that needs a plug too.
Same as the 2010-2014 Concours Canyon Cage, I believe there was a reason we couldn't plug the left side. I'll definitely check into this today though along with the #1400-410. If it can be plugged, I'll make sure they add that to the kit.
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+1 for the right side. The left side on the Gen 1 bikes that needs a plug too.
Do you really want to know about plugs? :rotflmao:
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Do you really want to know about plugs? :rotflmao:
Knowing you, no. ;)
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Wise answer, grasshopper.
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Do you really want to know about plugs? :rotflmao:
Not butt plugs or wax-riddled ear plugs, Jim! We're talking plastic plugs for the Canyon Cage here! ;)
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Oh,
Gilda Radner Nevermind (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3FnpaWQJO0#)
then..
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................. If anyone has an idea as to how to improve that piece of hardware, I'd be more than happy to hear them out.................
Ok.
I'll work on it..............
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Have to say that I also didn't like the long motor mount bolt either. The bore of the right side cage barely catches on the bolt hex. Only the tips of the hex actually contact the hole on the right cage. It was too little contact area for my taste. I was almost ready to send them back (had MC on the phone). As I was speaking with them I came up with a solution that I felt solved the problem. I took a flat washer that fit into the right cage bore and cut it like a lock washer. I was able to bend it open to fit around the bolt, then bend it back closed. Once inserted into the right cage bore the washer gave full support and is captivated. This was really the only weak construction point of the canyon cages. I'd recommend MC to put a washer on the bolt first, then weld the hex in place. That would solve the clearance issue. Oh, and I'd like to see the left side stand off and nut powder coated black also (I painted both before assembling).
Other then that I really love my canyon cages, they're the best bars!!
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If I were re-designing the long bolt (and I fully acknowledge that nobody asked me to), the bolt would run thru and tighten up similar to stock, with threads out beyond the tightened nuts, and then both cage attachments would be similar to the one on the right... so either cage could be removed without removing the bolt.
I have no actual idea on how this could be done (especially without the disassembled bolt in front of me).
If an idea came up that could work with the cages already provided by MCE, I'd totally buy the upgraded bolt.
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If I were re-designing the long bolt (and I fully acknowledge that nobody asked me to), the bolt would run thru and tighten up similar to stock, with threads out beyond the tightened nuts, and then both cage attachments would be similar to the one on the right... so either cage could be removed without removing the bolt.
I like that idea. It does seem annoying to have to remove the long bolt when trying to take off the right side, since that bolt supports the engine to the frame and, theoretically anyway, could shift and stop aligning at any moment (at which time it would not be possible to get the bolt through again.
If an idea came up that could work with the cages already provided by MCE, I'd totally buy the upgraded bolt.
I don't see how it is possible to change the long through-bolt in such a manner without also redesigning at least one, if not both side cages.
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I don't see how it is possible to change the long through-bolt in such a manner without also redesigning at least one, if not both side cages.
Not if you machine a new part from stock material. It only needs a shoulder area for a captured washer on the right side. The left side design is ok by me....
Biggest factor is cost..
Is it worth it?
I'll know once I get hold of a machinist friend of mine to make me one....
-Mark-
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Got my Cages today. I was happy till I looked at the directions. Bit thin. Still looking for torque specs.
I decided that since the local bike shop indicated it would take 3 hrs to install these, I could do it myself. $98 Ph Hr, do the math.
The directions mentioned that I might need a breaker bar for the forward bolt. That is an understatement.
I snapped off the nose of a Hex extension in the bolt. Now I have to figure out how to get the piece out of the bolt head.
Started taking the faring off to get a better view of the bolt head. This is going to be a real pain to drill and get the piece of the Hex bolt. Can't seem to get the fwd part of the lower fairing off - just in front of the exhaust pipes.
I do note that nowhere did it mention that you are going to have to support the engine to be on the safe side. How many folks have torn up the bolts by missing this?
Anybody got torque specs???? Ideas how to remove the FWD bolt's...
Bryan
NOVA
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Could you let us know the year of your bike, please?
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I just did these yesterday.
Go spend some money on a GOOD hex socket. Snap-on. Not craftsman, husky, etc.
Make sure it's a good solid fit, and it will still twist a tiny bit inside the bolt while removing.
Use a good cheater on your breaker bar (I used a 4' piece of square tubing) and gently apply even pressure from the mid-end of your cheater. DO NOT impact (IE: Hammer) or jolt it. This will encourage breaking important stuff in expensive parts (IE: Bolt in motor mount). It may let out a 'pop' as the lock-tite breaks free. After that you can just use the breaker bar by itself. It will feel like your damaging something initially. As you get the bolt close to out (As it gets easier; the threads still need to be catching tho. If they're not, you risk damaging expensive parts.), turn it back to the right a bit (This time with a jolt) to free the hex-head from the socket-cap bolt, then continue to remove the bolt.
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I just did these yesterday.
Go spend some money on a GOOD hex socket. Snap-on. Not craftsman, husky, etc.
Make sure it's a good solid fit, and it will still twist a tiny bit inside the bolt while removing.
Use a good cheater on your breaker bar (I used a 4' piece of square tubing) and gently apply even pressure from the mid-end of your cheater. DO NOT impact (IE: Hammer) or jolt it. This will encourage breaking important stuff in expensive parts (IE: Bolt in motor mount). It may let out a 'pop' as the lock-tite breaks free. After that you can just use the breaker bar by itself. It will feel like your damaging something initially. As you get the bolt close to out (As it gets easier; the threads still need to be catching tho. If they're not, you risk damaging expensive parts.), turn it back to the right a bit (This time with a jolt) to free the hex-head from the socket-cap bolt, then continue to remove the bolt.
Heating the bolt a bit to loosen up the red locktite wouldn't hurt either.
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I've seen that frowned upon some places. My biggest fear with that would be heating up stuff you don't want to be heated (AKA, electrical wires, vacuum hoses, Gas fumes, etc).
If you want to, great, but I'm not going to say it's the greatest idea ever. Also, if you think about it, the engine gets pretty hot, and the locktite still sticks.
To heat the bolt up enough safely, you'd have to get a sacrificial screwdriver tip red hot, and hold it on the bolt head until the bolt warms up. Tow problems with that arise tho...
1: Heat makes metal soft, so you risk doing more damage to your bolt head.
2: Heat makes metal expand, so instead of the thread locker holding it in, the bolt itself is holding it in... The heat WILL transfer from the bolt into the motor mount (especially being alumiinum) and cause that metal to expand as well.
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The heat will soften up the locktite well before any metal starts to soften.
"Also, if you think about it, the engine gets pretty hot, and the locktite still sticks."
Hot locktite will allow the bolt to turn easier than cold locktite will. Run the bike to operating temp before trying to remove the bolt if you're worried about messing something up on the bike with the heat from another source.
YMMV
I didn't have any issues installing the Cages on my Gen 1 C14.
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The directions mentioned that I might need a breaker bar for the forward bolt. That is an understatement. I snapped off the nose of a Hex extension in the bolt.
Yes, it is indeed an understatement. I could not believe how tight it was, I was all set for some disaster... and not just from the getting it "loose", but the ENTIRE TIME trying to turn it out. And when we FINALLY got it out, it was just COATED in threadlock. In fact, there was still so much in the hole that getting the new bolts in there was way difficult too, I thought it had been cross threaded in the aluminum and backed it out again... nope, it is just that much threadlock.
I believe they probably put about 10 times more threadlock than what was necessary.
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The directions mentioned that I might need a breaker bar for the forward bolt. That is an understatement.
Bryan
NOVA
Have you pulled the dealer installed oil filter yet? Makes this seem almost child like :o
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Have to say that I also didn't like the long motor mount bolt either. The bore of the right side cage barely catches on the bolt hex. Only the tips of the hex actually contact the hole on the right cage. It was too little contact area for my taste. I was almost ready to send them back (had MC on the phone). As I was speaking with them I came up with a solution that I felt solved the problem. I took a flat washer that fit into the right cage bore and cut it like a lock washer. I was able to bend it open to fit around the bolt, then bend it back closed. Once inserted into the right cage bore the washer gave full support and is captivated. This was really the only weak construction point of the canyon cages. I'd recommend MC to put a washer on the bolt first, then weld the hex in place. That would solve the clearance issue. Oh, and I'd like to see the left side stand off and nut powder coated black also (I painted both before assembling).
Other then that I really love my canyon cages, they're the best bars!!
Agree with you on the appearance of the long bolt , wouldn't making it out of stainless be an alternative - but I have a different problem with this long bolt.
It arose when I wanted to remove the cages and then ride the bike to the shop that does my servicing.
Removed the cages and then tried to use the standard bolt but it jammed solid when trying to push it through.
Reverted to the cage bolt but felt it didn't tighten up properly . but had no choice but to use it.
On returning from the service I had a look at the mounting and found that the motor had dropped so that the standard bolt would no longer pass through. The cage bolt hex had started to gone through the hex on the motor and was starting to seat on the smooth bore and eat into the aluminium and that's what didn't feel right when tightening.
On measuring up the bolts I found the following :
Bolt diameter; OE 11.8 mm , MCE 10.9 mm
Hex across flats : OE 13.5 mm , MCE 12.4 mm
The narrower diameter of the MCE bolt and hex had allowed the motor to drop down a small amount and that was enough to prevent the OE from going through.
Did raise this with MCE but no response as yet.
Have now cut some slots in the fairings so I will be able to remove them without having to take the cages off
Apart from the slight dropping the motor and the inability to use the standard bolt when riding without the cages , does anyone think that this could have any other detrimental effect or does it indicate that the lower mounting could be under tightened and this is what allowed the motor to sink the 1 mm ?
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Agree with you on the appearance of the long bolt , wouldn't making it out of stainless be an alternative -
Stainless steel is much, much weaker than non-stainless steel.
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I'm sorry I haven't been checking these forums as much as I normally do. I've been out of the office quite a bit lately handling other business as well as dealing with some family stuff as of late. Anyhow, I'm sorry to hear that some of you are having issues. If any of you guys have specific questions you'd like answered, the best way to get me would be a direct email, call the office via our toll free during business hours, or PM me as a last resort. I generally keep up with my emails/calls more so than PMs just because I get work emails on my phone and can answer them almost anytime/anywhere.
Got my Cages today. I was happy till I looked at the directions. Bit thin. Still looking for torque specs.
I decided that since the local bike shop indicated it would take 3 hrs to install these, I could do it myself. $98 Ph Hr, do the math.
The directions mentioned that I might need a breaker bar for the forward bolt. That is an understatement.
I snapped off the nose of a Hex extension in the bolt. Now I have to figure out how to get the piece out of the bolt head.
Started taking the faring off to get a better view of the bolt head. This is going to be a real pain to drill and get the piece of the Hex bolt. Can't seem to get the fwd part of the lower fairing off - just in front of the exhaust pipes.
I do note that nowhere did it mention that you are going to have to support the engine to be on the safe side. How many folks have torn up the bolts by missing this?
Anybody got torque specs???? Ideas how to remove the FWD bolt's...
Bryan
NOVA
Did you end up getting the torque specs? I can give them to you if not. You must have received a set with an older set of instructions as we added torque specs to the instructions a bit ago. Anyhow, let me know if you still need them and I can PM them to you or post them here.
Regarding the Loc-Tite: There's really not much else we can do from our end. Some bikes come with more than others. We've never had a problem on the bikes we've personally brought in but I have heard from quite a few people that their bikes came absolutely loaded with Loc-Tite. Another good tip is to be sure to use a tap once you get those bolts out to clear all residual thread sealant before installing the new hardware. That will help keep them from binding.
Also, I've never heard of anyone else having an issue with the engine dropping. So, that's news to me. Very interesting news to boot. I'll be sure to add a note to the instructions warning about this but seems that everyone that has followed the instructions step by step have never had a problem in the past. However, that doesn't necessarily mean it can't happen. I appreciate the heads up.
Did raise this with MCE but no response as yet.
We're usually very good about answering emails, calls, and PMs in a timely manner so perhaps your inquiry got lost in the shuffle. If that is the case, I sincerely apologize. How did you contact us? Please shoot me a PM, direct email, or call the office and ask for me and I'll be sure to take care of you.
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We're usually very good about answering emails, calls, and PMs in a timely manner so perhaps your inquiry got lost in the shuffle. If that is the case, I sincerely apologize. How did you contact us? Please shoot me a PM, direct email, or call the office and ask for me and I'll be sure to take care of you.
Hi Ryan ,
Thanks for that. E-mail sent
Also, I've never heard of anyone else having an issue with the engine dropping. So, that's news to me. Very interesting news to boot. I'll be sure to add a note to the instructions warning about this but seems that everyone that has followed the instructions step by step have never had a problem in the past. However, that doesn't necessarily mean it can't happen. I appreciate the heads up.
Any other members had this problem or , if someone is busy with the removal of the cages and has the long bolt out , could you please try refitting the OE bolt and see whether is does go in , in which case mine is probably a unique problem.
Instructions were followed meticulously as per the sheet given.
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These things are the business.
I'm from the camp, "it's not if I fall down. It's when I fall down." 8)
So it happens on the way to work this morning, same route as always. Exit ramp off the freeway is a circular right hand up hill number that stops at a light with the road slope upwards on your right side. When the light is red you have to tilt the bike right or it'll fall over on the left.
Being vertically challenged for this bike in the first place, which is why I have the Sargent 1" lower seat, did not help matters when I slowed to a stop and put my right foot down....into a 7"x12" pothole...
Damn that bike is heavy.... :(
Anyways the cages did their job. No damage anywhere. Two scuffs, one on the front cage and one on the bag cage. Nothing that sand paper and flat black Krylon won't fix...
Will check the integrity of the welds when it's daylight. ;D
-Mark-
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These things are the business.
I'm from the camp, "it's not if I fall down. It's when I fall down." 8)
Damn that bike is heavy.... :(
-Mark-
Now if only my wife had understood that... I told her it had happened a couple times on my old 650 (once with her standing right there and I forgot that I had already put the damn kickstand up and went to get off the bike to go inside and grab something really quick) and she insisted "Just don't drop it"... Well sure as S**t I was moving hardly at all in a parking lot (at her work) and ran over slightly uneven ground and that upset the balance, and down she went... lol