Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Mort Canard on September 07, 2014, 02:52:01 PM
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I just replaced my first headlight bulb on my old C10 and was wondering about getting a high power 100/80W bulb. I know that these bulbs don't last as long but was wondering if there are any other issues when using a high power bulb on the C10. Will the electrical system hand the extra wattage? Does the headlight housing safely handle the extra heat without damage?
I tried looking for the info on the forum's search function but didn't find the answer.
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If you run a higher wattage bulb I've read you should replace the connector or something like that because it will melt over time. I suppose that depends upon how long you're running high beam and how warm it is outside.
Here is something from murph but I was thinking it required a different connector or something.
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_92&products_id=102 (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_92&products_id=102)
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_28&products_id=304 (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_28&products_id=304)
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I did the bulb upgrade that Murphskits sells, the Philips Vision +100 as detailed above.
Yes, it made a big difference, but it didn't last as long as I would have liked. I've since replaced the bulb with another one I bought at WalMart.
Haven't tried the Murphs harness upgrade, but it sounds like a good idea.
There used to be a dual headlight kit for the C-10 on Murph's site, but I'm not seeing that at the moment.
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I just replaced my first headlight bulb on my old C10 and was wondering about getting a high power 100/80W bulb. I know that these bulbs don't last as long but was wondering if there are any other issues when using a high power bulb on the C10. Will the electrical system hand the extra wattage? Does the headlight housing safely handle the extra heat without damage?
I tried looking for the info on the forum's search function but didn't find the answer.
Do not install a higher wattage bulb to the stock wiring, while it will work it will overburden the stock wiring and may cause you trouble down the road one day.... Much better off to install a separate relay with adequate sized wiring which is where the Concours is weak. The stock wiring harness is just marginal in size and if you take a meter to it you will notice that there even is some voltage drop between the battery and the light socket...
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Read the Lighting FAQ but the quick answer is a big NO on the higher wattage bulbs. They draw more current to make more light but at a price. A higher wattage bulb will draw that increased power through the same socket, wires, and relays designed for much less. Even a stock bulb can melt its socket and wiring if the contacts are corroded or dirty. A heat resistant Bakelite socket is available from NAPA (LS6235). Use it with dielectric grease to insure a good clean connection.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=570.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=570.0) (Lighting FAQ)
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I tried the 100/80 and they work, then I tried HID, now I can see:
http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/HID55W%20%20Bi-Xenon%20Headlight.html (http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/HID55W%20%20Bi-Xenon%20Headlight.html)
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What this guy says. I actually enjoy a night ride now and then now. The bulb upgrade didnt do it for me.
Wayne
I tried the 100/80 and they work, then I tried HID, now I can see:
http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/HID55W%20%20Bi-Xenon%20Headlight.html (http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/HID55W%20%20Bi-Xenon%20Headlight.html)
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From reading some lighting forums, apparently it's illegal in some places to run an HID bulb in a light that wasn't designed for it. I know some of the "tuners" around here have annoyingly bright lights, like they have their high beams on all the time. Great for them seeing, but blinding to everyone they're coming towards.
Of course, it's like a lot of things that are "illegal", they have to feel like stopping you and checking on it, or maybe need another reason to stop you first, so enforcement is spotty at best.
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HID bulbs are meant to be used in projector style housings to keep the light focused, not blinding others like wahrsuul says.
Although I haven't seen or heard anything good, bad, or otherwise about this product or company, I'm going to give this LED replacement a shot sometime.
http://www.light-pros.com/motorcycle-led-headlight-kit/ (http://www.light-pros.com/motorcycle-led-headlight-kit/)
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You can search this forum for HID discussions and installations and quite a few places. I run HIDs and so do quite a few others. I run the 35w 4200k kit which is very close to "daylight" white. Others use the 55w kits that are even brighter. My personal opinion is the farther you go left or right on the color chart, the higher possibility you have of being ticketed or rejected at inspection. I've never had an issue. We are lucky with the C10 in that it uses a glass lens and focuses the beam quite well (if not perfect). No one has ever flashed their lights at me.
As far as I know (from reading on the net and talking to the VA inspection guy) it is "illegal" at the federal DOT level to just install into any headlight receptacle even though it is marked as the correct bulb type. Its states basically that a headlight has to be made for an HID, tested, and then approved by the Federal DOT before being able to be sold as an official headlight product. This is why many say "for off-road use only". To do the install on our bike its almost plug and play - very simple. Buy the car kit so you get an extra bulb and ballast. If something goes wrong on the road and you are carrying your stock bulb, it is very simple to connect and reinstall it.
This is by far my favorite farkle (or at least second to my electric jacket liner). I would highly recommend this one. Plus, it is less strain on the electrical system. Once you tryu one you will see how amazing it is.
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+1
I'm running the 55watt, 4300K, VVME HID kit and would never go back to stock.
When adjusted right you will never have anyone flash you thinking you have your high beams on and the lighting you get is excellent.
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I tried the higher wattage bulbs and got mixed results.
Yes a bit brighter, and yes I melted the plug.
I suggest you buy Murphs relay kit and then get a better bulb.
Again, Murph has some good ones....
The relay kitcosts a bit more to do this,, but not all that expensive.
The best is prolly the HID. BUt the $$ increase significantly.
Ride safe, Ted
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The HID kits are not all that expensive. I think mine was 30 -40 . Best thing I ever did to my bike. VVME kit? Been about 4 years so not sure.
Wayne
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I have the VVME bi-xenon kit also (uses magnetics to move the filament) and it is going on about 5 years of trouble free use. Now that I said it, it will probably go out on the way home today. I got the dual car kit for about $70 delivered back then. I think they are about $50 delivered now, with the single bulb kits even cheaper. That puts it at maybe only $25 more than a "deluxe" bulb and puts out substantially more light (and a coolness factor) without taxing the system.
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I was thinking of installing a HID kit on my 91 Connie. I have limited knowledge of anything electrical. Is it very difficult to install? Does the reserve lighting switch a problem ?
RFH87_Connie
Is this the kit you mentioned : http://www.vvme.com/hid-headlights/bi-xenon-hid-conversion-kit/h4-3-9003-bi-xenon-hid-kit/12v-50-55w-h4-3-9003-bi-xenon-hid-conversion-kit (http://www.vvme.com/hid-headlights/bi-xenon-hid-conversion-kit/h4-3-9003-bi-xenon-hid-kit/12v-50-55w-h4-3-9003-bi-xenon-hid-conversion-kit)
Also is it better to get a slim kit or not?
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That is pretty much the same kit I have except mine is just 35w (which is way brighter than stock). I also selected 4300k as the color/temp. It's a pretty simple thing to install. Basically you plug the HID harness into the headlight socket and run positive and negative lines to your battery, but you just hook up one ballast and one bulb. No wires were cut. The slim ballast is not necessary as there is plenty of space to cable-tie the ballast behind the fairing somewhere. Mine is hooked to the fairing frame by the flasher module. Mine ('87) has the reserve lighting feature and I never did anything about it and have had no problems. I does make a slight buzz and slightly lights the white "Headlamp" indicator. I think Dayona Mike found a fix for this, but I never pursued it as I think it mean't cutting a wire (do a search for it). When I do this on my other bike ('87 also) I may have to address this, as all of the dash lights are LEDs so the indicator would be full bright.
Just do it - you will be impressed!
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Thanks for the reply. I think I'll go for it. It will make riding more fun. I work 12 hrs shifts and pretty soon my travel to work will be in the dark morning and night so this will greatly help make it safer.
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Thanks folks! I will look into the HID kit and till then stick with the standard 55/60w H4 bulb.
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and puts out substantially more light (and a coolness factor) without taxing the system.
I've got the "coolness factor" maxed out with an LED headlight. GENSSI makes an H4 plug and play LED replacement headlight that fits quite nicely into the C10. And when you switch to high beam, the low beam stays on throwing substantially more light down the road. 40W draw at high beam. No "warm up" time like an HID. (I know that is only an issue when you first start the bike.) Completely solid state with no moving parts. (Well, there is a fan for the heat sink, but I don't know how necessary it is on a bike anyway)
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Outback Jon, is this the GENSSI kit you mentioned?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genssi-Motorcycle-H4-HID-Factory-Replacement-Light-Kit-6000K-Xenon-Bulb-/181169725959?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2e8ea207 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genssi-Motorcycle-H4-HID-Factory-Replacement-Light-Kit-6000K-Xenon-Bulb-/181169725959?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2e8ea207)
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I have found this LED Bulb from GENSSI -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENSSI-H4-9003-LED-Conversion-Kit-Bulb-Single-for-Motorcycle-6000K-White-/161360839175?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2591db0207 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENSSI-H4-9003-LED-Conversion-Kit-Bulb-Single-for-Motorcycle-6000K-White-/161360839175?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2591db0207)
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Outback Jon, is this the GENSSI kit you mentioned?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genssi-Motorcycle-H4-HID-Factory-Replacement-Light-Kit-6000K-Xenon-Bulb-/181169725959?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2e8ea207 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genssi-Motorcycle-H4-HID-Factory-Replacement-Light-Kit-6000K-Xenon-Bulb-/181169725959?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2e8ea207)
No.
I have found this LED Bulb from GENSSI -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENSSI-H4-9003-LED-Conversion-Kit-Bulb-Single-for-Motorcycle-6000K-White-/161360839175?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2591db0207 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENSSI-H4-9003-LED-Conversion-Kit-Bulb-Single-for-Motorcycle-6000K-White-/161360839175?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2591db0207)
And no again. Though this one looks interesting. Looks like it would work great with a reflector type headlight, but maybe not so good with the C10's lens. The front facing LED array might not project so well through the glass, or might not create a very good light pattern.
This is the kit I got: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENSSI-LED-Conversion-Kit-Headlight-Headlamp-HID-Upgrade-CREE-5000K-5K-H4-9003-/361000551206?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item540d4f4326 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENSSI-LED-Conversion-Kit-Headlight-Headlamp-HID-Upgrade-CREE-5000K-5K-H4-9003-/361000551206?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item540d4f4326)
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Outback, have you tried this on the road?
Does it light up the area well?
My experience with LED's is they make a heck of a bright light, but don't light up an area. I
(n my case I'm talking about LED flashlights. Yea, I know we're not comparing apples and apples)..
But the LED flashlights are so bright they blind you if shined in your face, but they don't make much of a beam..
Ride safe, Ted
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So, here I am...looking at my still in the package PIAA Super Plasma GT-X 60/55w=135/125W bulb...and, reading Outback's post about that Genssi LED conversion...decisions...decisions... :-\
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Outback, have you tried this on the road?
Does it light up the area well?
Yes, and yes.
My experience with LED's is they make a heck of a bright light, but don't light up an area. I
(n my case I'm talking about LED flashlights. Yea, I know we're not comparing apples and apples)..
But the LED flashlights are so bright they blind you if shined in your face, but they don't make much of a beam..
You need to spend bigger $$ on your LED flashlights. I'm a bit of a flashlight junkie and have a small one that throws something like 600 lumens. It has a big lens on the front that can focus the beam so sharply that you can actually see the circuit of the LED array on a wall well over 100 feet away. (I know I've done it further, but I've never really measured.) It makes this neat square pattern with sharply defined edges. I really try to avoid shining it into my own or other peoples' eyes. I know this means nothing for an LED headlight conversion, as there is no comparison, but LEDs can be focused easily. I also have a good LED conversion in a 3 D-cell Mag-lite. It is several years old, and it focuses as well as the original bulb did.
So, here I am...looking at my still in the package PIAA Super Plasma GT-X 60/55w=135/125W bulb...and, reading Outback's post about that Genssi LED conversion...decisions...decisions... :-\
I know that PIAA makes some good stuff, but I'm always suspicious of claims like that. I just can't understand how you'd get those supposed numbers out of an incandescent bulb. (Wattage is a terrible way of rating light output, anyway.) The GENSSI setup only uses something like 40W on high beam. So if you're looking for a bit of power saving, it might be the way to go. And there really is no way to beat the "coolness factor". 8) I actually ordered the rest of the bulbs and a new flasher that I need to make my C10 entirely LED.
Damn, just realized I forgot the license plate light! How embarrassing that would have been! :doh: Anyone know the bulb size?
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A couple of things:
The connie headlamp assembly is indeed a reflector.
Second, before sinking your on LED head light bulbs, read a lot of reviews. After seeing this I did and to say the least, the reviews are mixed at best.
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A couple of things:
The connie headlamp assembly is indeed a reflector.
Perhaps I was unclear. I meant the type of headlight that has a clear, smooth glass/plastic lens with a reflector at the back that does all the focusing. Like most modern cars and bikes. The C10 has a reflector, but much of the focusing is done through the refractive glass, instead of at the reflector.
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Thanks Outback....
Ride safe, Ted
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d e a d
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Guess I'll have to find a wall to point the bike at and take a couple of pics. Good excuse to play with my daughter's DSLR camera, anyway.
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d e a d
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That's a thought. Here are some pics of the pattern of the H13 with the left bulb replaced with LED. Against the wall you can see what is thrown at oncoming traffic. The other pic shows the glare vs the standard H13 bulb that an oncoming driver sees.
After putting in the left bulb we were pretty sure the GENSII would not be a usable solution. We did not take pictures with both LED bulbs in.
Can you post a pic of the H13 unit that you have? I'm curious as to how the LED arrays are arranged compared to the one that I have.
I've seen a lot of bad designs out there that claim to be replacements for various incandescent bulbs. And just like with the various HID replacement units, the designs have improved through several generations. But there are still people selling the earlier poor designs, which I think contributes to some complaints about them.
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Here's a couple of shots of the Genssi H4 LED unit. If you're familiar with the design of a standard H4, you can see how it uses the position of the LED arrays to mimic the filament placement of a standard H4.
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I installed my PIAA Super Plasma GT-X 60/55w=135/125W bulb today and took a ride tonight...and, I must say, I am impressed! I am now a believer! We will have to see about longevity...
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d e a d
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I can see where they are definitely brighter. And I'm for more light, but there is a point of too much...
I'll be the nay sayer here. (meant for discussion, not to argue)
My concern is the other driver. I don't want more light at the expense of others comfort.
I personally hate to ride with someone behind me (or approaching me) that has glaring headlights.
My thought here is to have a high beam that is extra bright, so that you can switch to low when your approaching other cars..
A good test might be; If you notice approaching cars flashing their lights at you (thinking your on high beam) it will indicate that glare is too much. If so, let us know.
Ride safe, Ted
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Just a little info to add about HIDs. If you get something near the 6000k color range (temp) it will be blue when seen from other drivers (although you will see it as whiteish while driving). Try to keep close to 4200k or 4300k for true "daylight" color. Someplaces say their product is "perfect daylight" at 5000k which is actually heading to the blue realm. I will say that LEDs have a super long life span according to the manufacturers. A standard H4 puts out 1100-1500 lumens and draws 55-60 watts to do so. Here are the specs of the HID kit (taken from VVME) I run which is only 35w and produces 3200 lumens at 4300k - you do the math:
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I can see where they are definitely brighter. And I'm for more light, but there is a point of too much...
I'll be the nay sayer here. (meant for discussion, not to argue)
My concern is the other driver. I don't want more light at the expense of others comfort.
I personally hate to ride with someone behind me (or approaching me) that has glaring headlights.
My thought here is to have a high beam that is extra bright, so that you can switch to low when your approaching other cars..
A good test might be; If you notice approaching cars flashing their lights at you (thinking your on high beam) it will indicate that glare is too much. If so, let us know.
Ride safe, Ted
Knight_mares LED picture above shows a properly shielded bulb. This controls the cut-off point and works quite well at placing it just below the trunk line of the car in front of you and also just below the eyes of on-coming traffic. Some people think they can gain more light by removing this which is incorrect. DON'T DO IT! If you remove it, all it does is send light up into the trees and other driver’s eyes that is really of no use and a potential safety hazard. The brightness of an HID does not change, it just changes the focal length by magnetically moving the filament from the high to low positions. LEDs on the other hand, typically light a second LED that is sitting in the "high" position to accomplish the same thing, while most of the time leaving the low beam LED on also. By doing this they give additional light in the low beam area too and maybe a little extra brightness down the road.
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d e a d
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You must have had one of the early kits that used two different filaments, one a halogen, filled with xenon the other HID (filled with xenon). The current kits that are bi-xenon HID use only one filament and just move it (telescopic) forward and backward to change the focal distance. These have no lag time as it is always on. Basically what you see while riding is as if you are pointing a huge flashlight in a normal low beam position, then bring it up high beam (nano-second but still no black) to see down the road, then lower it again when needed for oncoming cars. I would highly recommend you look at these again - the prices have came way down since the earlier discussion (2010 or 2011). Still more than an $8 bulb though. This is the kit I have:
http://www.vvme.com/hid-headlights/bi-xenon-hid-conversion-kit/h4-3-9003-bi-xenon-hid-kit/standard-h4-3-9003-bi-xenon-hid-kit (http://www.vvme.com/hid-headlights/bi-xenon-hid-conversion-kit/h4-3-9003-bi-xenon-hid-kit/standard-h4-3-9003-bi-xenon-hid-kit)
By the way, the LED kit he is looking at says it is 5000k color temp (blue).
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d e a d
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...and a 55w 4300k bi-xenon H4 kit...
Do this one unless you know it gave you troubles. Maybe just hook it up without mounting everything to see if works right if you haven't already done that.
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Good info. and I agree with almost all of it. One thing though- while HID's are always listed as "35 watts" or "55 watts", they actually use a bit more power. My 35 watt HIDs use 42 watts; the ballast consumes some power along the way.
Just curious but are some of you guys using a Hi / Lo HID in a single headlight, stock C-10? If so, you may want to re-think that idea. One ballast and one lamp (burner) provide the light for both the Hi and Lo beams.... if (when actually) one of those fails, it will leave the bike with no forward lighting. Stock H4 lamps have two filaments and that is a major consideration; the odds of both filaments failing at the same time are really very high but one lamp failing is not much of a surprise. So using a bi- xenon HID setup in a single headlight vehicle is an inherently bad idea IMO- when the headlight fails, it very well could be on a vehicle doing 70 MPH + down the road and suddenly lose all forward lighting. :o
Brian
Just a little info to add about HIDs. If you get something near the 6000k color range (temp) it will be blue when seen from other drivers (although you will see it as whiteish while driving). Try to keep close to 4200k or 4300k for true "daylight" color. Someplaces say their product is "perfect daylight" at 5000k which is actually heading to the blue realm. I will say that LEDs have a super long life span according to the manufacturers. A standard H4 puts out 1100-1500 lumens and draws 55-60 watts to do so. Here are the specs of the HID kit (taken from VVME) I run which is only 35w and produces 3200 lumens at 4300k - you do the math:
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I have the single beam HID and ironically have the auto-switching dohicky things on both of my C10s - not that it would work with the HID. I do carry a spare HID components and a stock bulb buried in the cubby holes. I have had bulbs go totally out a few times over the years and it wasn't that alarming, as it has always happened in town on a straight section of road. I do still think about it but can't seem to trade off the available light from this mod. I've had fogs that were always on hooked to my low beams, but don't currently. I need to hook them up again. They give a little extra noticeability and a back-up light source. I've been looking at LEDs and HIDs for this purpose also, but they are kind of pricey for DOT approved lights (VA is pretty tough on inspection for this if not marked "DOT" or "SAE" on the lens).
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The bulbs in the GENSSI kits are identical; the difference is the plastic adapter ring. On my truck the low beam LED was on the left side and the high beam on the right, which is horribly stupid since the reflectors are not symmetrical. If you stood off the road on the passenger side when I had the low beams on, it was clear that the passenger half of each housing was dark and the driver half was bright.
That sounds like they were incorrectly assembled. (Not your installation, the mounting of the adapter ring) Left/right makes no sense on any headlight setup that I've ever seen. And assuming they are the same LED unit as my H4, there are only two screws that hold the ring onto the LED, so I can't imagine a way to incorrectly assemble it.
Well, I was motivated enough to go out and take a short ride to get a pic, but when I asked my daughter about borrowing her camera she told me both the batteries were dead. And that she found her charger the other day. But she didn't bother to connect those particular items together in a way that would make her camera useful. ::) But I think I'll take my old digital camera out and get some shots.
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Just curious but are some of you guys using a Hi / Lo HID in a single headlight, stock C-10? If so, you may want to re-think that idea. One ballast and one lamp (burner) provide the light for both the Hi and Lo beams.... if (when actually) one of those fails, it will leave the bike with no forward lighting.
Had that happen with one of my HIDs. But, since I have a ridiculous amount of auxiliary lighting, (2 x 27W LED spotlights on the tip-over bars) I didn't even notice until the next day. I was on the highway, and with traffic had been on my low beam anyway. But my LED spotlights took up the slack, and since I have them aimed pretty much right where the low beam hits, I never noticed. They got me home in the dark that morning just fine, too. I just adjusted the right side one up a bit higher and turned it a bit to the right so it would give me better light (less traffic at that time) and wouldn't be in anyone's eyes.
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OK, here's 4 pics for you all. I didn't bother to run out to somewhere with a blank wall, so I just turned the bike and pointed it at the house. The bike was on the centerstand, so the headlight aiming is a bit lower than actual. The front of the bike was right about 50 feet from the side of the house. I'll throw the old camera in the bike and get a couple of shots against a blank wall on my way home from work tomorrow night.
Haven't had any noticeable flashes from anyone, so I'm guessing the aim and focus is pretty good. (I get very rare, occasional ones, but no more than when I had the standard H4 in there.)
1) Side of house with no motorcycle lights.
2) Low beam GENSSI LED.
3) High beam GENSSI LED.
4) High beam GENSSI LED + (2) 27W LED spotlights on tip-over bars.
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Certainly looks like a lot of good clear light!
Ride safe, Ted
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Yep, any type of auxillary lighting will do fine in a pinch. I was only speaking about a stock motorcycle with one headlight and no other form of lighting- when that headlight goes out the bike and rider are suddenly plunged (Easy Boys!) into a very risky situation.
But if a bike has another kind of forward lighting then I would not hesitate to use a single element type of light in the headlight (HID).
Brian
Had that happen with one of my HIDs. But, since I have a ridiculous amount of auxiliary lighting, (2 x 27W LED spotlights on the tip-over bars) I didn't even notice until the next day. I was on the highway, and with traffic had been on my low beam anyway. But my LED spotlights took up the slack, and since I have them aimed pretty much right where the low beam hits, I never noticed. They got me home in the dark that morning just fine, too. I just adjusted the right side one up a bit higher and turned it a bit to the right so it would give me better light (less traffic at that time) and wouldn't be in anyone's eyes.
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. . . Just curious but are some of you guys using a Hi / Lo HID in a single headlight, stock C-10? If so, you may want to re-think that idea. One ballast and one lamp (burner) provide the light for both the Hi and Lo beams.... if (when actually) one of those fails, it will leave the bike with no forward lighting. Stock H4 lamps have two filaments and that is a major consideration; the odds of both filaments failing at the same time are really very high but one lamp failing is not much of a surprise. So using a bi- xenon HID setup in a single headlight vehicle is an inherently bad idea IMO- when the headlight fails, it very well could be on a vehicle doing 70 MPH + down the road and suddenly lose all forward lighting. :o
Brian
What you say is true, but our C10s have another headlight killer, the headlight relay in the J-Box. If it goes out, it doesn't matter whether you have 1 filament or 2 in your headlight bulb. And our J-Box doesn't have a tremendous reliability rating.
And yes, I use a bi-xenon HID setup.
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Yep, I understand what you are saying. But a junction box failure is a failure and the mfg. was not planning on that happening. Lamps of all types, on the other hand, do have a lifespan and so a headlight outage is something that is planned and there is a contingency in place for it. I do not believe there is a vehicle that has been DOT approved that is dependent on a single light source for main vehicle lighting.
I have not owned a C-10 but if outright headlight failure is a problem then I would add some type of aux. lighting.... just in case. It does not have to be expensive or even particularly good lighting- aux. driving lights from a big box store would do for me but I would have to have absolute confidence that I could maintain forward lighting on any vehicle I drove at night.
Brian
What you say is true, but our C10s have another headlight killer, the headlight relay in the J-Box. If it goes out, it doesn't matter whether you have 1 filament or 2 in your headlight bulb. And our J-Box doesn't have a tremendous reliability rating.
And yes, I use a bi-xenon HID setup.
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Just posting a bit buzzed, some good lithuanian 12% beer the cause, but unless you segregate the actual conni headlight from the percieved aux lighting its moot... with the bike running, pull up on the key, and do a quick left/right/left twist on it, its tough to describe, but it works. 100% to isolate the lighting circuit from the equation (thanks poppa Guy B Young II) then the bike will be running without lights... and we can see actually what the adder is.. and if it don't add.... as I can't see in your picss, well.. its a toss.
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I'm just tootired,and trying to relax on the porch, to post the comparo pics of Murphes lights, stock, and the 80/100 NAPA bulbs right now... let's just say, the NAPA bulbs are in my tank bag....
Oh, I'll add I'm still running the lamps delivererd on my bike from 07-07-2007.....
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Stopped and got a couple of shots against a wall on my way home tonight. Bike was 20 feet from the wall.
1) GENSSI LED on low beam
2) GENSSI LED on high beam
3) GENSSI LED + 2 x 27W LED flood lights
So, the GENSSI makes a pretty good cutoff line in the C10 headlight housing. When I'm behind cars, it is slightly lower than the headlights on my car with modern projector style low-beam headlights. I could (and should) probably adjust the headlight up a little without causing any problems for other drivers.
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Jon, I like the look, as well as the idea of not having a single point of failure at the bulb. The high beam looks a little dim in the pic compared to the low beam, what does your rider seat view tell you as compared to stock or a good halogen (Silverstar etc.) replacement? The cutoff lines look clear, especially by comparison to other pics posted in this thread. I am familiar with your passion for good lighting and am considering an upgrade, so your opinion is valued.
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It is quite difficult to judge the high beam compared to a standard H4. Simply because the low beam stays on. The added light in the foreground makes the high beam seem dimmer than it should. But really it is quite adequate.
I'd have to say it is at least comparable to a standard halogen. I noticed previously that I thought my halogen H4 seemed dim since I run my LED driving lights all the time. When I shut them off, almost any headlight seems dim.
Since I've had my LED driving lights, I've noticed that I ride much more relaxed at night. I'm still looking for hazards like the overgrown forest rats that infest this area, but the extremely well lit foreground allows me to concentrate more on hazards that are a bit further off. The added close-in light lets me identify potholes and other road abnormalities much easier. Now, with the LED headlight, if I were to turn my driving lights off, the added close-in light is still there.
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d e a d
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I am thinking about re-installing my HID's. I had a problem before that I think was ground related. I would probably do it different this time. One thing I noticed at VVME is that the bulbs are only 35 watt. I am pretty sure that before I got 55 watters from them, but after searching it could well be that I got mine from DDM as they have the 55 watt Bi-Xenon. With our reflectors it has a nice cutoff line on low, and then when you go to hi beam, man does it light up the road.
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Here is the 55w link:
http://www.vvme.com/hid-headlights/bi-xenon-hid-conversion-kit/h4-3-9003-bi-xenon-hid-kit/12v-50-55w-h4-3-9003-bi-xenon-hid-conversion-kit (http://www.vvme.com/hid-headlights/bi-xenon-hid-conversion-kit/h4-3-9003-bi-xenon-hid-kit/12v-50-55w-h4-3-9003-bi-xenon-hid-conversion-kit)