My Connie is using a bit of oil. It is using 18oz to 600-700 miles of normal riding. I recently put on about 500 miles of 85 to 90 mph and used about 20oz. I will continue to track it close to determine which direction I go as the bike runs strong and is fast.

If I decide to rebuild the motor I am thinking of going the 2mm overbore route. I am looking for any tips from those that have done so. I have read Steve article on it.  I have changed the head on an 86 and have had the carbs off both of my Connies a few times  so I don't think it will be that tough to do. Thanks
Wayne

Anyone done this? Would love to learn from your experances
Wayne

I would try to nail down why and where the oil loss is happening first.

It may be lost through valves not seating, or it could be through the spark plug seals not doing their job.

Have you been seeing any smoke from the exhaust on start up or when under load?

Bike runs like a banshee! No smoke seen at startup (where i usually would show with bad valve seals) . I was running it hard through the gears with a friend following behind and nothing. Will need to do a leakdown this winter.

Still looking for feedback  on the ZX pistons!
Wayne

I would try to nail down why and where the oil loss is happening first.

It may be lost through valves not seating, or it could be through the spark plug seals not doing their job.

Have you been seeing any smoke from the exhaust on start up or when under load?

what do you specifically want to know? Steve

Any recommended shops for boring and shaving the block.

Is .0025 - .0028 clearance for these pistons?

What does this increase the displacement to?

Noticable increase in power?

If budget allows anything else I should have done while I am in there? .

Thanks Steve. I reread your article and it is actually seems pretty  straightforward.  I need to determine where my oil is going too before I get in there.  This is the second Connie I have had and both used what I think is excessive amount of oil. This one isn't too terrible ifI drive it decent but I don't do that too often
Wayne

Answers imbedded

Any recommended shops for boring and shaving the block. - I used a local shop

Is .0025 - .0028 clearance for these pistons?  yes

What does this increase the displacement to? 1052cc

Noticable increase in power? yes

If budget allows anything else I should have done while I am in there? .  sky's the limit, but cams would be my choice.

Thanks Steve. I reread your article and it is actually seems pretty  straightforward.  I need to determine where my oil is going too before I get in there.  This is the second Connie I have had and both used what I think is excessive amount of oil. This one isn't too terrible ifI drive it decent but I don't do that too often Don't do a super fine hone, 220 to 280 will be fine.
Wayne

Any recommended shops for boring and shaving the block.

Is .0025 - .0028 clearance for these pistons?

I have been boring motorcycle cylinders for 35 years. PM me if interested.

If you cut the deck of your block, your cam timing will change.

Piston clearance depends on manufacturer.

David
Wichita, KS

I have been boring motorcycle cylinders for 35 years. PM me if interested.

If you cut the deck of your block, your cam timing will change.

Piston clearance depends on manufacturer.

David
Wichita, KS

  the pistons are oem, and decking is necessary to make up for the compression height (pin height) of the piston. A .040" cut on my deck resulted in 3* retarding . Steve

Thanks David, I may be contacting you this winter.

Steve, I have a few more for you  ??

Does the 2 minute mod work well with this?

How about the exhaust cam sprocket thing (can't remember what it is called?

Will I need a piston stop for degreeing?

What side  of the crank works best for attaching the wheel?

I assume you just filed the sprocket holes a little to slot them?

Thanks a bunch. The cam degreeing will be the toughest part for me.
Wayne

  the pistons are oem, and decking is necessary to make up for the compression height (pin height) of the piston. A .040" cut on my deck resulted in 3* retarding . Steve

Thanks David, I may be contacting you this winter.

Steve, I have a few more for you  ??

Does the 2 minute mod work well with this? Of course

How about the exhaust cam sprocket thing (can't remember what it is called?  Of course

Will I need a piston stop for degreeing? Of course

What side  of the crank works best for attaching the wheel? left

I assume you just filed the sprocket holes a little to slot them? I punched new holes.

Thanks a bunch. The cam degreeing will be the toughest part for me.
Wayne

Will this run on 87 octane with this mod? 
Wayne

it'll run on 89. didn't try 87, maybe. If you relieve the combustion chamber, then yes. See my video "deep inside shoodaben" - I relieved the chamber to lower the compression ratio and pressure, along with better flow. it does pull harder at rpm over 8500 than it did with the high velocity head. Steve

Thanks Steve, relieving combustion chamber is above my skill set I think. I am ok with 89 I just dont want to be worried about finding premium which is getting a little more difficult all the time here. Would taking a little less off the block work? If it runs on 89 I am good to go though.
Wayne

it'll run on 89. didn't try 87, maybe. If you relieve the combustion chamber, then yes. See my video "deep inside shoodaben" - I relieved the chamber to lower the compression ratio and pressure, along with better flow. it does pull harder at rpm over 8500 than it did with the high velocity head. Steve

if you only do a .020 cut you will be around 10:1 Steve