Clutch master rebuild?

[roadkoan]

Hey all!
 So recently i have noticed a drip mark on my tank (left side, under bar/grip area) and I believe also I have noticed an increased vibration coming from my clutch fluid res. (Noise that goes away when I rest my hand on the res. cover) Ive checked the cover screws and the bar mounts Allen bolt. Both seem secure.
So looks like rebuild time? Replacement?
Only 27000mi. on 'er?!?! Seems a bit premature.
Has anyone else experienced this?

And last but not least: Any tips for the rebuild itself? Links?

Thanks in advance!

[Outback_Jon]

left side

Yeah, with you, it would be.   

Doesn't seem like something that should happen with only 27k miles.  What year is the bike?  I'm sure the age of the seals could be an issue on an older bike. 

[GeeBeav]

Don't know of anything that would vibrate/make noise on the master cyl unless it's the clutch lever.

[T Cro ®]

It's not the miles it's the years old and type of miles; city miles are the worst due to frequent shifting and heat soak. Has the fluid ever been flushed out and replaced with fresh? I'm not sure what the manual calls for on the clutch side but the brake side should be flushed out once yearly and since both sides use DOT 4 I'll fair a guess that you should do the same to the clutch side too. Build up for crud and goo is what causes leaks; remove your master cylinder cover and check to see if one it is overfilled with dark brown dirty fluid and two has grime and crud built up under the cover or its rubber gasket. This is reason number one that I flush out my systems and fill them with DOT 5 Silicone Brake Fluid as it does not crud up over time nor will it eat paint like DOT 3 & 4 will do.

[kzz1king]

Hmmmm, I know they recommend D4, any harm in D3? Mine was crudded up so I run 3 through until it got clean. I think I will flush with alcohol and go with D5 later.

Wayne

[Leo]

I would have no problem running DOT 3 in the clutch system.  It is not a high pressure, high heat application like the brakes.  I am sure Kawasaki marked it like that just to prevent getting fluids mixed up.   The clutch side does seem to get dirty faster than the brakes.  The last time I did a clean/flush/ bleed, the bottle was marked DOT4/3, I think it was from Valvoline. 

[MAN OF BLUES]

the clutch piston/seal sufaces are actuated 20 times more than the brake seals, and with each actuation the seals in the slaves see a large range of motion, scrubbing against the piston. Unlike the brake seal/piston interface, where the piston barely moves .030 inch max under each actuation. This is what causes the fluid to degrade, and discolor more rapidly.
I suggest changing this fluid at least every other year, it will add to seal longevity.
DOT 3/4 is more than adequate, these seals were designed for that, wayyyyyy before DOT5 became popular.

[gtr1000]

+1 on changing the fluid every 12 months.

I flushed my clutch master and line no more than 12 months ago and refilled with DOT4.

I've just changed the stock clutch line for a braided one which entailed draing the fluid with my Mityvac. Even just after 12 months, the fluid that cam out wasn't like it was when it went in. In fact it was a light brown color although looking through the site window on the master cylinder you'd have thought it was a clear light yellow color.

[roadkoan]

Thanks for the suggestions!

I know my fluid is good (installed speed bleeders a in spring and flushed er then) but the problem predated it. I kinda hoped the new fluid would swell the seals....

The  P.O. didn't keep records so who knows if it was original. It sure was murky.

Don't know of anything that would vibrate/make noise on the master cyl unless it's the clutch lever.

I don't think its the lever because I can gently place my hand on the lever and the buzz does not change, (I tend to ride with my controls covered most of the time) but the sound disappears when I rest my hand on the reservoir cover .

It's not the miles it's the years old and type of miles; city miles are the worst due to frequent shifting and heat soak.

I do live in Minneapolis and commute in traffic daily but I'm only responsible for the most recent 12000 miles and an shes an '02, so seems kinda soon.

And its the single drop of fluid that infrequently appears on the tank that makes me wonder about the piston/push-rod seal.
Has anyone else seen this drip?

[Daytona_Mike]

I have. I bought the repair kit from Murph's 
It was easy enough to install but I needed a good  ring tool to reach way in the hole to get at the ring clip (Circlip)  out.