Front brake pads

[PH14]

Only on the Gen 2s though. Another reason the Gen 1s are superior.   

  This is why I bought the 2009 vs the 2010 they had with ABS. I have had experience with linked brakes on a Goldwing, but didn't want it on the Concours if I didn't have to.

[bombsquad1201]

Ok,
I'll ask the question everybody is thinking and no one has bothered to ask.
How would you order a Gen 2 set of brake pads?
How do you know your getting a Gen 2 vs Gen 1 brake pads?

[wb57]

Ok,
I'll ask the question everybody is thinking and no one has bothered to ask.
How would you order a Gen 2 set of brake pads?
How do you know your getting a Gen 2 vs Gen 1 brake pads?

They're different part numbers.

Check the online retailers.  I look at www.rockymountainatv.com for starters.


2010:    43082-0112   PAD-ASSY-BRAKE   $62.60

2008:       43082-0071   PAD-ASSY-BRAKE   $74.58   

[wb57]

Just a thought but I would be wary of doing that due to the abrasive flinging around. But if you do do it that way, you might want to wipe down all the moving parts as best you can- wheel bearing points (where the axle hits the seal at least), fork ends, etc. Silicon carbide is nasty, sharp and very aggressive abrasive that you really do not want in / on any moving parts of the bike.

And I think it is going to be quite difficult to get the backside (Easy!) of the rotors w/out taking the wheels off. I flip them around when cleaning them on the tire balancer.

Brian

Understood that it would be more difficult to do them in place, but was considering pulling the drill towards me and hitting it from the back or possibly using a longer reach "bit" on the drill and coming from the other side.  If this is a stupid idea, I'll just wait until the weekend to pull the wheel.

What do you use to do this other than the silicon carbide wheel?

[PH14]

Ok,
I'll ask the question everybody is thinking and no one has bothered to ask.
How would you order a Gen 2 set of brake pads?
How do you know your getting a Gen 2 vs Gen 1 brake pads?

Personally I would, and did go with EBC. As stated though, the second generation pads are a different part number. They were redesigned to fix the issue of leaving deposits on the rotors that occurred with the Gen 1 pads. They don't have as much initial bite as the Gen 1 pads from what I hear. Brian can jump in and correct me if I am wrong.

[B.D.F.]

I put a photo of the way I do it in reply #13 in this thread.

Brian

Understood that it would be more difficult to do them in place, but was considering pulling the drill towards me and hitting it from the back or possibly using a longer reach "bit" on the drill and coming from the other side.  If this is a stupid idea, I'll just wait until the weekend to pull the wheel.

What do you use to do this other than the silicon carbide wheel?

[B.D.F.]

That is what I found- Gen. 2 pads have less initial bite, are less progressive (meaning they do not brake harder, faster (Easy Boys!) as much as Gen. 1 pads do as the lever pressure is increased). Gen.1 brake pads also make an impressive amount of black brake dust- it should be impossible but it seems like there is a pound of brake pad dust all over the bike for every 1/2 oz. of brake pad that is worn away :-)

Brian

Personally I would, and did go with EBC. As stated though, the second generation pads are a different part number. They were redesigned to fix the issue of leaving deposits on the rotors that occurred with the Gen 1 pads. They don't have as much initial bite as the Gen 1 pads from what I hear. Brian can jump in and correct me if I am wrong.

[wb57]

I put a photo of the way I do it in reply #13 in this thread.

Brian

My mistake.  I misread that.

[wb57]

I wish I'd have measured the rotors before trying to figure out the best way to prepare them. Both are at minimum thickness. New EBC rotors ordered.

[MAN OF BLUES]

Thanks.  I ordered two sets of the EBCs, but may replace only the right side based on this train of thought.

I don't think you read or understood my response (#5 in this thread) about mixing compounds on different sides.... might want to ponder this a bit more, and simply use both sets, keeping a common material on both rotors.... mmmkayyyy

[wb57]

I don't think you read or understood my response (#5 in this thread) about mixing compounds on different sides.... might want to ponder this a bit more, and simply use both sets, keeping a common material on both rotors.... mmmkayyyy

That was based on post #9, for the most part.  It's all moot now as the rotors were at minimum thickness.  Replacements have been ordered.  I'll throw fresh everything on there now. 

Browsing around a bit, I see that a fair number of folks have had problems with the OEM rotors on the 2010s.  Kind of ridiculous to have shot rotors at 15K miles.  Especially when Kaw thinks theirs are worth close to $500 each.

[B.D.F.]

Just a thought but I would not worry too much about 'minimum thickness' for a couple of reasons: 1) the wear limit is only 0.020" (twenty thousandths of an inch), far too little IMO and 2) the range is 4.5 to 5.5 mm IIRC but brand new rotors are 5.0 mm. That basically means that 1/2 of the available wear was never supplied with the new rotors.

As far as problems with rotors, yep, the C-14 has had more than its fair share of warped rotors. I believe Kawi finally fixed it with the late model rotors but I only say that because the number of reported warped rotors has fallen way off, and that is NOT data, merely an observance. But certainly the first 3 or 4, and maybe 5 years of this bike's production had a [too high] number of rotor problems.

Brian

That was based on post #9, for the most part.  It's all moot now as the rotors were at minimum thickness.  Replacements have been ordered.  I'll throw fresh everything on there now. 

Browsing around a bit, I see that a fair number of folks have had problems with the OEM rotors on the 2010s.  Kind of ridiculous to have shot rotors at 15K miles.  Especially when Kaw thinks theirs are worth close to $500 each.

[wb57]

Just a thought but I would not worry too much about 'minimum thickness' for a couple of reasons: 1) the wear limit is only 0.020" (twenty thousandths of an inch), far too little IMO and 2) the range is 4.5 to 5.5 mm IIRC but brand new rotors are 5.0 mm. That basically means that 1/2 of the available wear was never supplied with the new rotors.

As far as problems with rotors, yep, the C-14 has had more than its fair share of warped rotors. I believe Kawi finally fixed it with the late model rotors but I only say that because the number of reported warped rotors has fallen way off, and that is NOT data, merely an observance. But certainly the first 3 or 4, and maybe 5 years of this bike's production had a [too high] number of rotor problems.

Brian

They're slightly grooved.  Not enough so that I'd worry about it if that were the only strike against them, but also being at 4.5mm coupled with the fact that I have gotten a pulse (not constant, so I wasn't thinking warpage) and the reports of failed rotors led me to just bite the bullet.  I don't have any way to measure runout accurately here at home.  It's a heavy bike and ridden two up better than half the time.  I don't want to worry about it. 

[katata1100]

I see people using the EBC pads. Anyone use the EBC organics? I am not an aggressive rider, I like brake feel and quiet operation.
Can the EBC organic front pads hold up to the weight of the C14 w/o fade?

[MAN OF BLUES]

They're slightly grooved.  Not enough so that I'd worry about it if that were the only strike against them, but also being at 4.5mm coupled with the fact that I have gotten a pulse (not constant, so I wasn't thinking warpage) and the reports of failed rotors led me to just bite the bullet.  I don't have any way to measure runout accurately here at home.  It's a heavy bike and ridden two up better than half the time.  I don't want to worry about it.

You don't need special stuff to measure thickness, and if you mic the outer edge you will find the rotors are consistantly in the mid zone, even where the pads never rubbed, therefor, little wear occurrs mid rotor (compare mid to outer area). I like the feel of the EBC HH pads, but as I noted, they are substatially thinner than oem, and will not last as long... the noted issues some complain about of the hissing sound doesn't bother me, I don't hear it all the time, just on occaision. Still, they will only last about 20k.

[wb57]

You don't need special stuff to measure thickness, and if you mic the outer edge you will find the rotors are consistantly in the mid zone, even where the pads never rubbed, therefor, little wear occurrs mid rotor (compare mid to outer area). I like the feel of the EBC HH pads, but as I noted, they are substatially thinner than oem, and will not last as long... the noted issues some complain about of the hissing sound doesn't bother me, I don't hear it all the time, just on occaision. Still, they will only last about 20k.

I'm good with 20K.  I just got less than 15K out of my OEMs.   

I did not mic different areas, but will just to know at this point.  New EBCs are on - rotors and pads and any hint of pulsation is completely gone.  I suspect I'm going to find variations in the thickness of the old rotor(s).

[tomp]

Bought my 08 from a dealer in March with 20K on it.  They had replaced pads front and rear with OEM's.  They stop the bike just fine and with even more feel than the crazy servo's on my 04 RT.  I've used HH's on other bikes, and if they cause more sensitive brake qualities than OEM, think I will stay with stock, or EBC organics. 

2500 miles on the new pads and no brake dust problems, either.... tp

[B.D.F.]

For what it is worth, I do not think there are any organic brake pads for the C-14, at least not front pads. All the pads available, at least from reputable manufacturers, are HH rated, sintered pads.

Brian

Bought my 08 from a dealer in March with 20K on it.  They had replaced pads front and rear with OEM's.  They stop the bike just fine and with even more feel than the crazy servo's on my 04 RT.  I've used HH's on other bikes, and if they cause more sensitive brake qualities than OEM, think I will stay with stock, or EBC organics. 

2500 miles on the new pads and no brake dust problems, either.... tp

[wb57]

For what it is worth, I do not think there are any organic brake pads for the C-14, at least not front pads. All the pads available, at least from reputable manufacturers, are HH rated, sintered pads.

Brian

When I was searching for pads this past week, that's exactly what I found.  I did find some non-HH pads for the rear, but don't recall the exact compound.

[rcannon409]

Galfer "GG" organic make great rear pads. They were made for show bikes, so the rotor gets polished to a beautiful sheen..almost chrome like.  The feel is great, though. No more on/off switch. They have a better "range" if that makes sense.