A&R Motorsports HID kit input

[ZG]

Excellent, thanks!  I looked back over this thread before posting the request, but didn't see the link (though I thought I had earlier).

Looks like a bit much to try and tackle before ZG and Gumby get here in the morning for our ride tomorrow.  That's if the kit even arrives today.  Maybe a task for Sunday?

Weather is looking to be great for the Tygh Valley ride bro! 
 
Get er done Rob, we'll see ya tomorrow, and we're bringing a 3rd black C14 with us as well... 

[C1xRider]

Weather is looking to be great for the Tygh Valley ride bro! 
 
Get er done Rob, we'll see ya tomorrow, and we're bringing a 3rd black C14 with us as well... 

Weather will be great (maybe a little chilly early).  I probably should wait, so I don't have the bike all apart when you guys arrive.  Maybe I'll just wash it or something...   

BTW, OregonLan is also excited to go, so that will be another C14 in the mix.

[ZG]

Weather will be great (maybe a little chilly early).  I probably should wait, so I don't have the bike all apart when you guys arrive.  Maybe I'll just wash it or something...   

BTW, OregonLan is also excited to go, so that will be another C14 in the mix.

Cool, 5 C14's will be nice indeed! 
 
I hope OL's Connie isn't silver though, I don't want us to have to keep pulling over to wait...     

[maxtog]

More photos.
These two show the scatter pattern very clearly.  This is just a few feet from a garage door.  It is like a crazy butterfly.  The jagged edges you see are clearly visible in tunnels and on trees when riding.  First low beam, then high beam.

[maxtog]

Now the main beams when 6 feet from a wall and 20 feet.

[Cuda]

It's good to hear lots of happy HID owners  , I asked the old mechanic at my local dealership ,   grey hair 39 years as a motorcycle mechanic,  about HID units and he said all he has seen is junk from China,  said he installed several HID units and would  not recommend getting them till the quality gets better.
So It's good to hear of happy HID owners , but I'm going to wait a while on getting a set , I'm OK with the stock lights  for now.

I have a headlight modulator hooked up , would it work with a HID system?

[maxtog]

I have a headlight modulator hooked up , would it work with a HID system?

No

[C1xRider]

Anyone know how much the startup current requirements are for this particular kit?  Also how long it draws the startup cuurent?

I already have a heavy guage wire running from my battery up to my aux lighter socket, which is also feeding my driving lights.  I don't see a use case where it should be a problem if I use it for the HIDs too, but stiil, curious if someone knows.

[Gumby]

Anyone know how much the startup current requirements are for this particular kit?  Also how long it draws the startup cuurent?

I already have a heavy guage wire running from my battery up to my aux lighter socket, which is also feeding my driving lights.  I don't see a use case where it should be a problem if I use it for the HIDs too, but stiil, curious if someone knows.

That sounds like a question for A&R   http://www.aandrmotorsport.com/store/index.php?dispatch=pages.view&page_id=15

Or we could wait for Brian to chime in, he seems to know a lot about lighting. 

[C1xRider]

That sounds like a question for A&R   http://www.aandrmotorsport.com/store/index.php?dispatch=pages.view&page_id=15

Or we could wait for Brian to chime in, he seems to know a lot about lighting. 

I don't think Brian has this particular kit.  I was hoping someone has actually measured it.

The label on the ballast says "<7A", but there's a 30amp inline fuse.  Two ballasts would be <14 amps, so maybe they're just doubling that for a SWAG at the fuse size.

Since they provide this nice wire that's meant to go direct to the battery, I guess I'll just snake it through.  Just trying to save a step on the install.

[maxtog]

Since they provide this nice wire that's meant to go direct to the battery, I guess I'll just snake it through.  Just trying to save a step on the install.

It is a nice wire/kit.  And you don't have to remove the right fairings to install the kit, which is surprising (I removed the upper dash part, though) so it won't save much by just going to the battery.

[C1xRider]

It is a nice wire/kit.  And you don't have to remove the right fairings to install the kit, which is surprising (I removed the upper dash part, though) so it won't save much by just going to the battery.

Thanks!  After I got in there, it took all of 15 seconds to snake that wire through, so definitely not worth the hassle to splice it into my existing wire.

In reality, you don't even need to pull the fairings.  I'm almost done with the install, and didn't pull mine.  Not sure about the 08/09 bikes though.

[Caffeinated]

Thanks!  After I got in there, it took all of 15 seconds to snake that wire through, so definitely not worth the hassle to splice it into my existing wire.

In reality, you don't even need to pull the fairings.  I'm almost done with the install, and didn't pull mine.  Not sure about the 08/09 bikes though.

So you didn't have to remove the left ram air tube and the fairing?  One of the reasons I've not installed mine yet...to lazy to pull all that apart.

[maxtog]

So you didn't have to remove the left ram air tube and the fairing?

I don't see how his post led you to that conclusion.  Yes, you do have to remove the left ram air tube and fairing.

  One of the reasons I've not installed mine yet...to lazy to pull all that apart.

It wasn't as difficult as I expected it to be.  But that is one very strange looking air box.

[C1xRider]

So you didn't have to remove the left ram air tube and the fairing?  One of the reasons I've not installed mine yet...to lazy to pull all that apart.

Only if you follow their directions on where to mount  the igniters.  I'll be mounting mine somewhere else because I have no confidence in any stick on adhesive to hold long term when stuck to the bottom side of anything.  The wires in the kit are plenty long, so it looks like I'll be mounting mine somewhere under the right side cover.

I pulled the plastic cover over the gas tank, the two black plastic covers (left side glove box, right side blank), and the cover under the headlight, just above the fender (only needed to change the city lights).

[Caffeinated]

I don't see how his post led you to that conclusion.  Yes, you do have to remove the left ram air tube and fairing.

It wasn't as difficult as I expected it to be.  But that is one very strange looking air box.

Well, this led me to that...

In reality, you don't even need to pull the fairings. 

Which led me to believe you could install in the same place as the A&R instruction without removing fairing and tube. I see now that C1x is going to place the igniters on other places.

Mute point, since I'm going to have to pull it all apart anyway to replace the air filter. Maybe I'll do it this week! 

[maxtog]

Well, this led me to that...Which led me to believe you could install in the same place as the A&R instruction without removing fairing and tube. I see now that C1x is going to place the igniters on other places.

Ooops, I like, TOTALLY missed that part.  Sorry.

Yeah, it did seem odd to have to remove the air box, but I figured they knew best how to install it.  Some of the cords are quite short and I decided to not second-guess their instructions.

However, I agree with C1x that the idea of mounting it from the top with just sticky doesn't instill long-term confidence about it staying there.  Not sure about the mounting the other on the rubber firewall either.   I guess time will tell.

[Caffeinated]

Ooops, I like, TOTALLY missed that part.  Sorry.

Yeah, it did seem odd to have to remove the air box, but I figured they knew best how to install it.  Some of the cords are quite short and I decided to not second-guess their instructions.

However, I agree with C1x that the idea of mounting it from the top with just sticky doesn't instill long-term confidence about it staying there.  Not sure about the mounting the other on the rubber firewall either.   I guess time will tell.

No problem. That 3m industrial Velcro glue is very strong, the 3m fasteners for my fast toll transponder are still stuck to the windshield on my truck going on 10 years, and that's some serious heat in the summer.

[C1xRider]

Oh ya, this is night riding Nirvana!  Now it's definitely better than riding in the day time.

The HIDs on low solved the issues I had with not being able to see when I switch from highs to lows.  The 4300K bulbs are certainly a whiter light than stock, and seem to light everything up with better definition.

No problem. That 3m industrial Velcro glue is very strong, the 3m fasteners for my fast toll transponder are still stuck to the windshield on my truck going on 10 years, and that's some serious heat in the summer.

The velcro that comes in the kit is probably not 3M.  I have a box of 3M velcro and it has 3M printed on the plastic that you peel off.  The stuff in the kit is probably whatever they had in China when they assembled the kit.

I ended up mounting the igniters on top of the right side intake tube with zip ties.  All the wiring reached easily, and everything is neatly zip tied away from the movement of the forks.  I had the bike on the center stand with a floor jack lifting the front wheel off the ground so I could move it back and forth easily.

Definitely one of those things I should have done sooner.   

[Ddfee]

Damn you Rob...I just ordered the kit and can't wait...another farkle for the bike, however this one is all about safety.  I was riding at night last week...rode 750 kms round trip for a beer and burger...anyways shut off my driving lights (Rigid Industries Dually 2's) as I was behind heavy traffic and was embarrassed by the yellow quality lights in my low beams.  When I passed the traffic and turned my driving lights back on, it was day light once more.

I swore that I would not install HID for the hi/low bikes lights due to the complexitiy of it all...I hope this is as straight forward as all the others have stated.

Thx again

Dave