Author Topic: Vavle adjustment help (Read 7458 times)

sgilbert14 · « **on:** October 02, 2012, 02:15:41 PM »

I was out for a ride the other day and noticed a bit louder then normal exhaust sound and it seemed to have bit less power when passing. Seeing that it was time for plugs, oil, cleaning the air filter etc.. I decided to check the valves. I did this in the Spring with no problems. I pull the bike apart and check and adjust the valves just as the book instructs. I put enough bike together to give it a try and I got a nasty valve chatter. Take it apart and go at it again, found #2 exhaust was a bit tight but checked them all, put enough together to start it and the chatter is still there! Is there something else I should check besides the valves? I set the exhaust at 8 and the intakes at 7 as I see others have done. Maybe I messing up something. Will dig around here for ideas but any help.ideas would be great.

rwulf · « **Reply #1 on:** October 02, 2012, 03:47:45 PM »

Cam chain makes a lot of noise. Might want to check the tentioner.

sgilbert14 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 02, 2012, 05:57:27 PM »

I think I may have a clue to all my problems. Reading others post I see that things do not always line up right when setting the timing marks. Checked my bike and that's what is going on so I have been setting the gap while the valves had some pressure on them. Should I just turn the bolt enough to get the pressure off the valves or is there something else??? Thanks.

Summit670 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 02, 2012, 07:11:59 PM »

I always do mine by the service manual method, pulling the side cover and turning crank with a wrench to line up the camshaft sprockets as directed.

Others just make sure the cam lobes are pointed away from the followers and adjust from there.

sgilbert14 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 02, 2012, 07:24:21 PM »

That's how I was doing it but when I line up the timing marks the lobes are not fully releasing the valves so when I am adjusting them it is not correctlt done. So now I am thinking that the timing or something else is off, maybe ? I have learned a ton on the bike but still a long way to go.

redzgrider · « **Reply #5 on:** October 02, 2012, 08:10:27 PM »

I like to turn the motor until the cam lobe points directly away from the follower for each pair of valves. Takes a little longer, since I don't do two pairs at a time, as the manual instructs, but I know I'm on the base circle for each adjustment.

sgilbert14 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 03, 2012, 04:46:26 AM »

I don't care about spending more time on it so I think I will steel your way and just make sure that they are adjusted right. Thanks a ton.

dvitous · « **Reply #7 on:** October 03, 2012, 11:54:53 AM »

Quote from: redzgrider on October 02, 2012, 08:10:27 PM

I like to turn the motor until the cam lobe points directly away from the follower for each pair of valves. Takes a little longer, since I don't do two pairs at a time, as the manual instructs, but I know I'm on the base circle for each adjustment.

+1... I just do the bump.

Summit670 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 03, 2012, 11:56:25 AM »

What year of bike and how many miles are on it?

sgilbert14 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 03, 2012, 08:03:55 PM »

92 with just under 34k

Summit670 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 03, 2012, 08:36:31 PM »

I haven't heard of any valve issues other than the 86 model year. I have an 87 with 75,000 and it's ok.

T Cro ® · « **Reply #11 on:** October 04, 2012, 08:31:30 AM »

Quote from: redzgrider on October 02, 2012, 08:10:27 PM

I like to turn the motor until the cam lobe points directly away from the follower for each pair of valves. Takes a little longer, since I don't do two pairs at a time, as the manual instructs, but I know I'm on the base circle for each adjustment.

On a 4 cylinder OHC it just don't get any easier than this.... Now on the other hand when we are working on a 20 cylinder you bet your sweet tushy that we roll the engine over to exact crank positions so that we don't waste time and energy. Another point that bears mention as it happens is to make sure that you don't get your intake & exhaust clearance backwards and that your not getting your SAE and Metric readings crossed up either as that can make an engine clatter like the mad hatter... Other than that check your timing chain adjuster to make sure that it is not sticking as that makes an engine rattle; but worry not as these engines will almost NEVER jump timing.

sgilbert14 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 04, 2012, 10:55:25 AM »

Maybe it is something else?

I went back through all the valves again, put enough bike back together and tried to give it a go. It started but I killed it in less then 5-10 secs because the noise was still there. I tried it once more with coils pulled so it would start and the noise is more like metal hitting metal in the area of cyl 3-4. Pulled it all apart again, pulled the plugs, left the valve cover off and turned it over and it was quite as ever. Lightly put the plugs in, no cover, and the noise is back. So that rules out hitting the valve cover but what else should I go after?

When checking the valves I had each lob facing up, screw driver in place and the feeler with some, but not heavy friction. I am using the .07 for the intake (ones towards the air cleaner I hope) and .08 for the exhaust. So, what in the hell am I screwing up? Should I do the adjustmets with nothing but the feeler so that I am not pushing down on the thing even slightly?

I can't belive this is driving me so crazy after all the other stuff that I have done on cars and bikes. HLEP!!!!!!!!

Summit670 · « **Reply #13 on:** October 04, 2012, 11:58:02 AM »

A plug missing the crush washer?

Plugs out quiet. Plugs in noisy. I'd say plugs. The correct plug is being used, right?

Cholla · « **Reply #14 on:** October 04, 2012, 01:43:27 PM »

.07 and .08??? Isn't it .007 and .008? .07 would make a heck of a clatter!

sgilbert14 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 04, 2012, 02:17:37 PM »

Gap was right I just did not type the 2nd "0" Checked the plugs and the washers are in place but I am going to put in the old set as a check once I go through it all again.

Cholla · « **Reply #16 on:** October 04, 2012, 02:47:14 PM »

Good deal, but ya never know....seen it happen before.
Don't forget to ensure the spark plug well seals are in place when reinstalling the cover...don't axe how I know...

sgilbert14 · « **Reply #17 on:** October 04, 2012, 05:09:50 PM »

Well, I went back to the method in the book and at both crank positions I found at least 1 set of intake and exhaust valve off. Some just a bit but #3 intacke was bad. After that I decided that if I was this far into the thing I might as well check everything so I pulled the right cover and checked the chain, adjuster znd looked for anything that should be and shouldn't be there. Now I have nice stream of red gasket goop on both covers drying for the morning. Love the goop gaskets and they work great and a lot cheaper then factory.

How thick should the intack gasket be? I am thinking that maybe it is time to replace the gaskets for the cover and plugs.

Thanks for the help and I hope this works!

T Cro ® · « **Reply #18 on:** October 04, 2012, 06:05:32 PM »

Red Gasket Goop...

What pray tell is Red Gasket Goop?

Let's just hope that your not speaking about silicone in place of fiber gaskets; many times fiber gaskets are used to set up a specific clearance between parts and another thing is you really don't want is little gobs (balls) of silicone floating around inside your engine looking for an oil passageway to obstruct.

Intake Gasket? No such thing; please explain.

As to the Valve Cover and well as Plug Well Gaskets you will not be making those as they are made of rather thick rubber like material...

sgilbert14 · « **Reply #19 on:** October 04, 2012, 06:45:37 PM »

OK, first it looks like I may have messed up because I was using silcone for the side covers. So, I will be ordering the right ones before I get it running. The valve cover gasket seems to be fine and there is no way I would have used anything instead of them. So, I will get the gasket set for the side covers and take the goop out og the equation! Thanks for the advice and it could have been a bad mistake.

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Author Topic: Vavle adjustment help (Read 7458 times)