Rear Brake/ABS Pump issue

[Freddy]

My bike is fixed Jim.  It's other folks that have the brake failure now.  Griping here or elsewhere won't help unless it's done via road safety authorities as per the 3rd last page of the owner's manual (or thereabouts) which I keep encouraging other to do.

[VirginiaJim]

Absolutely correct.

Report your vehicle issues here  https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

[PaydayGabe]

Wow,  , very interesting thread,  , yet disturbing! 
   So out of curiosity I  just had a look through my service documents. The original p/o had the clutch/brake fluid systems flushed in 2012 at 15.2k miles. Bike currently has just over 20k.  I haven't noticed anything weird relating to the brake (abs) system.   The lines are original,  , and the rest master recall thingy was done also. 
  I will monitor this,  , because I like to STOP just as much as I like to GO.  Not too surprising Kawasaki would bury their head's in the sand on this.   Can you say expensive,  , and  " appears we have a problem "   admition.   
Some poor sap will be killed or mangled  before something is done,   , which is unfortunate/ sad. 
Hello Kawasaki  USA/  EU/  AUS.  Time to pay attention!
This could be ugly.       G. in Vegas

[VirginiaJim]

Poor man's ABS code readout  - similar to pre-ODB2 Chrysler vehicle (uses a blinking light)

• Remove the seat
• Ground the self-diagnosis terminal A (Gray) to the ground terminal B (black/yellow) using a jumper lead
• Push and turn the Key Knob to on
• Count the blinks of the light to read the service code
• For instance 13 would be blink   pause blink blink blink
• This would indicate a problem in the rear inlet solenoid valve (shorted, open, stuck)

This is for those that don't have an extended warranty.  Pretty sure you can't get it (extended warranty) if you're not on the three year warranty or currently on an extended warranty. 

The ABS issue is not common, however it's very expensive to fix.

[Freddy]

Poor man's ABS code readout  - similar to pre-ODB2 Chrysler vehicle (uses a blinking light)

• Remove the seat
• Ground the self-diagnosis terminal A (Gray) to the ground terminal B (black/yellow) using a jumper lead
• Push and turn the Key Knob to on
• Count the blinks of the light to read the service code
• For instance 13 would be blink   pause blink blink blink
• This would indicate a problem in the rear inlet solenoid valve (shorted, open, stuck)

This is for those that don't have an extended warranty.  Pretty sure you can't get it (extended warranty) if you're not on the three year warranty or currently on an extended warranty. 

The ABS issue is not common, however it's very expensive to fix.

That works only if the yellow ABS light remains ON after starting and riding the bike.  Our problem is that the ABS light goes OFF when the failure we are discussing here occurs.  It should show service code 13 and/or 14 (from reply #56) but because the ABS light goes out as normal, we assume all's well when it ain't because the warning system itself fails and/or doesn't function as designed and detailed in the FSM.   It's great being able to read the fault codes but if it don't throw one we don't know that brakes will fail until be go to use them.

EDIT:  It's not that the entire ABS warning system fails, just those relating to rear brake failure - code 13 &/or 14 (and maybe 17 &/or 18 front) that I and others have personally experienced.  It is easy to get the system to 'throw a fault code' by unplugging a wheel sensor and/or remove a sensor from its location so that gap is too big and/or run the battery flat.  I have done these to view the results.  That part of the warning system works as it should.

[VirginiaJim]

So if the light doesn't come on, how do you know you have a failure?  What are the symptoms that point you in that direction?

Ok, went back and read the initial post.   I'd still run the diagnostic, though, just to see.  But then again, I have extended warranty and would take it in to the dealer to troubleshoot.  What I'm trying to do here is assist with ABS troubleshooting in general as many don't have a manual.

[gPink]

The rear brake locks up? 

[VirginiaJim]

I've seen the rear master cylinder cause that..and lock up the rear brake.   If one has a low mileage bike, you really need to flush any fluid out yearly.  I'd be very wary of an early year bike with low miles.  You'd have to go over it with a fine tooth comb and do every maintenance on it you can think of..

[Conrad]

Wow,  , very interesting thread,  , yet disturbing! 
   So out of curiosity I  just had a look through my service documents. The original p/o had the clutch/brake fluid systems flushed in 2012 at 15.2k miles. Bike currently has just over 20k.  I haven't noticed anything weird relating to the brake (abs) system.   The lines are original,  , and the rest master recall thingy was done also. 
  I will monitor this,  , because I like to STOP just as much as I like to GO.  Not too surprising Kawasaki would bury their head's in the sand on this.   Can you say expensive,  , and  " appears we have a problem "   admition.   
Some poor sap will be killed or mangled  before something is done,   , which is unfortunate/ sad. 
Hello Kawasaki  USA/  EU/  AUS.  Time to pay attention!
This could be ugly.       G. in Vegas

You are aware that Kawasaki specifies a flush/refill on the brakes and clutch every 2 years right? You appear to be 3 years overdue. I wouldn't wait any longer to get this done (don't bury your head in the sand    ). Don't just monitor your brakes and clutch, do the maintenance and you won't have to worry as much about it. 

[VirginiaJim]

 

[gPink]

I thought he was still talking to max. 

[Conrad]

I thought he was still talking to max. 

Max can read that too.   

[VirginiaJim]

Max really needs to get this done..

[maxtog]

I thought he was still talking to max. 

Max can read that too.   

Max really needs to get this done..

I still can't hear anything!!!!!!!!!  I am getting a strange, faint premonition of "I told you so"

[VirginiaJim]

I'm working on the rear brakes on Saturday..flush, clean the calipers/pads, test the rear ABS.

[Freddy]

The rear brake locks up? 

No.  The pedal is rock solid - cannot be depressed, therefore NO brake application whatsoever - TOTAL brake failure. 


Jim, I'm certain you know that the rear caliper has 2 bleeders but others may not unless they remove the caliper for cleaning like you.   

[VirginiaJim]

Well aware of that Freddy, but most aren't and thank you for bringing it up.

[kzz1king]

Did not know about the 2 bleeders. Any good write ups on brake r and r?
Wayne

Well aware of that Freddy, but most aren't and thank you for bringing it up.

[VirginiaJim]

I don't think we have anything like that here.  I'll take a look, though.  If so, I'll point you to it.  There are many MC brake videos on YouTube.  I'll try to document what I do this weekend and post it up at some point.

[Conrad]

Did not know about the 2 bleeders. Any good write ups on brake r and r?
Wayne

It's really not that difficult at all.

In fact.

It's so easy that even Max could do it.