Of course on the eve of selling the girl she decided to kick my ass once more. It was running but the throttle stuck a bit. Changed the cables and out it back together and now the bike will not start. Checked the obvious stuff and it is getting gas and has spark. It turns over strong but just will not start. I drained the bowels because of the gas take issues in the past and nothing but nice clean gas so here I am suppose to be selling the bike this week and she decides to do this to me know.... I must be missing something... any ideas? 

She still Loves you and wants you to reconsider. 

My '05 wouldn't start when the pilot jets got plugged. Not badly plugged, but no start. Had SISF do the jet mod, carb cleaning, installed the exhaust sprocket and ran it. Sat a couple weeks after the tank flush/reinstall and even had an inline fuel filter, but it disturbed some sediment junk that found its way to the pilots. Pulled the carbs back off, cleaned out the jets and all was well.

Other than the bike still wanting you...

check that the cables are connected properly, the choke cable not messed with. also make sure the kill switch is working right. after all you were working on the right handle.

Still trying to get this sorted. I will try again tomorrow afternoon but the kill switch seems to be fine as well as the cables. Next..

Still trying to get this sorted. I will try again tomorrow afternoon but the kill switch seems to be fine as well as the cables. Next..

First. Do you have spark when cranking? If you do, as you mentioned there is, then it's most likely carb issue as it's unlikely to have gotten out of time by itself.
As I mentioned earlier, my freshly and professionally cleaned and jetted carbs got the pilot jets plugged (no fault of the guy that did the work) and starting was virtually impossible.

Put it on prime for a few minutes to let the bowls fill up, then try to start.

If no start, turn the fuel to on and drain the bowls as a way of checking that the bowls were getting fuel.

If getting fuel and it has spark, and the choke cable and throttle cables operate, and check the air filter for obstructions, then I don't see why it wouldn't start.

I hate using the starter too much.  Make sure to only try it in short bursts and allow time between to let it cool some, like a few minutes.

If you have a nice long hilly street, try coasting and bump starting using 2nd or 3rd gear.  If it doesn't start after a good try doing this, maybe verify it is getting spark on all cylinders, and then I go back to the fuel.   

How many miles on bike and when was the last valve adjustment?  Take the plugs out and check if they look overly wet or dry and may as well see if there is compression by cranking it over with plugs out.

Thank you for all the advice and it looks like I have fun time for tomorrow. Never thought about the timing but I will try it all and see what goes starting with the spark, fuel and air
Thank again

Maybe this has been said but ... make sure the battery is in fact charged fully and well connected.  If the battery or its connections are marginal, this particular bike has been prone to give starting issues even though it reads +12v.  It gives enough current to spin but not enough to fire the ignition with a nice hot spark.  Put it on charge overnight.

While bump starting sounds like a good idea if it starts, remember, if it doesn't - what goes down must come back up (by pushing).

That I know about from an old bike experience. I have the perfect hill 1/8 of a mile away but if it doesn't start it becomes hell...

Have the valves been adjusted? Does it sound like it is turning over real fast?
I see Summit670  already asked you that. We are both thinking the same.

Spent a ton of time going through all of the above and it all checked out great. While watching Truck U on velocity the talked about ethanol fuel and the issue of it varnishing fast if not used. Figured that I couldn't loose so I pulled the carbs and on the engine side there was a nice sticky varnish. Picked up some carb cleaner and gave it a good cleaning and added just a bit of gas in the boot and put it back together and what do you know, it fired right up. Only ran for a few second and then died so, off cones the carbs and checked the bowels and they're nice and clean so sprayed to all down again but now am letting it just sit.

Lesson learned - cheaper gas is just that CHEAP ! Now I just hope that I don't need to send the carbs away again...... Like Steve's work but....

Remove the pilot jets and make sure they are clear. The holes are very small, doesn't take much to plug or skin them over. Make sure you can spray thru them. Resist the temptation to run a needle or something thru them unless it's smaller than the jet orifice. The brass is easy to ream out bigger and that will mess things up.
Be sure you can spray thru all passages.
The ethanol issue evaporating is one of the reasons SISF recommends the two stroke oil added to the gas.

Thank and I did removed only the bowels and, on 1 and 3, finally got the cleaner to spray through the gets. Afraid to go any further then that due to the course on the carb magic not being a strong point.  Still, I will spray is all down and see where it goes from this point. Let you know

The ethanol issue evaporating is one of the reasons SISF recommends the two stroke oil added to the gas.

+1 on that. If your not putting 2 stroke oil in with your gas you will have issues when running ethanol gas..
My carbs had to go back to Steve after one year of not using 2 stroke oil and they were a mess.  That reminds me. I need to buy some more. I put it in all my carburated bikes.

Thank and I did removed only the bowels and, on 1 and 3, finally got the cleaner to spray through the gets. Afraid to go any further then that due to the course on the carb magic not being a strong point.  Still, I will spray is all down and see where it goes from this point. Let you know

The pilot jet is removeable from the carb body with a good quality small size regular screwdriver. It's down a rather deep hole. Look at a parts diagram and you can find the location. Remove it and make sure its clear and clean thru the center and the side orifices on the jet itself. Spray cleaner thru the passage with and w/o the pilot jet installed. 

Thanks to both. Never heard about adding the oil but note well learned and taken.

Thanks and I did watched a few you tube videos earlier and found out just what you stated and I will be doing that in just a few.

Some links you may find useful.....carb cleaning

This one is one of the better links I found.  Never mind that it is a 250 Ninja because the carbs operate pretty similar if not exactly the same.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cleaning_the_carbs_2

Here is a youtube video that may add a different perspective.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=exa467_eoXw&feature=endscreen

Thanks for all the help. The you tube video is the one that I watched early and is what convinced me that it was not that big of a deal but mind you, I did not touch the mixture screws at all. That I would never get back. I did clean off the rest and all ports were open when spraying the carb cleaner. Now the trickle charger is on the battery for the night and if everything goes as I pray it will start tomorrow. 

Thanks to both. Never heard about adding the oil but note well learned and taken.

Thanks and I did watched a few you tube videos earlier and found out just what you stated and I will be doing that in just a few.

A couple oz per 5-6 gal is enough. Any inexpensive non-synthetic TCWlll two stroke oil will do the trick.