Hey folks,

Can someone point me to the information regarding the replacement of the cam sensor o-ring. I know it's here somewhere and I've read a few posts on the subject.  I would like to know the specifics on changing it. I have the bike apart to the point where I have access to the sensor. Do I just take the one bolt out and the sensor pops out.  Put new o-ring in and put it back together?  I know someone on here was sending out replacements for cheap but is there an o-ring I can get locally that is a good replacement?

Thanks for your help

The post on the o-rings is on the landing page for this board....a couple of posts up...

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13866.0

It's a sticky post..

Thanks. That helps.

Cheers.

Hopefully someone will come back with a specific answer on your question.  I intend to do it myself here in a bit once the garage warms up.  I have to take all the plastics off for some front end maintenance within the next several weeks assuming it warms up.

Hopefully someone will come back with a specific answer on your question. 

I think someone did...
unless the question is about buying one locally, which you will not.
We went down this dirtroad on the "other" forum... 

That's why I bought a bag....

steps for 2011 bike:
intake cam sensor - 10mm socket required. unscrew bolt and pull the sensor out (turn and pull). i used a toothpick to pull the old o-ring off, wouldn't scratch up anything.

exhaust cam sensor - 10mm socket required. i prefer to reach in from the right side of the bike, easier. top 2 radiator bolts needs to be taken out, and radiator needs to be shifted forward to make space. unscrew sensor bolt and pull sensor out.

both sensors will most likely have quite a bit of dirt on the outside, especially the exhaust cam sensor since it's facing the front. clean up the area before removing the sensor, prevents dirt from going into the engine when reinstalling the sensor.

hope this helps.

Yes this helps. I did check out the link to the previous thread so i have a pretty good handle on the procedure.   MOB, do you still have some o-rings left?  I was kinda impatient and didnt want to wait to get one in the mail so i had a look around for one today. I think i found one but if it doesnt work i might be sending you an envelope.

MOB, do you still have some o-rings left?  I was kinda impatient and didnt want to wait to get one in the mail so i had a look around for one today. I think i found one but if it doesnt work i might be sending you an envelope.

I have some left, for sure.
How will you know if it doesn't work? It may not leak right away....or, it might not fit right from the start.

The oem size is kinda unknown, but my replacements are the size that does seal and does fit.
the only "tight fit ring" we have found is a 2.4 x 16.3 one. any "dash" number SAE ring will not work.
As I said, we been thru this whole thing a year ago, and this is the size.
What size did you get?

I have some left, for sure.
How will you know if it doesn't work? It may not leak right away....or, it might not fit right from the start.

The oem size is kinda unknown, but my replacements are the size that does seal and does fit.
the only "tight fit ring" we have found is a 2.4 x 16.3 one. any "dash" number SAE ring will not work.
As I said, we been thru this whole thing a year ago, and this is the size.
What size did you get?

The guy at the counter tried to find the closest he could to the size you indicated but he was digging through an old box and using a suspect set of calipers. The one he gave me is definitely thicker as well as fits tighter than the original. It was all i could do to squash it in there. I'm not 100% confident that it didnt get pinched or shaved during install. I just ran the engine in the garage for a bit and no leaks, not that its a real test by any means. Now that I know how to do it the process should only take an hour next time.

Today I replaced the o-ring to the exhaust side cam sensor and cleaned all the dirty accumulated from the oil leak and after that while keep the engine running for throttle body sync that took me a while then did a last check to the sensor before  to put the plastics back together find out that oil was coming out from were the wires come out of the sensor itself.
I have to order a new sensor $ 82.00 and leave the bike apart while the replacement part arrive
Also have to remove the valve cover that at the same time had replaced the gasket but did not put sealant  so it leaked too, so i apply the sealant and put some washers on the 7 bolts that hold the cover because i did not order the new washers that all ready are thinner than they are when new so those washers will compensate for that and will put more pressure to the cover against the cylinder head

Hopefully someone will come back with a specific answer on your question.  I intend to do it myself here in a bit once the garage warms up.  I have to take all the plastics off for some front end maintenance within the next several weeks assuming it warms up.

Applicare al sensore di posizione della camme su l' O-RING una colla ad alta temperatura per risolvere il problema di perdita olio motore.



MGvalerio

Applicare al sensore di posizione della camme su l' O-RING una colla ad alta temperatura per risolvere il problema di perdita olio motore.

MGvalerio

per google translator:

ad alta temperatura sigillante non è accettabile per questo scopo, sostituire l'anello

per google translator:

ad alta temperatura sigillante non è accettabile per questo scopo, sostituire l'anello

 Fatta sostituzione O-RING ma fallimento.. non ho risolto...,solo con colla da guarnizioni applicata come già detto sopra.



Without replacement O-RING failure .. but I have not solved ... only with glue seals applied as mentioned above.

MGvalerio.