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At the risk of starting an oil thread; here it goes...
There was a sale on Royal Purple SAE 20W 50...so, on a whim, I bought 4 quarts. Then I got home and realized 20W 50 isn't the preferred weight. Can I use without issues? I have a 1986 with 34K. Engine is in very good shape.
Thanks!!!
Matt
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Save it for summer, assuming you don't live in AK or northern Canada.
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Save it for summer, assuming you don't live in AK or northern Canada.
Same here.
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I run 15W50 full synthetic year round but of course I can't ride this time of year; 20W50 is fine for summer time riding and is listed as an acceptable alternative according to the Owner's Manual.
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I think Royal Purple is a real synthetic oil that has a very low pour point meaning that it flows in low temperatures where conventional oils will have the consistency of molasses. So, I say use it year round.
You might want to confirm the low pour point.
I know that almost all car "synthetic" oils are Group III conventional oils that do not have the low pour point. Amsoil is the exception. Don't know about motorcycle oils.
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Matt,
I have used Royal Purple 15/40 "car" synthetic in my Connie since she was new in 2002 with no issues. And the other poster was correct, synthetic has a much better pour rate in cold weather than conventional oil. If you are not riding in sub freezing temps you should be fine. Heck I ran Castrol GTX 20/50 for many years in many of my bikes in all types of weather conditions with no problems.
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Car oil these days is missing ingredients like zinc that protect cams. I've read several places that if you rebuild one of the older car engines that does not have roller lifters and break it in on car oil without a zinc additive, the cam will be ruined. I don't think car oil should be used in motorcycles any more especially since our Concours engines have a bad rep on cam pitting. Use bike oil. My smelly opinion!
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Opinions vary but results don't...... There has yet to be any definitive and conclusive evidence that the use of a "properly" suited automotive motor oil in a motorcycle engine has any detrimental results.
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I started using Kendall 20w-50 Racing this past summer. It has extra zinc for flat tappet engines and meets api sm. And its only $4.00 a qt. at O'Rieley's. Worked real well. I change oil every 5000 miles and can usually tell by the shifting when I'm close to a change. But the Kendall was still shifting good.
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Royal Purple makes Group III, IV and V oils. Their GV oils (offroad use only) have had their zinc content reduced in fear of lawsuits arising from people using it in their autos and ruining catcons.
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Thru 3 motorcycle I have only ever used car oil. Never had any problem with my bikes.
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I used oil once.
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I talked to the Lube Engineers here at Shell, plus others from other Companies, plus I talked to Kawasaki.
All said that Diesel Truck Oil was good to use because of the Zinc and lack of Friction Modifiers..
I've been running Rotella T for many years. No problems.
Many in the club use the Synthetic Rotella. Again, no problems....
In my case, I plan to move to the Rotella Semi Sythetic and give it a try.
No particular reason other than I like the 10W40 rather than the 20W50, and wanted to give the Semi a try.
Ride safe, Ted
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At the risk of starting an oil thread; here it goes...
It always becomes an oil thread............
+1 on the Rotella.
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It always becomes an oil thread............
+1 on the Rotella.
Same here.
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Never seen Rotella semi syn. Have only seen dino 30 and 15-40 and syn 5-40. Use it in all my vehicles.
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Never seen Rotella semi syn. Have only seen dino 30 and 15-40 and syn 5-40. Use it in all my vehicles.
I bought some the other day at Walmart.
Just to check that I didn't mess up, Mebbe I'd better double check the Jug.
I'll post again tomorrow.
Ride safe, Ted
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Shell is doing semi synth Rotella in some weights.