Keypass dies on trip

[VirginiaJim]

 

[Coomers]

No surprise kipass failed me again, does anyone have the part number to the new and improved spring.
I either have to fix it or sell it, I refuse to deal with something so unreliable.

[VirginiaJim]

I don't know if there is a replacement part number as it's part of the switch assembly.  Might be a new part number for the assembly, though.  Why don't you just take it in to a dealer?

[maxtog]

No surprise kipass failed me again, does anyone have the part number to the new and improved spring.

As Brian would say (I think)- technically Kipass did not fail, just a mechanical spring/switch combo.  Mostly semantics, though.

I either have to fix it or sell it, I refuse to deal with something so unreliable.

Sell it?  It should not be that dramatic; well known issue with the older Gen 1 C14.  Any good dealer should be able to fix it for you "permanently" by cleaning it and replacing the spring with the newer version.  If you bought the extended warranty, it should even be covered.

[B.D.F.]

Yeah, kinda' that is what I would say....  The activation switch is not part of KiPass but as others have often pointed out, it is the only path to get to KiPass, and either way the bike is just as stuck. I will say that it is a shame that the system has proven so reliable and the only real fault is the $0.07 worth of switch that is needed to 'wake up the system'. I have not heard of a singular failure of the KiPass system itself, just the activation switch.

Kawasaki seems to be acting pretty reasonably on this issue, even for bikes out of warranty. I have no direct knowledge of this, just going by what others have reported. IMO they should be generous about this issue as it was them who 'stepped in it' in the first place.

And of course there are various work- arounds for the immediate problem of a stuck bike that work to varying degrees. Plenty of info. elsewhere on this and the other forum for the interested person.

Brian

As Brian would say (I think)- technically Kipass did not fail, just a mechanical spring/switch combo.  Mostly semantics, though.

Sell it?  It should not be that dramatic; well known issue with the older Gen 1 C14.  Any good dealer should be able to fix it for you "permanently" by cleaning it and replacing the spring with the newer version.  If you bought the extended warranty, it should even be covered.

[Coomers]

Well I continue to struggle with this keypass switch thing. does anyone know of a step by step procedure to replacing the spring?

[just gone]

Well I continue to struggle with this keypass switch thing. does anyone know of a step by step procedure to replacing the spring?

I only know of the pictorial procedure linked to in post #2 of this thread. It doesn't have every step, but it appears to have the important ones. It seems that you will need to know how to remove the upper triple clamp. It's also been suggested here that you order the security bolts before you start.

[whatcom]

Just flush out the plunger once a year with WD and you will be fine!
I covered this in post # 7. Kawasaki will do this for free for all older bikes through a TSB, although the dealers may be reluctant as it is pretty involved and the reimbursement from Kawasaki is small to the dealers.
The main issue is grime building up in the couple of inches long square plastic plunger to the switch that is located under the ignition switch (making it sticky). On the older bikes, you can barely see the metal tab that pushes against the square plastic plunger at the 10 o'clock position next to the key hole. If your bike will turn on, you will see the plunger up against that tab, if not, you will see the plunger stuck in the square hole held by the grim buildup. This stuck plunger keeps the switch activated and the ecu sees the activated switch as an error when turned on again.
The newer bikes not only have the stronger spring but more importantly have a couple of shields around the square plunger to help keep the grime out.


Am sure if you just clean it out once a year with some WD, you would not have any problems. The stronger spring just helps push against the grime.
As for the security bolts, they will break off when trying to remove them but can just be replaced by regular bolts.

[B.D.F.]

Yes, replacing the security bolts with new security screws is certainly one option and absolutely the one any reputable dealer would do. But just for consideration, replacing the screws with stock, removable versions is also worth considering just in the odd event someone might have to get in there again somewhere down the road (pun intended). After all, is there really much point to the security screws in the first place? Again, just a different thought for consideration.

Brian

I only know of the pictorial procedure linked to in post #2 of this thread. It doesn't have every step, but it appears to have the important ones. It seems that you will need to know how to remove the upper triple clamp. It's also been suggested here that you order the security bolts before you start.

[B.D.F.]

The spring Kawasaki uses is not available to us consumers and has no part number. I think the best thing you can do is to replace the stock spring with something of a similar size but higher compression rating.

As an aside, it is too bad they just increased the pressure of the spring that returns the switch anyway. The true 'cure' would be a positive mechanical connection between the key cylinder assembly, including the stove knob key, and the activation switch. That way there would be a visual verification that the system did in fact return- you could see the key bounce back up to full height, as well as a way to exert mechanical force to lift up from the depressed position at any time. Not the best design IMO and not the best way to address the problem once it was exposed.

Not to belabor the point but in the event anyone is interested, I do sell a work- around for a stuck activation switch. It will prevent that problem from stranding the bike and the rider. http://incontrolne.com/incontrol_9_mar_2014_005.htm

Brian

Well I continue to struggle with this keypass switch thing. does anyone know of a step by step procedure to replacing the spring?

[Coomers]

Update,

6 weeks ago using the key from the fob I sprayed with WD40 the area where the tab is while activating the switch. I don't want to get into what is the best solution to use, WD40 simply was what was on the shelf. I'm happy to say after countless start ups I haven't had a problem since.

I'm planning another trip in Sept and will spray it again for good measure but feel as long as I consider this a by-monthly maintenance thing, I shouldn't have the problem going forward.

There, I jinxed it.

[556ALPHA]

The spring Kawasaki uses is not available to us consumers and has no part number. I think the best thing you can do is to replace the stock spring with something of a similar size but higher compression rating.

As an aside, it is too bad they just increased the pressure of the spring that returns the switch anyway. The true 'cure' would be a positive mechanical connection between the key cylinder assembly, including the stove knob key, and the activation switch. That way there would be a visual verification that the system did in fact return- you could see the key bounce back up to full height, as well as a way to exert mechanical force to lift up from the depressed position at any time. Not the best design IMO and not the best way to address the problem once it was exposed.

Not to belabor the point but in the event anyone is interested, I do sell a work- around for a stuck activation switch. It will prevent that problem from stranding the bike and the rider. http://incontrolne.com/incontrol_9_mar_2014_005.htm

Brian

A definite must for those distant out of town trips.....love having the security and peace of mind of the work-around

[B.D.F.]

Thanks. And that is the very reason the bypass exists: it absolutely will work and uses absolutely no chance or 'hope'. The stuff I sell for the C-14 is only there because I was 'fixing' the bike in the first place IMO and am really just passing along the ability to others. So it is really great to hear that it is "working" for you exactly as I intended it to work for me: it simply removes the possibility of the problem for all time and we can simply forget about that whole issue forever.

Brian

A definite must for those distant out of town trips.....love having the security and peace of mind of the work-around

[PH14]

KIPASS didn't fail.  A piece of stamped steel and weak spring did.  Same components a keyed system use.

No, not really, a key would still turn and allow the bike to start.

[PH14]

Update,

6 weeks ago using the key from the fob I sprayed with WD40 the area where the tab is while activating the switch. I don't want to get into what is the best solution to use, WD40 simply was what was on the shelf. I'm happy to say after countless start ups I haven't had a problem since.

I'm planning another trip in Sept and will spray it again for good measure but feel as long as I consider this a by-monthly maintenance thing, I shouldn't have the problem going forward.

There, I jinxed it.

That isn't the best idea. The WD40 will "fix" it temporarily, but will then allow dirt to stick to it making the problem worse. You are better off cleaning it with something that has no lube.

[VirginiaJim]

P on it?

[gPink]

P on it?

That might work, just be sure to set it on the hot exhaust to get the full benefit.

[VirginiaJim]

 

[B.D.F.]

Sure, that may be true but in reality, who would WANT to ride a bike without KiPass?

Remember when the ad said 'A day without orange juice is like a day without sunshine'.? What they really meant is that a day without KiPass isn't worth living....

Brian

No, not really, a key would still turn and allow the bike to start.

[maxtog]

That isn't the best idea. The WD40 will "fix" it temporarily, but will then allow dirt to stick to it making the problem worse. You are better off cleaning it with something that has no lube.

+1

WD40 is a bad thing to use on locks and such.  You don't want wet/sticky lube hanging around in there and building up and gathering gunk.  Blech