Do you think think that phils wedges would work with these risers? I've really like the change in the angle but still want to be back further than with the murphs risers.
Phils / Murphs Wedges will work with my pullback risers giving an extra 1/2" of offset / pullback towards the rider for a total of 2 inches of offset / pullback. In the pictures you notice that the clutch line is nearly tight, still has a little slack in it even when the lever is pulled. The brake side has slightly more slack than the clutch side. I can turn the bars from stop to stop without binding. It will require a couple different bolts which I will supply. I'll add an option for the bolts on the webpage today.If possible could you take a photo from a little further away showing the pullback with the wedges? Maybe from the side. Thanks
I assumed that chronological common sense could be applied, I do use the quote function if I am referring to a response that is not directly above my reply. Sorry for the confusion. I see your point and have no interest in a pointless pissing contest over something simple.
Phils / Murphs Wedges will work with my pullback risers giving an extra 1/2" of offset / pullback towards the rider for a total of 2 inches of offset / pullback. In the pictures you notice that the clutch line is nearly tight, still has a little slack in it even when the lever is pulled. The brake side has slightly more slack than the clutch side. I can turn the bars from stop to stop without binding. It will require a couple different bolts which I will supply. I'll add an option for the bolts on the webpage today.
Just a suggestion, as you have spent some time and money here to develope those;
I see that you have created compound angles at the sides of the mount, to allow them to clear the top of the fork caps, might want to consider early on (i.e. now) creating some more "relief" in that area (possibly like a cylindrical recess/cut out/counterbore) to allow those that have the need to lower the front end, the capacity to do so (dropping the trees on the fork tubes and exposing 1/2"-3/4" of the top).
Even though I don't need this option, many here have lowered the suspension, and I have seen broken hadlebars because the did so without realizing the forks were jammed against the bars, flexing them and placing undue stress on them. The current config of your design does not allow for "lowering" the front of the bike.
This took a considerable amount of effort to create. I hope this gives a good representation of what they can do.
Kewl- that does look like it was a LOT of work. Plus you used the best Concours- the silver 2011 Also looks like you kept the bike and camera exactly the same (tripod)- great idea. Did you do all that today??? I would suggest you state the arm length too, since that is not a direct proportion to height. Not sure how one measures that... armpit to fingertips? Those pictures would look quite different if I were sitting on there :O
Plus, I am interested for you to address MAN OF BLUES' comment about the fork tubes...
As for "Man of Blues", he's correct, the 1st generation of Pullback Risers won't allow for lowering the front end...there will be a version 2 which will accommodate this modification. I'll just need to remove a bit more material. It's hard to plan for every possible modification but I'll make it happen.
Check these out.
They work on 08-12 C14's, are powdercoated to match the stock handlebars and come with all the hardware needed to mount them. $350 for about 3" of rise and a huge 3" pullback.
Check these out.
They work on 08-12 C14's, are powdercoated to match the stock handlebars and come with all the hardware needed to mount them. $350 for about 3" of rise and a huge 3" pullback.
Excuse me for being a butthead but is it polite to jump in another man's thread with a like product? You started a thread to sell your stuff as this man did. I've got no other interest other than it seems the wrong way to do business.
Just a suggestion, as you have spent some time and money here to develope those;
I see that you have created compound angles at the sides of the mount, to allow them to clear the top of the fork caps, might want to consider early on (i.e. now) creating some more "relief" in that area (possibly like a cylindrical recess/cut out/counterbore) to allow those that have the need to lower the front end, the capacity to do so (dropping the trees on the fork tubes and exposing 1/2"-3/4" of the top).
Even though I don't need this option, many here have lowered the suspension, and I have seen broken hadlebars because the did so without realizing the forks were jammed against the bars, flexing them and placing undue stress on them. The current config of your design does not allow for "lowering" the front of the bike.
nice looking machine work though.