Author Topic: junction box  (Read 3471 times)

Offline flyboy3107

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junction box
« on: June 20, 2012, 07:07:18 PM »
my junction box on my 95 connie seems to be giving me trouble. I went to ride the other day, turned on key, nothing! No lights , dash lights etc. If you wiggle the plug, I get lights, but then it goes off again. Any help would be grateful. A new JB is about 170.00. Don't want to spend that if it is something simple

Offline Rick Hall

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Re: junction box
« Reply #1 on: June 20, 2012, 07:46:23 PM »
Wiggle what plug? And are you certain the battery cables are tight and corrosion free? Includes the starter relay terminals.

If it happens again, give the fuse box (J-Box) a light tap with your fist. If everything comes back on, a J-box repair is in order.

I'm not in the bidness of replacing the relays in the J-box, those are generally what goes bad, but I do have a bunch in the basement waiting to be installed in something. If nobody chimes in, give me a shout.

Rick
Rick Hall     1994 ZG 1000 "Sam"      xCOG #1914 (CO)
  GfNi H.P.   DOD #2040   1kQSPT 14.16   IBA #3274
    The Kawasaki Concours page at: www.zggtr.org

Offline flyboy3107

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Re: junction box
« Reply #2 on: June 20, 2012, 07:59:10 PM »
It is the plug with the eight copper terminals. The other plug has 14 smaller silver terminals. It is the plug that all of the fuses are running off of. I will check all of my connections ,make sure it is corrosion free. Thanks

Offline Rick Hall

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Re: junction box
« Reply #3 on: June 20, 2012, 08:31:50 PM »
Jiggling the connector may have done the same thing as rapping the J-box itself. Next time (if there's one) just rap the box.

If handy with a soldering iron, the J-box isn't that complicated.

Remove the J-box from the bike, remove all the fuses, remove the rubber strap. On the back side you'll see five (I think it's five) heat melted rivet heads. Drill these out. Not all the way through, just drill the heads off. 1/4" drill bit is just fine, just don't drill all the way through! :)

Now you can remove the cover. Now remove the two phillips head screws (I think it's two) and the circuit board will pop out.

Take note of any 'dry' or cracked solder joints or traces (it does happen). Note you can use a Q-tip soaked in isopropal alcohol (do NOT use good gin or whiskey!) to clean if needed.  Re-melt all the solder joints, adding a touch of fresh solder if you're so inclined.

Reassemble, don't worry about re-gluing the back on. The rubber strap will hold it. And the front is open to moisture anyway.

Report back.

Rick
Rick Hall     1994 ZG 1000 "Sam"      xCOG #1914 (CO)
  GfNi H.P.   DOD #2040   1kQSPT 14.16   IBA #3274
    The Kawasaki Concours page at: www.zggtr.org

Offline GeeBeav

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Re: junction box
« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2012, 07:39:57 AM »
What Rick said. With a magnifier you may be able to see the offending bad solder joint. Good idea to go ahead and re-flow all of them.
In the days of my youth, I was told what it means to be a man.

Offline Motor Head

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Re: junction box
« Reply #5 on: June 21, 2012, 07:46:37 AM »
1990 ZG1000 C10
1982 KZ1000 LTD

Offline flyboy3107

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Re: junction box
« Reply #6 on: June 21, 2012, 07:36:30 PM »
Ithink I may have figured it out,I plugged in the 2 connectors into circuit board, board was not installed in case, turned key,nothing, wiggled the three relays, light came on was able to start bike. I don't know if it is all three relays, or just one, I could wiggle all of them and they would do the same thing, no lights, no power. so I am going to resolder all three and see if that helps. Thanks for all the help! Nice weather is finally here and I want to ride it!

Offline flyboy3107

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Re: junction box
« Reply #7 on: June 23, 2012, 01:01:27 PM »
It fixed my problem! Awesome job by all. Thanks!

Offline bbroj

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Re: junction box
« Reply #8 on: June 25, 2012, 04:42:57 AM »
Way to go! Ypu saved it before it melted down, like mune did. I got a "new" one from Ebay and resoldered all of it and added upgraded relays, easy and cheap!
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