Hey guys so just rode 900miles to Kennewick Washington to surprise my dad. Got within two miles and under hard excelleration when I shifted if "slipped" out of gear and doesn't seem to engage any gears. I'm gonna let it cool down right now and try in a couple mins to see if maybe the clutch over heated or something. If I had to guess this is not the problem.

Main questions are how screwed and I. Did I blow the trans or did something like the shift level slip. The isn't any oil leaking or signs of a mass failure.

Please help me ASAP. And if someone knows what happened could you point me in the direction of how to fix it. I will go buy the tools I need.  Have a limit supply on me.

Ok I let it cool down and nothing. It make a little clanking sound when I'm where first should be. Won't go into any gear.

When you have it where you think is neutral is the neutral light on?

With the motor running, try to shift it to first like you normally would then shut the bike off and see if you can roll it forward.

While your trying to roll it forward in first, listen for sound at the rear wheel.  You could possibly have stripped rear wheel splines.

I should add that it "slipped" in between gears once before. So I would assume the rear wheel is fine.(all looked good in there a week ago anyhow). The neutral light will light up. When I go into 1st the wheel free spins doesn't act like its in gear. With it running and shifting into first some clicking sounds like it wants to go into gear but doesn't.

Not sure if this is the same on our bike but this seems almost like my problem. https://zzrbikes.com/threads/81144-Can-t-get-into-gear-shifter-wont-do-anything-stock-between-2-speed

I'll be in Kennewick for a week and found a spot with tools to work on it. 

No idea but ck the shift linkages and splined attachment point.  My spline connection was loose.  I also had the bright idea to adjust the shifter upward for easier use with boots and then it wouldnt shift out of 1st gear because shifter was hitting the shiny cover so i moved it back and all was fine.  I discovered the loose spline when i was messing around trying to raise the shifter, not because i was having an issue.

Bike is still sitting in a parking lot gonna hopfilly pick it up later. I'll look at the shift linkage but I don't think that is the problem. The bike acts like its shifting (meaning neutral light turns on when in n and will go out when I shift to 1st. Please keep the ideas coming.

Just a possible cause. You might have broken some fingers off the clutch star spring and one of the pieces is wedged into your clutch so as not letting it disengage and holding the clutch open.

Thanks guys for all of your replies keep em coming. I'm gonna start pulling stuff off the bike tonight or tomorrow morning and will find out what's wrong I hope. That way I can get parts orders as quickly as I can. Didn't bring my manual  . Should be fun. I'll keep everyone posted.

You can pull the clutch cover w/out draining the oil. Make sure it's on the side stand tho.

On centerstand, can you rotate the rear wheel smoothly by hand? When in a gear?

Am thinking the splines on the drive shaft may have stripped. The forward splines, not so much; but there have been a few instances of the rear splines shearing off (or wearing out).

How many miles on the bike?

BTW/FWIW, the cheesy OEM tool kit is adequate for many road-side repairs.

Rick

Ok bike on center stand I am able to freely spin the wheel. The shifter will engage N and 1st but won't go up(I believe this is normal but not sure). When I spin the wheel in 1st or N I hear a clunking sound coming from the driveshaft/final gear. So I'm gonna start there in the morning. My vacation just got a whole lot more greasy.

bike has 49k.

You can only shift into second (or higher) if the rear wheel is turning. Doesn't apply to downshifting.

On the centerstand, and rear wheel well off the ground, start the bike. Shift through the gears (into second is probably fine), gently applying the rear brake as a load after each shift.

Rick

Ouch.... good luck with the repairs Bro. Hope you manage it soon as well.

Easy boys!








OK, I suppose this is no joking matter, so I take it back.

Well I snapped the driveshaft. I believe I have to pull the swing arm to remove it. Is that correct. Anyone know of a free online manual?

Correct, swing arm has to come off to replace the drive shaft. I have to ask, can you find a new/used drive shaft? 

Remove rear wheel and rear drive gear (the pumpkin)
Remove rear shock. Don't forget the air fill hose and damper adjust knob.
Remove dog-bones (makes the job easier).
Remove swing arm bearings. under the triangular plastic caps. A puller of some sort may be needed, you only have the threaded center hole to work with.
Slip swing arm off.
Pry the rubber accordion boot backwards, exposing a small hole on he driveshaft front 'hub'. You may have to rotate the hub to find the hole. Insert pin / drill bit in hole, compressing a short dowel pin and spring thereby allowing the driveshaft to be removed.

Don't loose the pin! The spring is a flat circular affair. Easy to figure out once all the parts are on the floor.

Man wish I could figure out how to post pictures. So I snapped the driveshaft clean off right in the middle. After getting the swing arm off we found that the u joint is almost sieved up in one direction. But free in the other. So figured I probably got on the gas at the exact moment it was binding up and snap. New driveshafts are on back order(of course) for 4-6 weeks. So gonna take my chances with a used one of fleabay. Thanks for all of your help everyone.

The basic forum understands picture/file links in your posts from off-site photo sharing sites like FakeBook and Web-Shots. If you want to upload pix *here*, this forum will allow that too. It's part of the membership fee you paid for signing up here (and worth every penny!). But you have to ask an admin to set you up, offering them a bribe may expedite the procedure. I'm just saying, not like the admins accept bribes of any sort!

Your old driveshaft couplings wore in to your machine. If you install a used drive shaft, I might suggest going easy on the "loud" handle for a modicum of time/miles to allow the newly mis-matched components to meld into oneness with the world. This is just my opinion.

Your U-joint may have wedged because the driveshaft broke, and not the other way around. May have.

No service procedures for greasing the U-joint, only "replace the drive shaft".

Light coat of grease, I like a high moly content grease (like CV joint grease), on the forward splined connection. And do anticipate a modicum of sweat and swear words when reinstalling the front joint. It's a real precision fit, but it *will* fit.

Rick

Easy boys!

OK, I suppose this is no joking matter, so I take it back.

Now?

If your tranny is not engaging enough I hear 'Chelsey Manning' is available for coffee and conversation.