Author Topic: So after her winter nap I go to start and have nothing. (Read 11259 times)

maxtog · « **Reply #40 on:** June 30, 2023, 05:58:14 AM »

Quote from: SVonhof on June 29, 2023, 07:59:21 PM

My voltage check was under zero load since I have zero response from the bike. But point taken. It could be the battery.

You *must* have some load on the battery to test it in any meaningful way (the multitester, itself, is almost zero load). Even a small load will do for a quick sanity check. Otherwise, you are just measuring "surface voltage." Just hook up a 12v incandescent lamp or something inline with your meter to test the voltage. If it drops much compared to no load, it is likely pretty dead. A true test requires a LOT of load (many dozens of amps over a significant amount of time, after being fully charged), but this simple test will tell you if it is enough to wake the bike up or not.

As others (and I) have said many times, the C14 is particularly picky about voltage (and good connections). A little too low and it will freak out, or do nothing at all.

SVonhof · « **Reply #41 on:** June 30, 2023, 07:52:29 AM »

So I pulled the battery out again and found a 12v bulb and tried to get it to light up and realized that the positive terminal has some corrosion on it (which doesn't look horrible), which was not allowing a good contact. I used the multimeter probes and touched the top of the terminals again and got nothing. If I touched at the bottom of the terminal block (under the floating nut), it was fine.

I have a battery on order now, coming Sunday (Amazon was $46 and the local dealer was $130).

SVonhof · « **Reply #42 on:** June 30, 2023, 08:22:10 AM »

BTW, I checked my records and the last time I replaced the battery was just over 6 years ago, so I am due.

Big Red · « **Reply #43 on:** June 30, 2023, 08:40:40 AM »

A load resistor that comes with some LED bulbs makes a good dummy load for a sanity check of your battery.

maxtog · « **Reply #44 on:** June 30, 2023, 04:05:30 PM »

Quote from: SVonhof on June 30, 2023, 07:52:29 AM

So I pulled the battery out again and found a 12v bulb and tried to get it to light up and realized that the positive terminal has some corrosion on it (which doesn't look horrible), which was not allowing a good contact. I used the multimeter probes and touched the top of the terminals again and got nothing. If I touched at the bottom of the terminal block (under the floating nut), it was fine.

You didn't tell us the voltage when it did light up in series with the meter

I am sure many of us are curious.

And yes, at 6 years, it is overdue for replacement, most likely. This is especially true if the battery ever sat for long in a low charge state. I have yet to have a battery last that long, even using a battery tender on it ALL the time it is not ridden.

SVonhof · « **Reply #45 on:** June 30, 2023, 04:15:17 PM »

Quote from: maxtog on June 30, 2023, 04:05:30 PM

You didn't tell us the voltage when it did light up in series with the meter I am sure many of us are curious.

And yes, at 6 years, it is overdue for replacement, most likely. This is especially true if the battery ever sat for long in a low charge state. I have yet to have a battery last that long, even using a battery tender on it ALL the time it is not ridden.

It didn't light up because I could not get any voltage from the positive terminal where I connected it.

dl1911 · « **Reply #46 on:** July 02, 2023, 04:24:27 PM »

Okay so yesterdays diagnosis was slightly more productive.

Does anyone think the actual ignition switch could be bad? I have battery voltage going to the KiPass housing and ignition switch but I have no voltage getting back to the main ECU or the KiPass ecu?

I can turn the motor over with the starter but I have no dash, fuel pump or ignition.

Ideas?

I also checked continuity between all the joing terminals and the main plug under the left fairing.

Freddy · « **Reply #47 on:** July 02, 2023, 06:56:42 PM »

I have not heard for a faulty ignition switch assembly (apart from stuck activation switch) in the 16 years I've had one and been on these forums.

Did you remove some plastic and thoroughly inspect for rodent damage?

See reply 27.

dl1911 · « **Reply #48 on:** July 03, 2023, 03:59:25 AM »

Freddy,

I have removed all of the plastics from the dash rearward. I still havent found any rodent damage.

The next alternative I guess is to pull the front to get the ignition/KiPass housing.

This is really starting to get frustrating! As much as I love this motorcycle it has WAY to much electronic crap on it!

The search comtinues!!!

Freddy · « **Reply #49 on:** July 03, 2023, 05:02:50 AM »

Have you checked on top of the valve cover?

The ign swiitch ECU is NOT where KIPASS lives, which is the black box (ECU) under the seat with 1 harness connector.

I do not think that KIPASS is the problem.

Yours is a very rare issue. As I've said, if there is no rodent damage, try another fuel injection ECU as described earlier.

As for electronics - newer models & makes have LOTS more.

SVonhof · « **Reply #50 on:** July 03, 2023, 11:49:13 AM »

My issue is solved. New battery is installed and it started right up. I have it on the charger now and will bring it in for it's annual inspection in a few days.

I hope dl1911 can get his figured out soon.

maxtog · « **Reply #51 on:** July 03, 2023, 01:42:09 PM »

LOL! I am very glad yours is fixed now and it was just the battery.

DL's issue might be a tad less straight-forward, unfortunately.

dl1911 · « **Reply #52 on:** July 03, 2023, 02:45:46 PM »

Freddy,

Where is the fi ecu box located?

Freddy · « **Reply #53 on:** July 03, 2023, 06:06:33 PM »

There are 4 black boxes under the seat; one with 3 plugs is the Relay box; one with 2 plugs is the FI ECU; one with 1 plug which is the KIPASS ECU ; and one with no plug which is the tool box.

dl1911 · « **Reply #54 on:** July 04, 2023, 06:47:39 AM »

Freddy,
Okay I was misunderstanding the nomenclature. I understood this box to be the main ecu.
If I replace it, it will have to be reflashed using the KDS system correct?
I am trying my best to avoid having to have to take this in to the dealer.
I dont have a lot of faith in the local Kawasaki dealers to get this fixed.

Freddy · « **Reply #55 on:** July 04, 2023, 05:33:42 PM »

If I replace it, it will have to be reflashed using the KDS system correct?

See reply 29.

Where are you located? Perhaps someone on the COG forum with KDS can help you out.

dl1911 · « **Reply #56 on:** July 04, 2023, 06:11:01 PM »

Im in Alliance, Ohio

Freddy · « **Reply #57 on:** July 05, 2023, 03:20:11 AM »

Are you going to buy that ECU off ebay?

dl1911 · « **Reply #58 on:** July 05, 2023, 04:20:39 AM »

I havent decided to buy anything just yet. Im still searching for the culprit before I start spending money.
If I need to replace the ecu I need to find someone able to do the re-register.
Figure in those costs.
The dealers around here are very high on their shop rates.

Freddy · « **Reply #59 on:** July 05, 2023, 05:09:48 AM »

l have asked on the COG forum if someone with KDS can help you, with a link to this thread.

News:

Author Topic: So after her winter nap I go to start and have nothing. (Read 11259 times)