The F1 light on my new to me 2012 C14 is on. Reading the code it says error 24, speed sensor. Is this a wheel speed sensor or a sensor on the output shaft of the trans? I did a search but didn't turn up much. This was the only code displayed. I have not tracked down the cabling for the wheel sensors yet to ensure it is all in place.

That being said, I don't have an ABS warning light on and the speedometer/odometer works.

Thoughts?

It's the sensor on the trans output shaft. 

If it were a wheel seed sensor it would be a Bxx code.

Thanks for clearing that up.

Not sure which FSM you are using, but I have a 13 up and a '08-'10, both are pretty specific, and tell you how to inspect that speed sensor, using Ohm /Volt meter, and external 10ohm resistor, and also volts etc.. check the electrical section, the tests are pretty easy...

as this was an ex-LEO bike, they may have had a cruise control unit, spliced in on that harness, in that area.. and resultingly may have snipped the signal wires from the cruise, which may be seen when you examine that 3 wire harness to the sensor..

let me know what you find, or if you need additional Instruction on the testing.

Nothing that complex. Wires are intact. Lots of gunk in that area. Cleaned around it and pulled the sensor and cleaned it too. Put it back and the error is gone.

That was easy.

Edit: Never mind. Error came back. New sensor shipped today anyway.

Nothing that complex. Wires are intact. Lots of gunk in that area. Cleaned around it and pulled the sensor and cleaned it too. Put it back and the error is gone.

That was easy.

Edit: Never mind. Error came back. New sensor shipped today anyway.

what FSM do you have? It is very descriptive in trouble shooting that sensor...

let me know, I'll send you the test procedure for making sure it's bad... $$$$ is not a way, I know, but you can't return lectrical parts...

shoot me an email/pm with email addy..

 while you are at it, and waiting, remove the battery, scrub the terminals and connectors with sand paper, charge the battery fully on a "manual" charger, (not a tender charger), and also clean the frame ground points... abrasively.. you need a fully charged batt, that is in good shape, to continue.. if you buy a new batt, make sure to charge it also, on a manual battery charger, to make it fully active, and responsive.. this bike relies on the battery for everything..

Getting back to this. Got the little y harness to test input and output voltage of the sensor. That all seemed okish. Output voltage seemed like it was low but my manual also stated 2 ranges which seemed weird to me. When I put the bike in first on the center stand and read the output voltage with the bike idling it was 2.245 volts. When I had it sitting still it was in much lower like .045v. Input voltage was 11.04v. Just out of the 9-11v range.

That led me to look at the cabling. I looked for the blue with yellow wire, and found it going to a box under the seat in a plug in the middle of three. I assume it was the same wire but when I unplugged the connector and tried a continuity test from the two plugs it didn't test as connected. Am I wrong, are these not the same color, blue w/ Yellow stripe? I don't do well identifying wire colors, I'm a little bit red/green color blind. I did verify continuity on both sides of that crimp and then put some liquid electrical tape where I cut away some shrink wrap.

Not quite following wha you were testing, and how, i.e., what section in manual you were following..

testing that actual sensor itself can be done like "below"

don't assume "wires by color" at remote or other points of the bike, are the "same circuit"... they are NOT....
you were messing around with the relay box, not good.. don't do that.

those have nothing to do with the speed sensor.

that wire you were messing with at the relay module is a wire that goes to the high beam....so... don't do that.... probing the solid state relay box, and also the ECU, without tracing the actual runs can cause catastrophic $$$


OK;
went and looked, and now I see what you were attempting... I can't tell how you made your "pigtail connections", so I don't know what you were reading.. but i see the voltage thing, and the different readings with the wheel still, and wheel being rotated by hand...

it may be wonky looking because the actual sensor is at fault, usually the actual wire and volts etc., to the "device" 99% of the time are fine, the "device" it self is what needs testing... use the picture I posted above, that is the way to inspect it disconnected and off the bike...

I'm in the middle of replacing a starter on my truck, I'll come back and go thru it again when I finish...
Battery + volt meter + a resistor hooked up...easy inspection.

I don't think it is the sensor. I put a new onin with no change. Still have error code 24. The next step was getting the Y harness reference in the service manual to check the voltages.

I'll promise not to go probing any more wires without physically tracing them.

I charged the battery and cleaned the ground connections near the battery on the frame.

At thus point I am going to move forward with fixing the other items and seeing how things are before I am ready to button it back up.

Also, RH engine mount back is cracked. I have a replacement. LH engine subframe mount at the front near the radiator was snapped. Just received the replacement. Both those appear to be damage from stresses transfered from the police bathroom bars. Actual frame looks fine. There is a dent in a cylinder on the left front of the engine above the oil filter. Not sure what that part is. Will get a photo in a bit. Police bikes do appear to take a beating. Seat, hand grips and peg rubbers are all pretty worn.

Otherwise seems to be this error code, leaky valve cover gaskets and minor wear and tear.

that would be the "oil cooler", looks ok, I wouldn't freak over it, but it's hit the ground now that you say what you've just noted...

I don't see it as "crashed", but a parking lot "oooops" would do those things.  All the Cop Bikes had crash bars, your's didn't... and I know they pulled them off... because, they would "talk"...

The bike is running, albeit with an error code, but it's running... I dig a bit more and send it to ya, and maybe we can get that error code cleared, and fixed.

oh, send me a schematic, or sketch, of you "pigtail Plug thingy" you made, noting which wires were used for what, in the process, and I can apply that to what I know about the circuits, ecu, and meter gage unit, in combo with the actual sensor output, in Bike on (not running), Bike on running, and anything else.

It was a kawasaki available part. Throttle Sensor Setting Adapter #1: 57001-1400.
It is just a male and female plug of the type on the speed sensor with a pigtail off each wire for a probe. I probably could of gotten the connectors from Eastern Beaver to make one myself but it would of cost the same and taken 10 days to arrive.

Yeah, nothin told me it had crashed. On side has a scuff on the fairing that tells of a low speed oops. The other parts were just cracked, both where the crash bars would attach. I'll getting back into it Sunday. Going riding on the DL650 tomorrow.

I now have additional information. Three weeks ago I buttoned everything up, mounted a new tire and ignored the F1 light and took it for a nice 400 mile jaunt. It was beautiful. One day I will be able to enjoy it even more without the error light and LCD taken over by the F1 error.

On this ride I noticed that my gear position indicator was often wrong and would vary reading of what gear I was in even though I had not shifted. I might be in 4th but it will read that I am in 3rd. A bit later without having shifted it may read 5th.

Another item is the KTRC light is always on. Not sure if this is normal.

So today, when I finally had free time again, I removed some left side plastic and started investigating again. I went through the diagnostic in the manual to check the input and output of the speed sensor. Input was 11.10V, manual says 9-11 volts. Output was 4.67v. Manual says more than 4.6V.

Manual says to check the wiring harness and refers to a diagram. I happen to notice the next section is for troubleshooting the gear position sensor, so I flip over the page and see the diagram for that circuit. Both have one item in common, junction connector 8.

So a little reading and a look at the big diagram at the back of the book tells me that junction 8 appear to be where 4 wires of the same type color all come together somewhere on the bike. Now the million dollar question is, where the frick is junction connection 8 location on the bike? I'm pretty sure that is where my problem now lies.

"JUNCTION 8" is one of the many common "tie points" of ground wires/circuits, they are all over the place on this bike.. all of them connect grounds from various points, and combine them to be sensed thru the 'canbus' system..before going back to the "main" ground junction. I'll look thru the book for you particular model, and also "junction 8"

This is what they look like after the tape & cap is removed.

I found it and checked it for continuity. It checks as good so I don't think that is it.

It is right by where the speed sensor and gear indicator sensor tie into the harness.


Everyone replied while I was trying to figure out how to embed the photo.

I think you still have one or more 'missed' COP connections, that were pulled off, and may be the culpret, still..
Joint 9 ties into 2 other circuits also, been going thru the diagrams since I last posted, the front signals, and some other things are tied via inner connections, from J9 to J8..KTRAC is also somewhere in there.. I think they had a cruise control installed on that bike at some point, and don't know which one they used.. but I'm sure it's a logical point of 'searching' for that wire that was tied in, for speed sensing, KTRAC, and gear as you are searching now..

On my diagram it lists item 5 as metering box with a blue/yellow stripe wire. Is the meter unit the relay box? The relay box on top of the ECU has a blue w/yellow strip wire that looks to have been spliced. With ECU and Relay box unplugged I tried to test connectivity on that wire and got nada. If that is the correct wire then that is my issue, signal doesn't actually reach the ecu/relay box from the sensor. The harness for checking puts the multimeter in parallel so that wouldn't show during that test.

 This is from me looking at the diagram on page 17-42 on the 25-19 manual. No where else in the book do I see anything referred to as a
 meter unit.

A double check of the main diagram at the back shows a split on the bl/y wire that goes to both the metering unit and the ECU.

Edit: doh, is meter unit the gauge cluster? That could explain the speedo working but still having an error.

sorry, my eyes are shot for today, as I had severe reactions from pollen riding last week..
I'll look in morn, and post back up.

No worries. I'm not going back out to the garage anymore tonight. I do have a little bit of work in the morning but then have the day free hopefully to get this sorted.

Thanks for double checking me.