Author Topic: Rear suspension bushings  (Read 21966 times)

Offline timsatx

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #40 on: January 23, 2012, 03:04:06 PM »
What would you recommend for lubrication?

Offline T Cro ®

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #41 on: January 23, 2012, 04:08:03 PM »
What would you recommend for lubrication?

With the use of "Oiled" Bronze lubrication is no longer paramount but I still grease mine with the same old EP-2 wheel bearing grease as I did before.
Tony P. Crochet
(SOLD) 01 Concours Winner of COG Most Modified in 2010

Offline Boomer343

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #42 on: January 24, 2012, 07:41:39 AM »
Part of the problem with my suspension was the over greasing of the original bushings pushing out the seals and of course letting road grit and water in. We're not greasing Cat Tracks so a little goes a long way.

Offline T Cro ®

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #43 on: January 24, 2012, 03:53:34 PM »
Part of the problem with my suspension was the over greasing of the original bushings pushing out the seals and of course letting road grit and water in. We're not greasing Cat Tracks so a little goes a long way.

Once you install bushings in place of the needle bearings the first time you go to grease them you will wonder if you dis something wrong as it will be very hard to pump the grease in. This is because of the fact that you now have a solid bushing to shoulder fit with very little clearance so the grease really has no where to go. All that is needed is one or two pumps once or twice a year at the most.
Tony P. Crochet
(SOLD) 01 Concours Winner of COG Most Modified in 2010

Offline jaydee1445

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #44 on: June 12, 2012, 07:28:25 AM »
ordered bushing from Patrick. He had no clue to what I was talking about when I asked for Concours bushing fix. Nice guy. he said it would take a couple of days to cut some 20mm bushings down to 16mm. $48.00 for parts.

enim57

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #45 on: June 12, 2012, 07:17:02 PM »
Interesting how all the old threads are showing up again. When I started this thread many years ago I had a drawing (somewhere) of the bushes I made. I found the hows, whys, and instructions for this modification. Some of this may be helpful.

Things to consider:
1) pin, rocker & linkage diameters were measured using a dial vernier calliper with 0.05mm increments, not the most accurate tool for this. Third decimal places were guesstimated by me. To convert mm to inches divide mm by 25.4, e.g., 20.003mm / 25.4 = 0.7875”.

2) diameters shown for pins, rocker & linkages were derived from averaging all the dimensions I measured. It is not practical to make a bush for each specific location.

3) bushes are longer than standard bearings and don’t leave a lot of grease cavity, shorten them if you want.

4) from memory (I did this a few years ago) 1 bush had to have its inside diameter opened up a bit and 2 bushes had to have their outside diameters reduced a bit, I did all of this by hand using fine emery cloth. The reason for this is a combination of tolerances, averaging of measurements, and poor measuring by me.

To remove the original bearings I placed cloth over a vice and draped between the jaws, then sitting the rocker on the vice with jaws opened just enough to let the bearing out I used a suitable sized socket as a drift and hit the bearing out.

To fit the new bush I placed heavy cloth over the vice as above and using the same socket as above, placed all pieces between the jaws & pressed the bush into its hole in the rocker until it was centred equally (measured this with vernier depth gauge). Do not bother with anti seize or lubricant as this is an interference fit and the anti seize will be scraped off. This method could be used to remove bearing but a packer would be needed to allow the bearing to come out.

Warning: when pressing the bushes in I “felt” 2 were too tight, that’s why I polished them down. I can’t describe “feel’, it is something you have naturally or have developed. If you are not confident in this have somebody who has the ability fit the bushes for you. If bushes are too large they will crack the aluminium body (die cast?) they go into. This is not good to repair, repair will be weaker than stock, and may distort the bore. Would you trust it? In this country where we eat the animals on our coat of arms the price would be about a slab of beer to have the bushes pressed in place. Not much for peace of mind.

Disclaimer: you are welcome to use the drawings & I offer them freely but take no responsibility for any problems or damage you may encounter. I haven’t had any issues yet.

That’s it, please let me know how this mod works for you.


Note that point 3 coincides with what T Cro stated in reply 43. Very little goes in. I use moly grease.

Regards, Russell

Offline bbroj

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #46 on: June 29, 2012, 11:58:12 AM »
New seals (available only from Kawasaki)

Which seals for the entire project discussed here are required, and how many of them are there?
'12 C-14, Vance and Hines CS One muffler, lowered pegs, tank bra, bar risers, Phil's Farkles rack with Givi V46 top box, fender extender, Bucks tail brights, Canyon Cages and much more to come!
COG 9331
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Offline Boomer343

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #47 on: June 29, 2012, 03:11:17 PM »
Kawa part number....92049-1109       Seal - oil,arm,cnt      Quantity 10.....price $5.01...each.


Offline bbroj

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #48 on: June 29, 2012, 06:36:06 PM »
OUCH! $5.01 is not terrible, but it adds up quickly when you need 10! That and another $50 or so in bushings puts it over $100 in a hurry. Not that I don't feel it will be worth it, just a few bucks more than I was hoping for at the momment.
'12 C-14, Vance and Hines CS One muffler, lowered pegs, tank bra, bar risers, Phil's Farkles rack with Givi V46 top box, fender extender, Bucks tail brights, Canyon Cages and much more to come!
COG 9331
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=1302;type=avatar&time=1422479190

Offline T Cro ®

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #49 on: June 30, 2012, 05:39:18 AM »
OUCH! $5.01 is not terrible, but it adds up quickly when you need 10! That and another $50 or so in bushings puts it over $100 in a hurry. Not that I don't feel it will be worth it, just a few bucks more than I was hoping for at the momment.

Well then don't replace them.... Unless they are damaged in some way there is no reason not to reuse them as they are very easy to remove and re-install. Simply pry them out by placing a small screwdriver under their lip and pop them out.
Tony P. Crochet
(SOLD) 01 Concours Winner of COG Most Modified in 2010

Offline T Cro ®

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #50 on: June 30, 2012, 05:41:11 AM »
Well then don't replace them.... Unless they are damaged in some way there is no reason not to reuse them as they are very easy to remove and re-install. Simply pry them out by placing a small screwdriver under their lip and pop them out.

I've done the bushing job several times now and have nor replaced any of these seals.
Tony P. Crochet
(SOLD) 01 Concours Winner of COG Most Modified in 2010

Offline bbroj

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #51 on: June 30, 2012, 07:08:01 AM »
Sounds good to me. It sounds like it's something that can be done after the fact without too much disassembly if I do find a few bad ones.
'12 C-14, Vance and Hines CS One muffler, lowered pegs, tank bra, bar risers, Phil's Farkles rack with Givi V46 top box, fender extender, Bucks tail brights, Canyon Cages and much more to come!
COG 9331
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=1302;type=avatar&time=1422479190

Offline T Cro ®

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #52 on: June 30, 2012, 07:16:29 AM »
Sounds good to me. It sounds like it's something that can be done after the fact without too much disassembly if I do find a few bad ones.

Yes the seals are made of steel and are lipped so not only are they really easy to pry out they install just as easy as you can't seat them too deeply due to the lip. And even if you leave them out not a deal breaker at all as bushings are no where near as fussy as bearings are when it comes to grit/dirt. Pump in the fresh grease to purge out the old and wipe off the leakage/spillage.
Tony P. Crochet
(SOLD) 01 Concours Winner of COG Most Modified in 2010

Offline bbroj

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #53 on: June 30, 2012, 07:25:46 AM »
I like this project more all the time  ;D
'12 C-14, Vance and Hines CS One muffler, lowered pegs, tank bra, bar risers, Phil's Farkles rack with Givi V46 top box, fender extender, Bucks tail brights, Canyon Cages and much more to come!
COG 9331
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=1302;type=avatar&time=1422479190

Offline gpzrocker

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #54 on: June 30, 2012, 07:59:40 AM »
Mine are on the way, and I will be reusing all of my old seals. Looking forward to finishing this project. And if you decide to continue on, I found that my local bearing dealer to give me the best price on swingarm bearings, which I was in desperate need of. I got them for $10 apiece.

Offline Gitbox

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #55 on: July 03, 2012, 07:04:30 AM »
Quote
I've also fitted an extra bushing in the bolt fit of the dog bone to the rocker that removed any and all remaining slop in the linkage.


T, any pics of this maybe?


Thanks.
2008 Yamaha FJR1300A
2004 Yamaha FJR1300 (sold)
2000 Kawasaki Concours ZG-1000 (sold)

Offline T Cro ®

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #56 on: July 03, 2012, 09:26:01 AM »

T, any pics of this maybe?


No sorry.... One dog bone is held captive by the edge of the shoulder of the shoulder bolt and the nut and the other dog bone has a slightly oversized hole that floats on the shoulder OD Of the shoulder bolt and this is where the unchecked up and down slop comes from. I simply purchased a 20mm ID x 24mm OD x 16mm Length Bronze Bushing from McMaster.com part # 6658K43 to which I drilled out the dog bone to press fit the bushing and cut the bushings length to match the thickness of the hole that the bushing is fit into.
Tony P. Crochet
(SOLD) 01 Concours Winner of COG Most Modified in 2010

Offline Gitbox

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #57 on: July 03, 2012, 10:19:14 AM »
So in the diagram below you are referencing where 92002 passes through 46102 and attaches to 92015? And you drilled out 46102 for the bushing?


Or where 92002 passes through 46102A and you drilled that out? <-- I'm thinking this one.
2008 Yamaha FJR1300A
2004 Yamaha FJR1300 (sold)
2000 Kawasaki Concours ZG-1000 (sold)

Offline T Cro ®

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #58 on: July 03, 2012, 11:14:44 AM »
Yes drilled out 46102A and fitted bushing.
Tony P. Crochet
(SOLD) 01 Concours Winner of COG Most Modified in 2010

Offline Gitbox

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Re: Rear suspension bushings
« Reply #59 on: July 04, 2012, 09:45:27 AM »
I'm no ME, but I thought that was crappy design when I came across it during my rear suspension R&R. I was puzzled by the use of needle bearings also.


Next time I get in there it's getting bushings.
2008 Yamaha FJR1300A
2004 Yamaha FJR1300 (sold)
2000 Kawasaki Concours ZG-1000 (sold)