I bought my 09 last year and it had 5k on it. Currently I have a little over 14,000 miles on it and I truly love this bike! Last weekend I went for a ride with my wife and while traveling south on 95 in Florida I decided to break away from the gaggle of cars surrounding us.  Downshifted into 4th started to take off and when I got around 7500rpm it started slipping jumping up to 10,500/11k with the acceleration not coming close to matching the rpms. Shifted into 5th with same results once I hit 7.5/8 k. So I got off the throttle,  rode tamely for the rest of the ride to my destination.  On the way home I tried just purely accelerating with no downshifting and it happens every time in every gear. I'm reading on here about the stock clutch being rock solid is there anything else I should be looking into besides changing clutch??? Any input truly appreciated!!!

I bought my 09 last year and it had 5k on it. Currently I have a little over 14,000 miles on it and I truly love this bike! Last weekend I went for a ride with my wife and while traveling south on 95 in Florida I decided to break away from the gaggle of cars surrounding us.  Downshifted into 4th started to take off and when I got around 7500rpm it started slipping jumping up to 10,500/11k with the acceleration not coming close to matching the rpms. Shifted into 5th with same results once I hit 7.5/8 k. So I got off the throttle,  rode tamely for the rest of the ride to my destination.  On the way home I tried just purely accelerating with no downshifting and it happens every time in every gear. I'm reading on here about the stock clutch being rock solid is there anything else I should be looking into besides changing clutch??? Any input truly appreciated!!!

couple things...
8 year old bike, with only 5k miles on it... so we know it does a lot of 'parked time'
How much of this I do not know,

I assume you changed the oil, and filter, and serviced it, but it's likely no info available as to what transpired during the gap...
like, wrong oil being used... and/or worse.. maybe "additives" by some person not versed in wet clutch motorcycles... ( don't laugh, wayyyyy back when SLICK-50 was introduced, and I worked part time in a dealership servicing bikes... I had DOZENS of ruined clutches because someone added stuff...)

14k now on bike, and I also ask if the clutch hydraulic fluids have been purged/bled thru yet, it's more time related, so lets just say the bike sat for 8 years, and the brake and clutch systems are well due a purge and fluid replace.. maybe the clutch is not fully releasing due to a blockage... in the m/c.

Engine oil is suspect, and should be changed, and ridden, and changed again, along with a filter each time, to remove any possible traces of "slippery additives", or "friction modifiers" as they are called...

the clutch plates, and stackups, are really robust, I don't think we have seen anyone "having to " replace one yet because of abuse when correct lubes are in place.

that said, if you do go the route of replacing friction plates, (which would be all I would replace, with the correct ones, correcctly stacked, and presoaked in a suitable compatable oil), you should be off the hook cheaply, just do the frictions,( about $117 iirc) but clean and scrub the steel ones also, and refer to the FSM as for the positions of each.

also note, this bike like the C10, has star springs, that function to make the limited slip work, this bike has 4, opposed to the C10 design. We have not seen any issues yet with them, but I suspect we could... if a finger snaps off a star, and lodges between plates, it will cause a 'slip' condition... so no matter what, don't "hammer" the bike until the solution has been found, doing so will create an instance wwhere you have to replace the steel plates also, which adds in another $83, and makes for a little tougher job getting the correct stack height setup.

thanks for all that great info. As far as the oil goes I did oil and filter change as soon as I took possession of the bike and have changed it every 3k with the same brand Shell Rotella 15w40. I did order friction plates yesterday so while I am changing them out I will do the hydraulic fluids as you suggest. Now that you bring up the thought of previous owner using improper oil, which to me sounds like a likely suspect I am going to remove all bodywork thoroughly clean everything and replace the coolant while I am at it. Unbelievably this is really the first time I was really hammering it so it's not out of the question that he used wrong type oil and I'm just realizing it now. While I have it torn down if there's anything else anyone can think of that I should service/check/inspect/replace/adjust please chime in! thanks a million... 

I had identical symptoms on my 99 VFR. I replaced the clutch but the symptoms slipping continued.  Next I marked the tire to the wheel and went for a test ride. The tire was slipping on the rim, wasn't the clutch. Probably not your case but easy to rule out.
 

I had identical symptoms on my 99 VFR. I replaced the clutch but the symptoms slipping continued.  Next I marked the tire to the wheel and went for a test ride. The tire was slipping on the rim, wasn't the clutch. Probably not your case but easy to rule out.

Holy crap!!!!

I had identical symptoms on my 99 VFR. I replaced the clutch but the symptoms slipping continued.  Next I marked the tire to the wheel and went for a test ride. The tire was slipping on the rim, wasn't the clutch. Probably not your case but easy to rule out.

Wow!  That is amazing!  I would never even think that was possible!!!

I change my own tires. I suspect I neglected to properly clean the rim. Or maybe the tire was defective.

Wow!  That is amazing!  I would never even think that was possible!!!

It happens if tire mounting wax is used - more so under braking. 

You might want to make sure the slave cylinder that operates the clutch is in proper working order before you tear into that clutch.  If that doesn't have full range of motion, the clutch is going to have problems regardless of the condition of the friction discs.  It kinda makes sense to try the easier/cheaper things first.

Another thing you might check before tearing down the clutch itself.  The clutch SLAVE cylinder might be binding up and not fully releasing pressure on the clutch assembly due to some debris or gunk in it.

You might want to make sure the slave cylinder that operates the clutch is in proper working order before you tear into that clutch.  If that doesn't have full range of motion, the clutch is going to have problems regardless of the condition of the friction discs.  It kinda makes sense to try the easier/cheaper things first.

Makes sense and I will check first thanks!