Anyone know the parts Steve used to make the 7th gear bevel drive?

[Chrome Megaphone]

I gather he's no longer making it and anyway I couldn't afford it if he was.  Any clues on what bike the gears come from?

[Daytona_Mike]

ZG1200 - he hogs out the stock C10 housing and installs the larger gear from the zg1200. You would also require the use of a milling machine.

[Chrome Megaphone]

ZG1200 - he hogs out the stock C10 housing and installs the larger gear from the zg1200. You would also require the use of a milling machine.

Thanks!
If its just removing case material to clear I can do that with a die grinder and some patience. 
My bike was a non-runner so I didn't have a seat of the pants baseline for gearing, put in an Eliminator bevel box, and now it runs 4500 RPM at 75 MPH.  Not good considering I'm making a 3000 mile trip in May.

[Chrome Megaphone]

Has anyone here mounted a 160/80/16?  Does it rub? A taller rear might do it, I have a spare rear wheel and could make a travelling tire/rim set.   

[Stasch]

I don't know the particulars but shimming the bevel gear properly in the case is critical.

Steve recently posted on the COG site that there was only about 150 of these he converted. 

I think finding the Voyager gears was the limiter.

[Chrome Megaphone]

I don't know the particulars but shimming the bevel gear properly in the case is critical.

That's a good point.  I may gather the parts and see if a local differential shop is willing to dial in the gear lash.  In the meantime I'll go with the taller rear and just mosey along on the trip.

[Chrome Megaphone]

I'm going to take the dive and do it. Setting pinion depth and backlash isn't entry level but not rocket science either.  I'm going to research the steps further but far as I know now you use Prussian Blue dye on the gears to set pinion depth in the middle of the ring gear and a micrometer gauge on a stand to dial in the lash.  Will document the steps with pics and notes for anyone else that may wish to do it.

[George R. Young]

Section 10 of the factory manual has a bunch of info on adjusting the final drive.

[Big Red]

Just for visibility, when doing pinion/ring gear interfaces, the automotive "standard" color is yellow. I've used it for doing automotive diffs and it works well. https://www.amazon.com/Richmond-Gear-5500011-Marking-Compound/dp/B000MISKMU/

[Chrome Megaphone]

Just for visibility, when doing pinion/ring gear interfaces, the automotive "standard" color is yellow. I've used it for doing automotive diffs and it works well. https://www.amazon.com/Richmond-Gear-5500011-Marking-Compound/dp/B000MISKMU/

Section 10 of the factory manual has a bunch of info on adjusting the final drive.

If Steve wants to share any tips they're appreciated.

[works4me]

To the OP: I’m just curious. Why do you feel
4500 RPM @ 75 MPH is “not good”?

[Chrome Megaphone]

To the OP: I’m just curious. Why do you feel
4500 RPM @ 75 MPH is “not good”?

I always travel just a bit faster than the flow of traffic. 
On the gearing charts 80mph is 4800 rpms with the stock rear tire. With the 7th gear unit and wing tires I was around 4250 range. This thing is now running 80mph at a tick more rpms than I used to go 70mph. This thing purrs down the freeway at 80.
https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/7th-gear-mod.667/

[Chrome Megaphone]

I assume Kawasaki engineers targeted final gear ratios for the 55 MPH national speed limit, which also gave more responsive acceleration test numbers that every guy with a motorcycle magazine looked for. This was the mid-80's.

[Boomer]

It's very unlikely that Kawasaki even considered the 55Mph limit in the USA when most other countries had 70 or even higher speed limits.
It's far more likely that the gearing was fitted to the characteristics of the engine and gearbox.

In the USA you spend a lot more time at constant speed on long runs and since you mostly ride (or rode) low revving V-twins and you are (were?) not used to having an engine doing 5k Rpm for long periods of time, so people felt they needed to lower that Rpm and Steve figured out how.

In the rest of the world we mostly start riding on 50cc or 125cc bikes so we are used to higher Rpm engines.
A friend has a '91 CBR400RR (Gullarm) that she regularly tours on. That thing is doing 7500Rpm at 80Mph (redline is 14,500RPM) and yet has managed over 110k miles and still runs great. It is hilarious watching other road users trying to figure out where the rider is as at 4'11" she disappears when hunched down behind the screen and can't be seen from behind either due to her tail-pack.

[Chrome Megaphone]

Where's the torque peak on a 400 lmao

[m in sc]

usually at 5252. and i have a 48 yr old (modified) 70 hp 350 that will smoke most c10s up to 100.. actually up to 125.      I mean, you're not even halfway up to redline at 80. I never found it an issue but to each their own.   Good friend of mine did similar to above on an ex250. looped the us 2x on it (also a tiny woman, maybe 5'1").

 

[Chrome Megaphone]

Maybe I'm going to find out charging $500 for this was a bit much and hence the flaming thread derailment.

[m in sc]

im not sure as i haven't personally done it, but i would bet that material could be removed with a lathe with a big enough swing. that being said, let me know if you need help on that, i have a pretty big one at work that IF i can chuck it (by axle thru the hole) i can cut it.

[Chrome Megaphone]

Maybe just swapping the final drive for a Zg1200 will accomplish the same? 

[Chrome Megaphone]

The seller reported that compared to a C10 unit the Venture final drive is identical in every way EXCEPT the Connie is 3mm longer