15K Maintenance (my journal of events)

[roadie]

Just started my maintenance yesterday.  So far so well.  A little drama getting the bike on my Harbor Freight Bike lift...Damn thing scooted forward as I tried to drive up on it.  I'll have to figure out some better rigging for next time.

I plan on using this to document my work, and will keep pics here:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=22

I've got a snake camera that takes video, so if anyone wants any video of the guts the deeper I go, lemme know.  Not everyday we get a Connie open elbow deep, so anything specific you guys wanna see, just lemme know.


To do (not in specific order):
1. valve check (build gap/shim map)
2. throttle body sync
3. change spark plugs
4. Oil change
5. final drive oil change
6. check/clean air filter
7. cooling system checks:  change coolant
8. change brake/clutch fluid, install bleeders (on order), galfer clutch/brake lines (lines should arrive 16 Dec)
9. GSG Frame sliders (the correct way this time :-) (bolt should arrive 16 Dec)
10. clean rust off gas tank, lil spots here there...hit it with some primer
11. brake pads front, thoroughly clean calipers
12. check brakes rear (think they are still good)
13. Wheels and tires inspection: replace rear tire? Not needed.
14. lubricate levers, cables, kickstand, drive shaft
15. clean forks
16. rewire or get rid of extra cables I ran under gas tank for farkles...don't see me needing them anytime soon.
17. cable management of farkle wiring
18. fuel system checks
19. entire brake system check
20. Air suction system check
21. Clutch and Drive Train inspect
22. suspension checks
23. electrical system checks
24. check bolts, nuts and fasteners (wouldn't you know I found my vibration problem on the ride right side:  fairing stay bolt that was SUPPOSED to be connected to air dam was loose :-)
25.  ORder new subframe assembly bolts now, as manual says to replace everytime you yank them out...I didn't replace last time, so think I better this time.  any comments on this one? done.

3 Dec:
Oil changed/new filter:  10W-40 Synthetic (NoTE:  next time do AFTER valve adjust).
Final Drive Oil changed:  damn plug was kinda tight again, even though I didn't hunker down on it last time.
Removed all plastic

4 Dec (morning session):
Removed subframe brackets, air dam, fairing stays, stick coils, cam position sensor, cam shaft position sensor cover, various other brackets, head cover.

4 Dec (evening session):  Next Session, measured clearance on exhaust and intake.  Only one valve was at optimum measurement. cylinder 1 left side intake.  I'll draw up a map and post in pics.  Cams are out, and ready to start removing and measuring all shims and making a shim map.

5 Dec (morning session):  Pulled cylinder four shims and marked so I don't mix up.  Will measure today and build DRAFT map to use for entire shim map.  Will measure buckets tonight.

6-7 Dec:  Conducted all measurements.  Used Egg cartons to keep buckets and shims in order.  Built spreadsheet shim map to track values:  http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=185;dl.  Believe I'm ready to get some shims.

9 Dec:  New dealer did NOT have the right size shims for me.  So I ordered them.  Should be here 14 Dec.

17 Dec:  finally finished installing new shims, torques of cam holders/covers, and put header back on.  after i got the holders back on i made sure to rotate engine a couple full revolutions to make sure i didn't hear any sounds indicative of the cam being installed wrong.  What should have probably been a two  hour drill took me around four, as I had to open back up and exchange one more shim after everything was said and done.  Remember on cylinder 4 intake?  I didn't have an accurate measurement, so i guessed in my calculations, and i managed to get it in the zone with a 2.25 shim, but it is still at the bottom of the acceptable range.  I don't have anymore smaller shims to satisfy a mid range gap, so let it go.

18 Dec:  TOday I finished buttoning up the engine, put the cam position sensor cover back on.  Had to go buy some high temp sealant before i closed it up.  Also reinstalled stick coils, and associated harness.  Fired her up and looked for leaks...all good.  Boy I tell you once she turned on and sounded nice..I had to do a high five with my self.  I then proceeded to do the throttle body sync and whoop whoop, they were still all spot-on and balanced.   I bled the front brakes, installed new brake pads (the original set got 14,800 miles, and the wear markers were gone.  I also noticed what appeared to be chunks missing from the edges on a couple of the pads.  I cleaned the calipers with brake cleaner.  As i was cleaning the right side (I had both calipers unmounted), the left side cylinder seemed to almost "pop" out and started leaking brake fluid...is that normal?  I pushed it back in cleaned all up, installed the pads and then went on ahead and bled the front brakes.  Oh yeah, I'm quite the noob.  I didn't notice the calipers and master cylinders already had what appeared to be speed bleeder valves.  What is the difference between these OEM valves and the one's Murph sells?  If nothing, I just wasted money buying a set.  My bike has been down so long, I am opting not to install the galfer hoses yet.  Save for another day.  I also drained the coolant and put new coolant (Honda HP).  Managed to get much of the left side fairing stays back in place.

24 Dec:  So bled the front, rear brakes, and clutch.  Also installed the speed bleeders and the front galfer lines.  I'm a little confused though...how do these speed bleeders work??  How to make them bleed?  Don't need to bleed anything right now (already empty).  Is there a special attachment that pushes the check valve down?

25 Dec:  Merry Christmas!  Today I installed the rear Galfer break line, refilled rear brake fluid, and bled air out of system .  Its nice and tight now when engaging the rear break, so confident I got all air out.  I also refilled the clutch with brake fluid.  Bleeding it was a drawn out system, but got it pretty tight also.  I then installed new oil and dust seals in my front calipers.  Now I am quite confident I didn't lose it, but is it remotely possible my right caliper would have stayed airtight, even if for a while, missing an O-ring?  It would appear one half of one of the calipers was missing the O-ring that lays against the other on the opposite caliper half, creating the channel through which the brake fluid flows.  So damnit, need another part.  Just when I thought I was gonna get it done today. :-( 

5 Jan:  Didn't post earlier, but Since December, I installed front fork sliders, frame sliders, swing-arm protector, o-ring seal in left caliper, Tech Spec Tank Protectors, and asundry of smaller 15K checks.  Still having problem with air in front brakes, work well enough but still a bubble in there somewhere.  Since I have to get my VA state inspection done, I dropped off at the shop for them to do, and bleed my front lines for me.  Learned enough in this excursion...hit it again (but hell no on bleeding) in 7,500 miles.

Thanks for reading. 

[Gsun]

Add lube drive shaft. Those tires look like there is a lot of tread left. But I can only see the edges. Cupped so soon? PR 2's?

[roadie]

Add lube drive shaft. Those tires look like there is a lot of tread left. But I can only see the edges. Cupped so soon? PR 2's?

Will do thx. See my thread titled "understanding tire wear". I found weird too. Some folks discussing there. Would love your opinion. More pics,  maybe a video?

[B.D.F.]

This is a little late but you will want to blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air before removing either the spark plugs or the valve cover. There is a fair amount of debris in those wells and you won't want it dropping into the cylinders or flying around all over the cams, followers and the rest of the precision parts normally protected by the valve cover.

I would suggest slipping the valve cover back on, leaving the spark plugs in the holes (or putting them back in if already out) and using plenty of compressed air to blow out those wells. Then blow off the top of the valve cover and wipe it down before removing it. You don't have to put all the bolts back in, one on each side of the engine will do just to hold it in place.

Brian

<snip>

4 Dec:
Removed subframe brackets, air dam, fairing stays, stick coils, cam position sensor, cam shaft position sensor cover, various other brackets, head cover.[/list]

[roadie]

This is a little late but you will want to blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air before removing either the spark plugs or the valve cover. There is a fair amount of debris in those wells and you won't want it dropping into the cylinders or flying around all over the cams, followers and the rest of the precision parts normally protected by the valve cover.

I would suggest slipping the valve cover back on, leaving the spark plugs in the holes (or putting them back in if already out) and using plenty of compressed air to blow out those wells. Then blow off the top of the valve cover and wipe it down before removing it. You don't have to put all the bolts back in, one on each side of the engine will do just to hold it in place.

Brian

THx B,

I wiped very very good, and inspected again when I took it out. blew out, and also checked the sparkplug wells with my snake cam and they were clean as a whistle.[/list]

[roadie]

New Photos posted, and below my initial map of existing clearances.  I hope this is beneficial to those contemplating doing the 15K for the first time.  I'm new to this also, but making sure to go slow.  So far only one valve was in spec, so will get alot of practice this time around.

I won't riddle this thread with pics, but will post this one pic, the rest will keep being uploaded to my gallery at:

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=22

[Tactical_Mik]

Just a thought here, but you might want to use some rust reformer of one brand or another for the tank seam rust spots.  Should keep it at bay much longer than primer.  I did it a 1.5 years ago and haven't had it rise up yet.

[roadie]

Just a thought here, but you might want to use some rust reformer of one brand or another for the tank seam rust spots.  Should keep it at bay much longer than primer.  I did it a 1.5 years ago and haven't had it rise up yet.

good idea...I have been looking at some heavy duty stuff for my F250...she's got tons of undercarriage rust.  SOmeone recommended some stuff called bullet proof.

[Tactical_Mik]

I don't know how heavy duty this stuff is, but for the tank I used this.  http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=40

Years ago in Florida, I used a product called ospho or something like that for a home built utility bed.  It came in a larger container and we used a painting gun to apply it.  It leaves a pretty rough texture though.  Kind of like a new AR barrel.

[B.D.F.]

What you have there is probably OK but you cannot tell exactly how far you have to move that one valve that reads under 0.004". I would suggest getting a solid reading by finding a feeler gauge that will go into the gap and calling that one the low limit.

You can also go to one- half thousandth sizes with feeler gauges if you get a set that includes a 0.0015" feeler. Combine the 0.0015 feeler with other feelers as needed to test for all gaps that are likely to occur. For example, you can check the 'under 0.004" ' gap with a 0.0015 + 0.002 feelers which will make a 0.0035" feeler set. Just wipe both feelers with your fingers (they will be oily which is good) and turn the two feelers so one in on top of the other; the oil will hold them together and allow you to use the pair as a single feeler gauge.

Brian

New Photos posted, and below my initial map of existing clearances.  I hope this is beneficial to those contemplating doing the 15K for the first time.  I'm new to this also, but making sure to go slow.  So far only one valve was in spec, so will get alot of practice this time around.

I won't riddle this thread with pics, but will post this one pic, the rest will keep being uploaded to my gallery at:

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=22

[roadie]

Brian, I thought I woul have to get them to optimum levels (aside from the one which is below .004. Do I not need to get shims in the range of .001-.002 bigger than what is in there now?  I had planned on pulling each one so I could at least have an accurate inventory of what shim sizes I have for each valve.

[B.D.F.]

I am not sure I am follow you here Will but first of all, you need to know the gap that is there. Less than XXX isn't really a measurement- it could be 0.0035 (likely) or 0.0025. Without a starting gap, you cannot change the shim(s) out for a desired gap.

Besides that, if the lash (gap) is too small, you do not want bigger shims, you want to use smaller shims to increase the gap.

Yep, if you pull the cams, it is a good idea to record each shim size as found in the engine. It will establish a base map for this time or even future lash checks if you do not change some shims this time. Next time, if you know what size shims are in each position, you can go about getting new shims as soon as you measure the lash and before you actually pull the cams.

One other thought: a forum member named Man Of Blues (Rich) also came up with what I think is a good idea- you can measure each bucket with a pair of micrometers and note the size of each. They are very close to each other in size but not identical- it will give you one more variable to move buckets around as well as shims and perhaps save having to buy some shims. The same thing applies here too- write down the sizes and the locations and you will have a bucket map to use in the future as well.

Brian

Brian, I thought I woul have to get them to optimum levels (aside from the one which is below .004. Do I not need to get shims in the range of .001-.002 bigger than what is in there now?  I had planned on pulling each one so I could at least have an accurate inventory of what shim sizes I have for each valve.

[roadie]

I guess I was confused because you said what I had was ok. So far all I have measured is the gap. I was under the impression I need to get each intake and exhaust valve to .006 and .009. Is that correct?

[B.D.F.]

Well, what you have is OK but not optimal- you really should measure that smallest clearance. Find out which feeler gauge (or set) goes in the gap to establish a low limit- you list it as less than 0.004", which is not a measurement.

The gaps are different for the intakes and exhausts. They are as follows:

Intake: 0.0047" to 0.0067"
Exhaust 0.0075 to 0.0094"

I round these off to 0.0045" to 0.0065" and 0.0075" to 0.0095" because they are much easier to deal with in 1/2 thousandth of an inch increments. The manual suggests trying to set the gap toward the center of the tolerance which is a reasonable way to do it IMO. Some people set them toward the loose end; in the end, I do not think it makes much difference because there is only two- thousandths of tolerance anyway so the difference between the middle and one end of tolerance is only one thousandth.

Another suggestion I would make would be to do the entire job in one measuring system, either English or Metric. As you are measuring the gap in inches, I would suggest using a chart representing all the shims in inches also. Put another way, do not convert back and forth while trying to figure out which shims go where because you will be much more likely to make a mistake IMO.

The suggestion I gave regarding measuring and swapping the buckets is purely optional and not necessary. It is not mentioned or suggested by the manual.

Brian

I guess I was confused because you said what I had was ok. So far all I have measured is the gap. I was under the impression I need to get each intake and exhaust valve to .006 and .009. Is that correct?

[roadie]

I am not sure I am follow you here Will but first of all, you need to know the gap that is there. Less than XXX isn't really a measurement- it could be 0.0035 (likely) or 0.0025. Without a starting gap, you cannot change the shim(s) out for a desired gap.

Besides that, if the lash (gap) is too small, you do not want bigger shims, you want to use smaller shims to increase the gap.

Yep, if you pull the cams, it is a good idea to record each shim size as found in the engine. It will establish a base map for this time or even future lash checks if you do not change some shims this time. Next time, if you know what size shims are in each position, you can go about getting new shims as soon as you measure the lash and before you actually pull the cams.

One other thought: a forum member named Man Of Blues (Rich) also came up with what I think is a good idea- you can measure each bucket with a pair of micrometers and note the size of each. They are very close to each other in size but not identical- it will give you one more variable to move buckets around as well as shims and perhaps save having to buy some shims. The same thing applies here too- write down the sizes and the locations and you will have a bucket map to use in the future as well.

Brian

2nd read:  fully understand all about the less than value. Was actually one of my next questions but you answered before I asked . I'll get some more feeler gauges and yes correct, will need smaller shims. I'm anxious to get to measuring. I actually did pull the one shim I could not measure. Anyway, what sucks and now I understand, I no longer can measure the gap without putting the cam back in now, right?  Shoot.

[roadie]

Haha we posted at same time and had a meeting of the minds. How about how to measure now that I have it all apart. Can I just lay the cam back in and measure? Or do I have to put the covers back on to measure?

[B.D.F.]

Yes, in a perfect world you would put the cam back in and measure but here is what I would do: assume the gap is 0.0035" and adjust the shim size to get the clearance you want. That way you have an excellent shot of getting the lash back into tolerance even if the value is not exactly in the middle. It is unlikely that the lash is actually less than 0.003" anyway so 0.0035" is a very reasonable assumption. Of course when you do reassemble the cams you will measure the final clearance anyway so in the very unlikely situation that that valve's lash is out of tolerance you can correct it anyway.

One other though- I just noticed you put 'optimal' clearances on your lash chart of 0.005 and 0.009; I believe better numbers to use would be 0.0055 and 0.0085. A small difference but more accurate and when the inevitable tolerances and small differences gang up, you will be more likely to get closer to the middle. Again, it is just a math thing but I believe carrying all the numbers through in the half- thousandth slots (shims included here) will yield a more accurate finish.

Brian

2nd read:  fully understand all about the less than value. Was actually one of my next questions but you answered before I asked . I'll get some more feeler gauges and yes correct, will need smaller shims. I'm anxious to get to measuring. I actually did pull the one shim I could not measure. Anyway, what sucks and now I understand, I no longer can measure the gap without putting the cam back in now, right?  Shoot.

[B.D.F.]

Nope, you have to put the cam bearing caps back on, torque them to the correct tightness, re-time the engine and put the engine in the correct places to measure the lash. If you put the cam in the head 'loose', it will sit up on some of the cam lobes and yield extremely incorrect lash values (some being zero with others being something like 0.125"- WAY off).

As I said, you might want to assume that sub- 0.004" lash is 0.0035" and work through the entire job. Check the lash at the end just to be sure they are all correct before buttoning the engine up.

Brian

Haha we posted at same time and had a meeting of the minds. How about how to measure now that I have it all apart. Can I just lay the cam back in and measure? Or do I have to put the covers back on to measure?

[roadie]

Thanks Brian. I'll work through the measurements using these assumptions an build a new map with the values. I like the idea of measuring the buckets also and will do so. This is fun.

[roadie]

I pulled the shims from cylinder four and did some measures using my electronic caliper.  Is this ok, or do I absolutely need to use a micrometer?  I have one and will measure again if need be.  I checked accuracy of micrometer against new shims in my shim kit and it was off by .01mm.

below is my draft map for cylinder 4...  Should I invoke some rounding?  I've also included the stamped original shim stamp size for comparison.  If you think this is good, I'll move forward with the rest.  I do still plan on measuring the buckets, and adding to the map.

Pic deleted.