Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Kwikasfuki on March 02, 2014, 09:28:10 AM
-
Disclaimer: This is to show how I do an oil change. Please consult a professional for your oil changes. Do not attempt on your own as hot oil will burn and scald. You may also invalidate your warranty.
Firstly, here's the the toolset required. What's missing from the photo is the magnetic telescope rod that allows for easy retrieval of nuts and bolts
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/a.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/a.jpg.html)
Also need an old towel as an oil rag
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Any excuse to take the bike out and get it up to temperature. Oil is best removed when hot
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/c.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Get it on the centre stand
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/d.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
The sump drain plug has moved on the newer models
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/e.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Had to take care when removing the drain plug. The oil will squirt out. Did I mention its HOT?
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/f.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Somewhere in that blackness is the plug. That oil is HOT. So I'll use my magnetic pickup tool to retrieve it
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/g.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Here's a better view of the oil filter. Most of the time this is on tight. It should never be on that tight as it only should ever be torqued to 13 ft lbs. However, torquing it is hard, so most dealers over tighten. However, this can ruin the threads
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/h.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
I had to move the oi drain pan out of the way, so temporarily put the drain plug back in. Then applied the oil filter removal tool
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/i.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Close up here. It really grips the oil filter
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/j.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Now to appy some oil to the new filter before assembly
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/k.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/l.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Reattach the new filter and hand tightened. Then grabbed the removal tool and tightened a touch more to make it nice and snug.
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/m.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Replaced the old crush washer with new. Didn't have to do this as old one was fine, but the cost of a new one is a few pennies
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/n.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Cleaned the silver area and applied a bit of oil. This is where the crush washer will mate
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/o.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
The sump plug needs to be torqued at 22ft lbs
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/p.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/q.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
So, oil has been drained, filter replaced, sump plug back on with new washer and all correcly tightened
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/r.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
And here is the oil I'm using. Yes, I know, I've gone for fully synthetic. I prefer using it once my bike has over 20k miles. The large container has 4L and the smaller 1L making 5L in total. To get the 4.7L in the bike, all the 4L container will be used, and 0.7L of the smaller container
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/s.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
The containers show the volume of oil in them which is handy. On the smaller one, I shall stop when I get to 300ml
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/t.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Time to add the oil to the bike. Make sure you clean around the filler plug as there can be dirt and grime that may fall in
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/u.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/v.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
And what it looks like with the plug removed
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/w.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Make sure the funnel is cleaned as well. I use mine for allsorts
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/x.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
And start pouring in the oil.
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/y.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Replace the oil filler plug once all the oil from the 4L container plus 0.7L oil of the smaller container has been added
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/za.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
All the 4L container used. And only 0.7L of the smaller container used
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/z.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Oil sump is nice and full. This should settle down once I go for a ride
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/zb.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
But before I do, check, check and check again!
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/zc.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
And after the ride that is pretty much perfect
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/zd.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Finally, get rid of the oil in a responsible manner
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/ze.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
And that's how I do my oil changes. Doesn't take long
-
Quite comprehensive. Thanks for the writeup. What is the filter wrench you are using?
-
Quite comprehensive. Thanks for the writeup. What is the filter wrench you are using?
That would be this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Britool-E117117B-Belt-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0051HFZ9I (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Britool-E117117B-Belt-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0051HFZ9I)
-
Most Excellent! :thumbs: :finger_fing11:
-
Nice write-up!
One of the most important tools seems to be missing from your operation though... :o
Where's the beer?
If you had included this very important tool you would have found that the draining of the hot oil isn't nearly as hazardous as it might have been without the beer. Once you get the bike back home after the warm up one must have a beer while the bike cools a bit. In my experience drinking one beer after getting the bike up on the center stand is the perfect amount of cool down time.
:chugbeer:
And if you drank your beer too fast and you still got burned, well hell, at least you had a beer.
-
Lol, I had the music on if that counts.
-
Nice, very detailed write- up.
And that filter wrench looks great. A new twist on the old strap wrench. I have never seen anything like that in 'the colonies'. Maybe they will show up after we get more familiar with 'righty- tighty, lefty- loosey'. :rotflmao:
Thanks for posting that.
Brian
-
I found the disclaimer to be quite comical.
-
Thanks for this! I was just preparing myself to do my first oil change myself (first two were done by the dealer, now it is my turn). We just need the same writeup for changing the rear diff fluid and I will be set :)
-
Hijack...Max the rear diff is no problem. Make sure you can get the filler cap loose before you pull the drain plug and don't rotate the wheel when you refill.
Hijack off...
-
I don't have a center stand, I guess I'm screwed.
-
I don't have a center stand, I guess I'm screwed.
I do have a center stand still, but with the bike lowered, I can't get it on it alone, so I am screwed too :)
(I think I can do the "drive front wheel onto a board" trick though)
-
I have the top of my drain pan covered with a mesh screen, so I just drop the drain plug on to that. Saves having to fish around in hot oil.
-
I also rock the bike (carefully) back and forth/and sideways on the center stand while draining. Gets about another 200 ml of old oil out of the sump.
-
Great description, Just forgot the case of beer when finished.
I have to ask about the oil you are using. It doesn't appear to be Motorcycle Oil. I looked at what is available and maybe you should be using:
Fuchs Silkolene Super 4 10W-40 MC-Syn. This is specific for Motorcycle use with the wet clutches etc.
You may be getting rough gear changes etc with that oil.
Just my 2 cents worth.
-
Great description, Just forgot the case of beer when finished.
I have to ask about the oil you are using. It doesn't appear to be Motorcycle Oil. I looked at what is available and maybe you should be using:
Fuchs Silkolene Super 4 10W-40 MC-Syn. This is specific for Motorcycle use with the wet clutches etc.
You may be getting rough gear changes etc with that oil.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Motorcycle specific oil is extremely overrated, I can assure you of that. There is a guy on the Stromtrooper forum with over 300K on his 1000 V-Strom......he uses Castrol 10W40 car oil and Fram oil filters exclusively. ;)
-
I always change my oil with the engine cold. All the old oil is already in the crankcase. In a hot engine, some oil remains suspended in upper parts of engine, and hence escapes being drained. Plus, I never burn my hands with hot oil. Been doing this way on cars, trucks, boats, ATVs, lawnmowers, motorcycles for over 45 years. I highly recommend it!
-
Great description, Just forgot the case of beer when finished.
I have to ask about the oil you are using. It doesn't appear to be Motorcycle Oil. I looked at what is available and maybe you should be using:
Fuchs Silkolene Super 4 10W-40 MC-Syn. This is specific for Motorcycle use with the wet clutches etc.
You may be getting rough gear changes etc with that oil.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Nope, definately motorbike oil
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fuchs-silkolene-10W-40-Synthetic-Motorbike/dp/B007AFH0E2 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fuchs-silkolene-10W-40-Synthetic-Motorbike/dp/B007AFH0E2)
-
I Do mine cold also, doesn't really make a difference....
I also loosen the filler plug before pulling the drain plug...
and use this to catch the oil.... built in strainer top....
(http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N3321/large/9015450_bli_11837_pri_larg.jpg)
-
I always change my oil with the engine cold. All the old oil is already in the crankcase. In a hot engine, some oil remains suspended in upper parts of engine, and hence escapes being drained. Plus, I never burn my hands with hot oil. Been doing this way on cars, trucks, boats, ATVs, lawnmowers, motorcycles for over 45 years. I highly recommend it!
And I do a logical inbetween. Run the engine for 5 min. Hot enough to flow, not hot enough to be uncomfortable.
-
Some like it hot, some like it cold, some like it in the pot 9 days old..
I'll take the pot, you can keep the porridge.
-
My appologies. I am not familiar with this oil and didn't see it on the label.
Your link shows me it is motorcycle oil.
Nope, definately motorbike oil
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fuchs-silkolene-10W-40-Synthetic-Motorbike/dp/B007AFH0E2 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fuchs-silkolene-10W-40-Synthetic-Motorbike/dp/B007AFH0E2)
-
Some non-motorcycle oils have friction modifiers which can cause a multiplate wet clutch to slip. If you aren't having problems then you are probably okay.
To this guy,
I do have a center stand still, but with the bike lowered, I can't get it on it alone, so I am screwed too
make sure the centerstand is touching on both of it's feet before lifting the bike. It makes a world of difference. I can almost do it barefoot this way while it's nearly impossible if I don't get it straight up and down first.
-
Some non-motorcycle oils have friction modifiers which can cause a multiplate wet clutch to slip. If you aren't having problems then you are probably okay.
To this guy,
make sure the centerstand is touching on both of it's feet before lifting the bike. It makes a world of difference. I can almost do it barefoot this way while it's nearly impossible if I don't get it straight up and down first.
40 weight and 50 weight do not, that defeats the whole energy conserving philosophy. ;)
-
a simple additional tip when changing your oil:
Drain the oil and remove the filter on the center stand. Replace the filter and just starting the drain plug back in a few turns, now switch the bike from the center stand to the side stand. Then remove the drain plug and you will always get additional oil to drain out of the pan. Replace the drain plug and torque. Put the bike back on the center stand to refill.
-
Don't forget to have her wear gloves!
Beautiful Woman Changes Oil (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeQFiXGwz28#)
-
Don't forget to have her wear gloves!
Beautiful Woman Changes Oil (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeQFiXGwz28#)
:thumbs: :thumbs: :P
-
I do have a center stand still, but with the bike lowered, I can't get it on it alone, so I am screwed too :)
(I think I can do the "drive front wheel onto a board" trick though)
You're not screwed, but you're misinformed about where to elevate the bike to be able to get it up on the center stand. Run the rear wheel up on a scrap of 2x4, 2x6 or 2x8, step on the center stand's extension and pull it up. If it still won't comply, have someone pull or push the the bike to the rear as you put your full weight on the center stand's extension while pulling the bike up with your left hand on the handlebar and your right doing all the lifting while holding the left rail. I've been using this method for years as I'm too old (meaning not nearly as strong as I was in my youth) to do it by myself. I can easily get it on the center stand without elevating the rear tire if someone either pulls or pushes the bike to the rear as I lift it. With the aid of the 2" block of wood under the rear tire it's easily done by one person. Just be careful, as you sure as hell don't want to drop it.
-
I have a three-foot section of 2x12, but I always put it under the centerstand on my LT, you end up with an extra 2" of space to work in (which on the BMW you need, as you have to take the bottom cover off of the damn oil sump/pan to get to the submerged filter).
Of course, it would be even easier with a newer LT and the electro-hydraulic center stand, just park over the wood and press a button.
-
(http://i62.tinypic.com/ogysl3.jpg)
-
I don't have a center stand, I guess I'm screwed.
Put a thickness of 2.5 cm to the side stand and 1st gear selector. ;D
-
Here's a better view of the oil filter. Most of the time this is on tight. It should never be on that tight as it only should ever be torqued to 13 ft lbs. However, torquing it is hard, so most dealers over tighten. However, this can ruin the threads
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/h.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
The sump plug needs to be torqued at 22 ft lbs
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/p.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/gnusblat/media/1400%20GTR/Oil%20change/b.jpg.html)
Great write up. Just for those metric fellows, a little help:
13 ft lbs. = 18 Nm (for the oil filter)
22 ft lbs. = 30 Nm (for the sump plug)
-
changed the oil on the c14 today at the 10k mark. this is the third change, one at 500, one at 5k and this one. its been awhile since I changed it thanks to our crappy snowy cold wet winter and lack of opportunities to ride. anyway, got it done. rotella T6 per usual and the valvoline gear lube for the rear diff. what struck me was just how easy it is to change on this bike. pull into garage raise bike on centerstand and the drain is right there, just kneel down and remove the plug. no crawling on floor or raising on the lift needed like on the c-10 then reach thru the front of the fairing and spin off the filter by hand, easy.
it took more time to get the supplies and tools together than to actually change it.
this a far cry easier than the c10 with the hidden 2nd drainbolt and the guaranteed oil soaked hands removing the filter or the 1250FA where both lower fairings had to be removed to get to the oil filter behind the headers (reach in from the right side and remove the filter then push it out past the hoses on the left, it wouldnt come out the right side and your hand couldnt reach past the hoses on the left, it sucked)
im sure ill be screaming about too much crap in the way when I do the valve check at 25k but just for oil changes it couldnt be simpler. now Ive got to swap tires, I may try it myself this time or at least pull the wheels and let my buddy mount them at his shop, last time I had to get a set at riders hill during the RWTW last fall. Ive got too many sets of tires stacked in the garage to be paying $450 per set installed out on the road.
-
changed the oil on the c14 today at the 10k mark. what struck me was just how easy it is to change on this bike. pull into garage raise bike on centerstand and the drain is right there, just kneel down and remove the plug. no crawling on floor or raising on the lift needed like on the c-10 then reach thru the front of the fairing and spin off the filter by hand, easy. it took more time to get the supplies and tools together than to actually change it. this a far cry easier than the c10
My previous bike was a ZRX and it used a non-cartridge type oil filter which was much messier. I have only changed the oil on the C14 once, myself (so far) and it wasn't too bad except that the dealer tightened the oil filter so much it was a HUGE effort getting it off. I borrowed two tools and had to buy another to get it off, and it was completely destroyed by then. Apparently they are easy to over-tighten, so be wary of that. Thankfully I used a K&N filter so the next time it should be easy because they have a hex nut on the front/top of the filter.
I won't admit that I screwed up and overfilled the oil and had to empty some and ended up dropping the drain plug in the oil bucket and lost a whole quart of extensive stuff why trying to find it with one hand while plugging the hole with the other. Looking back on it, it was kinda comical...
-
I won't admit that I screwed up and overfilled the oil and had to empty some and ended up dropping the drain plug in the oil bucket and lost a whole quart of extensive stuff why trying to find it with one hand while plugging the hole with the other. Looking back on it, it was kinda comical...
Goes with the territory.. :)
-
Goes with the territory.. :)
I should have mentioned my tips learned:
1) Always oil the filter gasket
2) Never overtighten the filter
3) When near the end of filling, fill SLOWLY and pause 10 seconds and check the sight glass, it keeps right on rising
4) Do things things better than me
-
I won't admit that I screwed up and overfilled the oil and had to empty some and ended up dropping the drain plug in the oil bucket and lost a whole quart of extensive stuff why trying to find it with one hand while plugging the hole with the other. Looking back on it, it was kinda comical...
I should have mentioned my tips learned:
1) Always oil the filter gasket
2) Never overtighten the filter
3) When near the end of filling, fill SLOWLY and pause 10 seconds and check the sight glass, it keeps right on rising
4) Do things things better than me
I never check the sight glass when filling. I just dump 4.5 quarts in and it's good every time, right at the middle of the glass.
-
I never check the sight glass when filling. I just dump 4.5 quarts in and it's good every time, right at the middle of the glass.
I don't your mad powers/skills :)
-
Less brane work, more happiness.
-
Buy a 5 quart container of your favorite oil, attach your fob to aforementioned container, and pour. KIPASS will do the rest.
I don't your mad powers/skills :)
-
Buy a 5 quart container of your favorite oil, attach your fob to aforementioned container, and pour. KIPASS will do the rest.
Max might want to place his fob in a sealed plastic baggie, safety first. ;)
-
I prefill the oil filter before putting it on, rotating it so all the filter media gets saturated.
-
if you spend more than 12.5 minutes, you did something wrong. 8.2 of that is letting
the old oil out taking a break, 1.5 minutes gathering tools (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/lol8.gif)
-
You missed the beer part..
-
You missed the beer part..
you're right, my bad. I need to spend more time on the couch! :D
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/munchstretchcouch2.gif)
-
you're right, my bad. I need to spend more time on the couch! :D
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/munchstretchcouch2.gif)
I love this couch gif!
-
I wonder if those overtightened oil filters have been oiled on the thread before being mounted. The lubricated threads let the filter seat, and when the oil eventually dries or gets squeezed out of the thread after a few thousand miles, the thing cannot be unscrewed.
Any bolted union, when the threads are lubricated, create a clamping force that is 3 to 5 times higher than the design specification. Usually, the fastened union puts the bolt right under the yield point of the material and some safety factor that accounts for torque spec deviation form tool calibration and operator, and friction scatter on the thread and under the head of the bolt.
Kawasaki doesn't account for lubrication on the thread on its torque recommendation for the oil filter change procedure. In fact, on page 94 of the service manual (at least the copy I have) specifically says to oil the gasket, not the thread.
-
The book also says to torque the filter to 13 ft/lbs.... which is insane...
When I was Tech Editor, I tested that torque once, and ren 4k miles, I wrecked 5 different filter wrenches trying to remove the filter, and ended up shooting a screw thru a cup wrench into the filter, so I could get enough torque to remove it....
At that torque, the rubber is totally flat, and the metal can rim is tightened against the boss...
hand tighten, then another 1/2 to 3/4 turn with a wrench is all it needs... trust me on this.....(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u672/MAN_OF_BLUES/old%201/COG%20TECHNICAL%20PHOTOS/2260193070015463693womuMW_ph.jpg) (http://s1327.photobucket.com/user/MAN_OF_BLUES/media/old%201/COG%20TECHNICAL%20PHOTOS/2260193070015463693womuMW_ph.jpg.html)
-
Hand tight is fine..
-
Hand tight is fine..
Neeeee...
What is the weight of an unlaydened sparrow oh Night of Neeee?
Twist it with a wrench....
We are now the Nights that say... "ickky ickkeyyyyy ick ick" 8)
-
And now for something completely different.........Is that a Penguin on your telly?
-
:rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :popcorn:
And now for something completely different..... a man with three buttocks....
-
"Get on with it, this is getting too silly."
-
I do love Monty Python. Did many doobies back in the early70's watching them, on this side of the pond, on PBS stations.
Back to the O/F change. Did untold O/F changes back then too, for my job as an auto tech. Never tightened any filter beyond HAND TIGHT, if I expected to remove it at their next change. The trick is... only HAND TIGHT!
-
Hand tight works well as long as your hands or the filter don't have oil on them, which in my case, never happens. ;D
-
ended up shooting a screw thru a cup wrench into the filter,
I like that idea. Sure beats knocking a screw driver thru the filter.
-
The book also says to torque the filter to 13 ft/lbs.... which is insane...
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u672/MAN_OF_BLUES/old%201/COG%20TECHNICAL%20PHOTOS/2260193070015463693womuMW_ph.jpg) (http://s1327.photobucket.com/user/MAN_OF_BLUES/media/old%201/COG%20TECHNICAL%20PHOTOS/2260193070015463693womuMW_ph.jpg.html)
MOB, I love all the red arrows. Where does one find them to use with images? ;D
-
MOB, I love all the red arrows. Where does one find them to use with images? ;D
I believe that Microsoft Paint will give you those arrows
-
I believe that Microsoft Paint will give you those arrows
As will LibreOffice, OpenOffice, Gimp, and Inkscape... all of which are free, open source, and multiplatform.
-
MOB, I love all the red arrows. Where does one find them to use with images? ;D
Those were edited in Irfanview..
Free software, and extremely robust.. I bagan using it years ago, as I always had to reduce file sizes for pictures I linked when playing Tag-o-Rama on ADV.
It is prolly the best freeware I ever downloaded for photo stuff, and has a bunch of cool add ins and editing features.
-
I like that idea. Sure beats knocking a screw driver thru the filter.
We have seen that attempted many years back on this bike, and the results were very poor... the filter tore completely apart, and then required a lot of cuss words to get it off the bike... my best offerering for filter removal is that simple screw and cup answer... it really works... it was only done one time because I had to test the TS manual's torque.... and regretted it, reporting it at the time...
-
Thanks to all for that info, not that I understood a damn thing that was said. I thought that you just drew arrows on your screen, and they stayed there. Well, not really, but again, thanks. tomp
-
Thanks to all for that info, not that I understood a damn thing that was said. I thought that you just drew arrows on your screen, and they stayed there. Well, not really, but again, thanks. tomp
The photos were edited to add the arrows, I could have added text baloons also, with Irfanview. Didn't tho.
http://www.irfanview.com (http://www.irfanview.com)
-
The photos were edited to add the arrows, I could have added text baloons also, with Irfanview. Didn't tho.
http://www.irfanview.com (http://www.irfanview.com)
Thanks, downloaded it and will play with it later. Have used Fast Stone Image Viewer for years, but another source can't be bad to have too. Thanks, tp
-
I always use a plier-type (teeth) wrench from Griot's Garage, and has never failed me so far. When it's tight like with the Connie, progress might be slow until loose enough to remove by hand, but doesn't take more than a minute. And yes, the first time it's going to be a b*tch. After that, if you just hand-tighten them (which is what I have always done for decades with zero issues), it's much easier to break them loose.
-
Kicked over my beer last night while changing the oil. Not happy.
-
Kicked over my beer last night while changing the oil. Not happy.
Was it real beer or something like Coors lite? ;)
-
Oh, I would say it was real beer. :'(
-
Oh, I would say it was real beer. :'(
In that case, a moment of silence is in order...
-
No silence when it happened. My grandson got an education in swearing.
-
No silence when it happened. My grandson got an education in swearing.
Another? ;)
-
Reinforcement.
-
Kicked over my beer last night while changing the oil.
Alcolhol abuse. :battle:
That is always one of the struggles with working and drinking. Where does one put the beer so it's within reach, but not liable to be kicked over. I sense the need for an invention.
-
Kicked over my beer last night while changing the oil. Not happy.
I hate it when that happens.
-
Alcolhol abuse. :battle:
That is always one of the struggles with working and drinking. Where does one put the beer so it's within reach, but not liable to be kicked over. I sense the need for an invention.
Beer holder on the bars?