Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Steve Bell on June 09, 2011, 09:36:20 PM
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I know there was alot of warped rotor information and posts on the Pre Crash Forum but I would like some up to date facts posted here.
Something is wrong with the braking system and some day we will get to the bottom of it!
Galfer claims it is a brake Caliper dragging issue that is warping rotors and Kawasaki just seems content to replace everyones rotors under warranty. If Galfer thinks it is a caliper issue why is this just coming up now after almost 4 years these bikes have been on the road? I am interested in the ABS VS Non ABS results on the poll, do we have a ABS issue that the pistons are not retracting in the bore of the calipers properly and causing the rotors to warp?
How many of you remember Factory Kawasaki riding a Concours 14 for 100,000 KMS or miles ( not sure) back in 2007 in Germany I think it was to see the reliability of these bikes and they listed all the maintanence they had to do and they changed brake rotors 3 times in the 100,000!!
Please list how many miles were on the bike when they warped, and what year you ride.
Thanks for voting in the poll.
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2010 ABS, 3500 mi.
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2008 non-ABS and my rotors were replaced under warranty at 29,000 miles. The second set is performing flawlessly with EBC pads.
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Very difficult for me to vote on this....in fact I didn't because I could check multiple boxes.
My bike is a 2008 ABS and I've 'warped' at least three rotors.
The first time was me taking the front wheel in for the first tire change. Put it in the back of the truck and bent the carrier. Warped to the point of feeling it in the lever and it wore out the pads unevenly. Strangely enough there was no shuddering that I can recall. Ordered a new one from Kawi and all was well until....
Did a very hard stop on I80 in WY and actuated the ABS...from then on I had a severe case of the shudders and then...
Decided to go with EBC and have done with the Kawi chocolate rotors... New pads and new front rotors, shuddering from Day 1. Was told it took a bit for them to break in. They never broke in.... In their defence, I most likely did this to myself when I put the new pads in as I didn't remove some of the brake fluid. The pads weren't retracting due to the higher pressure and I think that they left deposits on the rotors and heat treated the pads so they weren't engaging in the proper manner. Rotors got very hot.
Decided to try to scrub the rotors with a rotor hone. This helped quite a bit but the shuddering continued. Then decided to replace the pads. Shuddering is now minimal. I'm waiting until after my trip to Dayton to decide what to do after that if anything.
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09 abs. First noticed the TIR going up at about 12,000 miles. Now my TIR on the left rotor sits at .022. Going in on Saturday to have the mech put a dial indicator on to confirm, hopefully I won't get any grief about a warantee claim going. If so, I guess I'll be riding on warped rotors.
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Very difficult for me to vote on this....in fact I didn't because I could check multiple boxes.
My bike is a 2008 ABS and I've 'warped' at least three rotors.
<snip>
Me too. I only went through one set of front rotors in my time with the bike! But I also had a ABS. And No they are not perfect! So I voted in the one bad set choice! :D
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Very difficult for me to vote on this....in fact I didn't because I could check multiple boxes.
I set up the poll to be able to check up to 3 boxes.
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2009 ABS. 900 mi. Picked up the bike with just under 900 mi Nov 09 and noticed the pulsing almost immediately. Lived with it for 22,000 mi until replacing with Galfers a month ago. Now it's smooth as glass and better feedback. I think the spirited pace capabilities and weight of the C14 are just too much for the stock rotors. Just my $.02
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I have a "new to me" 08 non abs with 8000 miles, I noticed it after the first day of riding it. Seems to get worse when the rotors warm up.
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I voted before I realized you could check multiple boxes, but it still doesn't cover my case.
I had only one front rotor replaced, not a set. Mine is 2010 ABS, and the rotor was diagnosed around 7K miles, and replaced just under 9K miles (took them awhile to get it).
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Anyone else want to add their warped rotor experience? We had alot of guys on the Pre Crash forum warping rotors and now not so many, I guess thats because it was mainly the 08' and 09' bikes.
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Non ABS '08, 48,000+ miles, 5 or 6 trips to the track, mixed 2 up weekend rides, daily commute, 10 miles of which is stop in go. Once I changed out the stock pads to CLs the pulsing left, once they wore out I went with Galfers, still no pulsing, but, it is about time for new rotors, they be about wore out. Aint sure if I want Galfers or EBCs.
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Mine were replaced at 8000 miles. According to my dealer it is the carriers that were the problem and were fixed in 2011.
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09 ABS, 2k miles, no issues yet...
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09 ABS, 2k miles, no issues yet...
Only 2K miles?!?
More riding, less posting ;)
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Only 2K miles?!?
More riding, less posting ;)
;D ;D ;D
Multiple bikes in the stable... 8)
Plus I live in Oregon (I think you do too right C1?) where it rains almost every freakin day from October through May (http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/mad.gif) and I just bought my Connie last fall. Hopefully I can put some miles on her this summer... (http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/wait.gif)
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09, NonABS, 10.5k miles, no problems thus far. I do, however, live in the flat part of east Texas so I haven't had to do a lot of hard breaking. Riding to TN for a week to enjoy the twisties this saturday so this is subject to change. :D
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I have an 08 with 54,000 miles. Now on my third set of front pads. Zero problems with the rotors so far other than the time I put a pad in backward. Got a lot of shuttering. But when I turned the pad around all was good. Even after that blunder, my rotors are not warped. They don't make noise either.
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Mine has had 5 OEM sets, none of which were warped but caused shuddering, which, apparently is caused by the build-up of material on the faces of the rotors according to informal feedback from Kaw. I fitted EBC rotors and pads recently and the shudder is just starting to show up again after a 12,000km tour over the last 4 weeks, altho it has a different feel to the OEM brakes that shuddered. Again, I doubt they are warped, being the latest and greatest technology from EBC. 66,000km total. I'll be removing them and hitting em with an orbital sander next service as a trial, may even do the OEM ones I removed and see what gives.
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;D ;D ;D
Multiple bikes in the stable... 8)
Plus I live in Oregon (I think you do too right C1?) where it rains almost every freakin day from October through May (http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/mad.gif) and I just bought my Connie last fall. Hopefully I can put some miles on her this summer... (http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/wait.gif)
Yep, I live just across town from you. I'm still waiting for the dry weather too, which is supposed to start this afternoon. Of course, it wasn't supposed to rain all day yesterday though, so what do they know.
I'm planning a ride up to Warrenton (via Scappoose/Vernonia Hwy, 47, and 210 through Mist & Jewell), one of the first dry weekends we get, just so I can say I made it to that corner of the state. Plus, those are all roads I haven't seen yet. If you want to put some miles on the C14, let me know. I'm sure we can find someplace along that route to stress those brake rotors for you. ;D
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Mine are OK now and I hope they stay that way.
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'08 with 13K+. We just did a tire change, and on the way home I noticed a complete loss of the front brake, with the back pulsing more than it had been. I had a couple thrilling moments on a downhill section to a stop sign when I discovered there was no front brake! I took the bike back, we bled the system, got the brake to work, and when I backed away to leave, the same thing happened - no brake. My bike tech determined that they must have bent the rotors when changing the tires. He has agreed to make it right. His solution going forward is to remove the rotors before changing the tires. The stock rotors are very soft metal. Has anyone else had this happen during tire changes?
Ride safe... 8)
Dave
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Well, I'm assuming I'm the nutjob that bent them the first time I had the front rubber changed but in retrospect it could have been the tire people. I had the same symptom with the brake lever. In order to do that they had to have warped/bent the carrier pretty severely I would think.
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2010 ABS, no issues yet. But she needs some more miles piled on.
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20K km and no problems. No riding YET this year due to injured leg! :( Where are you? I'm in Regina.
BB
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2010 ABS. cooked the fronts requiring replacement at 1800 miles. I have 8k on it now, replacements seem fine so far.
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20K km and no problems. No riding YET this year due to injured leg! :( Where are you? I'm in Regina.
BB
Saskatoon.
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08 W/18,000 miles. No ABS.
Rotors changed first time @ 8,800 miles. Started pulsing again 'bout a thousand miles ago...getting worse daily.
Time to see if the extended warranty was worth the money.
Myles
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08, ABS. Stock started warping at around 17k, went straight to Galfers(Waves and pads). Now at 30k+ with nothing but superior braking!
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It appears I'll be going on my 2nd set of rotors as well. It got really bad this weekend so I booked my appointment. My service guy told me that Kawi seems to have "fixed" the issue on the 2011 with designing a whole new rotor and pad system. He said that these can be installed on the older bikes as well. I kind of got the impression that it may be a pain in the ass to get Kawi to cover this second set. If they decide to balk at it, I'm going to aftermarket.
-Burbs
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08, ABS. Stock started warping at around 17k, went straight to Galfers(Waves and pads). Now at 30k+ with nothing but superior braking!
MI,
I just ordered my Galfers on Thursday from Cycle brakes in Ventura. They had a better deal for me
than Galfers in Oxnard.....go figure. :)
My right side rotor is causing all my problem. The disc is thin in three spots around the rotor. It varies
over .003" and the shudder from high speed shakes the bars. I'm not sure if I'll tell my dealer or not, I was
not going to replace crap rotors with new crap rotors. The fact that they are not full floating caused my
problem for sure. As you heat the rotor, they move about .040" but it goes away when cold. Convincing a
dealer of this would be more work than it's worth to me.
Till the end of June, if you order two front rotors they give you a free rear rotor. The ZX-14 ABS rear
they are sending may or may not fit. I'll either find a use for it or sell it to cut my losses.
I went with their HH Ceramic front pads and the HH normal rear pads. I'll report on how they feel when it
cools off a little.
UPDATE: The pads work great, good bite and no noise.
Mick
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I just ordered my Galfers on Thursday from Cycle brakes in Ventura.
Mick
I really hope you have better luck with Galfer rotors than I did! Mine have been shipped back to Galfer waiting on their decision if they will replace them or not.
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Steve,
Tell me more......bad braking or noise or ????
Mick
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Steve,
Tell me more......bad braking or noise or ????
Mick
Mick,
Read this thread I started about my Galfer rotors warped after only 3500 KMS (2000 Miles)
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1090.30 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1090.30)
Galfer is not sure if they want to do anything about it and they have not been the easiest company to deal with so far!
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Steve,
Thanks! I have a slight advantage.....we have a house about 12 miles from their shop in
Oxnard and I can camp on their doorstep if they fail to resolve a warranty issue. I have not
done the break-in on mine yet but I will tomorrow. I checked my runout before using them
and it is about .0015 on both sides right now.
My OEM right side had thin spots and that caused my bars to shake at anything above 40MPH
with moderate braking.
Mick
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which box should I tick if I have the original rotors and they are slowly starting to warp? :o
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Box #1 Martin. :)
Mick
(I'm going out now for a little break-in ride to breakfast) 12,300miles
UPDATE: Nicely broken-in and they are smooth! I love 'em. I measured the runout at 0.10mm Left and 0.14mm right.
They are full floaters (unlike the Nissan's) so the runout is a bit meaningless.
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3800 miles on my 2011 and no issues with the rotors.
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Mick,
Read this thread I started about my Galfer rotors warped after only 3500 KMS (2000 Miles)
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1090.30 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1090.30)
Galfer is not sure if they want to do anything about it and they have not been the easiest company to deal with so far!
Steve,
Did you buy the full floating Wave rotors? Have you checked the thickness of the
rotors? Mine are slightly thicker than the stock rotors but very even around the surface
of the disc. If there is any variance, more than about 0.003" in thickness, you will feel it.
It will act like a warped disc but won't push the pads back like a warped disc tends to do.
My bars would shake at anything above about 50MPH quick stops.
Mick
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Steve,
Did you buy the full floating Wave rotors? Have you checked the thickness of the
rotors? Mine are slightly thicker than the stock rotors but very even around the surface
of the disc. If there is any variance, more than about 0.003" in thickness, you will feel it.
It will act like a warped disc but won't push the pads back like a warped disc tends to do.
My bars would shake at anything above about 50MPH quick stops.
Mick
Mick, Yes I bought the full floating standard wave rotors but not the Superbike rotors, my thickness variance was less than .001" all the way around and I would hope so with only 2000 miles of use. What I am feeling has got to be the large run out I have on one side. I sent the rotors off to Galfer and have not heard anything yet. Wanna knock on their door and ask them to hurry up? :)
Steve.
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I'll be glad to, next time I'm out there. Just made a quick trip last Fri-Sun. :(
It almost has to be a bent carrier. I hope they do the right thing.
Mick
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Just spent $500+ to replace both front rotors and pads on both front and back. My '08 has 13K on it. The warp became more pronounced after last summer's trip to CO. We went after market with EBC. I have owned several bikes, but not faced brake issues like this before. Nice bike, expensive to own. :-\
Ride safe...
Dave
'08 C14
'09 KLR
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Just spent $500+ to replace both front rotors and pads on both front and back. My '08 has 13K on it. The warp became more pronounced after last summer's trip to CO. We went after market with EBC. I have owned several bikes, but not faced brake issues like this before. Nice bike, expensive to own. :-\
Ride safe...
Dave
'08 C14
'09 KLR
Is yours out of warranty? If you have a warranty in effect, you should use it. It becomes more expensive when you don't.
If / when I go back for another rotor, I'll press them to put the 2011 rotors on mine. When mine is 2 years and 11 months old, I'll spring for the 3 year extended.
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Is yours out of warranty? If you have a warranty in effect, you should use it. It becomes more expensive when you don't.
If / when I go back for another rotor, I'll press them to put the 2011 rotors on mine. When mine is 2 years and 11 months old, I'll spring for the 3 year extended.
My bike is still in warranty. I took the bike to the dealer with two problems, the brakes, and the TPM system failure. The solution for the TPM was to turn it off. They wanted to blame the thimble full of dynabeads for the failure, even though it is clearly a battery issue. Right. In terms of the warped rotors, they said "that's just how they are", and said they still seem to stop ok. Right. My C14 won't likely be back to the dealer unless there is something my independent bike tech cannot handle. Other than excessive noise from the EBC pads, I'm pretty happy with the new brakes, and don't miss the flashing TPM system failure messages on my info screen. :P
Ride safe ... 8)
Dave
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Dave,
I had about the same reaction from my dealer. Granted, I didn't take it there and leave it for them to play
with but I had measured the runout and the thickness with good tools and I'm confident of my results. He told me
there is "no info from Kawasaki whatsoever regarding front rotors". I'm not sure I will recommend this dealer to any
more friends.
Mick
Tucson
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Dave, it's definitely time for you to find a new dealer!
When I took mine in for a warped rotor, the first comment from the service manager was that it was probably not covered by warranty, that it was likely caused by abusing the brakes, to which I emphatically said B.S. They called Kawi, and it was covered, no questions asked.
As for the TPMS, I would also contact another dealer. I agree it's unlikely the Dyna Beads would make it stop working, but all the same, I would find some way to remove them before taking it in. The TPM Sensors are covered by the warranty if they fail due to a dead battery. If the dealer will not help you, call Kawasaki directly, or go to another dealer.
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Dave, it's definitely time for you to find a new dealer!
When I took mine in for a warped rotor, the first comment from the service manager was that it was probably not covered by warranty, that it was likely caused by abusing the brakes, to which I emphatically said B.S. They called Kawi, and it was covered, no questions asked.
As for the TPMS, I would also contact another dealer. I agree it's unlikely the Dyna Beads would make it stop working, but all the same, I would find some way to remove them before taking it in. The TPM Sensors are covered by the warranty if they fail due to a dead battery. If the dealer will not help you, call Kawasaki directly, or go to another dealer.
I live in an area with one (1) dealer. Alternatives are an hour away. Over the years, partially because of the mixed results from the dealer, I have developed a very good relationship with a private bike tech, who actually does a fair amount of contract work for dealers. The guy is honest, fairly careful, and does what you ask. I would not ask him to diagnose the electrical systems, but most everything else he is spot on. At some point it is less about the money and more about getting it done right the first time. If you are in central Ohio and need a good bike tech, I'll be glad to provide the contact info.
Meanwhile, I continue to have a slow burn about having to spend that amount of time and money on a bike with 13K. :P
Ride safe... 8)
Dave
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Decided to go with EBC and have done with the Kawi chocolate rotors... New pads and new front rotors, shuddering from Day 1. Was told it took a bit for them to break in. They never broke in.
2008 model 25000 km, I had the same problem, third set of rotors at 19000 km was EBC + HH pads, after breaking them in as per EBC instructions, the bike was shuddering strongly between 100 and 80 km/h. Now after a 4000 km tour through the alps with max admissible load on the bike and some heavy braking before het hairpins, the brakes operate as smoothly as when the bike was new.
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It takes them a long bit to brake in... Mine are just starting to act right after several thousand miles....
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So, after opening one of the EBC rotor boxes I took em home, when I was in the process of pulling the wheel I noticed a looseness, at first I thought it was the head bearings, nope. After I removed the wheel I put the axle back in the hub and bingo, bad bearings, I called up cycle gear and ordered a set of bearings and seals. Since I was going to remove the rotors for bearing removal I did so and put them to the side, not even considering to mark which was left or right. Bearings came in, installed and it's time to install the rotors and darn------I have a chrome and a gold colored hub, *&@*&%$@$#, I call Cycle Gear, they make a call, and wouldnt ya know it? The rotors are out of stock till late August)*&%@(*&&*#$%(&^#$#$@^%$#. I spoke with the manager, he will give me a new set of pads once the new rotors come in, cool. I get it all back together and first real ride yesterday. Brakes work great, better then great even. What I thought was brake noise turned out to be the bearings, I was getting a hollow noise with light brake pressure, almost like something was ginding, similar to the sound made when the pads are gone. I have no pulsing what so ever. On the way in this morning I stopped at the MSF range we have on post and did some hard core quick stops, hard enough to loft the rear wheel, so I feel it's safe to say I'm OK till the end of August.
So, why the long story? If your getting unusual noise from the front check out the wheel bearings, the transition from old to new is similar to new tires, just amazing.
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which box should I tick if I have the original rotors and they are slowly starting to warp? :o
Or you have a new bike with only 1200 miles and no warp? Won't that skew the results?
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Dave,
I had about the same reaction from my dealer. Granted, I didn't take it there and leave it for them to play
with but I had measured the runout and the thickness with good tools and I'm confident of my results. He told me
there is "no info from Kawasaki whatsoever regarding front rotors". I'm not sure I will recommend this dealer to any
more friends.
I think such dealers should be reported to Kawasaki as incompetent.
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bought mine use with 6K on it. Now have 14K. I know all the recall were done but i dont know about rotors.
How do i recognize stock rotor over some aftermarket or replacement????
I would feel some light pulsing under heavy braking but honestly, doesnt seem that bad.
Is that shudering happen at any speed???
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Or you have a new bike with only 1200 miles and no warp? Won't that skew the results?
Yes it would skew the results a little but as you can see from the results so far the 08' 09' Concours has a definite problem. I see you have a 2011 and I'm not sure we have heard of a new 2011 with warped rotors at all? Maybe someone can clarify that?
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FYI,.. after reading many posts regarding this rotor issue I ran my 09 to my local dealer who informed me that Kawi "IS AWARE" of this issue and WILL replace the rotors on a case by case basis. Mine were bad enough to be replaced under warranty or a soft recall. The dealer did recommend I go with EBC pads to prevent this issue from returning so they will be installed at the same time.
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FYI,.. after reading many posts regarding this rotor issue I ran my 09 to my local dealer who informed me that Kawi "IS AWARE" of this issue and WILL replace the rotors on a case by case basis. Mine were bad enough to be replaced under warranty or a soft recall. The dealer did recommend I go with EBC pads to prevent this issue from returning so they will be installed at the same time.
I sure wish they would tell ALL the dealers the same story. My dealer has NOT heard of ANY front rotor problems.
Mick
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Ya the dealer I bought from pulled the "Kawasaki has had no rotor issues at all" ::)
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I found another C-14 forum. It appears the entire English speaking world is warping rotors. Don't know about the others.
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They're warping on the ZX-14 as well. It's not just us.
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41,000 miles on my C14 and no warpage to report.
Never had an issue on my ZX14 either and wow it got tortured hot braking/trail braking into the turns.
But I'm hearing issues with each bike too, guess my day is coming, about the time my radiator gets a hole, my lugggage falls off, and drive shaft explodes i expect the rotors to go too. I can feel it all coming.......
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bikepeace.gif)
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Steve,
I promise we won't laugh when yours fail. :) Mine never warped, there are soft spots in the
rotor that are thinner than the rest of the disc. Makes for a horrible shudder at 50+ MPH 13K miles.
Mick
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Oh don't hold back brutha-man, I deserve to be laughed at when the day comes my rotors fail, luggage flies off, rad gets a hole, drive shaft fails.... I know my day is coming because at the end of the day this bike is a KAWASAKI (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/cheers.gif)
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the day comes my rotors fail, luggage flies off, rad gets a hole, drive shaft fails....
Don't forget your KiPass will lock up (and you won't have a rock) and your TPS batteries will also crap out.
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Don't forget your KiPass will lock up (and you won't have a rock) and your TPS batteries will also crap out.
'prolly right
after this many miles of hard service the bike deserves to break or at least something major go on.....even a HONDA deserves that at this stage ;D
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HMMMMM????
So, after opening one of the EBC rotor boxes I took em home, when I was in the process of pulling the wheel I noticed a looseness, at first I thought it was the head bearings, nope. After I removed the wheel I put the axle back in the hub and bingo, bad bearings, I called up cycle gear and ordered a set of bearings and seals. Since I was going to remove the rotors for bearing removal I did so and put them to the side, not even considering to mark which was left or right. Bearings came in, installed and it's time to install the rotors and darn------I have a chrome and a gold colored hub, *&@*&%$@$#, I call Cycle Gear, they make a call, and wouldnt ya know it? The rotors are out of stock till late August)*&%@(*&&*#$%(&^#$#$@^%$#. I spoke with the manager, he will give me a new set of pads once the new rotors come in, cool. I get it all back together and first real ride yesterday. Brakes work great, better then great even. What I thought was brake noise turned out to be the bearings, I was getting a hollow noise with light brake pressure, almost like something was ginding, similar to the sound made when the pads are gone. I have no pulsing what so ever. On the way in this morning I stopped at the MSF range we have on post and did some hard core quick stops, hard enough to loft the rear wheel, so I feel it's safe to say I'm OK till the end of August.
So, why the long story? If your getting unusual noise from the front check out the wheel bearings, the transition from old to new is similar to new tires, just amazing.
My bike makes some really loud noises under braking. I've only got 21K on it, so that hardly seems enough for the bearings to be shot. My rotors are VERY warped. I changed to EBC HH pads in Oregon two weeks ago. My front brakes were shuddering so bad I was afraid to use them. I had to pump my lever once to get brakes anyway.
I replaced the pads on the cycle parts dealer's lot. The shuddering got a 'little' better, but it's still there. I'm home now, and the pads have about 2500 miles on them and are finally worn in. The shudder is better, but it is still VERY there. I have the bike scheduled for a valve check, so when they are done playing with that, they can take a look at the rotors. The pisser is that I JUST put new pads on, and they aren't likely to cover the pads IF they replace the rotors (I hope they do!)
This is a bit of contention with me...but I struggle with the fact that the rotors warp, and cause issue with the pads, BUT the pads aren't covered. I call B.S.!
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How long or how many miles is the warranty period on warped brake rotors?
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They may be like mine, not warped but hard spots and soft spots in the rotor. You can measure it with a micrometer. I have about 0.004" variation in 3 spots around the disc. The handlebars would shake under moderate braking.
Mick
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The Galfer rotors that I warped after only 2000 miles are being replaced by Galfer. They just called today and they are sending me a new set. :) Now I wonder how long these will last??
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Congrats Steve,
Do you have a way of measuring the runout before you use them? I documented mine before use
just so I know if they started out straight, they did. :)
Mick
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Congrats Steve,
Do you have a way of measuring the runout before you use them? I documented mine before use
just so I know if they started out straight, they did. :)
Mick
Yes I can check the runout as soon as I get them and I will post up my findings.
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The Galfer rotors that I warped after only 2000 miles are being replaced by Galfer. They just called today and they are sending me a new set. :) Now I wonder how long these will last??
Steve, did they offer any explanation is to why they warped?
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Steve, did they offer any explanation is to why they warped?
None at all. In the first conversation I had with Galfer they said it must be an issue with the Concours if the stock rotors are warping and aftermarket rotors as well. No one seems to have an exact answer to why some of these bikes eat rotors so quickly.
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None at all. In the first conversation I had with Galfer they said it must be an issue with the Concours if the stock rotors are warping and aftermarket rotors as well. No one seems to have an exact answer to why some of these bikes eat rotors so quickly.
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/confused1.gif)
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2009 C14 ABS with 28.3k miles. The bike had the right front caliper rebuilt under warrantee at 14k miles. This time it's the left caliper that's dragging, and rotor is warped.
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I think I'm the next victim of rotor problems. I started to get the pulsing on the way back from the Bun Cooler. It happened at about 18K miles. I noticed that it becomes more pronounced once the brakes get some heat in 'em... I guess a call to the dealer is in my (very) near future.