One thing to always keep in mind when cornering on the road is to enter at such a speed that you can stop or swerve if you need to. You never know when a deer, rock, gravel, or other obstacle will be around that blind corner, and if you are riding at your limits, you won't have any options other than having a bad day.
Yes, I know this is less fun, but if you want to push the limits, you are better off taking it to the track.
Also, always enter a corner at a lower speed than you think you are able to manage for the corner, especially if you've never ridden through that corner/on that particular road before. That way, you'll have a chance to recover if you find tar snakes, a sudden bump, etc..
While late apexing and such are good skills to learn, my strategy is to choose the line that gives me the most asphalt to work with should I have to change my line mid corner (due to animals, gravel, etc.). For me this usually means staying closer to the yellow median when cornering to the left, but not putting my head in the opposite lane of travel, so that I can swerve right if I need to, or god forbid into the oncoming lane if that's my best option. When cornering right, I tend to be closer to the shoulder, as it's easier to widen your line of travel than tighten it. Not too close though, gravel likes to hang out at the edge of the road.
And of course, always endeavor to enter a curve in a lower gear, so your revs are sufficiently high to apply deceleration torque if you need to slow down. I find that at least 4.5K RPM, preferably 5-8K RPM works best for the C10 - anything lower won't help you much, and you'll have to rely on the brakes alone.
With the C10's slipper clutch, you can downshift while in a corner, but may stand up the bike in the process if you aren't careful, and are much more likely to partially lock/skid your rear. It takes practice to downshift in a curve without freaking yourself out - of course the best option is to be in the lower gear BEFORE the curve/corner commences!
IF I've entered a corner/curve in too high of a gear on a downhill curve, I usually am braking slightly as I enter the downhill curves at that point to begin with. At that point, I am also leaning appropriately to counter the bikes tendency to stand up while braking, before I downshift. I brake slightly harder as I lose the engine torque while disengaging the clutch, downshift (revs are already climbing when I disengage), and engage the clutch smoothly while backing off on the brakes. At that point I often mentally chew myself out momentarily afterwords (while still paying attention to the road of course), for not being in the right gear in the first place...
Keep your following distance open a little bit when at speed. This way, if the rider in front of you goes down, you have time to make a decision as to where to go.
On one particular ride I was on last year, I was riding with a couple of Sports Bike guys I hang with, about 3-4 seconds behind them. At one point, I came around a left hand blind corner and saw them at a complete stop due to a herd of sheep in the road blocking the road completely. They were absolutely positive I'd plow into them with my heavier Connie, but I managed to come to a complete stop with about 4-5 feet to spare. If I had been letting it all hang out, things might have ended very differently...
