Handling question

[bowtie39]

The exact tool Kawa recommends for the race removal can be found by googling....posse steering stem race remover.  It's selling on amazon for 45.00 and saw one  marked as a HD/Buell tool on ebay for 35.00.   Tool has spreadable jaws that lock onto the race.  You can or I did use a couple of chisels side by side to drive from the top to keep jaws spread.   It takes a couple chisels to be thick enough to  wedge in the tool.  Will pop that race out slick as butta.

Roger

[Roadhound]

You don't have to take the upper fairing off but it sure is much easier with it out of the way. If you are using any tool other than the factory special tools, you will be doing this by trial and error some may work but you will not know until you try.

There is an article in the C-10 Wiki which explains one method of changing out the bearings and races. You might want to take a look at it.

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1320.0

[bbroj]

I'm sure I will find out when I have it apart, but which bearing is the bigger one, the top or the bottom? I picked up the HF pilot bearing puller, but it does not spread wide enough for the larger race. If the lower is the smaller race, it fits perfectly.

[redzgrider]

Pretty certain the larger bearing is the lower one -- part of why it's so dang difficult to get the lower out. At some point, there was an instruction set on how to make a removal tool from a washer with one side ground flat so that it can pass through the race, then turn to flat against the race. Haven't seen the post in a while but imagine it's still on the web somewhere.
As an alternative, Park tools makes a tool that looks perfect, though it may be too small for our races:
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Head-Cup-Remover/dp/B006WLKU6A
There's a guy on Youtube who makes his own version, and seems to have good luck with it:
Bearing race driver..wmv

[bbroj]

The link in Roadhounds post above mentions the washer method, I may end up there, but I'm pretty good with a Dremmel if it comes to that. I also picked up this, http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-general-purpose-tire-iron-93230.html as a last alternative drift/punch/general drive tool. I'll cut it in half if necessary to get a better surface to hit with a hammer. I thought the shape may help me get to the race. Too bad the lower race is the bigger one, the slide hammer tool looked pretty promising.

[bowtie39]

Takes longer for some to learn

[bbroj]

Takes longer for some to learn

No, but I am trying to do this within a certain time frame. I'm trying to get things locally that I KNOW I can have in time for when I plan to do the job. I'm looking into the correct tool and if I can have it in time for the planned job, I am fully aware of the value of having the right tool for the job. However, I also have the ability to improvise in the absence of those tools and am preparing for that as well.

[bbroj]

So far, so good. I have the bike mostly apart, both bearing races are out and I still need to remove the lower bearing. The lower race came out relatively easily with the tire iron I picked up at HF. I tried the washer method first, but was struggling to get the washer turned inside the head tube. I had the bar and decided to give it a shot. The shape is about perfect and the race was out with a few taps. I also have the HF bearing puller set, I hope not to use it so I can return it, as I have a 20 ton press and bearing pullers at my garage in NY and really don't need the puller set except for this job. Hopefully I can borrow a bearing splitter and be all set.

[bbroj]

The bike is on it's way back together. The stem is back in and all is going well. I'll try to post a few pics of what I used and how I used it. I used the HF bearing puller with some alterations to the "normal" method. The puller will not get under the bearing because the steering stops are in the way. I intentionally cut away the cage holding the rollers and removed the cage and rollers. Now, the bearing puller had room to grab the top ridge of race portion of the bearing and it worked perfectly. To install the new bearing, the upper portion of a Craftsman floor jack handle is the ideal dimension. I did use the free rental option from my local O'Riely Auto Parts store race insertion driver. So far, this job has not been beyond the ability of myself, or I would say any reasonably competant DIY'er with a decent selection of tools and the will and ability to improvise.

[bbroj]

Additional pics, race condition. Note for previous pics, I DID pack the bearing with grease before driving it in place!

[kathybrj]

Takes longer for some to learn

Wow...with help like that you should start your own board.... 


Good job Blaise. I know being away from home and your garage full of tools has got to make fixes tough but I know you easily have the ability to get things done. And it's good of you to document it so others can gain some insight.

[bbroj]

The bike is back together and has been on 2 test rides before it got too dark to continue. Simply making the final bearing load adjustment, going slowly and doing it right, including tank removal each time (I would be sure to scratch it) and retorqueing the lower clamp bolts each time. The adjustment is as the book describes it should be, but I'm using the 50mph-45mph decel wobble as my final test. Instead of doing this project Sunday like I planned, looks like I may be going for a ride tomorow instead 

[bbroj]

Project successfully completed It took several test rides and most of the morning to get it tuned to where I wanted it, but it has ZERO decel wobble and turns side to side with minimal resistance, but it's far from "falling" to each side. From my perception, it has to be a lot tighter than I would have expected, but again, the tool I was using to tighten the bearing had no more than a 4" handle. While it would always be nice to have the right tool for every job, this can certainly be accomplished by a good DIYer with a decent variety of "normal" tools and the ability to use them in other than normal ways. Thanks all for your input and insight.