Author Topic: Coolant leak  (Read 2891 times)

Offline DaveO430

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Coolant leak
« on: May 18, 2011, 08:02:43 PM »
Working on my 93 project I noticed coolant leaking from the water pipe where it goes into the head. Has anyone been sucessful removing it and replacing the o-rings without removing the carbs? I don't want to go through that again.

Offline T Cro ®

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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #1 on: May 18, 2011, 08:37:00 PM »
I've heard that while it can be done but it is extreamly diffacult; much harder than R & R of the carbs. Just be sure to use lots of o-ring lube or you will end up cutting or nicking the o-rings.
« Last Edit: May 19, 2011, 06:04:14 AM by T Cro ® »
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Offline DaveO430

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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2011, 08:47:08 PM »
I work on a lot of old goldwings and thought they were tough to remove the carbs but since doing that on this connie I have changed my mind. I could R&R several goldwing carbs in the time it took me to do these. I did find the trick of rolling the boots back since I did that so maybe I'll give it another go.

Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #3 on: May 18, 2011, 10:45:44 PM »
pull the carbs, trying to do it without is asking for much more work, you won't be able to see if you roll a oring outta position, and when you do, and fill the coolant back up you'll be repeating the process....it's very common.

46 YEARS OF KAW.....  47 years of DEVO..

Offline norcalbarney

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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2011, 02:54:08 PM »
I just finished up blowing out my cooling o-rings for a third time in as many weekends.  I'm getting good at the replacement procedure, unfortunately!  I get the o-rings in, warm the bike up to 3/4 hot, then PPSSSTTTT, steam show.  I've learned to do the test while the bike is parked, instead of driving it far away to test, YMMV.  :D

It does seem like the carbs must come out to get the coolant log out.  There's not enough clearance between carb syncing screws to get the coolant log past the frame.  Plus, visuals are very limited with the carbs in.  Like you the OP said, rolling back the boots on the airbox, then zip-tying them, is the big secret to removing carbs.  I got some reusable zip-ties to make it easier.

A neighbor wandered by while I was working on it, and told me I need to get silicon O-rings.  Apparently the rubber ones degrade very quickly if you get any oil/grease/gas on them...?  He said I need to wipe them "with glycerine or something". This thread also taught me about o-ring lube, which is likely the better stuff.  Thanks for that tip!

FYI, the first time this happened was after I purchased this bike used.  I meant to check the coolant, but never got around to it.  Recommended! Mine only had about 1 liter of coolant in it.  After blowing the o-rings on the road the first time, I drove her home about 50 miles at 3K rpm with the gauge on the far, far right of hot, and she made it home.  With the revs low, and wind in the radiator, and less stopping, she stayed alive.  I was surprised, I guess.  Once I got the coolant log off, I saw the o-rings were pinched at the bottom, as a result of installation with the carbs on.

Hope this helps.  I'm gonna try again next weekend.  Wish me luck.

Offline SteveJ.

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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #5 on: July 19, 2011, 07:54:30 PM »
FWIW, I use spray silicon lube on the o-rings, seems to work well.
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Offline Leo

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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2011, 08:30:18 AM »
Silicon spray works good for me also.   Having those bores really smooth before you try to push the rings in prevents nicks also.  Good Luck
Yep, still riding the old one

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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #7 on: July 24, 2011, 06:50:56 PM »
I just finished up blowing out my cooling o-rings for a third time in as many weekends.  I'm getting good at the replacement procedure, unfortunately!  I get the o-rings in, warm the bike up to 3/4 hot, then PPSSSTTTT, steam show.  I've learned to do the test while the bike is parked, instead of driving it far away to test, YMMV.  :D

It does seem like the carbs must come out to get the coolant log out.  There's not enough clearance between carb syncing screws to get the coolant log past the frame.  Plus, visuals are very limited with the carbs in.  Like you the OP said, rolling back the boots on the airbox, then zip-tying them, is the big secret to removing carbs.  I got some reusable zip-ties to make it easier.

A neighbor wandered by while I was working on it, and told me I need to get silicon O-rings.  Apparently the rubber ones degrade very quickly if you get any oil/grease/gas on them...?  He said I need to wipe them "with glycerine or something". This thread also taught me about o-ring lube, which is likely the better stuff.  Thanks for that tip!

FYI, the first time this happened was after I purchased this bike used.  I meant to check the coolant, but never got around to it.  Recommended! Mine only had about 1 liter of coolant in it.  After blowing the o-rings on the road the first time, I drove her home about 50 miles at 3K rpm with the gauge on the far, far right of hot, and she made it home.  With the revs low, and wind in the radiator, and less stopping, she stayed alive.  I was surprised, I guess.  Once I got the coolant log off, I saw the o-rings were pinched at the bottom, as a result of installation with the carbs on.

Hope this helps.  I'm gonna try again next weekend.  Wish me luck.

Barney,
did you read the Concourier article on the COGdot ORG site, fall 06 about "Coolant Gremlins"? If not, visit there, register, and read it...
I have to ask again, I tried my damndest to alleviate this syndrome when I wrote it, it was My job as the Tech Editor...., I also note to use fork oil to lube the o-rings, as it is rubber friendly, and still affords a seal swell that is acceptable while not overpowering... glycyrin is not an option, it will swell a seal and pop it out so fast.... well, never mind..... we used to put a TEASPOONFUL of glyceryn in each fork to swell seals, back in the 70's, before good stuff was developed..... get my jist?
use the specified o-rings, they will last the longest, silicone ones will not....the compund is not as resistive in contact with coolants.
you have to look closely when installing the log, and make sure none of the rings is rolling out of position, when you see one doing that, hold everything, and poke the o-ring with a small screwdriver, or wooden probe, to assist in it's positioning, and keep pushing.... this is not possible to see with the carbs, and the intake rubbers, in position..... now you know why I wrote the cautions about attempting this in a 'fast' way, without pulling them off.....
 we are here for you, best of luck, be patient, and buy more o-rings..... I bought 2x as many as I needed, (i had 2 Conni's at the time) and have no spares.... heeheheheh

46 YEARS OF KAW.....  47 years of DEVO..

Offline norcalbarney

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Re: Coolant leak
« Reply #8 on: August 01, 2011, 11:53:08 AM »
Good news, fellas.  I got my coolant o-rings fixed on the 5th try!  I was using the coolant log from my '91 in my '86, and while they looked identical, the '91 would leak every time.

I used the pink lube that they gave me at the motorcycle store service dept, just a little in a "crack bag".  They didn't know anything about silicon rings, and said rubber is fine.  They also said my worries about oil deteriorating the rubber were unfounded.

I just took my time, used a lot of lube, and Bob's your uncle.  Side benefit : I'm getting good at pulling the carbs.  Thanks for the advise everyone!  I would loose the ambition were it not for you successful dudes making me think I should be able to fix these things!