Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: blue72beetle on August 11, 2018, 05:28:24 PM
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I just picked up a 2010 C14. I'm un-doing the fender eliminator the P.O. did, and found these two wires that don't seem to belong anywhere. One is yellow/black, the other is black. It runs alongside the plate light.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Concours/i-r5HvPX7/0/ecf4ce08/XL/IMG_20180811_190643-XL.jpg)
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have you got this?
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No, was trying to find one of those, thanks for that.
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please don't take this lightly, and please don't take this as a condescending comment, I HIGHLY suggest you get a FSM, either from some download source on ebay, or a hard copy, before messing further and having to come back, and have us walk you thru these things... From what I am seeing, you have in hand, the pair of wires that invoke "onboard diagnostics".. don't plug anything into them, probe them, or mess with them further.. just let them lay as they are.
incorrectly messing with them may dispose and render prior error codes to disappear, and make for some other issues I will not go into now.
do a little 'searching' on ebay, and get a manual for your bike... read thru it, and follow the logic it has contained...
I can't link a source for a manual, as we do not do that here, and frown upon those that do try to do it.. it's all about copyrights, so I hope you understand...
do a search, and you can get what you need online, for cheap. all I can say about that.
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please don't take this lightly, and please don't take this as a condescending comment, I HIGHLY suggest you get a FSM, either from some download source on ebay, or a hard copy, before messing further
I would suggest that too, but also point out that *any* downloaded version of the Concours service manual is illegal, since Kawasaki doesn't license or sell anything but printed books through dealers. Really, considering the cost of the bike and parts and the value that the manual provides, it isn't unreasonable to just buy it from the dealer. I do this with every vehicle I have ever owned, almost immediately (ironically, some are ONLY available as PDF, which is fine).
I can't link a source for a manual, as we do not do that here, and frown upon those that do try to do it.. it's all about copyrights, so I hope you understand...
do a search, and you can get what you need online, for cheap. all I can say about that.
Or just buy it legally :)
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Those leads are not any "spooky" diagnostic connectors as some peoplemight try to lead you to believe. The leads you've shown are simply switched 12V and ground that are on the same circuit as the 12V accessory socket on the dash as you can see from the wiring diagram.
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/jwhance/C14/ink.png)
The diagnostic connectors, and there are two of them, are near there but not the same and it's highly unlikely you will do anything by messing with them since they only speak "KDS3". One is connected to the ECU (the black one) and the other connects to the ABS controller (the translucent one).
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Those leads are not any "spooky" diagnostic connectors as some peoplemight try to lead you to believe. The leads you've shown are simply switched 12V and ground that are on the same circuit as the 12V accessory socket on the dash as you can see from the wiring diagram.
I am pretty sure I used those to power my Admore lightbar :) It was very nice of Kawasaki to supply leads on the rear and the front... although they don't supply much power (5A if memory serves).
(P.S., trusting MY memory seems to be increasingly dangerous as time goes on, which is one reason I keep so many notes and logs.)
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I am pretty sure I used those to power my Admore lightbar :) It was very nice of Kawasaki to supply leads on the rear and the front... although they don't supply much power (5A if memory serves).
(P.S., trusting MY memory seems to be increasingly dangerous as time goes on, which is one reason I keep so many notes and logs.)
It's 10A actually. But keep in mind that those 10A are shared between the front accessory socket and these lines. Note also that these are switched, via a relay, so there will not be power at either point with the bike switched off.
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As others have said, those are accessory leads for your use. 4mm bullet connectors (or 5/32", same size in English units), 10 amp fused. The black / yellow wire is ground, the other hot of course. BTW: ALL black / yellow wires on the bike are ground.
Brian
I just picked up a 2010 C14. I'm un-doing the fender eliminator the P.O. did, and found these two wires that don't seem to belong anywhere. One is yellow/black, the other is black. It runs alongside the plate light.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Concours/i-r5HvPX7/0/ecf4ce08/XL/IMG_20180811_190643-XL.jpg)
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It's 10A actually. But keep in mind that those 10A are shared between the front accessory socket and these lines. Note also that these are switched, via a relay, so there will not be power at either point with the bike switched off.
Just for arguments sake I thought the gen 1 was 10 amp and the gen 2 changed to 5 amp.
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Just for arguments sake I thought the gen 1 was 10 amp and the gen 2 changed to 5 amp.
That is my memory, too... topic has come up several times. Of course, one COULD change the fuse, but there has to be some good reason they quickly changed it to 5A and kept it that way...
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Probably needed a quicker blowing fuse for those who didn't read the owners manual. ::)
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Probably needed a quicker blowing fuse for those who didn't read the owners manual. ::)
Or they used a smaller gauge wire.
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For what reason?
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For what reason?
It seems unlikely they would change the wiring and more likely they had some actual/known/proven/warranty problem with 10A causing failures. Perhaps a wire or connector or splice was just at the edge of being able to handle 10A total and so they just took the safe route and went down the next notch. Even though 10A might be safe 90% of the time and 9A would have been fine 99.9% of the time, fuses are typically only readily available in 5A denominations. All speculation on my part.
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If you look at a 2008-2009 wiring diagram (which is posted above) it shows 10A. If you look at a 2010+ diagram you do see it now rated at 5A. Why? A closer look at the wiring diagram appears to show that they shared some wiring between the AUX circuit and the 10A grip warmer circuit. So I suggest that rather than up the wire gauge to accommodate 20A or run a separate circuit for the grips warmers, they "split" the difference (sort of) and reduced the AUX circuit to 5A.
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There you go...makes sense.
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Winner, winner, chicken dinner!
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Why? A closer look at the wiring diagram appears to show that they shared some wiring between the AUX circuit and the 10A grip warmer circuit. So I suggest that rather than up the wire gauge to accommodate 20A or run a separate circuit for the grips warmers, they "split" the difference (sort of) and reduced the AUX circuit to 5A.
Good eye there. :thumbs:
It appears to be the ground circuit that is shared. Perhaps if one were to supply and independent ground wire from frame to grip warmer adjustment dial that the accessory fuse could be safely returned to 10 amp or 7.5 amp. Then again, it may have nothing to do with the shared ground wire and it could just be that the addition of the grips to the overall circuit under certain conditions (everything gets coincidentally turned on at once i.e. ABS pump, grip warmer, cooling fans, something hooked into acc circuit, etc.) would stress the overall capacity of the main 30 amp fuse and associated main power white wire.
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Those leads are not any "spooky" diagnostic connectors as some peoplemight try to lead you to believe. The leads you've shown are simply switched 12V and ground that are on the same circuit as the 12V accessory socket on the dash as you can see from the wiring diagram.
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/jwhance/C14/ink.png)
The diagnostic connectors, and there are two of them, are near there but not the same and it's highly unlikely you will do anything by messing with them since they only speak "KDS3". One is connected to the ECU (the black one) and the other connects to the ABS controller (the translucent one).
sorry for my 'panic mode' statement... I agree, those are (after looking closer) the Aux leads....
But the pair I did note, a Black/Yellow and a Gray lead, does live back near there, both leads are 'female' with insulated plug covers, and ARE used to manually invoke ABS error codes on Gen I models, by 'jumping' them with a wire or paperclip...
again, my bad for being hasty.
the wires I was thinking of are in the pic below.
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I would suggest that too, but also point out that *any* downloaded version of the Concours service manual is illegal, since Kawasaki doesn't license or sell anything but printed books through dealers. Really, considering the cost of the bike and parts and the value that the manual provides, it isn't unreasonable to just buy it from the dealer. I do this with every vehicle I have ever owned, almost immediately (ironically, some are ONLY available as PDF, which is fine).
Or just buy it legally :)
amen...